Is HP 02 Light Magenta HP 02 Light Cyan being abandoned?

Similar Questions

• Shadows of text of a central light source

  G ' Day, im using elements 6 to put text over a picture. The photo is a typical sunset/Sunrise Beach shot. I divided the text into 3 text boxes that are: above the Sun (in the sky), directly above the horizon Sun and under the Sun (water and sand).

  Im trying to achieve exact drop shadow and bevel direction regarding the Sun (shade of sky above the text layer text), no shadow on the horizon and the shadow under the text in the layer of water or sand to give the appearance of the light source being at the Center, where the Sun is. My problem is that I can't adjust the direction of the light source in each text box individually. Each text box is obviously his own layer, but if I set one of the directions of light source on a single layer, it forces the other layers 2 text into conformity with the same direction.

  Can anyone help? Thank you

  Hello

  It's a global game lighting. Double click on the the f in the layers palette and uncheck the box that says "Global light. It is enabled by default. The dialog box resembles that of #10 of the elements tutorial step.

  http://graphicreporter.com/tutorials/elements_shapeframe.html

  This for each of the text layers that you do not want a global light is taken into account.

  If this does not produce the desired results, you can do it manually.

  Control, click on the thumbnail of the text in the layers palette to display the text selection (I think that order click on a Mac). Then, create a new empty layer under the text. Fill the selection with the color of the shadow that you want. Blurred using Gaussian to soften the shadows, then use the command free transform to deform the shade in place. Finally, reduce the opacity of the shadow layer to your liking.

  Optional: change the blending mode of the shadow layer to multiply.

  Optional: the shadow layers can also be moved with the displacement filter. (Prepare a file for use with the filter of deformation. How to: Make a copy of image without text. He Desaturate. Apply a bit of Gaussian blur to soften the image... which allows shadow bend as opposed to be decided by the filter of deformation. Save image with a unique name in PSD format on your desktop, so you can find it. (The image should be in PSD format or the filter cannot use it).  This file allows to deform your text. (I usually use a value of 3; 3.)

• HP Business Inkjet 1100dtn first would not print at all, now prints black and magenta and cyan

  Hello world.

  First of all I must say I spent most of the night reading the posts here, especially this one:

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/other-printing-questions/HP-Photosmart-C7280-black-ink-won-t-print/TD-p...

  I find that a lot of people are frustrated, but I also find that a lot of people go a long way to help, which is nice. :-)

  I bought a HP Business Inkjet 1100 DTN in 2004 or more and was extremely (!) satisfied with it. This is the best printer I've ever owned when it comes to value for money and durability. However, he was put away for a few years and a friend played with it to make it work. I think also, it has removed the print head and cartridges for awhile. This could possibly make the printheads, ink near the connectors and not dry out the cartridges?

  Anyway, I got home yesterday, and the first think I did was soak the print head in warm water. I don't even bother try everything first. Also, I cleaned up the two electrical contacts for the print heads inside the printer and the print heads themselves. Finally, I used a dozen q-tips to clean ink residues near the two connectors for the cartridges and print heads.

  After all this, I went for a clean full from Windows. The first testpage (power while pressing X on the printer dock) came out as expected... terrible. No black, not yellow, almost no cyan and some magenta.

  I repeated soaking in hot water, only hotter this time (boucherit filled with water in the dish, then dip the lowest 3-4mm of each print head). Each of them sunk ink when I stirred the water so I was optimistic. Yet once, I ran a full cleaning of Windows and print a testpage (hold power while pressing X on the printer)

  Much better this time.

  Now, I had about 50% yellow, which should have been there, 70% cyan, magenta to 90% and the text on the upper part was mostly black. Magenta has helped fill in some places where black does not.

  However, right after cleaning with water or alcohol, it prints fine for maybe 1 testpage, then it is worse. Also I noticed that the black ink is very sticky, so I think he skipped over the years. I know that I can just buy a new set of ink, to make the power contained in the cartridges heads line and heads are full of old and thick ink. Even with heads printing, no need to buy new ones since the supply line is full of old and thick ink.

  I also noticed that the supply line for the cartridges printheads have air bubbles in them. I see bubbles in the yellow and magenta lines, but the cyan and black are too dark to see. I guess that's a problem? I read that energetic cleaning combined with print between the two may over time to solve this problem, but I have to say that I did the cleanings at least 25 tonight and the bubbles are more or less on the same place. (I also notice some bubbles and marked their position). They move when the pump in the cartridges are being exploited, but coming back to the same place after. Almost as if the printheads does not accept ink, are blocked or have internal pressure which must be ventilated. (?)

  So I guess I have to get a kanyle (not sure of the English word), remove the ink cartridge to suck little ink, and then remove the print head and inject the ink, I took the cartridge it is until the power line is free of bubbles also good and old ink. Then replace the cartridge and the head.

  Am I mistaken or I think much too advanced?

  Here are some of the testprints in the correct order. There are many others, but I downloaded the most important.

  

  

  

  

  Note that yellow was there at the beginning, so also was the cyan. Now they are both almost gone again. I suspect than that to have something to do with air bubbles? I'm not sure. Magenta seems to be the only color as well. : PEI

  I also tried the tip to the subject of bumping the cartridge (I did the same thing with the print heads) with no noticeable improvement. Also, I cleaned the rubber gasket on the black cartridge with a paperclip. Of course, he came out with ink, but it was sticky.

  Please answer because I would really get this printer up and running again. :-)

  Ben of the Norway.

  Hi again. Sorry for double posting, but I thought it deserved a post of its own.

  After having tried everything last night (I worked at least 8 to 10 hours on the * beep * printer) I got so sick so I just took all the print heads and tempered 5mm lower them (side of the printhead) in hot water and let it just sit there for 2-3 hours. I had forgot about them when I went to bed. I cut them a bit and inserted into the printer, rand a clean and printed this:

  

  The yellow one is still a little with rays, I guess that some nozzles are always blocked, but at least now I know the formidable powers of the hot water. :-)

  Ben of the Norway.

• DeskJet 5500 prints color cartridge 57 but your gray of the 58 photo color cartridge

  My deskjet 5550 is supposed to print color photo with the 58 cartridge inserted into the cartridge slot 2. It has suddenly stopped making and now print only the dull grey tone. I replaced the cartridge with a new one and got the same result. Print the same file using the 57 cartridge to slot 1 still gives the color. Replacing the driver produces no change. I'm on a Mac and I'm printing from iPhoto. Having checked that no filter is in use. Any ideas, what could be wrong and how to fix it?  Thank you.

  The cartrdiges 57 and 58 are necessary all to print the photo. The 57 a Cyan, Magenta and yellow. The 58A Photo Black, Light Magenta and Light Cyan. The printer can print photos with the 57 by itself, but the 58 by itself will not be able to print grayscale because there no yellow. In photo printing normal both cartridges are used together, the 57 provides vivid colors and the 58 provides subtle shades and black areas. When you print on plain paper 56 cartridge replaces the 58. The 56 was ink black pigment which is good for text but not used on photographic support. Regards, Bob Headrick, MS MVP printing and imaging

• Message from the printer

  I have a HP Photosmart Pro B9180.  The machine tells me to replace the following faulty print head: Light Magenta and Light Cyan.  After installing new cartridges twice, we always get the same message.  Anyone know what I can do to get this message go away, so I can print?  Two different things, is the print head and ink cartridge?  Thank you.

  I'm sorry you have a problem with the printhead error message.

  YES, ink cartridges and printheads are TWO DIFFERENT items. Here is a manual that you can check.

  http://h10032.www1.HP.com/CTG/manual/c00753528.PDF

  Page36-39 will show you what are the print heads. You can try to clean it with water and lint and see if that makes a difference.

  'Click on the WHITE STAR if you want to say thank YOU"'

• B9180: B9180 printing problems

  Hello... I have a HP Photosmart Pro B9180, I use with Mac OS 10.9.5

  Everything was fine until recently printing.  I had not printed anything for a week or two. The printer was left, performing his daily, cleaning cycle.

  Then, when I was printing some photos from Lightroom, I noticed the upper left corner of each photo (with multiple photos on a page, each chaque photo photo exposed this) began with a small white block, which has transformed little by little solid. A bit like a gradient.

  When I ran the nozzle check, there were a few problems print quality in black text, and several blocks of color had the same white-> gradient of solid in them, only in the first "band".  The blocks of color affected were the first block (cyan), third (red/magenta) block, seventh block (cyan), ninth (magenta) block and 11 (black) block.  On the second row of blocks, the first three blocks all had the gradient in the upper band.

  After the execution of the printhead, routine cleaning the number maximum (seven) sometimes, things were worse. Black text was unreadable, gray and light gray (first two) tranches on the second line were practically invisible.

  The print heads are reported in "good" condition. No indication of low-ink will appear.

  Can you help me?

  Thank you!

  -Eric

  Thanks for your reply...

  I don't know if that would work, since I tried an old watch that did the trick:

  (1) turn off the printer

  (2) unplug the printer for about a minute

  (3) plug the printer back to the

  (4) re - turn on printer

  After that, everything was fine. Not sure why the printer itself would enter into this State, but a complete reset seems to have done the trick. Your suggestions can be simply part of the restart process that could do the same thing. I will remember that if this happens again.

  Thanks again!

  -Eric

• Photosmart Pro B9180: Exhausted ink with new cartridge message

  I had 2 showing depleted, inks Light Cyan and Magenta, so I replaced them both.  After a bit of memorization and re - insert, I managed finally to get the LC to be accepted, but kept showing Magenta empty ink Replace cartridge. Finally I managed to get the printer to accept the cartridge by removing the yellow and magenta and the closing door ink cartridge so this printer it has advised both cartridges where either missing or damaged. I then re inserted the Magenta cartridge and closed the door and waited for the error message about the yellow show and then re-inserted cartridge yellow. The printer then went to the ready state. Hurrah! After a print test sheet and a couple of head cleans and then some photos on plain paper I tried to print on photo paper. At half way through printing the machine stopped and threw the message for the Magenta cartridge is exhausted. I cheated once again the printer twice to remove the yellow and magenta cartridge and put back as before. It has managed to get at the end of printing, which indicated that the heads remain a pure which I proceeded to do. Unfortunately the printer cannot again print throwing up the message that the Magenta cartridge was exhausted and needed replacement.

  After doing a lot of research online, it seems it is a common problem, but what I failed to find are solutions even on the HP forum.

  Is this a problem with the cartridge having questionable chips? Is this a problem with the printer, chiefs or general design?

  I really need an answer that will prevent me from buying inks Dungeon I am wasting money. I have tried all resets as described in other posts here. Unfortunately once the exhausted ink message nothing different pose can be done as the printer all crashes.

  Does anyone have a solution to this problem?

  Hello Jabzi,

  an update on printer problems. Following your last message, that the printer has again stopped work while I followed your advice and tell me the magenta was exhausted that I knew, that it could not be. In any case, I decided that the cartridge must be defective, so I ordered a new one. The next day, waiting to get to the printer, I let on, ran his daily routine of maintenance and the problem corrected itself, is great. I ran a few prints which still showed heavy bands/bad colors, so I ran routines cleaning and alignment that has made the problem worse. What I noticed, is that the banding seemed to be linked to black ink and there are large gaps in the text. I changed the black photo that has been reading about 25% full I had read a similar post where someone had problems with a low black cartridge. I also pulled the print heads and thouroghly them cleaned manually. The two black print heads showed signs of ink muddy accumulate but color heads everything looked very clean. After cleaning and reinserting the heads the printer ran his routine alingment and produces best alignment prints that I had. I then printed the test page, was also excellent showing no missing text and three print heads that fell in fair condition were now show as good. Since then I've produced great prints.

  That I summise from all this is that the problems seem to have stems printheads being blocked preventing ink flow and giving messages erroneous re cartridges is exhausted. Everything that was probably due to the printer being unused and left off for an extended period. Once the heads had been cleaned and enough ink has flowed to purge the ink heads has been lying in it for a period the printer was able to function properly.  At least I now have a spare cartridge magenta on-site as well as a printer to work.

  I hope it's useful to anyone having similar problems.

  Thanks for your help

  Concerning

  Alan

• Designated replacement cartridge Deskjet 6840 does not fit

  My cartridge three-color HP Deskjet 6840 #97 on ink was insufficient. I tried to replace it with a #99 Photo. He did not fit into the slot, that I had removed the #97. It turns out that there is a ridge on the top of the #97 which is shifted to the right of the axis of the cartridge. The #99 has a ridge that is offset to the left of the central axis and interferes with a piece for the printer and thus, it can accommodate so not entirely (installation). The manual indicates that the Tri-Color #95 or 97 #, color #99 and #100 grey all work in the 6840.  Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get the #99 knitting (other that cannibalize the cartridge or the printer)?

  Note: I have 4 cartridges #99, I intend to use for photo printing and this can be a problem for big $.

  The 99 cartridge actually goes into the black cartridge slot. The 97 and 99 are free cartridges because the 99 adds three additional colors (light cyan, light magenta and black in the photo).

• 1320c streaks on the left flank, even after replacing PHD

  I have a DELL 1320c color laser printer about 2-3 years. A month or two ago it started printing the colours black and cyan light on the left side of the page.  A trail of light about 2 inches of width. Magenta is also a little lighter in the same place, but not as bad as black or cyan, which are very obvious. Yellow seems unaffected.

  I read the online help of DELL for the printer and he said this issue was most likely due to a printhead device worn and that they should replace all 20,000 copies. Then I ordered in a new PhD and successor scrupulously the instructions.  But the question remains the same! Even with a brand new doctorate it prints black and light cyan for the left 2 inches from top to bottom on the page, exactly like the old doctor.  PhD cost me only less than the price of a new printer!

  I also tried to replace with new toner cartridges. Still no change.  The toner will not rub off, so I don't see what is a fuser issue.

  Anyone has any ideas on what could cause this problem?  The help documentation is not any other possible causes.

  This mode of failure is unfortunately too often to go without explanation. The solution is actually quite easy (but complex) if it's not an oxymoron. The Dell 1320c is the licensed version of the Xerox Phaser 6125/6130 printer (who also suffers from the same disease). It's really a shame, since the printers do a great job of printing color accurate. IMO, the Xerox is better than the Dell. This is determined by the machine firmware and drivers, as printers are mechanically identical.

  The cause of the problem is the nipples of spring for K of waste and feed toner. On some machines, toner cartridges and some developers of K, the coupling between the nipples on the K and K toner cartridge developer becomes poor. Most often, you replace the toner cartridge K, the risk that this situation occurs. When the K toner is locked in place, the insulating foam on the front is supposed to surround and seal, the nipples on the developer of K. This is the path of the power/exit for toner K to/from the developer. When the seal fails, excess toner K can begin slowly to the 'dust' the vertical wall that you see when the PhD is removed. The same is true for the other tonics, but because they are progressively lower, they have fewer adverse effects.

  Behind this wall is (LSU) laser scanning unit. So that the "dusting" toner K continues, it can easily drift past the lenses that you see when you remove the doctorate. Toner settles on the LSU reflective mirrors (usually 1 or 2 in particular due to their orientation). As this drift toner continues to accumulate on the mirror reflective (s), it begins finally to block the laser beam to achieve OPC PHD drums. The result is a printed page with vertical columns of faded print (as shown in the photos posted earlier). Faded columns can be any width, depending on how much the reflecting mirror is contaminated. Because of the way that the reflective mirrors are arranged from LSU, black and cyan images are most often affected. The inside surface of the lens can also be sprinkled toner compartment and is cleaned in the same way. Cleaning the inside surface of the lens is usually optional because toner dust on the mirror (s) is usually the main cause of the faded print.

  The repair requires a dozen cotton qtips. Qtips with a rod of paper are preferable for this task, you will not want to distort the Publix in terms of access to the mirror or the surface of the inner lens. Store the handy default color solid surface test pages. The lenses are the entire width of the page. Mirrors are about 3/4 of the width of the page. The pages of default may be brought against the lens to indicate precisely where the surfaces have been coated with toner. Just remember that the side LEFT of the printed page is on the RIGHT of the USJ.

  Use the NEW qtips, directly from the package. Do NOT contaminate the cotton Publix with body oil, dust or liquid. Do ONLY 1 soft passes with the Publix on the affected mirror or lens, remove the Publix carefully and turn the Publix or use a new Publix before making another pass. If you make more than 1 pass with a contaminated Publix, you WILL just get DIRTY the reflecting mirror or lens with the toner!

  This operation MUST be performed with the box of LSU in front of you, it CAN be done without removing the printer LSU. USJ is a box, about 9 "x 9"x 5". It has a guide down rod which he locates in the printer. Having some at USJ 1 "thick foam will help stabilize it as you clean the mirrors. With USJ deleted, you need to remove his hood before which surrounds 4 cups. This cover just snaps on or out of the LSU through 4 locking tabs (2 on top) and 2 down. With the front cover, you have access to all the reflective mirrors and lenses. Make sure you just don't not one any part USJ to impact because the mirrors are aligned precisely. Just use common sense and caution.

  To remove the LSU time-consuming disassembly. I'm not going to explain these details. If the corrective procedure did you not flee, you should be mechanically inclined enough to find a way to remove the USJ. The only thing that requires more disassembly is the replacement of the power supply voltage.

  You want a screwdriver blade and phillips and needles slender beak. You have about three dozen screws to follow.

  Here are the steps in General:

  1. remove the top, side and back skins. Remove the fuse and the doctorate. Wrap the doctorate with a blanket or a black garbage bag to protect the CSPs.

  2 remove the i/o Board container (and updates fallow) after disconnecting all the internal its wiring plugs.

  3. you will need to loosen or remove certain media that supports some of the internal cables.

  4. remove all connectors LVPS then remove the card LVPS and tray on the top/back support (and set aside). You will need to strip the power wires of merger between the LVPS and the power connector of the fuser. You will probably need to remove the fan to remove the LVPS.

  LVPS and tray removed, you can look down on the LSU.

  5. the USJ is held in the printer by 2 Spring clips at the top (1 on each side, 2 screws each). These clips based on a 1/2 "steel pins that pinpoint the USJ. Remove the screws and clips and use steel pins to carefully lift the LSU out of the printer. Careful attention to the cable on the side, which connects the USJ to the controller card.

  6. after cleaning, reinstall everything in the order reverses. There is no mechanical alignment of the necessary LSU.

  -------

  ---

  The lower part of the image above reflects the positions of the mirrors and lenses. The Center more mirror (C & K) is more inclined to dusting because of his position, but your impressions of color sample will not indicate which surfaces need cleaning.

• printer large format

  We recently purchased a printer large format, the Z6600 and it came with a Cyan ink cartridge. I'm having a hard time finding a replacement of the cyan cartridge. I don't see Light Cyan for the purchase of supplies.

  Hello Advertisingblue,

  I referenced the user for the printer HP Designjet Z6600 Production guide and found the following list of cartridges:

  HP 773 has 775 ml black matte of Designjet cartridge C1Q21A ink

  HP 773 has 775 ml of ink Designjet Magenta cartridge C1Q23A

  HP 773 has 775 ml of ink Designjet yellow cartridge C1Q24A

  HP 773 has 775 ml of ink Designjet Cyan cartridge C1Q26A

  HP 773 has 775 ml Photo C1Q27A Designjet black ink cartridge

  HP 773 has 775 ml of ink Designjet gray cartridge C1Q28A

  For the cartridge Cyan (C1Q26A), I found the following reference to the command:

  http://WWW8.HP.com/us/en/products/OAS/product-detail.html?OID=6670188&JumpID=reg_r1002_usen_c-002_title_r0001#! tab features =

  I hope this helps.

  Kind regards
  Lynn_B

• HP deskjet f380 prob

  I just bought a new photo cartridge to print photos, but the printer is still pulling in my color instead of the photo cartridge cartridge ink I am doing wrong?

  The 58 photo cartridge has light cyan, light magenta and black photo colors.  The 22 color cartridge has cyan, magenta and yellow.  To print a photo, you must be a color cartridge or a color and a photo cartridge.  The photo itself cartridge cannot print all colors.

  The message here is more information about the different options.  To use this page replacing the 21 and 22 59 for the cartridge 99 74 and 75.

• How can I change the color of contour image in CS6?

  How can I change the color of the border or edges of an image when I place this image into an existing framework? Sometimes when I place a picture, the frame surrounding this image is a very clear, almost white color. It is a problem when I have an image with a white background and I need size by grabbing the handles. Sometimes I don't see the edges or the handles of this image. I know that you can change many colors of guide, but I can't find where to change the border color of the image.

  I narrowed down it to the color of the layers in the layers palette. If my layer color is red, the outline of the frame color is red but the outline of the image is a very light blue. If the color of the black layer the outline of the image when it is placed is almost white, not yet visible

  Is it possible to keep the edges of the image as a uniform color?

  Mac OS x 10.6.8

  InDesign CS6

  I'm sure that the only way to change this color is to change the main color of the layer.

  I'm the kind of geek who found it interesting enough to check into it some, and it seems Adobe engineers wired each layer of color with a 'contrast' direct-selected-color image of contour. Once you know how they are paired, you can always set particular layer color to for your image layer, and enjoy your choice of color of the outline of the picture. Here are the pairings of the 12 color first in the order of creation of new default layer:

  The layer color > color of contour Image

  Lt Blue > Brown

  Red > Cyan

  Green > violet

  Blue > yellow

  Magenta > dark green

  Cyan > red

  Orange > blue

  Dark green > Magenta

  Teal'c > Orange

  Tan > black

  Brown > Teal'c

  Violet > Green

• 5 inks can print 3

  Inadvertently, I posted this under multifunction to be reposted here.

  I have a HP printer with 5 different color inks.

  Light cyan seems to not work properly, there is one way (software or otherwise) to disable clear and magenta cyan and print using normal colors.

  Geffers

  Thanks for the reply,

  The printer was my daughter and not immediately available to me but it just replaced the cyan in question.

  I removed the cartridge, wiped the terminals, supported on the pistons and now he's mysteriously works well.

  Geoff Lane

• Color separation when you export a PDF file

  She was driving me crazy, ADOBE seems to have forgotten to separate colors when using export to PDF method.  Even quark has this option.

  In any case, I expect to know if there is a way that I don't know.

  See you soon

  On behalf of Adobe...

  Adobe applications, including InDesign, Illustrator and Photoshop intentionally omitted the ability to initiate a previously separated PDF workflow. Even if we could hack together previously separated PDF format by producing PDF via PostScript distillation (another stream of work that strongly discourage us at Adobe), the concept behind modern PDF of publication workflows must leave content in its final form at the highest level of abstraction until it must be made, if this rendering is on the screen (a device intrinsically RGB) 4 dye Printing CMYK, or high-fidelity print using traditional CMYK dyes and other coloring such as bright green and orange or light cyan and light magenta as well.

  Once you separate the PDF, you can't really see the PDF for normal playback, you can not easily search or edit, and you cannot change the target printing condition. You can also not dynamic transparency in a previously separate PDF file! And modern native PDF RIPs do not work with these workflow! No ISO PDF / X standard supports these workflows either!

  You want or need to preview separations? Use the preview feature separation of Acrobat (or even the creation of applications).

  If you work with a Luddite printing service provider that requires this PDF files or creates internally, you really need to consider very seriously the other print service providers.

  -Dov

• DesignJet 5000 'CHANGE printhead 2516' customer error said

  On a DJ, customer 5000 (sold the plotter to him a week ago) has used a printhead light cyan #83 for a week. Now says he gets 'CHANGE printheads 2516' error (it may indicate more precisely "replace 2516", but not sure "). Before use, the print head has been sitting 2 years however not sealed with masking tape on the nozzles and only had 17 ml shot from there. I installed and was surprised to see that it seemed to work very well and has about 1 1/2 weeks. I noticed that it weighed about 2-3 grams less than the other print heads (about 35.2 gm while others weigh about 37, 5-38 + gm or two, but it seemed to work fine.) I have purged the tubes until I installed print heads. All others are new.

  I am aware that the relocation and cleanup can possibly contact may be in order, but wonder if I am missing other opportunities that may be obvious to others.

  Thank you.

  Paul

  Hello

  If you clean the print head and still does not ink, you may have to replace it.

  Other cases, I have seen defective cartridges or tubes providing no ink in the print head causes this problem. I hope this isn't the case.

  Best regards

  Mike G