Canon EF-S 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 no larger than 4.5

Similar Questions

• Goal of compatibility with 5 d III - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

  I just bought a Canon 5 d III. I have a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 that does not fit, but do my other Canon lenses. Is this compatible with the 5 d III?

  The "S" suffix "EF-s" is for "short Back focus".  The lenses have their element more backward closer the sensor as the EF lenses.  This is because the EF-S lenses are designed to work with Canon bodies who have a small sensors (sized sensors APS - C - roughly the same size as a single image of the negative of a movie of size 'Advanced Photo System - Classic').

  Because these sensors are physically smaller, there is no need to have a goal that can project the same size image circle in the body of the camera that it is necessary for a camera with a 'full frame' sensor (a device to sensor full-frame has a sensor roughly the same size as a single image on 35mm film).  It is much larger.

  Given that the sensor is larger, the reflex mirror is also greater, and this means that the largest room needs a little more clearance when it makes its movement upward to take the picture.  This element the more backward on an EF-S lens would be too narrow... but also because the EF-S lens projects a small circle of image, you would have severe vignetting in the corners and sides of your picture.

  So to avoid the possibility of damage, as well as very bad images, Canon designs a little bit of a step on their full frame bodies which blocks lens lens EF-S of seats completely into the camera.  In short... Canon has designed the camera so you can't accidentally attach a lens which can be detrimental (and would not be able to fill the frame of sensor anyway.)

  You can use any lens "EF" and the lenses of specialty as the MP-E (goal of extreme macro photography) or objectives TS-E (tilt-shift).

  You can't use the lenses "EF-S" (abbreviated back-focus lenses designed for APS - C sensor bodies) or the "EF - M' (designed for the EOS - M mirrorless (aka"MILC"Interchangeable Lens mirrorless camera).

• Canon 18-200mm zoom lens

  I'm new here.  I have a Canon T3i.  Two kit lenses came with it in a bundle... 18-55mm, 55-250mm.  I am considering getting the Canon 18-200mm.  Would be the Canon 18-200mm is a good choice to replace the two lenses, or are there better choices to replace them with and keep the 18-200mm too?

  I wouldn't buy one for several reasons.  The one above all, it is more difficult to zoom, when the zoom range becomes very extreme.  18-200 is a 11 x scope and very ambitious to say the least. Not only in mind but in build quality, too. It will be in the same level of quality that the two glasses, the only advantage is to have just a lens so you.  Is that what you need? The superior advantage of a digital SLR is the possibility of having the right lens for the good work.  This implies usually several different lenses.  So you will be defeated this concept a little!

  I'd rather see you get a different level of lens for example IS the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 USM Lens.  Directly by replacing your 18-55mm kit lens. Of course, it is in the case where you have does not work for you. But this approach is better built, better optics and a little more quickly the objective that can be very useful.  Don't get me wrong the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens is a very good lens and offers a constant aperture.  A great plus in my book.

  Unfortunately these lens upgrades are expensive and replacing the 55-250mm is going to be even more.

• Settings for Canon Rebel XT

  I have a Canon Rebel XT with a Canon EF - 5 18-55mm lens, and I need help on how to configure the camera for taking quality photos of small objects for resale on the internet.  I have a light box and 2 lights tungston, but I'm having a hard time getting a clear image with a white background.  Right now I'm taking pictures of pens to ball. Any help would be really appreciated.  Thank you

  If you're having trouble getting sharp images, you might have problems DOF or depth of field, which describes the distance range of the camera subjects are made the point clear.  Take photos of 'products', such as pens, begins to cross the line in macro photography, which is the art of photographing the very small.

  http://digital-photography-school.com/top-5-tips-on-how-to-photograph-food/

  http://digital-photography-school.com/macro-photography-for-beginners-part-1/

  Remember, smaller apertures will give you a greater DOF, but may require more light.  You will get sharper photos with the lowest ISO setting, which may also require more light.  Finally, it's good to take a long exposure of stationary objects.  Your camera must be able to do it for you in Av mode, constant aperture, with ISO set to 100.

• Canon 24-70 mm 2.8 l ii is a profitable investment for 70 d

  70 D

  The high-end version of a standard zoom with low ratio f / d to D 70 is the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8.  It's basically the same focal range than the typical kit (18-55) lens, but it can provide a report f / d f/2.8 at all focal lengths, rather than vary the report f / d as the kit lenses tend to do.

• A DVD of printing on Canon Pixma Pro-100

  I try to print an image on a DVD using the above referenced printer. Lightroom and Photoshop Elements keep send me error messages that the inner cover is open. Of course, it is open: you must insert the drawer of the DVD to print! I also tried Canon Easy-PhotoPrint EX and my garden of Image. Both apps work fine and don't trigger the printer error message except that the image is larger that the DVD any image of the size that I use. My latest attempt involves a picture that was 2.5 x 1.75 "according to the standard 12cm (4.72") DVD, but the printed image much larger than the DVD.
  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  Hi Ken_k,

  It is recommended that you contact the direct technical assistance. There is NO charge for this call. Information in real-time to a technical assistance call live would be very beneficial in this case.

  Please call 1-866-261-9362, Monday - Friday 10:00-10: 00 ET (excluding holidays). A Canon technical support representative will be able to solve this problem more quickly.

• Canon EOS Rebel DSLR t5 Record Time

  I found several sites Web says that the device must record up to 30 minutes of video footage before cutting. I also found that it depends on the memory card.

  In my camera, I have a 32 GB card, but my camera record of 11-12 minutes (time weird I know, but I have timed to make sure that... He usually cuts around 11.54 or 11.58). I was wondering if there was a way for me to get my camera to record the appropriate amount of time. The memory card is empty, no photos or videos.

  Any help is appritiated.

  Oh... is also questionable. Does anyone know if this particular model can autofocus WHILE shooting video (hold something up to the camera and the lens focuses on this point, then when you delete the item it focuses on you), and is there a way to make the background of blurry video, once more, during the filming?

  Thank you once again.  

  A single video clip would be limited by three things:

  (1) the card is formatted with FAT32 file system so that it can be widely read by any PC, Mac, Linux, computer etc.  But this file system has a size limit of 4 GB.  No single file cannot be larger than that.  You would stop and start a new recording so that it records to a second file.

  (2) if the card is 4 GB of free space on it... It stops as soon as possible (of course).

  (3) even if you set a very low video resolution so that she will not fill 4 GB in 30 minutes, it stops always at 30 minutes.  This is because in some countries, 'video' cameras are charged at a different rate from that of the photographic cameras.  By an international treaty, cameras are allowed to record video clips... and will not be tariffed as of the cameras 'video' as long as these clips may not exceed 30 minutes.  It is the purpose of the CAP of 30 minutes.

  Autofocus:

  Regarding the autofocus during video... the 70 D (and I think that now the 7 d II) have special technology on the sensor that allows the continuous autofocus while shooting video.  This feature is available in some Canon models that have "Dual Pixel CMOS AF".

  For other cameras, the sensor must use a different method of focus and it's some "guess".  It's "contrast AF detection.  Imagine taking a picture of a code bar... white background with strong black stripes.  In theory, so focused with precision, each pixel should be 'black' or 'white '.  And on the edge of a stripe, you should have a 'black' pixel adjacent to a 'white' pixel (this is a difference of extremely high contrast between adjacent pixels).  Now imagine you deliberately focus the camera.   You now have a pixel 'black', followed by several pixels that are progressively more light and lighter shades of gray... until you arrive finally at the pixel 'white '.  It's a "low contrast" difference between adjacent pixels, and it is low because the image is blurry.

  This means that if you can maximize the difference in contrast between adjacent pixels in some areas of the framework, you nailed focus.

  The "problem" with this system, it's that if it's blurred, he has no idea what to do to improve the development.  He can try mobile focus outward, re - sample the image and see if things improved.  Otherwise, it can run the focus inward and try again.  Once it is on the direction in which is better, it can start then refine the focus until he nails finally update the point.   But this system causes what is called "hunting at home" where you see visually the camera tries to focus while you record video - not good.

  Pro videographers determine before their major focus.  For example if they want to go to the theme 1 theme 2 in a scene, imagine putting a piece of tape around the ring with a felt market and development to mark the position of development for question 1 and another brand for about 2.  When THEY move the focus, they go directly between positions and no one watches the video sees everything "hunt."

  To avoid the 'hunting', the camera does not have auto-focus during video recording continuously.  You can press the button in focus on the back (it's usually the asterisk (*) key but I do not have a T5) and this will require the camera to auto-focus at this time (but you'll see this.)

  If you need real continuous AF during video then you would like to use a real camcorder OR you want a model that supports the feature as D 70.

  Do blurred backgrounds:

  This is determined by the "depth of field" which is derived from a combination of (1) the focal length of the lens, (2) the current aperture setting, (3) the distance between the subject and (4) the physical size of the sensor of the camera.

  (1) the longer focal length will reduce the total depth of the field.  For example, a 200mm lens will have a depth of field than a 20mm lens.  This means that longer lenses can generate a greater amount of background blur as wide lenses (and do not generate very large lenses almost no blur either.)

  (2) using the values low f-stop (the aperture value) creates a narrow depth of field.  f stops such as f/2.8, f/2, f/1.4 work well... high f-stops as f/11, f/16, f/22 generate very large depth of field, which means that they do not have much that would be blurry or off discussion.

  (3) the depth of field is naturally broader if the distance between the subject is far away.  Close subjects get very shallow depth of field.  In other words, if you focus on a subject that is actually very close... While the background is very far away, "narrow" depth of field on your narrow topic will mean that the background is well outside the update and will be very blurred.

  (4) finally (and this isn't anything you can change), the size of the sensor of the effects on the technical level also the depth of field.  Have your camera, a sensor of APS - C size, is big enough and will have no problem producing the blur you want... given the right report low-f / d and long focal length.  Only, I mention this because the smaller sensors (for example those on point & shoot cameras or camera-phones) must have their crop factor multiplied by the ratio f / d to determine a ratio f / d effective.  When she the crop factor is huge (very small sensors), this means that, even with a 'real' focal extremely low, the report f / d 'effective' is so high that the camera cannot generate the background blur.  Don't worry-I only speak because one of the reasons people like the look of DSLR images is due to this background blur this point & devices and phones cannot generate and that they are unable to generate the effect is because their sensors are too small.

  When you put all this together, you want to:

  (a) a long focal length (e.g. 85mm... ... of 100 mm or greater) with (b) a low f-ratio / d (for example f/2.8 or less... a telephoto lens like a 55-250 mm f/3.5-5.6 reached f/5.6 as this is the lowest possible report f / d when it is simply of to halfway across the range.)  f/5.6 is very low so you won't get a background blur hard.)  And (c) you'd want your subject to be located close to the camera and you would be wan further background.  You do not see what effect (or certainly not a lot of it) If you put your right subject against a background such as a brick wall... Pull the topics forward and in the background.

  The "quality" of the blur (not only the force) is described as its "bokeh".  Some lenses produce a quality much more beautiful than the others.  Multiple aperture blades is an important factor, as well as the way "rounded up" the aperture of the lens is due to the shape of the blades.  But the final appearance so influence other optical qualities.  Usually more expensive than glass... more look.

• Automatic Analyzer cannot analyze generated from images of Canon EOS600d RAW JPG

  I recently turned to the digital SLR Canon EOS 600 d. I used to monitor itself my photos in elements, but somehow PES 9 refuses to do on my new images. PSE shows me the message "autoanalyzer jumped one or more files because of the potential error". I can view/edit images without any problems.

  I generated the JPG images using the latest version of Adobe Bridge and the latest version of Canon's RAW codec.

  No idea what could be the problem?

  You can check the dimensions of your images? because the automatic Analyzer ignores the more pictures of 4000 x 4000. If images of your camera Canon a dimension larger than this, then I think that auto Analyzer will not analyze them.

• 24mm 1.4 vs 35mm 1.4 CROP

  Hello!

  So I need some advice between the 24mm 1.4 and the 35mm 1.4. I have a Canon 70 d (1.6 harvest) and a 50 mm 1.8. I love my nifty fifty, however, I always find take me a step back. I would like to get a wider lens who still has the capabilities of portrait (and may also be used as a walk around). I know that the 35mm is THE portrait of wide angle for full frame, but what about to harvest? It will be too long to consider even wide? Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

  ebiggs1 wrote:

  B B,

  «.. . but remember: a 55mm lens on a crop-frame device acts as a 65mm on a FF lens,... »

  Sarah,

  Forget it, it will be even closer to a goal of 88mm on a FF camera.

  In addition, that it is true that the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens is by far the best choice for you. Don't forget that there all focal lengths you are considering.

  Yes, I meant 85, not 65. (Specifically 88 on a cannon, but the version of the crop factor of Canon is slightly higher than the standard of APS - C.) That's what I get for posting in the wee hours of the morning after staying up to watch the Cubs end their curse.

• Need to zoom lens

  I have a Canon Rebel t3i & I was wondering what would be the best lens to buy for the zoom. Any help will be greatly apperciated! TIA

  You did not get the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens of STM with your T3i?  Yes, you have a zoom. So, do you want a telephoto lens to add?  It is always best to keep your equipment even if a good choice would be the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5. 6 objective IS of STM.  It fits very well.

• Will be 5 d Mark III and T5, T5i and T6i rebel use the same lenses

  I have the 5 d Mark III and some big L series lenses. I'll buy a rebel for my GF to learn photography. My lenses will work for her T5, T5i or T6i?

  Thank you!

  Yes - but it doesn't work the other way around.

  Canon EOS "EF" series lenses (including all your 'L' series lenses) will work on ANY body camera Canon EOS Digital or analogue, and regardless of whether a digital camera has a sensor size full frame (like the 5 d which has a sensor the same size as a 35 mm film negative) or a crop-frame camera (as the series body rebels who use the size of the) sensor 'APS - C' which is a bit smaller.)

  But suppose you get your GF body rebel... it'll come with a "kit" lens (usually this kit lens is the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II or EF - S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM).  But that goal is an EF-S lens.  The image that projects of the lens in the camera body is large enough to fill the surface of the sensor to a corner to for an APS - C sensor... but it is NOT an image large enough to cover the size of a sensor full-frame corner.  Advantage of the EF-S-objectives, is that they can produce a high quality image that does not need more large than an EF lens, and because of this, they are able to reduce the manufacturing cost of the lens and THIS means that the lens can be offered at a lower price than the somewhat similar focal ranges EF lenses.

  These objectives EF-S can be used on any digital camera Canon EOS which has a sensor size 'APS - C' (any body of the rebel, also all the 20 d with 70 d series), as well as the 7 d bodies but may not be used on any body of the camera which uses a larger sensor (any body standard standard 6 d or 1 d 5 d requires "EF" lenses).

  Specialty lenses like the tilt-shift (TS-E) and the extreme (MP-E) macrophoto lens can be used on any EOS body (just like the objectives EF.)

• the goal even after repair

  I recently bought a refurbished rebel t5 with the kit lens 18-55mm, as well as the 10-18 mm IS and 55-250 IS lens. Everything has been fine with all my equipment except for the 18-55 mm lens. When the rotation of the lens to zoom in or out, there was a notieable rubbing or grinding noise and there were a few sticking points where the goal was not spin smoothly. I took in a Canon customer service center and they we sent for repair. I am the home goal today and everything is exactly the same thing when I sent it. Same grinding noise, even the sticking points. The service details, bak I say "your product has been examinded and it was found that the party was out of position, causing noises occur. The part of the description says "Focusing ASSY YG2-2353-000 part number".

  I have also two older lenses that I had with the original Canon EOS rebel, I have a 18-55 and 75-300. So none of my other 4 lenses have this problem, but I don't know how many questions it's really. This could potentially damage the lens over time? Or is that what I should really worry? It isn't really the effect on my shot, but I don't want to be slowly causing damage every time that I have to zoom in or out. Since he was sent back to me like that after repair, should I just assume that it is not a big deal, because the repair obiously Center don't think it was if they sent back like that?

  Thanks for any comments,

  Matt

  Matt,

  I don't have this particular goal, but I've been involved with a lot of people what to do. «It is not really effect my shooting,...» ", seems to be like that.  The lens can jump gear fairly easily. You can reset it by deleting and expanding the focus and zoom all the way, both ways.  You can hear a few clicks.  Be gentle.  It's really not a good candidate for the repair, if it is under warranty.

  Using it, he can't last forever or not. If not, buy the new improved version. The Canon EF - S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens STM or elsewhere, far, the best choice for Canon EF - S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens.

• Given to nine EFS 17-55 2.8 USM

  I've recently updated my old kit lens (18-55) for my RebelXS with a refurbshed EFS 17-55 2.8 USM and were a little disappointed that my nature photos have not been that much greater. Any ideas or advice out there? Is there an apeture setting which is best for sharpness with this lens?

  Thank you

  Do you have mounted your new lens with a filter of "protection"? If so, remove it. I saw filters get dirty with focus and sharpness.

  You have the lens hood? Otherwise get it and use it instead of the filter. It provides protection for the right lens and can even help with emphasis in keeping some oblique light-off the lens.

  Most lenses have stop down a bit. Ideally, a f2.8 lens may be the best at f4, although it is likely still enough 'usable' expansion Xtreme. Even stopped down to f4 to all its focal length is always a little better that your old kit lens, where closing window would place f5 at one end of the zoom range and f8 to another.

  I agree with the previous answer, too... be careful not to use too small an opening. Beyond F8 diffraction will start to steal the image of small details. At f11 it's probably little that they aren't a problem, but I do that on my limit on a device to sensor harvest like yours. Avoid the f16 and f22.

  The 17-55 also has IS, which may or may not have your 18 - 55. IS can help a lot with sharpness, especially at slower shutter speeds. I would use it all the time when shooting handheld or on a monopod... even on a tripod "loose." However, if locked securely on a tripod, it may be necessary to manually turn off IS at the level of the switch. I am not sure of the 17-55, but on some lenses with stabilizer, when there is absolutely no movement that IS can go into the sort of a feedback loop that actually causes a movement! That may resemble low sharpness. So if you use the lens firmly locked on a tripod, try to disable the IS.

  Another advantage of the upgrade, the 17-55mm USM focus which is significantly better than the micro motor in your kit lens. It might not be too visible in good light, but in more difficult situations I bet you will find the updated faster lens to the point, as well as more uniform and precise... more silent, too.

  There's a chance that what you bought is not to spec for some reason, he might even have gotten damaged in transport. I suggest that you go shoot a lot with her and see if you can not get good results. You can do a few carefully controlled tests with the camera and lens on a tripod and to shoot a detailed subject as a wall or a fence damaged. If after a few additional tests and shooting you still think that the lens may be defective, talk to Canon to check or make an exchange for you.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• LR 5.2 develop preset Lens profile chooses the wrong goal

  The library module metadata shows the lens actually used. Develop module preset chooses the right manufacturer (Canon) but the wrong lens. How the pre-selection to choose glasses actually used for each image when imported?

  Example: Canon EF-s 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens used to take the picture. Canon EF 75-300mm f4-5. 6 USM appllied during import. The imported pictures include those with the 18-55mm, 75-300mm, and the 10-22mm lens.

  Technology Adobe you have preferences file reset LR? A corrupted preference files LR is often the source of problems "unexplained."

  elete-the-lightroom-preferences-file http://members.lightroomqueen.com/index.php/Knowledgebase/article/view/1148/198/how-do-i-d

  You can rename the current file with the extension .old (Lightroom 5 Preferences.agprefs.old), rather than delete it. In this way, you can delete the new preferences file and rename the old file if the issue is not resolved.

• Upgrade T1i or continue?

  I own a Canon T1i and really like it. A month ago, I bought a lens wide angle.  The seller told me that the lens doesn't work, but because the camera was old, I'd get all the features.  So I wonder if I should buy a new camera instead of investing more in the old technology.  If the recommendation is to buy, suggestions as to which model?  I'm not a professional, but he loves photography.  A friend recommended the Canon 6 d but the price is pretty steep.

  Hi Edith,.

  The 17-40 would not significantly wider than the 18-55 kit lens (17 vs. 18 isn't very different) The IQ would be better, as the quality of construction, but he would not broaden your view considerably.

  If you do not want a lens wide angle for your crop sensor camera, you should look something like the Canon EF-s 10-22 lens for around $700, either the Sigma 10-20mm for about $480.

  You can look at Craigslist and find those used for 25% off if you are willing to wait to come available in your area.

  Sort of lenses used on Ebay always seem to sell at prices almost brand new.

  Also a good place to look is the renovated store of Canon (Canon direct).  Their refurb lenses are as good or better than the new, and if catch them you in the course of a refund, they're a good discount.  See below.

  http://shop.USA.Canon.com/webapp/WCS/stores/servlet/subCategorySort_10051_10051_-1_22751_highPrice_l...

  (They don't have the 10-22 opportunities in stock now).

  Good luck!