Flash triggers

Similar Questions

• How can I disable the outdated plugin warning? My Flash is as new as my computer allows.

  My plugin obsolete Flash triggers this annoying warning. I can't update the latest version of the Flash plugin because my MAC isn't an Intel version.

  I want the «some plugins on the page are obsolete...» "Warning to stop.

  Without turn my Flash off.

  If you type "subject: config" into your address bar, (without the quotation marks), press ENTER, accept the warning and then look for the plugins.hide_infobar_for_outdated_plugin, you should see a value appears in the window. Double-click on it to set it to True.

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• I can trigger a flash remotely from the EOS Utility?

  Hello. I am a total newbie, so forgive me if my question is very basic or confused.

  I just bought a Rebel T5i (literally, my first ever buy SLR) and have been using the EOS utility to be able to "live view" on my desktop screen. It seems to work pretty well.

  However, I am interested with the addition of a flash remotely as a Speedlite flash, to be placed between the subject and background. Will be a remote flash correctly from live view EOS Utility work? Should it be a Speedlite flash, or can it be a third flash?

  I'm not too considered with flash quality as much as I just want to be able to take pictures with the EOS Utility live view, with the remote flash fires to light a backdrop behind the subject.

  Thank you!

  As Ernie points out... the computer simply tells the camera when taking the shot.  If the camera has a flash, then the camera fires the flash when he takes this one.

  But your question is loaded with some nuances and it is not just a direct response.

  A Canon T5i has the ability to fire distance a Canon speedlite if three conditions are met:

  (1) the flash must support E - TTL

  (2) the flash must support E - TTL mode 'slave' (and that the mode must be enabled - it will not be enabled by default.)

  (3) flash must be direct "corridor" between the camera and remotely.

  The camera itself needs to be said that it is in a mode where the flash pop up on the device will work as a 'master' to trigger a remote flash.

  But you mentioned that you wanted to put this flash to distance between a subject and the context - which implies that 'line of sight' is not possible.  Who calls other WIRING.

  You can learn a lot about flash systems Canon E - TTL of the "Manual of the Speedlighter" (by Syl Arena), but this book has not been updated (as far as I know) to include systems flash triggered by Canon's new radio.

  To do this with the Canon gear, you want a transmitter of radio ST-E3-RT (which amounts to the hoof as a flash camera) and then use a flash Canon Speedlight with a suffix 'RT' such as flash 600EX-RT (flash light) or the new 430EX III - RT.  All products of "RT" communicate by radio and do not require a line of sight direct.

  It is also possible to do with budget gear..., you can get a pair of transceivers trigger... we're going on the device and the other goes hand in hand with the remote flash.  These radio triggers are not "E - TTL", which means that the camera and the flash will not be able to communicate and negotiate the amount of energy must be used for shooting "on the fly" (as can an E - TTL flash).  This means that you will need to manually set the power level you want to use.

  Having to use manual flash should not be terribly difficult to learn.  The flash and the camera usually automatically set your power level, as it would for E - TTL flashes.  You control the light, by adjusting the power level of the flash (manually) or by moving the flash closer or away from your topic (or using the flash light modifiers) more, or by adjusting the opening of the camera.

  This works well in a situation of type 'studio', where you can control the power settings.  But for photography of the 'event' where you have to shoot on-the-fly and you "-over" If rush you the shot, you have to learn the flash behavior before the shooting. For me, it means creating a table which indicates (for any given on the flash power level) f-stop, should I use any flash-to-subject distance given.  I used usually non-zooms at this time, but I knew that, for example, a shot of 'dance' a couple of size - up to (what we call a "half coup" because we have only half upper body of our subject) was f/16 at ISO 100.  A length of 3/4 shot (essentially from the knees upwards) was f/11.  A shot of 'length' was f/8, and a group shot can be f/5.6 or even f/4.

  It necessary to the good days past tests and completing such a table.  You won't have the time to refer to such a table, but I mentally memorized by distance because the subject framing was a good consistent indicator of distance.  (it is a bit more complicated with zooms because you can change the subject framing without changing the distance).   But in the end, you find yourself in a situation where you go back to a subject at a demonstration, the frame of the shooting, set the aperture value and capture the image and know that you nailed the exposure even if the whole system is manual.

  There are a lot of tutorials on the use of the manual of flash and inexpensive triggers to the Strobist blog (strobist.blogspot.com).

  I use the Canon system.  I use the Canon ST-E3-RT trigger a few flashes 600EX-RT.  The system is rock solid... it always works.

• Sony a99 and flashes wireless

  I bought a second one for flash my a99 recently in hopes of using 2 flashes in mode without wire - but, unfortunately, it doesn't seem to work (or maybe I'm doing somehting wrong)

  I have f56 and Sony f42. F56 is set in wireless mode (the Red led blinks) and my f42 lies on the camera (connected through the adapter) and it is also set in wireless menu mode (Fn key). Tried to change these 2 flashes autour but one that is not connected to the camera never fires.

  Any ideas on what I might hurt?

  This is what I understand of these cards, wireless remote control, no trigger.

  In the note, they say that they require the F58 F43, models.
  They are the new models that provide wireless (trigger) controllers

  http://photo-tips-online.com/news/2011/Sony-HVL-f43am-Flash-vs-Sony-HVL-f42am-Flash/
  As he mentions here, the F42 cannot be a *, so that even if the F56 had the function of wireless control, the F42 doesn't have the remote function to use.

  But from the charts, I'm sure that the F56 isn't a wireless trigger - but I could be wrong.

  However, even if it is possible, even once, the F42 hate.

  If your only option is to have the main flash triggering the other flash via flash. If I remember correctly, is that optical trigger - based on another source of light flash to be triggered.

  Then put the second flash * mode and the main firearms with the camera.

  If you plan to have two cameras off camera, you will need to use a separate radio trigger, so you can wireless trigger for both.

• External flash for wireless on the A77 operation and A700

  I have a DSLR Sony A-77 and another (former) A-700. I shoot in a studio with 2 flashes Sony wireless and manual way. The internal flash triggers the external flashes that are placed on the floor or on tripods, one on each side. Now, I want to add a third speed light mainly for the backlight. I was told to buy a used Minolta Flash (to save costs). I don't know what Flash will work the way I need to work.
  Which is compatible with my camera?
  I'll be able to use manually, wireless, as internal third triggered flash to flash my cameras?

  Is it possible to find a used or a new one at a lower cost?
  Thanks in advance for your attention.
  Nuki

  Unfortunately, we have not tested the compatibility of third party brand with our cameras and we can not guarantee full functionality. However, any flash unit that can be optically triggered should be able to operate as a slave flash.

• If the server is down

  Hello.
  I m developing a game.

  There many variables URLLoaders thereon.

  I m adding an IOErrorEvent listener for each of them.

  I´d I just wanted to know:

  For example, if I-m the game, then

  I ask (I call a Flash php file that will send or get information from a database).

  What happens if the server is down right now?

  What is going on?

  Flash triggers an IOErrorEvent?

  Thank you

  @Lee: ' why not try to use a url that does not exist and see what happens...» »

  There are major differences between the nonexistent files on the server/domain valid and not valid domains - non-existent servers.

  @marcelozepgames:

  In both cases, IO_ERROR will return error #2032 error of flow. However, if monitor you HTTP_STATUS - you will notice the difference in status. Most likely, if the server is down (or not valid server) - status will be 0. In the case of the invalid url on the valid server - it will be 404.

  In any case-, it is not difficult to check it out on your own server local tilt head on a stop.

• Animations Flash of DPS are triggered too early...

  Hello..

  I'm building a small "DPS-brochure" in InDesign, use of the Foilo generator.

  I've done a few animations-flash (web-content-overlays), which are auto-déclenchées when you enter a page.

  Everything works fine, except for one small - but important: part.

  The first animation on page 1 film works very well. But when drag page 2, animation shild is already triggered... Sliding fast back to page one and then quickly to page 2, I can see the last part of the animation... It seems that the animation of triggers Animation 1 2...

  The strange thing is that when you place an article without animation, between the two, everything works a charm...

  Do you have ideas of how to solve the problem...?

  All animations must be set to play with a second delai.125.

• 5 d MkIII. D 5 triggers flash or inconsistent shutter static onstage.

  Test my new ABF-800 flash with my 5 D MkIII. Settings of 5 d on M, sync flash by power cord. The 5 d arbitrarily decides to trigger the shutter & flash or not and even trigger not shutter at certain times, with no changes in the scene. Any ideas of what's going on?

  On a 5 d III, you can replace a large number of stuf you can't control on other boxes.  But in general... If the camera is in One Shot mode and AF is enabled on the lens, then the camera will NOT take the shot until it can confirm that it was able to lock focus at least one area of focus.

  If a dedicated Canon flash flash was in the shoe, the AF assistance light beam is (once again... by default but it can be disabled) to help the development of camera (it casts a light distribution on the subject that the camera can easily block on and focus.)

  Since you have a 5 d III (so those who might be reading this who do not have this same camera body - ignore this, because your camera will not have this definition) follow these steps:

  Press Menu

  Go to magenta 'AF' tab page 3 (there are 5 subpages in the AF section... you want to the 3e)

  Navigate down to select which reads "One-shot AF release prior." (it's the release priority setting), then press the Set"" button.

  It will show two options... 'Libération' and 'Focus' - change to 'Release' and press the 'Set' button (and whatever you do... DO NOT FORGET THAT YOU CHANGE this or you you'll regret later.)

  What you have done is changed the camera to "Priority Focus" to "release shutter priority.  Here's what this means:

  Normally, when you're in one-shot mode (and most Canon bodies work this way), the camera is in mode 'Put priority to the point'.  That means that when press you the shutter button completely to take a picture, the unit computer photo says that the most important factor is to ensure that the image is FOCUSED... BEFORE the shooting.  The camera takes really the shot by the time the shutter button is pressed completely - he waits until it can confirm that it has locked focus at least one area of focus.  In a lot of light, this all happens very quickly.   However... If the camera cannot lock focus at all (lack of contrast, not enough light), no beam for accent-assistance to the rescue, etc. etc. then it will actually refuse to take the picture... it'll be like the unit is defective (it isn't... it did what it said to do that is not take a picture until it can confirm the first update.)

  When a Canon camera's AI Servo (other agencies Canon - not your 5 d III) mode, the camera is changed to "release priority".  It means that the computer in the camera is said to take the picture as soon as you press the shutter button... COMPLETELY and it will, if it was over the focus or not (and it is VERY important that remember you that.)  In this mode it is yours for only half-press (or if you have reassigned the button of the development of a "back" button) to ensure the update is completely before pressing the button completely.  There are reasons why you would like a camera behaves this way - often in a situation you may have worn before the camera anticipating the action and the most important is to take the picture at this "decisive moment."

  On your 5 d III, you can actually change the priority of the release shutter or developed by the settings in menu and it will work regardless of whether the device is in "One Shot" vs mode "HAVE Focus".

  But do not forget that you changed it... or the next time you're out somehwere and fully press the button, you'll end up with blurry photos because the camera will think that you just decided to skip the update because you knew what you were doing (and which can be annoying when you come back with a whole bunch of soft hits.)

• Does Canon 70 d has a bulit in triggering the flash! Or I need a third device!

  Hello. Well, I turned off the camera speedligt but I could not do proud without having built in flash on. What happens if I want to use the camera light speed without one on the camera. as I know that canon has a bilut regier and I did not need third party peripheral!
  Thank you

  The firing the flash using the flash on the camera and it is optical. You can 'turn off' the flash to use only the flash off camera, but the on-camera flash should always be raised.

  It will fire a pre-Flash, while the shutter of the camera is always closed to assess the light (if you use E - TTL instead of manual) and also to send instructions to the camera flash (again, for the E - TTL... but also to tell the off camera flash when fire.). The calendar has a fractional period. Then he tells flash off camera to fire trees, opens the shutter, then the detached flash (and only the off-camera flash), then the shutter closes.

  This all happens VERY quickly and you'd swear two flashes fired at the same time - when in fact the on-camera flash fires when the shutter is closed, and the detached flash fired his last shot when the shutter is open.

  To do this, you will need to go into your control the flash menu and tell him to 'disable' the on-camera flash. Disabling does not mean that the flash get used... It simply means that it does not at this final moment when the shutter is actually open.

  Also note that, because it using visible light (no IR) to convey instructions, detached flash sensor must have line-of-sight to the on-camera flash. If it is a flash like the Canon 430EX II Flash speedlite, the sensor is in the lower part of the Flash. This means that you may need to rotate the lower part of the flash to face the camera, then rotate the flash head to send the light where you need it. If the lower unit, simply is facing toward the front you will find that it is less reliable (especially on the longer distances or outdoors).

• key listeners triggering tools of the IDE Flash rather than the SWF events

  During the test the animation in the Flash CS3 authoring environment, some keys are being imprisoned by iteself Flash and not go my SWF. It is those who are assigned to tools like S (Inkwell), K (paint bucket), P (Pen), etc. The Test SWF movie is the active window and I clicked that it contains. Why my keys are getting trapped by Flash and not the SWF? Keys which are not assigned to tools work properly in my SWF file.
  
  Any help much appreciated. Attached code snippets.
  
  SB

  Never mind... Menu to test the animation-> disable keyboard shortcuts did the trick.

• video triggering flash animation

  Hello
  
  I am creating a website where my client wants a Flash animation to start as soon as its video playback ends. The video really needs to listen. It is too large to incorporate. So far, I've tried a timer integrating the video just to see how many images it is and then placing the film on the number of the frame of the time line using rather than embedded streaming video. In both cases, the Flash animation are not always systematically start when I want to start. I don't know if, by nature, the movie streaming has a variety of images per second, or if I'll be really stupid my approach.
  
  This make sense to anyone and is there a way to make this work? I've been looking Flash books and scouring the web and have yet to find something that works for me.
  
  I use Flash 8.

  Try:

• Measure the intensity of the flash using a photodiode

  Hello world

  I want to measure the intensity of the flash of my flash lamp using a photodiode.

  Maximum repeat of the lamp flash rate is 500 Hz, the duration of the pulse ~ 2 µs.

  Right now I use a card counters/timers PCI-6602, so I have to buy new material (max $ 2000) in any case.

  The precision should be as high as possible because the signal is used to normalize the flash fluctuations in my measurement.

  I don't know what hardware meets my needs (USB-6009, NI PCIe-6351,...) because there are so many options.

  Any recommendations?

  Thank you!

  Johannes

  Johannes,

  Yes. Additional information has been very useful.

  1. you can consider a tube set, as opposed to a photodiode.  Who spends the majority of your budget here rather than on the acquisition daq hardware but can give you better optical performance. PMT can be very sensitive (responses of single photon), fast and low noise.

  2 and 3. For an area under the curve as, I would consider a high speed Integrator (OPAMP fast with return of capacitor).  The output is a voltage proportional to the area under the curve.  Because you must read at 500 Hz, a relatively slow and cheaper DAQ hardware could be used. You must also reset the Integrator after each reading.

  Consider the comparison between direct scanning of the curves in your image to the Integrator, I proposed:

  A digitizer to 10 MHz capture 3 or 4 samples non-zero on the closer peaks and probably no sample in the upper part of the pulse.  Thus, the calculated surface might have significant errors. Certainly greater than your target < 0.1%.="" faster="" digitizers="" with=""> = 12 bits of resolution (required for accuracy) are very expensive.

  Op amp Integrator costs ~ 10 US $.  The other required components that would increase slightly. Even if you were to buy a power supply and an enclosure for the Integrator, the cost could be< $200-300="" us.=""  the="" sampling="" rate="" of="" the="" a/d="" conversion="" is="" ~="" 500="" hz.=""  ="" even="" a="" usb-6008=""><$200 us)="" is="" fast="" enough,="" although="" its="" triggering="" and="" accuracy="" may="" not="" be="" good="" enough="" for="" your="" application.="" certainly="" there="" are="" several="" devices="" in="" the="">< $1000="" us="" range="" which="" are="" more="" than="">

  4. stay with the 6602 for measurements of frequency and generation of calendar. It works well, has an impressive track record and you already have it. Add the input device a adapted analog and you should be ready.

  I don't want to make this sound too simplistic, because it isn't. What you're trying to measure requires some effort and a few precautions to ensure that you get significant results.  For example the discharge that powers the lamp flash can produce powerful electrical transient signals.  These could be much larger than the photodiode/PMT outputs and they occur simultaneously.  Preventing transient corrupt measures may require a substantial amount of test and design.

  Lynn

• USB Flash Drive 16 GB protected v210w against writing YET

  Good evening

  Yet once, my 16 GB v210w to is write-protected.

  Same problem with respect to the lisbon_lion67 and soma8914.

  The problem appeared after I formatted FAT32 on my Mac.

  I tried to format it on XP with many USB disk utilities, but always sector is supposed to be = 0 and an error is triggered.

  Is this Mac compatible flash drive?

  How to change? My dealer made a change, but its policy does not change the 2nd.

  Best regards

  Hello!

• Black wired xbox 360 controller for windows flashes and freezes games

  I installed the xbox 360 accessories 1.2, I plugged my black Xbox 360 wired controller for windows on the computer. I let it install its drivers. The ring of light continues to blink all the time, no matter how many times I have uninstalled and reinstalled the program and drivers, it continues to Flash, I even looked for updates for the drivers. When I start a game it also works very well unless I have pull triggers or go at my card or try to pick a lock. (the game is skyrim) It freezes whenever I have try them and I unplug the controller and it thaws and if I plug it back in, it does the same thing again. I tested the controller on a real xbox 360 (works fine), but it doesn't seem to work on my pc. Any help please, but serious answers only.

  Hello

  You will get help on the Forums XBox so - much to use them there.

  Microsoft Hardware - games
  http://www.Microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/gaming

  XBox 360 wired controller - Support - see 'Need help?' on the right side of the page
  http://www.Microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/p/Xbox-360-controller-for-Windows/52A-00004#support

  Rob - SpiritX