definition of level of black on 1405

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• Definition of levels of booking for a virtual machine

  The vcloud usage meter says:

  NET points = (vGB hours X points per 1 GB reserved RAM) / hours per month

  
  

  A month calendar of 30 days, a service provider uses the vCloud package provider services - first Edition to configure its virtual machine with 16 vGB for 15 days and 48 vGB 15 days remaining. The level of booking for the virtual machine is set to 75 percent for the whole month.

  15 days x 24 hours x 16 vGB x 0.75 = 4 320 hours of vGB

  15 days x 24 hours x 24 vGB (vGB 48 x 0.75 but capped at 24 GB) = 8 640 hours of vGB

  Total number of hours of vGB = 12 960 hours of vGB

  Total points = 12 960 vGB hours ÷ 720 hours / month x 7 points (for Prime Minister) = 126 points

  Where "the level of booking' for a virtual machine?  Is - this talk on VM bookings each parameter in vCenter Server, or do something to the extent of consumption vCloud himself?

  Hello. The reservation level is set for each virtual machine, using a vSphere Client or API.

• XPS 15 9550 with 4K display levels of good black out

  I bought a new XPS 15 with the infinity display 4 k, and for some reason, the computer laptop screen suffers from black and white crush extreme. I tried to calibrate the screen, and it seems that the lowest and the highest video are be cut. As a result, the dark areas of an image to merge with absolute black creating terrible color banding and pixilation in shadows of images.

  I tried to make adjustments in color first dell windows (tried to uninstall it as well), internal display settings, control panel of the integrated graphics card intel, and none of them made the difference. Even with the brightness, contrast or show black max level in video settings more weak are indistinguishable from absolute black. Even the opposite ends with white.

  The issue is identical to the output of the wrong video level to a screen (for example to display the range complete pc to a regular TV with limited series), but I see no way to resolve internal laptop display settings.

  For the record, output levels from black to a TV via HDMI are thin, so it's clearly a problem with the signal to the computer screen or laptop display itself and not a problem of overall system.

  To be clear, this is an extreme amount of clipping. I understand that most of the screens cannot output a video full range of 0-255 without some bands. However, on my laptop, it's so bad that anything containing the shadows looks terrible. Photos even without compression of space have terrible pixelation that makes it looks like these images 4 bits from the beginning of the 1990s.

  My problem is solved now. The culprit was the drivers Intel HD Graphics 530 (version 20.19.15.4390, released 18/02/2016). I use an old version (20.19.15.4331, published on 18/11/2015).

  The clipping, banding has been completely remedied. The system is occasionally and will prompt to install the new drivers. I'll have to hold on to the next. I don't know if there's a degradation of performance elsewhere.

  The most recent drivers on Dell support below page:

  Version

  Version 20.19.15.4390, A05

  Category

  Video

  Release date

  March 29, 2016

  Last updated

  March 30, 2016

• Encoding format Blu - ray destroyed my black levels - that I'm going to hurt?

  I need to burn a short to Blu - ray for a future projection, but whenever first/encoder/still ends the disc, the levels of black look anything like what I saw in my project schedule OR even preview. Blacks are soft, gray, with way too many details in them. Research led me to believe that my question has something to do with the color of my project values is from 0 to 255, but that Adobe Media Encoder that will pass automatically to the 16-235. Or something. I don't know, this is all new to me in the last 12 hours.

  I've missed around with the effect levels in first just to test this hypothesis, and when I came out of 0 to 16 in the timeline panel black levels, he did reproduce the difference I saw in the finish of the blu.

  I scoured all the parameters in first and still a way to control the levels of black get in / out of encoder, but couldn't find anything. Someone please tell me what stupid thing I overlooked so that I can make this film to look right.

  For reference, my video source is:

  Images of .mov DSLR, 1920 x 1080, 23.976

  And I export to Blu - ray using the following parameters:

  MPEG 2 (also tried H.264, same result)

  NTSC

  CBR (from the film only 22 minutes), but I also tried VBR 2 pass to max, minimum target and 25mbps 35mbs 40mbps.

  Profile: 5.0

  Rendering quality Max, maximum depth, max everything.

  First Pro Cs5.5 running

  You were right about that. The settings in the graphics card drive (which apparently I put manually) had the card using its own settings for office and most applications (like the first), but default to the default settings of the program for some video players (that is, only Power DVD). I now see the contrast values constantly between PP and blu reading on the computer, but there is still a question (much more subtle) contrast and gamma when I burn on blu. Will try some of the suggestions above and after return. Thank you guys.

• Question about rich blacks

  OK, I know that this topic has been discussed several times in these forums, and I've read many of them. However I need help with details pertaining to the following question.

  Lets say, I'm working on album covers and import a picture into my document psd to cmyk. To create a shadow, I then paint in the background areas with a black color with a soft brush. I add a text, "convert to shapes" and save as PDF for printing. One of my concerns is that the areas that I painted with black print possibly to a different shade of black to my photo. It should be a concern?

  I understand that the default black 0,0,0,100 is ok for small text and images, but for bigger bigger texts and larger areas of black, it is preferable to use an intense black as (0,60,0,100) for example. Well, since I have more large areas of black outside my image, how do I change them to a rich black while ensuring it will mix well in black edges of my images? Just mix everything with a brush sweet sampling of colors while enough to ensure my black will print in color is uniform?

  I read on "create a profile" and a "custom CMYK" allowing me to adjust my levels of black, but not quite sure how to make this really and when it must be done. I have experimented with this option and noticed that it seems not darken my blacks, but also obscuring the black pixels in areas unwanted such as a people's face in a picture for example. I guess I could just apply changes to a new layer and hide the or erase the unwanted areas so the original indicates layer shows through.

  Sorry if that sounds confusing, that I am a bit confused with how to approach fills with projects where I painted in some blacks. Any help from someone competent in this area would be greatly appreciated.

  I have attached the cover of the album I'm working on to show what I'm trying to do.

  For this type of image, the ONLY way I would, and I did more that I can count, would be to make the composite whole or whatever you want to call in RGB. When your black blend RGB, they will automatically, as stated above, work together, but to ensure that they are based in fact. Second, you want or need in a black traditional "rich." You want what you get - a 300 percent ink medium light black black generation. You don't want or need a 100 per cent black in this image type. Take account of this photograph. The black area in is NOT the same which would fill you with an intense black solid part of graphic design.

  In regards to the CMYK conversion, of course you don't get 90 percent black of this conversion. That's what indicates the SWOP v2 profile and it's why happened just to add up to 300 percent of ink. Now, if that's the right profile for your printer is doubtful, and the way you describe the people you have worked with, it sounds like they Classic old school print idiots. I would definitely not trust them with the conversion, but of course, I want to see proof on their first Proofer. If it were me, I would just take a profile custom and with it, but you don't have that luxury.

  If you start to mix and paint CMYK, you may really goes well beyond the limit of ink for your process, or worse, ending up with a weird CMYK mix in black that prints in reality with a cast you can see.

• HP Envy 120: 120 black cartridge HP envy does not print

  Hello.

  I run my printer for almost 2 years at home (not a lot of prints, for the most part only the documents and especially only BW print) without any problem. This morning I wanted to print two PDF documents when I realized that the black areas are not filled with color but that he had gray borders. I thought that my black cartridge empty (I was printing via the bridge my Android phone HP print) I do not even have a notice "empty cartridge". I checked the level of these two cartridges and black has been estimated at about 20% left. Nevertheless I exchanged for an entirely new black while keeping the plu RGB (estimated at about 40% left).

  After closing the lid, was asked to align the printer, so I did and to my surprise, what came out of the printer was an almost empty page with only blue rectangles in the middle. I remember my first installation page must contain all of the rectangles of color and black text. But only the blue were there. Then I also exchanged the RGB cartridge, but with the same result!

  So I started the cleaning cartridge where the RGB cartridge began to work properly, but black has always refused to print. I googled for solutions and came here on the support forums and read of similar problems with their solutions. Then I tried to reset the printer (connect to offshore for more than 10 minutes) and no solution. I removed the black cartride, tried to clean the print head with a cloth somehow dry and then put handwarm water for a few minutes, then it dried out and placed baack on the printer (as suggested in a detailed response) also with no solution.

  I tried to replace the new black cartridge with the former and I tried the alignment status of the printer and cleaning again, but all with the same result - black print cartridge will not print!

  The black cartridge simply refuses to print but I replace it with a new one or keep the old! I'm now full of ideas to try to solve the problem.

  What else he or I could try next?

  I don't really understand why or how, but when I tried the printer after a few hours of rest after the cartridges have been replaced what happened:

  1 black ink started working, but with a lot of streaks and bland / shadows

  2. I printed the quality report which finally black was present with fades in gray bars

  3. I ran automated cleaning after which (second level) the black bars (gray) have been quite well

  4. I ran alignment of the printer that contains forms black and blue and black text in vain the results still alignment in "alignment" with no idea why.

  However, it seems that the printer works again. It seems that only time will heal these Envys as when I had problem with scanner (it scanned completely grey pages - I mean the whole A4 it analysis was only filled gray A4) he needed to rest a few hours, even after the scanner has worked yet. Strange, but effective :-)

• HP Photosmart Premium C309: printer cannot print black ink (it's a new cartridge).

  Hi everyone, I hope someone can help me troubleshoot my printer.

  yesterday, I installed a brand new authentic ink cartridge of HP for printer HP C309 photosmart premium.

  The ink level for black on the printer is full, my other levels of color ink is low, but that should not affect something because I never print in black and white for the documents from the school.

  I tried to print black-and-white documents and the printer is fading the black in and out and sometimes not black at all, despite the fact that I have installed a new black ink cartridge.

  I tried:

  (1) align the printer cartridges through the tool on printer settings (this alignment failed 2 times, always without success)

  (2) cleaning of the print head through tool on printer settings (tried this 3 times and still no improvement)

  Any other suggestions?

  Hi @plutolover2011

  I want to help you to be able to print again. I understand your color cartridges work, but it's not black ink.  Please start with the procedure described in the following document; Printer prints a blank Page or does not print black or color ink for HP Photosmart Premium C309a the C309c all-in-One

  If you have performed all the steps in the document above and the problem persists, not one of HPs, my personal recommendation is to use the solution put forward in the next video.  I suggest that if the printhead and the printer he are out of warranty.  Hot water rinse printhead - HP ink printers of the series with removable head.

  I have recommended this solution to others and have been successful, but I can't guarantee that this will solve the problem, it is a term of type line of effort. I hope it helps.

  PaganC wrote:

• Photosmart 5510 requires the color cartridge to print in black

  I have an Imac running MAC OS X 10.7.5 and a HP Photosmart 5510.

  I can't select a black and white printing other than "regular, fast rough, black and white paper.

  QUESTION: Why are there no "plain paper, best option, black and white"? Or should I ask, where is the ordinary paper, the best black and whitee option?

  Surely each printer must be able to print the last option.

  To satisfy my need for a good level of black and white print that I have to use the color cartridges - it is expensive.

  I would be grateful for any help.

  Thank you.

  To print graphics or the text of quality 'Best' the printer uses color ink.  In the case of text, the color ink is printed black to improve the darkness and roughness of the edge.  (Color ink makes printing 'together' more quickly, reducing the purge on the edges).

  For graphics, the printer uses drops color printing black or gray printing mode best because it gives much better graphics.  The color ink droplets are much smaller than the black.  When the color ink is used for printing in grayscale or B & W graphics, the results are much thinner that the result would be in black ink only.

  If the quality does not matter (much) draft mode provides the best economy, but for a better print quality, color ink is necessary.

• HP5514 could not be found in grayscale or black and white option button in preferences / how to make it appear the box tool

  I have a new 5514 which works perfectly.  However I don't find the option button to grayscale or black and white printing.  However, under Advanced settings, there is a drop down menu which show grayscale printing that the dropdown displays Off/High quality levels of black ink only.  Is it the only place to set this mode?

  Also, I can only do appear the 5510d box tool by selecting estimated ink levels.  Y at - it a shortcut for setting this up?

  Thanks in advance.

  Hello sabretooth04.

  Yes, it is the only option where you can set up the printer to print in grayscale.

  Bravo!

• Always printing black ink cartridge is not after several clean using your own ink cartridges

  I have a HP Deskjet 3050 All in One J610 series printer.

  I use Windows XP.

  I'm a Newbie as HP printers are concerned, but some have experience troubleshooting former HP model a parent.

  The black cartridge is not printing.   For various reasons, I have not used the printer for about two months.  So far, the printer worked fine, and in fact it is still using the cartridges that came with the printer.  I mention these points here because I realize or the other or both can be part of the issue.

  When I sent a document to the printer, printing was uneven.  I checked ink levels and black and color cartridges were about the third two full (before I used the print head cleaning utility.

  After cleaning the printheads, I tried again and this time the impression was the same, but in a shade of light blue, which was very low.  However, the original document is in a police man and a shade of gray, so perhaps he used ink cartridge color and not black?

  Research using the viewer help from HP does not help because it implies that you don't know how to locate the ink cartridge Clean Utility.

  After searching on Google to match the questions, I tried a second and then a third level of cleaning.  And because a post mentioned have to do eight times, I did a little more luck.  When the page is printed at the end of the cleaning cycle, the colors come out crisp and even.  There is no black bloc... is there?  I can't find an image showing a what print perfect following cleaning should look like.

  Additional to clean using the utility attempts do not seem to have worked and could even have been counterproductive because when I tried to print another document, and this came out so pale that I first thought that it is a blank page.

  I used the utility to re-estimated ink levels and the color is always about two third full, while black has dropped a little down, but is still above half full.  There is a check/tick showing for black ink and color.

  Messages on similar questions suggest that the replacement of the cartridge does not solve the problem and that heads should be cleaned manually.

  Should I try to clean the heads manually?  Who was mentioned on the threads and even on the HP support but as another option for a very different model.   I watched some demos on You Tube, but they are for different models of HP, in which they remove the printheads and clean them in a solution provided in the trade which I think is available in the United Kingdom, or with water!

  I would be grateful for any advice as to whether I should remove the black cartridge and clean heads printing and, if so, if someone could point me to a link where this is illustrated step by step, video, or shown in the logical steps.

  In the meantime I'll go off and buy a new black cartridge, but if it's the heads need cleaning, I'll have to do anyway.

  Thanks for any advice you can give me!

  I would like to manually clean the contacts on the cartridges and the printer. The process is described for your model of printer in step 3 of this document here.  The rest of the document does not apply to your question, but it does a great job giving instructions step by step on the manual cleanup process and materials needed to use lists. Manual cleaning will help ensure that the accumulation of contacts is not the cause of the issue of the print quality that you are experiencing. I hope this helps.

• Avoiding Rich black in the files for printing

  Situation: One our vendors with which I work is printed paper, which suggests no black rich in PDF files or files HAVE.

  Problem: Despite a palette limited (in which I use 100% black, white and a range of primary colors), the definition both a Rich Black element seems to find its way files in my working file HAVE (and there PDF for printing). I noticed this happened sometimes when I copy the text (or elements of black color) since another file I and then paste the items into the file, I'm working on that. It seems to happen only a few times. Outside by clicking on each black element - to research on the artboard and it controls in the color window to see only the black is 100% and CMY are all 0%, it is a surefire way to avoid the intense black in every capacity (especially in the fine print)? I saw the appearance of the black panel, but which seems to deal only with the screen devices and output RGB.

  Any help or advice is appreciated! I would like to solve this problem.

  Side-note: I use CC on a Mac.

  Check your files in Acrobat format.

  Use the separations Panel in Illustrator. Disbling the rear channel should give you a clue that is opposed to inspect more

• Levels histogram vs general histogram

  Can someone tell me the difference between the Histogram tool of levels and the general histogram?

  I'm currently editing pure blacks and you each give me another black reading. The histogram levels tool black is up, but the general histogram shows a beautiful curve of blacker blacks.

  I just want to get pure blacks while preserving the details in the shadows. Thanks for your help.

  

  Level histogram is RGB, even if you have the main histogram defined on brightness:

  Understanding digital camera histograms: luminosity and color

  Also (this is perhaps not the case), the levels histogram will look just the layer you are on, while the main histogram can be set to see the entire image or layer.  Of course, if you have only a single layer, then it wouldn't make a difference.

• 'Convert to destination' for B & W ad?

  Maybe it's the basic 101, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to this question: exporting a PDF from InDesign, the setting of 'Color Conversion' in the output pane affect how a PDF is actually printed on the press?  Or just how it appears on the monitor?

  I export a black and white advertising for newspapers and magazines.  The ad has a picture to grayscale.  The default output for the "quality of the press' screening includes"Convert to Destination (preserve numbers)"with a destination"Document CMYK.

  But which produces a PDF file in which the photo appears lighter than the original (as if to compensate for the earnings of dot).  Overview of the present output in Acrobat, of course, that the actual levels of Blacks have not changed.

  I've chosen "No color conversion" instead, so the client sees the ad on the screen as it should actually appear in the press.

  But is it a mistake?  When the newspaper or magazine is important the PDF ad in their publication, "No color conversion" will cause the picture to print too dark?  Should I, in fact, use the "convert to destination" after all?

  And maybe I should use the PDF / X - 1a: 2001 preset in this case, but the same question remains: color Conversion is required to get a black and white PDF?

  I thank very you much for your time.

  Ernie

  What is a profile that I can download?  The one that I need to create?

  It is also possible to convert a CMYK black ink to another in Photoshop. If you can maintain the appearance of your current Dot Gain 20% used and modify the exit numbers.

  Do this load the CMYK profile like gray, workspace, according to Peter (click on more Options If you do not see load gray), and then choose Save Gray and save the profile of black ink in your profiles folder of. After you save the profile of black ink, it should show in your profile dialog box convert.

  

• The supersaturation

  I learned from a couple of pro photographers on a site I frequent that my photos are generally oversaturated.  I have 10 PSE and almost always make the following changes:

  -using the quick selection, do an Auto setting, then increase the shadows, highlights and the means to highlight more than definition

  -l' use of Full, do an auto levels, sometimes an automatic Color Correction (based on what it looks like), and finally do a little sharpness with the Unsharp mask

  Rarely I adjust (increase) the saturation more precisely.  So my questions are:

  (1) I think I have a general idea when photos are too saturated, but what precisely you want to indicate that they are?

  (2) change PES modification I do above implicitly saturation?  If so, how can I change my changes so as not to over saturate?

  (3) can you take a look at some of my photos and give me your opinion as to whether they are too saturated?  The first photo of the Butterfly in the photo gallery has been specifically adjusted for saturation, but most of the others were not.

  http://www.Flickr.com/photos/98772145@N05/

  Thank you.

  I see the same thing if I change the image of fox for example in the same way that you specified, even if this particular image does not need, well done, in my opinion, and so the Supersaturation is less than others.

  I think you're on the right track by saying things quick fix, because these reduce the overall dynamic range more than a little and accentuate the saturation slightly the net effect is a mismatch against nature between the overall contrast and saturation.  If you reduce the contrast in a scene that colors are also silent, but with your multiple iterations of patches the opposite occurs normally.

  The other comment is that the sharpness is applied to things that don't deserve, especially noise, and how you reduce this is to increase the threshold a bit to avoid areas with no sharpening edges.  I saw that on fox's photo, a threshold of about 15 looked good, which sharpens the reflection in the eye and some of the fur that is in discussion, but leaves the noisy areas out-of-focus only.

  You asked what you could do different and I have two approaches to give, which none use Quick or Auto fixes and actually less Act.  First is to use levels and dark/light tones that are both in virtue of strengthening / adjust the lighting.  The third option in this menu is brightness/contrast, but the image of Fox was almost okay so didn't really need any of that.  Here are screenshots of the menu items and the adjustments I made to your photo to use:

  

  First of all, I used levels to adjust the point black 12 which was where the histogram ran out of values at the end then augmented and lower overall brightness by using the gamma slider to where it looked ok, but not too bright.  In this example, I used 1.20.  With another type of photo, you may need to move the point where the histogram has lack of values of the white light side, this picture was pure white already in it, so it was not necessary.  The auto levels command does the black and white point adjustments, but he's exaggerating them a little so I like to use the levels of black and white point sliders to be more precise:

  

  Then, I liked how you made out a little more in detail in the highlights, so used the shadows / highlights to compress the light values slightly and also used the contrast in the midtones to give the image a little more pop textures:

  

  None of this has significantly increased the saturation or compressed dynamic range both to make things seem unnatural.

  I left your sharpening except by using a threshold of 15 as I have said, above.  This image was rather blurry, so he probably needs more attention sharpening using different rays and perhaps another sharpening tool, but I didn't want to spend time with the most obvious problem at hand being supersaturation.

  --

  The second technique, which is a bit more radical but more useful in my opinion, is to open the JPG file in the Camera Raw plugin, although it is not not a raw format file.  This has the advantage of having all toning available cursors at the same time without having to go though various menus and buttons to find each small set of adjustments and self as just a button to click, although usually I support most of what the car has decided for me but it's always something quick to try at first.  There is also better sharpening and noise reduction.

  OK, to open a non - raw in the Camera Raw plugin file, you can use file / open as... After choosing the image, set the on Camera Raw File Type, and then click Open:

  

  Here is your original image open in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) with all the toning settings to zero:

  

  Here's how I adjusted the toning sliders.  I had first you click on Auto and didn't like how it was too dark, so I only left blacks to + 1 and reset or adjusted everything else.  The overall picture seems a bit dark for me, so I increased the exposure of half-one-stop, but who washed points out so I composed their return by setting highlights - 87, so there was some details in the rock of fur and prominent Chin.  Finally, I increased the clarity, who spent the contrast of textures, and finally I added a tiny bit of shine.  If I adjusted the blackopint not bad, then that could have saturated everything, and I could have approached that simply by setting the brightness or Saturation on a slightly negative value.  I also love a little extra color in my treatment, so a slight bit of added Vibrance seemed good to me.  The Vibrance slider is different from Saturation in that he is not pushing skin (reds, oranges, yellows) as much as the Green and blue tones, so that it works to enhance the color in pictures people without exaggerating their skin.  I put the original right on the same line is easier to compare:

  

  In addition toning you can detail adjustment, which involves sharpening and noise reduction.  Here is the part of the face of the image initially treated 100% if you click on it.  The first thing you will notice is that all the grainy noise is sharp, even in areas that are vague or blurred by camera from left to right movement and the other thing to notice is the Green and especially of color reddish-purple color noise spots which not quite all were removed in camera :

  

  Here are the settings sharpness and noise reduction, that I moved after a few minutes:

  

  The main thing to note is that the only sharp parts are those that have relatively strong details, the reflection in the eyes and fur on their side of the eyes and a little mustache.  The rest is mostly out of focus.  For a better shot, without camera movements, sharpening could be quite different.  How I didn't realize that sharpen the edges that where relatively already sharp and ignoring the noise and other out-of-focus areas was with the sharpness masking, parameter, which in this case is 77. It's a bit like the setting of the sharpness in regular emphasis to post-secondary studies, but there a way to define visually, holding the key Alt dragging the cursor hide back and forth until the boldest edges are given key:

  

  I see in this screenshot that I got the retail value of 5 slider, which was probably better than the 25 that I used in the screenshot above.  The other thing to notice is the Luminance and color noise reduction sliders are set to reduce the tiny specs of noise and green/purple stains.

  One thing I have to mention about the use of that Camera Raw, it's I think PSE10 you can update to version the most recent can be 6.7 cab which will not have the same set of sliders tonic as in my example - I hacked a 7.1 beta plugin to use with it to get the new sliders, but normally you would have those available in the PSE10 I don't think.  You must use PSE11 or better yet, wait for the PSE12 that comes out in another week or two.

  This new method of toning and detail adjustment works well with the images one by one via file / open, but isn't this effective ot use for many images.  The best thing for what isn't expensive Photoshop would be to get Lightroom, which has these same settings but also optimized to work with dozens, hundreds or even more images from a photoshoot.  The other advantage of Lightroom, you can use a wide range of filters and brushes that are limited to the version hosted by elements of the Camera Raw plugin.

  Remember when I said I thought the overall image of the fox was too dark, that is really happening is the Fox is too dark and I could care rocks and other elements of the background is not important.  Here is a version of the same image of Fox using radial filter of Lightroom to darken the area then the Fox is more important.  One without darkening radial filter is right:

  

  Lightroom is currently on sale for $129.99 and upgrades are $79.99 with a free trial 30 days available for download, if you want to try it:

  http://www.Adobe.com/Lightroom/

• The Toshiba 55L7453DB picture Setup

  Has anyone got the recommended settings that I can use to set the image on my TV?

  I am not owner of the TV, but I read that Hollywood Pro who is in 'Expert Settings' produces more accurate colors.
  According to some critics, this option also produces the best black levels.
  Blacks could be a gray touch in places, especially in the film mailboxes, but which allows the active backlight control and option setting of level of black and white in the Advanced picture menu should corrected it.

  By the way: the TV supports the "Auto-Calibration".
  I think that you get the right image by using this method of auto-calibration.