First DSLR to shoot

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• first dslr cc choppy playback

  Hello as he attempted the first cc 2014, reading is really bad unusual distorted chop for me, being very pleased with the cs6 version?

  People having the same problems?

  Win7

  gtx780

  ?

  Mike d

  Hey just launched cc2014 after re-installing win7 loooooooong history exahsting

  CC seems to have a good preview window and some offers quality now!

• First Pro CS5 pixelation with T2i .mov files

  Thanks for the great information!

  Here's my scenario...

  • Windows 7 64 bit family

  • Intel quad core processor

  • Nvidia Geforce Gt240 graphics card

  • 8 GB of ram

  • G - tech g-raid0 drive 2 TB (for image storage)

  • WD Caviar Green 500 GB (OS Win764bit & amp; applications)

  • WD 250 GB usb 2.0 external drive (for backup)

  • First Pro CS5 (prod prem) modded to enable nvidia gt240 graphics card be used with the Mercury playback engine

  Backstory:

  I shot a short film of 2 weeks using a Canon Rebel T2i at 1080 p 24 with shutter speed 1/50.

  At the end of the first day of shooting, I had to transfer the .mov footage off the coast of the Trandcend 16 gb class 10 memory cards with card reader Kingston for the Raid. I used a legacy firewire card connected to the aforementioned PC (it's all I got for the firewire connection at the time), and I noticed that the file transfer has been extremely slow. So for the next two days after I transferred the rest of the video on the Raid via USB 2.0 and the other files transferred much faster.

  Play the images using VLC Media Player is well most of the time, but sometimes I see for about 5 frames pixel information is lost. It is not rolling shutter or jello. Part of the pixelated frame strongly for all 5 to 10 frames. I don't know if it's the loss of data on these images? I agree with a few images here or there, I can work around it if I have to...

  The problem:

  I used the DSLR 1080 p 24 preset to set up sequences of the first Pro CS5 project. After you import the images above, reading in two preview windows randomly is pixelated, similar to the effect of VLC, but random parts. For the most part, VLC is compatible with the management of the problem. Whenever I start the first it will be Pixelize frames in different places than before. Sometimes when I run first first is good, then after a few readings, it starts to distort. After management problem for the current session, the pixelation appears in the clips that have the green status bar. Also, sometimes (randomly) some of the clips in the timeline panel have green waves at the bottom of them, or are completely green.

  I tested the raw images in VLC, WMP, Media Player Classic (after you temporarily install KLite hoping to solve the problem). The problem that all .mov files seem to Pixelize the same framework of each player. First, but pixilated times randomly.

  Tried with two mpeg streamclip and even with cineform neoscene U transcoding. Same results.

  I have not been able to narrow down what is the problem. Any ideas?

  Thank you very much.

  The problem is resolved. My cache of media was written to my local hard drive (c :)), a WD Caviar Green 500 GB. It turns less 7200 RPM, as it is friendly green. After clearing the cache and redirect the path to the raid 0 drive 7200 RPM, the media reads in the timeline smoothly without pixelation. A high technology, Adobe has helped me solve this problem after a lot of troubleshooting. Thank you!

• Trigger voltage for former strobes on the new digital cameras

  Can someone tell me what's the trigger voltage TO a Canon SX50 HS point & shoot, My Sunpack 611

  (4800 OSP) has about 43vdc on contacts at full load, it will be something frying?

  I'm afraid I have no idea what can handle a SX50...

  I know that the older Canon SLR and perhaps the first DSLRs have been noted only for 6 volts. SLR digital current Canon are valued at 250 volts, at least since the period of 40 days, I think. Maybe sooner, but I do not know at what time, Canon has improved the SLR/DSLR line to manage a higher voltage.

  Point n shoot, however, I have no idea and don't know where to find them. You could try emailing support Canon directly. (This forum occasionally sees Canon reps and technicians down, but are mainly Canon users and fans to help each other better possible.)

  There is a Web site that shows the flash firing voltages, but which is absolutely not a complete list or a severe test of those on the list. It lists the Sunpak 611, but shows a later, a trial to have the trigger voltage of 4 volts, then as an older one was much higher at 190 volts. (I assume that you have measured your own with a VOM 611).

  So, I'm not really help a lot. Check Canon support about the features of your camera trigger voltage. If you are always worried about it, you can use something like a Wein SafeSync to protect the camera from the excessive trigger voltage. Or use the flash off camera with a radio trigger (but be aware that radio triggers often have a limit of trigger voltage, too... some I recently watched are evaluated at 24 or 30 volts).

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Camcorder suggestion

  During the summer and fall, I take pictures of scene a lot my friends participate in performance. After last fall I started thinking about making a camcorder with autofocus continuous preference? Like something I could have my tripod-mounted while I'm standing here with one of my other cameras capture still images. In October, I used my Pentax K5 DSLR to shoot a few outdoor shows, it did not too badly, I also have a Canon 6 d I bought since then but have not really play with the video function. In addition to the update on my Pentax question I'm not a big fan of time restrictions where you stop and quickly restart the recording device. Can anyone help? I prefer brand if possible Canon.

  Hello Nananner,

  Since you are looking for a camcorder that can be tripod mounted, set to record more or less unmanned and without restriction of time traditional DSLR this shooting to impose; then the VIXIA HF R40 is one we recommend.

  He has a 53 x Advanced Zoom Optical Image Stabilizer Super Beach and face detection.  The face detection mode specifically caters to your need by allowing the camera follow up to 35 faces automatically.  In addition, a specific face may be chosen to be used as the face of the main topic to use for tracking.

  According to these parameters, we think it would be a great camcorder that should fit the Bill.  If you want to visit the homepage for the VIXIA HF40, I provided a link here.  There is, of course, many other features built in that improve the ease of use of the camcorder, however, we did not want to attack your main needs first.  This model is also quite affordable, $349,99 MEADOWS, as it is stated on the Canon site main link above.

• Cannot take Photos using the LCD

  I just bought a D60 and when I try to take a picture using the LCD screen and auto focus it won't take the picture.  It will however, when I get out of auto focus or when I use the viewfinder.  But not using the LCD and AV screen on.

  Everyone knows about this problem?  If so, how to solve it?

  I assume you mean that the 60 d (he was in fact a D60, but it is more than 10 years.)

  Development of systems should has enough light and (b) an object with a certain contrast.

  For example: she would have a hard time focusing on a wall of ordinary color in dim light.  But if you give him something with contrast, going to an easier time concentrating.

  What kind of lighting you have and what kind of subject you want to photograph?

  Have you tried to test the system under ideal circumstances (beautiful light bright and contrasting topics?)

  Either way... using the camera through the viewfinder will still be faster to use liveview.  The camera actually uses different systems development depending on how you use it.

  When you use the viewfinder, autofocus camera sensors use "phase detection".  These sensors are not on the image sensor.   The reflex mirror bounces low light these sensors.  The sensors are looking for contrasting edges.  Through a Prism-like efect, part of the image moves in one direction and in the other part (imagine use a pair of scissors to cut a picture into two halves and then slightly evil align the image along the cut).  The amount of the displacement varies according to the distance of focus on the subject.   The camera is capable of analyzing the pixels along the edge to determine how the two halves should adjust, and with this, it can determine how the focus needs to be adjusted in order to bring together the image.

  There is an additional advantage to the phase system to detect.  The system is able to analyze all areas of focus at the same time.  The direction of movement tells the camera that he needs to focus closer or further away.  That means in a moment, the camaera knows _which _ AF point is on the nearest subject and he knows how and to what extent the development must settle before the picture comes to focus.  That means the phase detect AF systems is generally useless to "hunt" for focus... they know exactly which way to turn the update and how far to go to get a lock.

  The phase detection system is very fast.

  When the camera using the "live view" mode, the reflex mirror was swinging clear so that the light can strike the image sensor.  This means the tiny mirrors that bounce light in the development of phase-detect sensors are not in-game camera cannot use this system.

  Instead, it analyzes the image on the sensor trying to achieve maximum contrast in the target areas.

  The best example I can think of is to imagine a "UPC code" (bar code) and imagine what it looks like when it is 'in' focus 'out' of focus vs.  If it is, in short, you have a white background with rows of sharp, crisp, black.  But if you think that involved... colors each pixel is 'white' (background) or 'black' (scratches).  There is no pixel 'gray '.    Now, imagine this same barcode horribly blurred... you have a white background, but when you approach a black line, go you through a lot of "grey" get pixels gradually darker until you get to the black parts of the streak.   The camera knows that he emphasized when she reached the highest possible contrast between adjacent pixels.

  Unlike the "detection phase" development, the system of 'contrast' doesn't know what direction to adjust to get the update.  It samples should be taken... (adjust and see if it is better or worse... If it gets worse, reverse the sense of the update and try again).  Not only the computer did not have to do further analysis to detect if the image is sharp... He must do more iterations because of the problem of hunting of accent.

  Point & shoot cameras and 'live view' mode on cameras digital SLRS generally use this system of the development of "contrast detection.  The system is extremely accurate... but the drawback is that the computer has to analyze the image for contrast several times and it's not nearly as fast as the phase detect sensors (which are usually extremely fast).

  Cameras struggle to concentrate when there are nothing to do with contrast high to base its analysis.  They struggle in low light because there is not much difference between the dark and light areas.

  Canon has a new system called the "double pixel" AF.  They essentially combined the "phase detection" technology right on the sensor by creating micro-prismes on the surface of the imaging sensor itself.  The camera is actually capable of doing the "phase detection" style auto-focus directly on the surface of the sensor (never possible and Canon are the only company that got it.)

  The new 70 d is the first DSLR (and currently only) to get the system.

  If shoot you, you don't have the choice... the mirror must be upward in order to record videos so the camera can only use by contrast detection focus when shooting video *-with the exception of the D 70 because he can actually do "phase detection" focus directly on the sensor.

• Sunrise/sunset and the White Balance

  I have a question about the automatic substitution of the White Balance when shooting sunrises and sunsets. A few days ago I got my first DSLR, the EOS 5 d Mk III. "I know that triangle ISO after the filming of the movie on my Canon a-1 I bought 34 years ago that still works). However, this white balance thing is a fourth dimension. Films are balanced to the light of day and the ISO is also dictation. To photograph a sunrise or a sunset, for me, it makes sense to adjust the balance of whites to 5200 Kelvin (daylight). I received a response from a camera club member who said that his pictures were all in the 5000 range. Others said ' Shoot in RAW and fix it in post processing. The second answer to 'fix later' just doesn't ring my Bell. What do things right the first time? Can I set up the white light of the day or a balance other setting? I can experiment always change the white balance; After all, I do not lose film. Here is a series of sunrises that I took using Kodak Portra 400, - 2/3 stop, on my Canon a-1. http://www.Flickr.com/photos/ralphhightower/sets/72157633079358301/ Thank you, Ralph

  5200 dawn at 09:00 and 15:00 at the sunset, says Bruce Dorn. It takes great pictures!

• Update since the XTi

  Hello. I bought a XTi used two years. It was one of the first, and it's wonderful. I like it, but there is no video. I would like to upgrade to get video. The rebel is fine for me. I didn't need anything more complex or larger.

  I just read that the T3i was discontinued. The T5i is the next step up from that. I like the T3i is oscillating LED screen. I had that on my Powershot and miss me it!

  It of worth to get a T3i, or will they replace it with something else? Has any other DSLR articulated LED screen? That's the selling point for me!

  Thank you!

  Rebel T3i is still in stock at B H & <----click> for $499, including s & h.  Two things to remember, one, this is an old design and will soon be replaced and two, the rebels are not video cameras.  They are DSLR that shoot but their main motive is stills.

  Make sure you understand the video limitations with it before you buy.  And especially don't buy from sources that are not true.  I am sure that the guy from Amazon will be fair sometimes but not right now.

  In addition, there may be a refund related to the purchase to verify that.

• Import Sony film Lightroom DC problem

  I am an experienced user of Lightroom CC on MacBook Pro running OS X El Capitan. I have no problem to import from my Canon DSLR and various models including G16 G.

  But I have problems with my new Sony RX10 III imports. The LR advanced import dialog box detects and any fixed images on the SDXC card. But he can't find or show one of the movies.

  As a solution, I can import files and search directories on the map. I found the movies under 'Private', as well as the JPG previews and still shots. But I lost my first days of shooting movies (I reformat the card in the device after successful import and backup.)

  Is there a way to tell LR to look in all the directories of the map when importing?

  Jim

  Lightroom CC 2015.6.1

  Camera Raw 9.6

  Sony RX10 III

  -Import directly from map in LR, no other software or cables

  Apple Macbook Pro

  OS X El Capitan 10.11.6

  Thank you Jim for confirmation.

  I did some additional research and can confirm the problem on my end. To reproduce the bug, I set the video format Sony RX10 III to film "XAVC S". In this mode, the Sony camera will the MP4 in the/Private/M4ROOT/CLIP. Unfortunately, Apple Photos nor Lightroom app knows where to look XAVC S videos (in mode "Devices").

  The problem will be fixed in a future update of Lightroom. Thanks for your report.

• How to match my clips to the correct sequence?

  My adobe first pro does not contain presets for dslr, it would nt be a problem for me, as adobe automatically asked for the game to me. Now it don't me more, does anyone know how can I fix?

  Drag and drop the clip on the new icon for the item in the project window.

  BTW - now you know what your DSLR is shooting and can create a corresponding sequence (which you can also save a Custom Preset)

  Its going to be 1080 or 720 I guess.

• EOS Rebel T3i: forced flash?

  I am strongly considering purchasing an EOS Rebel T3i, which will be my first DSLR. She has the ability to flashover, no matter that the lighting conditions? I can see using this fill flash when a subject is backlit and the opening is small.

  Yes, the T3i has a dedicated flash button. When you press the organic pollutants persistent top built-in flash and flash will fire.

• Designation of bodies rebel SL1: AA vs. BA

  Greetings!  I just got my first DSLR, a rebel SL1 and very happy to get into advanced photography!

  Well, actually, I got two SL1s, and since I only need one I will return it.  On the two boxes, I noticed that there is a model number of different bodies.

  One body is listed as 8575B 003 [AA] and the other is 8575B 0003 [BA].  What is the difference?  Now, I wonder if we stock 'B' or if 'BA' represents a revision to the body.

  Someone at - it a preview?

  -SS

  Just different production cycles.

• day 2 old Canon Rebel T5 90% of the time its stuck in mode development in AI .wont take picture

  even when I push down once pushing halfway it just don't stop development and take the picture.especially inside I found this frustrating.it very said as BUSY all the time.
  I tried the other setting, but it does the same thing,

  is this new camera broken? expected

  should I go back to Costco and get another. cannot take pictures at least externally

  Help my first DSLR and so far, I'm very discouraged

  prior was Panasonic LUMIX FZ70 no problem with it

  awilmot2003 wrote:

  even when I push down once pushing halfway it just don't stop development and take the picture.especially inside I found this frustrating.it very said as BUSY all the time.
  I tried the other setting, but it does the same thing,

  is this new camera broken? expected

  should I go back to Costco and get another. cannot take pictures at least externally

  Help my first DSLR and so far, I'm very discouraged

  prior was Panasonic LUMIX FZ70 no problem with it

  Busy is most often caused by a problem of SD card.

  AIservo is supposed to concentrate all the time.

  The mode that you use on the camera?

  What happens in green square mode?

• I have a Canon T3i and when I take pictures in auto mode, all my pictures look a bit washed out.

  If I put my camera in P mode, put the balance of whites in the setting "100", of "disorder" (even in the Sun) ISO Picture style 'landscape', my photos look better, have more color saturation, more to my taste.  Guess my question is, is it possible to make the settings in automatic mode, to achieve the results in my pictures that I receive when you use the Mode "P"?  It seems to be the same for all the goals that I use, although usually use my Canon 18-55mm kit lens.   I took samples of the same scene in a car, then P mode and the difference is dramatic.  Is it possible to change the default settings in Automatic Mode for this problem?  And if not, why Cannon would set the default settings for these poor results?

  Because I gave up on Auto a very long time for the same reasons that you are having problems I don't know whether or not they have improved how it works. IF you get better results in PROGRAM mode (which you can also refine to be of even better results) then I think that it works as expected. I THINK Canon should not give buyers a DSLR the Auto setting. More first-time buyers spend a lot of time to earn the money to buy their first DSLR & think they can ignore learn them to use by choosing the Auto Mode. For me, it's a foolish gesture. Spend 10% of the time that it took to earn money by reading the manual & practicing things, he tries to explain.

  Another thing that can help is to look at a few times

  http://www.canonoutsideofauto.ca/

• Correspondence of the shots on the advice of different cameras

  Hello again world Speedgrade! I'm looking for some advice. I have pictures of a guy who's talking about three different cameras and 3 different angles. There was only a single light. I used blow matcher for cam 1 and cam 2 and that worked pretty well. But I'm fighting with matching cam 3 CAM 1 & 2. Auto game worked fine. So I tried to balance the shot and the same lut. The first LUT is to make the images more closely for a look of newspaper. The second LUT must he STYLIZED, but it always na not get out very comparable. I don't know where to start to make some adjustments. Any suggestions?  R Neil Haugen do you have any advice?

  

  This kind of correspondence can be much more as it seems at first. And Yes, I have a few ideas.

  First, for General shooting match, I would have as well the RGB Parade and the waveform high Luma visible with the vectorscope.

  ... Face and the right are both pretty close, have the subject as pretty good size and the rest is book-cases and books, which are fairly consistent between shots in addition to your lighting is more than the right, so the topic is more a contrast/brightness/level range. The left photographed... clearly the cam3 you are referring to... is contagious on the side of the shadow of a much smaller topic, so the black much more generic this topic for the hit, and the shelves are pretty similar... but... you also have the white brilliant bit of upper wall, more large one-piece "brilliant" in the image and then the door and other. Very different, not easy items to shot-match automatically.

  To really match it, you will have to look at who is the most technically demanding fair grade... which is clearly cam 3. You have to first make a product... and treat this as basically a match two-shot, cam, cam1/2 and 3.

  Download cam3 fine... especially dark colors & brights controlled with contrast enough to the Middle middle/low so your subject stands out own. On my monitor cam3 seems to have a titch less showing yellow & magenta, cyan more cam1/2. It is in part, because the color of the top right and right seems to be slightly light to your subject and shelves. You will probably have to hide half or so with a feather that goes right to halfway and the left edge and clean this cyan drift. In fact, if you do that, and maybe move the luma to say 10-30 on the Parade from left field to intensify a bit, you'll probably go a LONG way to get this handled.

  This would make it much easier then correspond to 1/2 with it.

  Neil