Canon HF-R400 in cold weather

Similar Questions

• Life of the battery in cold weather

  Hello, today I had the opportunity to work outside for about an hour in New York, where the temperature was below zero, later in the day, I noticed that the battery level was at 20%, normally for me with my moderate 9 hours in the day use I to 60-70% left, so the question is cold weather can degrade the battery times this much? Thanks in advance and happy holidays!

  When the batteries are cold, they will accept a deep load (read cooler). At the same time, they will accept the charge at a slower pace. When the batteries are warm, they will more quickly but accept lower fees. Ideally, the battery should be cooler and charge any longer. Cool, not cold.

  Smart Chargers manage the current going on expensive Chargers and batteries and very effective, the battery temperature is monitored and the charge rate and current goes into the battery is managed for optimal performance. It is not that much inteliigence in this small charger for the Droid.  Look at the charger for a very large capacity batteries used in the industry and you would be amazed to see how they work and manage the charge cycle.

  You could go crazy trying to manage the load on the Droid but just follow a few simple rules and you will get the best performance:

  Whenever you are near a charger, charge it.

  Do not move the battery completely down. If so, recharge as soon as possible. If it is only a minimal cost after that, you probably need a new battery, you won't be able to 'condition' it. It is a myth.

  Don't let a flat battery in the droid for awhile.

  Don't let the battery really cold or hot. I want to talk about the extremes. If you are comfortable, so is the Droid and its battery.

  Break the battery with a hammer = risk your life. No joke. Same thing with ardour. Warning labels are for real.

  When you buy a new battery, no matter what anyone tells you, load first. After that, wait less performance optimal for a week or two.

  For what makes the Droid, they put a very low capacity of the battery in it. It has less capacity than many other smartphones.

• My Ipod has recently stopped sync correctly after being left aside in very cold weather.

  I gave him one night when he was around 0 degrees. No, he won't have to synchronize correctly. He will start to synchronize and eventually tell me that he could not synchronize because the disk is not available, and it makes temporarily Itunes does not. It reads:

  Retracts: 5

  Reallocation: 16024

  Sectors pending: 352

  Temp: Min 53 c

  Temp: Max 246

  I tried all sorts of things including trying to let windows to solve this problem, go back to the factory specifications, uninstall and reinstall Itunes, updated drivers, restart the computer, reset Ipod and change the USB port. I can't afford a new now, but I feel that I don't have a choice... any help would be much appreciated.

  He is quite happy that the LCD screen have not cracked.    The 'L' stands for liquid.  If you have ever tried to do a restore, iPod hard drive is likely to be damaged.  If the iPod doesn't work otherwise, you can consider replacing the hard disk of the iPod with a Compact Flash card or SD card on an adapter.  If your iPod "classic" is the 5th generation or later, this website has interesting information

  https://www.iFlash.xyz/

• iPhone battery 6 dies in the cold

  Battery died on my iPhone 6 cold weather. Phone is about 15 months and died of battery in good condition 50% to 30% down to nothing and automatic switch off. THE normal time the battery is still very good and doesn't show signs of weakening on any normal day. But if it is cold outside, the phone will dye in minutes if used outdoors. I first noticed it when we went skiing about - 5 c (20 - 25F) and this is really bad. But now he has started to do it when he is around + 5 c (41F) stop the phone battery by 30%. When I plug it in, it immediately return comes on the phone and shows 25 or 35% remaining...

  Anyone? Design problem? Application to kill? Running iOS 9.3, but he was already doing it on iOS 9.2... Thank you

  Cold temperatures harm batteries. I don't know what are the exact specifications for the temperature range of 6s and I leave it to you to find some online.  It wouldn't surprise me if he couldn't take the temperature in the range you mention.  You could take the phone to an Apple authorized service for evaluating provider where you got a defective battery.  At the same time keep the phone in a pocket inside.

• Best upgrade

  I bought a Canon EOS Rebel XTi camera in a package deal a few years back that came with an EFS 18-55mm and EF 75-300 zoom. It was a good setup for me, but what would be the best thing that I could buy to make it better? Something or a combination of things under a cople of hundred dollars. I am a novice.

  "Hundreds of dollars" will not go very far, I fear.

  1 LENS.

  The first thing I would suggest that you consider, especially for landscape photography, is a lens wide angle... But most cost $500 or more. Among these, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM is one of the best... but it's also more than you say you want to spend.

  A new and lower price alternative is the new EF-S 10-18mm IS STM Canon has just announced. I haven't used (few people have) because it is not in stock, any where, again... and can be a little difficult to find a little time. This lens seems to be reasonably compact (67 mm filter uses) and will be sold for about $300. Also, the sun visor sold separately (EW - 73) is not quite yet available, but seems to be priced below $ 30. Not sure that I need IS on a lens with short focal lengths... but, Hey, it never hurts to have! STM focus drive must be good, too. Now, none of us have had the chance to use this lens, but taking the cannon in the word with what they say about this, must be very nice.

  Other things that may be in your budget "hundreds of dollars"...

  2 TRIPOD

  If you do not already have one, I would say a good tripod.  But, be careful. Don't go too cheap, too compact nor too light with this, or you will not find the use or by replacing enough fast. One who seems a very good deal for me is the Adorama Flashpoint F1228 kit for about $220 including delivery. It is a clone of tripod Gitzo 'Series 2' journalist, with a fairly standard carbon fiber, but decent looking ball head with quick release. (I use several real Gitzo, which are excellent, but much more expensive, but I also use a lot of heavier cameras and lenses that you).

  I have also heard good things about Dolica tripods, but have no real experience with them. They offer several models of carbon fiber, which is what I would recommend. There are a few other quite affordable brands, but also some that are much more expensive. Just be careful, check out them in person if possible, and try to avoid too light, fragile, and poorly made.

  Purchased on the right, a tripod can be a single purchase. A carbon fiber tripod is a little more expensive, but it is lighter than the tripod in aluminium of the same capacity. In addition, carbon fiber absorbs vibrations small, where the 'rings' metal and reverberates. In addition, the CF is a little nicer to handle hot and cold weather.

  A tripod is a number of things for you and a lot of landscape photographers wouldn't think of shooting without having a. Of course, a tripod stabilizes your shot and allows you to make longer than computer possible exposures of pocket. Another thing that makes tripod is to force you to slow down and examine more carefully the are you will take. This usually results in much nicer pictures. Someone once said do arrows multiple panoramas and a tripod will help well do, too.

  3 LENS HOODS

  If you don't already have them, download the lens hood for your lenses. I believe that the 18-55mm uses a hood EW - 63C and 75-300 uses a hood AND-60. Just get into the habit of using lens hoods. They protect your lenses from the oblique light and physical shocks. I see people shot without condoms all the time... and that makes no sense at all to me. A lens hood is a simple, fast & easy to use and inexpensive accessory that can only help your images. I rarely shoot without having a.

  4 FILTERS

  And, if you don't already have some, a filter or two can be really useful. First of all, I would recommend a circular polarizer of quality. I think that your 18-55mm lens uses 58 mm filters (double check that) and I would say one to fit this lens first, since it is probably the lens you will use for landscape photography. A C - Pol filter will deepen the blue of the sky and make the white clouds "pop." It also intensifies colors by reflections of the cup of the foliage and other surfaces. You can use this control reflections on water and other surfaces, too. It is one of the more widely useful filters, as well as one of the most impossible to reproduce with digital software. I recommend B + W MRC XS - Pro and Kaesemann. Hoya HD, HD2, HMC a SHMC. and Marumi DHG. Among others. You do not want a C - POL on your lens all that time... he cuts one or two stops of light. But you will find it useful several times, once you learn to use it.

  Another type of filter that is popular is a neutral density or ND. These animals are generally gray, come in variable strength and are used to reduce the one of light reaching the sensor, so speeds that shutter slower and more large openings can be used on purpose. You've probably seen these picturesque shots with water mobile search creamy... If a stream, waterfall or ocean suft. Most of these types of shots require a kind of ND filter, when shooting with a digital camera. This is because most of the digital cameras am below ISO 100 or even 200. Some go to ISO 50. This limits the slow shutter speed can be used when shooting in daylight. If you receive this type of filter, you'll want to probably a few different strong points... they come in one, two, three, 5, 8, 10 and even more stop strengths. There is 'variable' (turn to change resistance, similar to a C - Pol), but these tend to give unequal effects and sometimes cause unwanted color shades. Note: ND filters are also often needed for videography, where the limits of frame rates limit the opening which can be used in available light.

  Another type of filter which is historically very popular among landscape photographers is the Neutral Density or ND Grad degree. These are half clear, half gray in different dosages and are used to balance a too bright sky with a foreground of an image, for example. With this type of filter, do not buy the round, screw type. You must be able to position the line of gradation differently for each image, so need to use the rectangular type of the filter, which fits into a special bracket that mounts to the front of the lens, allowing you to rotate and slide the filter if necessary.

  I have a nice set of graduates ND dating of when I shot with the film, but frankly I hardly use them more. Shooting digital, I can now do a better job with post-processing... techniques combining several exhibitions or multi-processing a single RAW file and then recombine the part "correctly exposed" of each. It's much more accurate, precise and controllable was always possible with filters.

  5. THE SOFTWARE

  But this brings us to another thing... If not already done, learn RAW and post-process your images. Canon delivered provided with your camera software is very good, but you might want to look at an all-in-one package with some features, such as Adobe Elements. If so, get a book or two on this issue, too... to help you get up to speed using it quickly and more easily. RAW image files are like a digital negative, of sorts. That's all what the camera captured at the time of exposure, but almost always need little more work so that it becomes an image can be used (JPEG, TIFF, PNG or other). However, a shot in-camera JPEG throws a lot of data and is much less "adjustable" afterwards... then you must get your exposure settings, white balance, etc. right the first time... There are fewer opportunities to change or correct later.

  6 CALIBRATION

  You can also consider calibration of your computer. There are various devices and software for this purpose, but the general idea is that most computer monitors do not give very loyal and almost all colors are much, much too bright. This makes it difficult to work accurately with your images and can lead you to a blumenthals trying to make prints. The secret is the calibration. This doesn't have to be outrageously expensive... and can pay for itself if you do a lot of prints, saving paper and ink or pulled apart if you send your print.

  7. BOOKS & CLASSES

  In general, the book of $18 "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Peterson may be the best money you ever spend on your photography. I highly recommend, regardless of your level of experience, but especially for novices. Buy it. Read. Investigate it. Learn it. Your photography will be much better and you'll get the most out of your equipment.

  There are other good books that you can watch. Some are specific to your camera in particular, guides that will help you make the most out it. Others are specific to a type of material or technical photography. Look for things that most of you are interested in.

  Or, you could take a few classes or seminars... or get involved in a photography club... or sign up for a visit in pictures or safari. This can be a great way to learn and develop your skills and too. May be as good an investment as the train would be.

  I suggest also that put you in place a plan, future gear updated level or additions to work when the budget allows. For example, maybe you don't shoot macro now, but I would like to try your hand at it in the future. It could be any number of things... Justg begin to search for and develop a list of things you want to try or items you want to improve. It may be a simple upgrade. For example, if yours is the kit lens 18-55mm that was originally supplied with the XTi, ago most recent and IS a version improved the EF-S 18 - 55 EF-S 18-55 IS STM. Update "Stepper Motor" of the latter is faster, quieter and more precise. An upgrade even more high-end and, of course, the most expensive would be the lens EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS USM.

  Don't know how use you it, but there are also a number of improvements since the 75- 300 mm you have. The most affordable is the EF-S 55-250mm, now also with the STM focus drive. There are also several 70- 300 L IS USM is the most award-winning build and image quality. One of the EF 70-200mm lenses would be very nice upgrades, too... These are real 'horse' lenses that you find in bags for cameras in most of the pro shooters. The IS versions of them are stabilized, which may be important for telephoto lenses. The f4 versions are more compact and lighter weight, which might be nice for travel.

  You do not have the funds to one of them now, but someday you might. And if you have a capital plan that you want to add or upgrade in the future, you can prioritize according to your needs and usage and to start working with the eventual upgrade. No plan is set in stone, either. You can always change, if your needs or modification of the options available.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• When I hover over a link, Firefox adds the site before my link makes it bad.

  I was check the compatibility of my site. So I opened http://www.sethermal.com. It was fine until I flew over a link. Firefox has added the site and broke the link.

  For example.
  I entered the address bar www.sethermal.com . The site came fine.
  I hover over the 'Site Map' link on my page. Link is http://www.sethermal.com/pages/site-map.html
  Before clicking on the link, I looked down and Firefox shows www.sethermal.com/-www.sethermal.com\pages\site-map.html
  When I click on the link of course I 404 page not found

  Why is this happening?

  These links have a backslash instead of a slash.
  Firefox is not so forgiving as other browsers and treats a backslash as a character valid and thus prefixes links with the URL of the page.

  [1] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\index.html">
  [2] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\service.html">
  [3] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\about-us.html">
  [4] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\contact-us.html">
  [5] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\site-map.html">
  [6] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\Application\application.html">
  [7] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\IndustrialHeaters\industrial-heaters.html">
  [8] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\ComponentHeaters\component-heaters.html">
  [9] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\ProcessControls\process-controls.html">
  [10] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\PackagedProducts\packaged-products.html">
  [11] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\HeatExchangers\heat-exchangers.html">
  [12] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\ColdWeatherProducts\cold-weather-products.html">
  [13] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\products\Sensors\sensors.html">
  [14] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\resources\engineering-data.html">
  [15] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\resources\industry-application.html">
  [16] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\stsnews\sts-news.html">
  [17] <a href="http:\\www.sethermal.com\pages\stsnews\hot-products.html">

• XP Device Manager shows me 'PnP BIOS Extension' with a yellow top flag

  I tried to load the new software for an HP printer and it would not load correctly. I checked the Device Manager to see if the USB port has an error, but instead I see an icon with a yellow flag on it in "System devices". The name of the icon is 'PnP BIOS Extension'. I just click the mouse over it to see the Properties , and there are three tabs: general, pilot, Details

  the device status window general tab has this message: Windows cannot load the driver for this hardware device. The driver may be corrupted or missing. (Code 39).
  
  
  Driver tab, it says:
  Driver provider: unknown
  Driver date: not available
  Driver version: not available
  Digital signer: not digitally signed
  On the Details tab, it says: ROOT\SYSTEM\0003
  I tried the driver but it failed with the message: the hardware was not installed because the wizard cannot find the necessary software.
  
  
  Can someone help me understand how to fix this problem?

  Well you can right click on it, select "update driver..." Or, try to update the

  Hp BIOS, if its current, you may have a defective battery on board, it would be

  give some data, but perhaps not all, anytime, cold weather brings on battery

  and the questions of the bulb... Also, try to update the software of the chipset advice, get it from its

  MFG (intel, amd, etc.), which gives the ability to run hardware tips xp...

• influential zero degrees on computer

  If I leave my computer in the trunk of my car with the temperature below freezing for several days it will be affect or damage it

  Hello

  Let the computer onto the trunk of the car is not recommended even in the column admitted
  temperatures of 50-95 and the freezing temperatures are much too cold. Check with your
  The manufacturer of the system.

  Top 10 tips for cold weather
  http://MobileOffice.about.com/od/laptopstabletpcs/TP/coldweathertips.htm

  Top 8 tips for the use of laptops in warm & hot weather
  http://MobileOffice.about.com/od/usingyourlaptop/TP/hotlaptoptips.htm

  I hope this helps.
  Rob - bicycle - Mark Twain said it is good.

• Cannot send outgoing mail, Time Warner Cable

  Separated from this thread.

  I run a shelter in cold weather and an explosion of the e-mail sent to my volunteers around the same time, you have made and received the same exact error message.   As of today, I can't send messages.  I'm in trouble because I can't reach about 200 volunteers.  I called TWC and after about half an hour to work with me, said they can't help and this has to do with Microsoft.  I called Microsoft and they said that because I have Windows Live Mail and not Outlook, they cannot help me.  I have to buy the program in order to get direct help.  They gave me an e-mail of support to try (support.live.com) and these people want money - $42!.  I bought online a 2010 Outlook that I could download on the site and the computer would not download it.  I need to contact my volunteers or there will be a lot of people sleeping in the cold Tuesday night.  I really need help.  It was my error message:

  The message could not be sent. The setting for your outgoing e-mail [SMTP] Server may need to be configured. To find the server settings for ' * address email is removed from the privacy *', please contact your e-mail service provider.

  Topic "new ORDER OF THE TEAMS.

  Server error: 451

  Server response: 451 denied outgoing mail - 97.104.28.250 - see http://www.timewarnercable.com/en/residential-home/support/topics/internet/email-setup.html [R0209002]

  Server: ' smtp - server.cfl.rr.com'

  Windows Live Mail error ID: 0x800CCC79

  Protocol: SMTP

  Port: 587

  Secure (SSL): No.

  The server response: 451 outgoing messages refused means that your computer is fine, but the server Timer Warner block your outgoing e-mail.  They do normally when they detect that you are sending too much email (like 200 people is probably far above their limit).  They do this to block spammers.

  If you need to send more e-mail, you will need to get a paid service that specializes in these things.  Time Warner could have a business plan that is suitable for this purpose, or you could use a separate company, such as Constant Contact's e-mail Services.  There are a lot.

  But your computer is perfectly fine, nothing on your end is the origin of the problem.

• Battery life to shorten the blackBerry Smartphones

  I got my BB Bold 9700 for 10 months. There are a few week, I moved out of Macedonia in London in the United Kingdom. My mobile in Macedonia operator has unlocked the phone to me.

  As I arrived in London, my battery life reduced to 2 days only, and it used to be 5-6 days. I use it as often as I used it in Macedonia.

  Does have a connection to:

  -Unlocking the phone (I have not changed my version of the system)

  -really cold here in London these days, or

  -network coverage bad London (quite often, I lose my network)?

  Thank you for the answers!

  Dejan

  Hello and welcome,

  To answer your questions...

  Does have a connection to:

  -Unlocking the phone (I have not changed my version of the system)

  No, should not make a difference.

  -really cold here in London these days, or

  Cold weather can affect the battery life. I live in the Canada and in winter the days where I'm out longer that usual, my battery has a tendency to empty a little faster than if it is kept inside (i.e. hot).

  -network coverage bad London (quite often, I lose my network)?

  Not sure what you mean by "bad network coverage", but if you look at the bars in the upper right corner of the phone, the more bars you have, the less battery that you will use when you use your phone. When you have very little bars showing, then your BB will use more energy when you use it, as it has been to work that much harder to get a signal.

  Hope that helps - cheers!

• Add link to the text of the css/javascript gallery

  I have several galleries of pictures generated by using css and Dreamweaver the text value of the container behavior.  I would like the text that appears under each of the large pictures to contain a link, but the link breaks the script.

  This is one of the pages: the many faces of Lene Lovich: 1979-2006

  Looking at the code for the second image, add in the code highlighted in red below does NOT work.

  Does anyone know how to do this?

  	< a href = "" javascript:; "onclick =" MM_setTextOfLayer ('2334' ",' < p > < img src = & quot;jpg/Lene-Lovich/galleries/1979-2006/15LampPost.jpg & quot; alt = & quot;) Lene Lovich at Highbury Fields & quot; / > < br / > < span style = & quot; do-size: 14px; & quot; > photo: Chappell </span > < br > we took this < a href = 'www.google.com' >at the time of Flex< /a >, late into the night under the pure Street-lamp light at Highbury Fields, Northeast London.  I don't remember the exposure time, but it was very long. < br > was the cold weather? I wore a lot of curtains at this time. Never had any clothes, just a caseful of bits found everywhere where I was. (< br > - Lene Lovich < /p > ') ">"
  	"< img src="jpg/Lene-Lovich/galleries/1979-2006/15LampPost.jpg "alt = 'Lene Lovich at Highbury Fields' height = '80' border ="0"class =" thm, exclude "title ="Click to enlarge">
  	< /a >

  Try to replace the double quotes by "" "" "

• The weather app seems to have stopped working. True?

  I have been using the weather app without problem until recently. Now the app seems to have stopped working. What is the problem and what going to be fixed?

  It works fine for me. He told me exactly how cold it is outside (where I have to go soon). Have what troubleshooting steps you taken?

• Canon Pixma Pro - 100 prints very dark

  I see that it is a recuring with the Canon Pixma Pro-100 problem, but nothing, I found an online help I ask and hope someone can solve this problem for me.

  Just picked up a Pixma Pro-100 today and installed on my iMac 27 "(Yosemite) 2011 with the latest drivers downloaded from Canon to be sure to have the website." I also checked the printer firmware but it's later to 1,100. Weather, I'm printing through Lightroom or Photoshop; by Canon Print Studio Pro, my garden image, or by LR / PS directly; with - or without PS as a manager of color; the prints is proving to be much to dark.

  I have to set an exposure of 2/3 in LR to be anywhere nearby to get the same result as on the screen. I am also careful to select the right ICC for correct paper profiles. My monitor is calibrated with a Spyder4pro and I also re-calibrated her during this process to see if that helped.

  Well. Long story short; the prints are dark. So I borrowed 2013 Spyder4pro MacBook Pro (Yosemite my wife) and installed the latest drivers from Canon. Once again; on this machine, the impressions are also to dark with about + 2/3 in order to correct the impression of something that looks like the monitor. The two screens can also be programmed to 30% brightness.

  I also have access to an Epson Stylus Photo R3000 and the prints of that much brighter spell.

  Unfortunately, I see that many others also have the same problem. Then; Here's the question. How can I fix it? Do I have to return the printer and get a refund? Because it's clearly not good enough.

  Thank you very much for your answers. But unfortunately, I have "been there, done that" on all of your advice.

  I go back on Monday to the printer and replace it with an equal Epson printer as I have only good experiences with this brand and the prints I get without using overtime to tinker with settings.

  It was my first (and last) Canon printer.

• You can exit video live via HDMI on Vixia HF R400 without registration?

  I want to hook up a HDMI video switch two camcorders and HD monitors to a computer and capture output software such as Adobe Premiere Pro allows to capture the video and sound. Of course, the computer will have an HDMI video capture card.

  Yes, it should work. The R400 has an HDMI output, and if I'm wrong, on-screen-display output can be disabled.

  However, remember that the R400 wants to record with a very fast shutter speed, which in low light, the image looks quite grainy. I advise to use an HD webcam instead if that's an option for you. Old M-series cameras are a little better and also have an HDMI output. In fact, I think to just about all of Canon's HD camcorders. Whether or not it will work depends more on the configuration of your other equipment.

• Filter for Canon L lens

  I just got my first Canon L lens and after some research, I decided not to buy a UV filter as protection for the front glass element.  Then I can read the presentation (B & H) for the EF 16-45 mm F/4 L, which States that "when paired with an optional filter to Protect, this lens also features a dust and water resistant construction for use under adverse conditions. So now I'm confused: why a $1,200 L lens does need a "Protect filter? By "adverse conditions", what do mean?  Should all lenses L be fitted with a protective filter?  What would be a 'protective filter' recommended?  I'd appreciate some advice on this because I want to protect my investment in my L lens and consider making a recommended.

  Some 'L' series lenses are waterproof.  If you see a black silicone gasket to the mounting flange back, then chances are it's a goal and waterproof.  But you have to read the instructions for each specific objective know what it means.  A few lenses indicates that they are only waterproof only if a protection filter is attached.

  Weather sealing means that the lens is usually sealed against dust, rain and spray - but it is important to remember that this does NOT mean that the lens is "tight".  They are not sealed against water under pressure.  If you blast it with a spear of fire... you will probably get water inside.  Similarly, they will flee if submerged.  There is "underwater camera housings" available when you need the camera & the goal of being ready to go under the water.

  Furthermore, just because a lens is weather-sealed does not mean that the body of the camera is waterproof.  Only some camera body get weather sealing and the level of treatment varies.  Usually, intermediate and superior camera tend to have at least one treatment of the weather sealing, but even in this case, there are some obvious gaps.  The door of the memory card and battery door are two examples of places that have no weather seals.

  Other than that... There are a few downsides to having a UV filter.

  First of all, the camera has an internal UV filter, so the second filter does not really offer help in this Department.

  Second, a flat glass filter, it is able to create nice reflections that can be seen by the camera.  This can create 'ghosts' reflections and other effects undesirable undersireable.  The use of filters with anti-glare coatings will substantially reduce this problem, but these filters cost a bit more.  Also, they will simply 'reduce' substantial reflections but do not guarantee that you get no thoughts at all.

  The glass itself is durable enough.  Be gentle with it when clean you and you will never have a problem (use a soft 'clean' microfibre cloth).  The sun visor (even if you are not trying to protect from the glare) actually helps keep something striking the glass.  The hood is probably better protection than a UV filter.