Canon 18-200mm zoom lens

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• Canon Zoom lens

  Hello world

  wish you all agreat day,

  After the Suggestions in this forum for my camera so my first goal... Thanks guys I bougth the Canon 6 d and bought the Canon 17-40 photos of couple in my first Attcched lens...

  Now I'm looking for a zoom lens, any suggestions? with good quality / mony? Honestly I do not put a budget for it still don't intend to but something so dear, my favorate style is architecture & urban landscape, but some times I may need a zoom so out for some shots my need more than what I have now (canon 17-40).

  Thanks for the passage & thank you for the support.

  Concerning

  

  But what would you use for?  That tells you what focal length to get.

  You already have the range of 17 to 40 covered. Which can be used for your walk around lens that it stops a little short for this to 40 mm. I use a 35mm Prime than my walk around and I Zoom with my feet so I think you can also.

  For a standard telephoto lens that is the EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS Mk 2.  In the United States, he sells between $1 800.00 and $300.00 2.  It's a fantastic lens. Sharp. Many colors. Ideal in low light. Great bokeh. And the focal range is very usable on a full camera frame. Not often is too long to be useful.

  If you need a longer telephoto let us know and people can suggest lenses longer but the good ones cost dear and you can also lose the opening f/2.8 nice if you get a telephoto lens more long. Unless you really spend a lot on a 300 mm f/2.8 or 400 mm.

• Canon EF 70-210mm F/4.0 Macro Zoom Lens

  A Canon EF 70-210mm lens Zoom Macro F/4.0 is already used on a Canon EOS 630 is usable on modern SLRS like the Canon 6 d?

  should work the same, BUT it is perhaps not as optically perfect like new lenses. With film, you were not able to expand your negatives in the same way you can with a digital file using your monitor to display 100%. Some like to do that but in the real world, when you print that big with excellent results.

• The zoom lens compatibility

  I have an EOS REBEL G and want to know if a vivitar 75-205 macro zoom lens 22005946 No. is going to work on it.

  If you are looking at a manual focus zoom Vivitar 75-205mm F3. 8 - f4.8... This was done for the old Canon FD lens mount used on FTb, AE-1, a-1, F-1, etc. of the cameras... Serial number #22xxxxxxx you mention strongly suggests he is a FD lens, made by Kiron for Vivitar. If this is the case, it's probably a very nice lens, but...

  No, which cannot be used on any EOS camera (film or digital). These all use the modern EF mount.

  I did a search and did not find any Vivitar 75-205mm in the modern mount. So I think that what you're watching is the old FD mount and the answer is 'no' (this is probably why it's so cheap).

  EDIT: there is a 75-300mm lens Canon EF that sells expensive and will work on a g of rebels. It is not the best lens optically or for general performance, but it is one of the lowest cost since this seems to be your biggest concern. This can be purchased for as little as $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-III-Telephoto-Packaging/dp/B00GEE8I1Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=13910997...). You might be able to find it for less used.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• CS4 - magnify or tool of the Zoom lens?

  I need to create a "magnifying glass effect" on a part of a drawing. I found a tutorial explaining a tool in CorelDraw (lens magnify) which does exactly what I need to do. However, I was not able to find this tool/effect AI CS4.

  Can someone tell me if such a tool exists in CS4? If it is not a tool specifically designed for this, are there free or inexpensive plugins that can do? In the absence of such, tutorials or tips on how to do it?

  Thank you!!

  Sean

  Wow, I'm not so sure that I want to tell you how I could do that in Illustrator considering how the Mag in Corel Draw tool is cool.

  But here we are. Copy the layer any of the art (Option drag the layer to the layer icon Add in the layers panel) draw a circle in the place that you want to zoom, make sure that the circle is the first element more in the new layer. Click the icon at the bottom of the layers panel clipping mask. This should hide all on this layer except for the items in the circle you drew. Select now all on this layer by clicking on the ball of meat for that layer in the layers panel (the point on the right side of the layer in the layers panel) this should select all the elements on this layer. Now use the effects > distort and Transform > Transform to compensate for the circle of mag where you want.

  There is no tool like Corel Draw zoom lens or magnifying glass. However, would be an interesting feature request.

• Canon 70-200mm F4 L USM replacement

  I have a 70-200mm F4 L USM Canon's, he started to act erratic plastic clicking noise, random automatic manual focus. I took the plate on the side of the lens of the camera, the AF/MF focus switch and switches have come off, I can't get back them on even though they work. I'll attach a picture to show what I mean. Help, please

  «.. . Please help. "

  OK, call the Canon Service.

• Need to zoom lens

  I have a Canon Rebel t3i & I was wondering what would be the best lens to buy for the zoom. Any help will be greatly apperciated! TIA

  You did not get the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens of STM with your T3i?  Yes, you have a zoom. So, do you want a telephoto lens to add?  It is always best to keep your equipment even if a good choice would be the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5. 6 objective IS of STM.  It fits very well.

• I need help with a purchase of Canon EF/EF-S lens...

  Hi all...

  I don't know where else to post this question since this isn't really a photography forum but rather a forum Lr4.  But I'm still very new to DSLRs and need help.

  I currently have a Canon T3 w / 18-55 Kit lens.  I would like to take pictures of landscapes, mountains and waterfalls, etc...  At the same time I need the ability to take pictures up or about 6 "of objects.  All the different numbers on lenses are confused the heck out of me and I was wondering if there was any advice - could someone give me a good Canon lens or two that will get me where I want to be.  I want to take close-ups and shots of distant/large.  Lenses certainly are not cheap, so I want to make the right decision.

  I recently bought a book by David Busch on the T3 and its capabilities, but I still have a way to go before finishing the book.

  Can anyone offer some advice or an overview of the importance of using the right lens or even a recommendation of a Canon lens?

  Thank you!

  To see 'detail' of small objects like flowers, you have to shoot a lot closer (less than inches) for higher magnification. I have the same 18-55mm IS lens kit you have and checked the maximum possible magnification, which is with the longest value of 55mm zoom. I was able to focus down to a 1.5 "x 2.25" image size, which is about .63x magnification for full frame 35 mm 24 x 36 mm (95 "x 1.4"). Canon EF 50mm F2.5 on your T3 a one.5 x 1.6 = magnification of .8x, so you are pretty close to this already with the ability of the 18-55 mm. The main difference is that the EF 50 mm macro lens is designed to achieve a superior at close distances sharpness and produce images of superior quality of small objects like flowers. That said, that you can be very happy with the results of your 18-55mm, once you get the hang of using it for macro work.

  Regardless of the lens used the biggest difficulty with macro photography is framing, focus on your subject and keeping the camera "yet". Even slight movement will cause the focus to distances of these relatives, because of the very shallow depth of field (i.e. terms of sharpness). Here are a few things you can do that will help:

  (1) a tripod to help you compose the object in your picture.

  (2) set the mode "Av" and F stop of at least 8. You can go as high as F16 to increase depth of field. This will cause the camera to use a very slow shutter speed, which also requires the use of a tripod. In a pinch, you can use your Canon T3 up to ISO 3200 with some post processing in Lightroom noise reduction to shoot 'at hand '.  Use nag screen image from the camera to the full magnification setting to check the sharpness ' in the field '.

  (3) set your lens to manual focus (M) and use the ' Live view ' on your T3 with the x 10 magnification setting (read the manual of your T3).

  (4) focus on the Central "area of interest." You can use "Depth of field Preview button" of your T3 to get an idea of what is inside the "depth of field".

  And remember that Lightroom can do wonders on cleaning and improvement 'less than pefect' images to give them a stellar appearance! Happy shooting and LRing!

• Zoom lens combination as an alternative to the 18-55mm and 55-250mm lens for my T3i?

  I have a T3i with 18-55mm and 55-250mm objectives.  Switching lenses visits is a nuisance.  The shorter one is required for pictures close to the museums, galleries, blocked sites, ourselves and our friends, etc.  Longer lenses are useful for many city outdoor and rural/mountain shots.  Is there a combination priced zoom that I should consider?  Y at - it somewhere that I can sell my current lenses.  My T3i and lenses are less than a year.  Thank you.

  There are a lot of options out there for "superzooms" If that's what you're looking for.  This is a decent article on them, and to explain some of the advantages and disadvantages:

  http://www.TechRadar.com/us/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/best-superzoom-for-Canon-DSLRs-8-...

  I see a lot of recommendations for http://www.fredmiranda.com/ to buy and sell used.  But I know you are going to get much for those kit lenses.  Can be difficult to find a buyer, but you never know.

• Nikon 200-500 f5.6 zoom lens correction

  Hello

  I got a Nikon 200-500 f5.6 zoom come and found it there is no lens correction in Lightroom 5, is there an update for it

  Hi ferrarinan

  This lens is supported in Lightroom version 6/CC.

  Refer to working with profiles of lenses in Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop, Lightroom

  

  Concerning

  Assani

• Could not find target for Canon profile 10-18mm lens.

  Hi, I have LR CC. When I click Activate profile correction LR is not able to find the profile for Canon 10-18mm. Selects the Canon 10-22mm instead. I was going on the lens profile support list and it is said that 10-18mm is supported to LR 5.6V. Then why can't I see in my LR? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  [Left the forum Cloud/Installer generic for program specific forum... MOD]

  Hello kar,

  Please follow the below thread related to the same issue.

  Why can I not see my camera calibration profiles

  Default locations of Lightroom 5

  It will be useful,

  ~ Mohit

• Canon G16 push the lens cap

  Tragically, the shutter of lens on my G16 protectors are made to (following an incident of melting candy car).  Do not really want to spend $400 replacing everything and I was wondering if someone had never followed pressure on the lens for their camera Cap?  These components are not really worth; Oddly delicate for what is otherwise such a sturdy camera body...

  Thank you

  Dan

  B & H Photo so that Amazon has push the lens cap that goes to the more than 100 mm that adapts to it. You just need to know or measure the outside diameter with the lens when retracted retracted my guess is 58mm through the accessories listed for her.

• Impossible to find profiles of lens for Canon 35-80mm and 80-200mm (3.6 Lightroom)

  Hello

  
  

  This may seem like a piece of cake to most of you, but I am fairly new to photography, especially things like the optical correction, etc.

  I use Lightroom 3.6 and there is no profile target for these 2 objectives:

  Canon 35-80mm

  Canon 80-200mm

  Anyone know what to do in this case? Do I need to create them somehow (if so - how?) or can I download them (if so - where)?

  Thank you in advance for your help!

  Kind regards

  A.
  

  Profiles for these lenses have been added in later versions. But I don't know because I don't keep track of all the profiles that are added. If you Google Adobe Lens profile Downloader, you will find link to a program provided by Adobe. It will connect you to a Web site where other people have created profiles and are sharing them with others. The Downloader will download and install all of the profiles that you choose.

• Is there a digital zoom on the Canon Rebel T5?

  I realize it has optical zoom turning the lens on my Canon Rebel T5, but I like the digital zoom shots as well. My older Powershot a digital and optical zoom shooting. I expected the rebel T5 having two institutions. I have to be able to zoom more than the 55 mm provides? Recommendations for a better zoom lens? Digital zoom is on this other than cropping model after?

  No on both lenses. But sells Canon, a 18-200mm lens, and you can get third 18-270mm lens that will give you this range of zoom with unique to the camera lens.

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY