Problem with the disconnection of iCloud.

Similar Questions

• Problem with the disconnection of the customer

  Hello, I installed vmware ESX 3.5.0 server build 158874 a vcenter 2.5.0 build 174768 2and vmware view 4.0.

  every day the client disconnect server vdm. I see this error on the vdm server:

  Event of VMware View ID 104

  (F69B60DFEE328A0C22DC2BF98D8970DF) Carrier 1 IOException. Remote address is zero: an existing connection was to be closed by the remote host

  I control the network for problem but nothig is false.

  any idea or suggestion to determine what is the probem?

  Thank you very much

  Hello

  Please look under Server connection

  -Configuration

  -Global Settings

  Here is the Session timeout point.

  Default value is 600 minutes, and after that the connection will be closed.

  So carry on thr time as you need.

  MCP, VCP

• I have a problem with the disconnection of the Internet.

  Original title: Internet disconnects

  Hello my internet disconnects when I watch videos or downloading or playing online or surfing on why?

  Hello

  There are a lot of variables to a disconnection of internet connection.

  1. cycle power to the modem and router (or just modem or router according to what you only have access to) to unplug for about 10 seconds and reconnecting. Sure if you have a modem and router, when the rear connection, make sure that you plug the modem first, then the router.

  2. make sure that your network drivers is updated through your manufacturers Web site. If you do not know where and how to find these drivers, let know us and we will help you.

  3 how many people use this network at a given time? If you disconnect often which is a network used by a lot of people (network public apartment, family router, etc.) then you can be disconnected due to the use of the network.

  4 if all else fails contact your Internet services provider.

  Kind regards

  Patrick

• Problems with the Smart keyboard (iPad 9.7 Pro)

  I recently bought the iPad Pro 9.7 inches, gray space, Wifi, 128 GB. IOS 9.3.1 of the operating system.

  A few questions that I met in my four days of using the iPad with the Smart keyboard:

  NOTE: the following problems persist despite a technical support call which lasted, I did 2 hours and 30 minutes. I had to restore my iPad settings by connecting to iTunes via my PC to reinstall the last iOS.

  (i) switching applications: if I want to pass, say, from safari to adobe, it is quite easy to do with the keyboard. However, there is an intermittent problem when the apps. When I try to open Adobe when I use safari, the screen of the iPad shows apps that are open as soon as I press the command and tab key.

  What is supposed to happen - I choose to open Adobe, Adobe opens.

  What happens to the contrary - Adobe does not open. Another "X" application that is currently running, opens. It is quite frustrating, because there is no pattern to this. If I use once more the keyboard shortcut to open Adobe, another application 'Y' which is running, open it now.

  In this case, I pointed out, often when the App Store is running.

  (II) command key: sometimes, shortly after I use the shortcut keys to turn on screen shortcut area (pop-up shortcut) - apps, this is supposed to happen if and only if you press and hold down the command key.

  This often happens when I switch to Safari.

  (III) keyboard not responding: a problem that I met today for the first time. My keyboard will not just respond. I had to disconnect and reconnect the keyboard for this function.

  (IV) on which the space key: to wake up the iPad, pressing the SPACEBAR is enough. You don't have to press the home button. Yet, sometimes the space key does not respond and you must use the home button.

  v) Quick app - keyboard shortcut crash switch function causes: if I want to switch from app to app 'X' 'Y', but mistakenly switch to 'Z' app, I immediately want to spend to 'Y '. However, I can't do this in quick succession. I have to wait a second or two before I can switch from 'Y' 'Z' app, otherwise the automatic switching app crashes and you have to wait once more for a second or two before moving on.

  My diagnosis:

  (I) it could be a problem with the smart connector on my iPad. A hardware problem. But it does not explain why the automatic switching app appears and passes correctly but eventually open the wrong applications. Also, it does not explain why the problem is intermittent.

  (II) a software problem. However, that would make me a face 5 questions at once. Sort of. I was surprised that, apart from the question of #3 and #4, there was almost no mention of other issues.

  To restart the iPad or to disconnect and reconnect the keyboard. But I don't think that anyone would be willing to do this 4 - 5 times on a daily basis.

  Update:

  So I used my keyboard all day yesterday without opening the App Store. And guess what? It has been working perfectly. All the above problems I mentioned were not available yesterday. I'll use the App Store today and let it run in the background to see how does my iPad.

• Starting problem with the gray screen on iMac

  Hello everyone

  I'm a bit puzzled with a problem I'm having with my iMac 27 "a model late 2009, bought in early 2010, I had built at the time with 8 GB ram, 2 TB HD and fastest i7 Quad core processor available at the time.

  I'm running El Capitan, and all wise OS is perfectly up to date.

  The other week, after a systematic restart, I have a gray screen and little else.  Another reboot and everything was "normal", so I did not concern me unduly.

  Today, after that the Mac had been idle for a time during a call, the screen fell asleep as usual (I do not SLEEP the computer itself), but during his return and touch the SPACEBAR and key "ESC", the screen remains black.

  So I made a forced shutdown and restart.

  I get the screen gray and normal startup (no other sounds) chime followed by the apple logo and the startup progress bar.  He gets to halfway through the long, and then instead of bring to the top of the login page, it's just going to a gray screen Uni.

  So I restarted in safe mode, OK and ran disk utility a couple of times - at the first crossing, he noted, there a problem with the map of partition which can cause problems starting, but on the second passes and the following, everything has been noted to be OK - and the SMART status of disk has been verified.

  After a reboot - the same question as above - of carillon, gray screen with the apple logo, progress bar and then just a gray screen.  I did another secure boot and re-run of disk utility, rebooted into recovery mode and run disk utility.  And again, no problems reported.

  Another reboot and the issue was always there.

  So this time I rebooted into recovery again mode and downloaded a new installation of El Capitan.

  Unfortunately, there is no set - it is always start on a gray screen after the startup chime, the apple logo and progress bar.

  I have also removed all my account account startup items and disconnected all USB devices.

  I'm a bit lost for what to do next to be honest!

  Is there anything else I can do software wise, at home, or is it time for the repair material re shop perhaps?

  Thank you very much for your words of wisdom and support

  Kind regards

  John... :-)

  John here again: :-)

  Just a quick update which may help to determine what the problem is: I restarted in safe mode, after the reinstallation of the operating system was unable to initialize properly - grey screen again.

  However, as I have a home network, I found that I can not connect on the network with my MacBook Pro to the iMac, see all my files user on the iMac and even copy them across to the MacBook Pro with no problems.

  Everything on the iMac is saved via Time Machine on a Western Digital Firewire HD 3to.

  I also have uncompressed manual 'straight' copies of my music, movies, documents folders, etc, for an old time Capsule, currently acting as a bridge to my ethernet network wireless, and provide additional backup for those critical files - my music for example is ripped 350 odd CD, all legally purchased in ALAC on iTunes on the iMac - which represents a couple of months of work... lol... no way I want to lose that!

  So I'm a bit of a loss.  Disk utility reported no problem with the drive... I can boot into safe mode and recovery, but normal mode 'mode '... I always get the chime, the screen with apple logo and progress of the gray bar, then goes to just a gray screen instead of the login page.

  Help!

  My beloved Einstein had a hiccup!

  All comments appreciated and thanks again - hope this extra info helps

  Kind regards

  John... :-)

• Problem with the bluetooth on my mac

  Hello everyone,

  I am a french and I have a problem with the bluetooth on my mac. My Magic Mouse has been suddenly disconnected from my mac. So I decided to reconnect my mouse. But this time, I couldn't do that because my mac (I think) did not detect the mouse. I said 'I think' because I am trying to connect this mouse on my son's mac and mac knew the mouse: it's only a problem of my mac.

  I went on the 'system preferences' to see if my mac know my mouse again, but no. While my mouse is light and bluetooth enabled. I tried with another mouse and it's the same result.

  So, what can I do?

  Thanks for your help,

  Merry Christmas!

  Roland Matt

  See "your device is not recognized by your Mac" here:

  If your Apple wireless mouse, keyboard or trackpad doesn't work as expected - Apple Support

• How to solve a serious problem with the Battary of my T500 laptop?

  Hi Forum,

  My laptop is Lenovo THINKPAD T500 2055, and its main features are the following:

  -T 39, 6651 SBB 9 CELL LI-ION BATTERY
  -Processor Intel Core 2 Duo T9400 (2.53 GHz, 1066 MHz, 6MBL2)
  -8 GB DDR3 SDRAM Memory Module 4 GB (2 x 4 GB) 1066 MHz DDR31066/PC38500 DDR3 SDRAM SoDIMM Kingston.
  -HDD 2 GB Intel Turbo Memory cache.
  -ATI Mobility Radeon 3650 with 256 MB.
  -160 GB of HDD, 7200 RPM.
  -Windows 7 complete edition with the latest Service Pack (x 64).

  My problem with precision and brevity is the Battary. I was using my laptop with the same battary since 01.01.2009 (almost 3.5 years), and the battary works quite OK.

  Most of the time, that my laptop is plugged and work with electricity. However, A very short time, I used the laptop while it is running on battery power, however, I used to empty the weeks of the dough from time to time, i.e. all 3, I unplug the charger and continue to use the laptop until I see the orange warning sign (5%), then, I connect again.

  Fortunately, I never had problems with the battary or the cell phone, and when I charge the laptop usually it shows sign full (100%).

  Suddenly three days ago my laptop starts to blink and the orange sign battary constantly in charge shows 100%. When I try to run on the battery by disconnecting the AC adapter, the laptop immediately loses its power and stops immediately.

  What do you do? Could you please give me useful tips to solve this problem?

  I'd be greatly and sincerely appreciate all of your entries!

  Thank you for your consideration of my request and I look forward to hearing from you soon!

  Replace the battery!

• SEVERAL problems with the new X 34

  So, I have been active during the overclock.net forums concerning the many problems I am having with my X 34.

  Long story short, I'm back this thing to Newegg and waiting for another delivery. But I thought I'd come at least here because it has high liklihood to return to anyone who cares to Acer. I called their tech support to let them know about the issues, but when the old Indian robot for 2 years at the other end kept referring to as resolution of refresh rate, I decided that I couldn't take more.

  So I took delivery of the monitor yesterday and he initially worked well... but the longer he stayed, the more problems, he has developed.

  My system is one I built a year or two ago and works perfectly with my Dell 3008WFP. Video card is a brand new MSI 980 Ti Lightning. Operating system is Windows 10 x 64. Is a Corsair 750W POWER supply. 16 GB of DDR3 RAM.

  I even made a COMPLETELY new install of Windows 10 on this computer to try to resolve these problems. Did not work. I have disconnected/reconnected everything inside my computer, including RAM and GPU. Did not work.

  And Yes, G-sync is enabled in the NVCP. And Yes, I manually set the refresh rate in the NVCP in correlation with the manual settings on the monitor.

  Problem no. 1: Menu recording does not settings

  -Don't know what the problem is here. But for about 3 hours last night, my monitor would not save settings for serger refresh rate. I would go on the menu... allow the serger... Set it to 100 Hz... Select "Apply and restart. Then (here's the interesting thing I think in hindsight), the screen would flash many colors several times and restart. I assumed that flashing color was normal... but it was never the Predator Logo when it has been reset. The office is finally pointing upwards and I could choose 100 Hz in my NVCP... but when you returned from the settings menu, Overclock was Off back with the default refresh rate. I have nothing would fix it with the reset of the monitor and unplug. Later... I have unplugeed the monitor for 30 minutes and when I plugged it back in, it would save my overclock settings now. It is interesting, but now, when I selected "Apply and reset", he would show the Predator logo when restarting... this logo did not appear before.

  Problem #2: Flashing screen

  -See a video of this question HERE

  -This developed before my eyes. After the initial installation of the monitor, it worked fine. Without no flicker, no problems. But as I was sitting at the dinner table last night, I started to see the monitor flashing intermittently in the other room. I look at the screen, he flickered about 4 or 5 times per minute. For the next hour, he progressed to 30 - 40 times per minute. And subsequently developed in constant blinking. BUT this flicker only happens when I go to the Office at 100 Hz. It happens sometimes in games, but not constant.

  I first thought that I had a bad cable of DP since I used one from Amazon, if I swapped it for the Acer cable included. Nope... same problem. I even inserted my previous EVGA 780 TI... but the flicker that happens too.

  Then, I thought it was a driver problem, I did a clean install of the nVdiia previous drivers. Nope. Then a cleaning installed latest drivers from nVidia WHQL. Nope.

  Then I saw here that you can download the drivers for the monitor directly from Acer. So, I did a guy like an unsigned driver installation. Nope.

  After all this, the problem persists.

  Strange thing about this one is that there was when I first got the monitor but got progressively worse since I got it.

  Another weird thing is that if I have a window open, then it isn't twinkle... reduce the window, and he comes back. It's actually what made me think, it was a driver issue, but as you can see above, I think that I have ruled that that fully.

  Also, if I set my refresh rate to 95Hz or below, the problem occurs. (This is actually how I currently work).

  -UPDATE: the issue has actually started just after executing i1Profiler to calibrate the screen several times back to back. I can't imagine how, but could the rapid exchange of multiple colors full screen damaged electronics somehow? Or is it just a weird coincidence?

  -UPDATED #2: it was suggested that ADC can cause the problem as it caused problems with the previous Acer monitors. So I completely deleted i1Profiler and reset my default .icc profile. I also think that I figured out how to do a monitor factory reset - if you hold the buttons first and fifth, restarting the screen and all the default settings. in any case, does too and the blinking persists...

  #3 problem: Backlight horrible bleeding

  I have to type anything here? Leave some pictures to speak for themselves...

  

  

  Trouble #4: Parts of the screen does not not on

  It has been described elsewhere, so I won't detail it here. But yes, I have the same problem. Here is a representative of my monitor picture when the issue arose.

  

  Overall, I am extremely disappointed, although I can't say I'm surprised. I mean, we deal with Acer here guys... Not exactly known for the high-end products. You can put the red lipstick on a pig...

  So is there more any idea or suggestion out there?

  Until then... I'll wait for my new X 34 excerpt here from Newegg to see if I won the lottery of Acer he...

  I created this post to be a "accepted solution" to this thread with the purpose to help other users who need to find the answers. This should help to find this information faster than to have to go almost 800 posts to find pieces of information.

  Wake up from sleep (backlight) - initial response and follow-up

  Problems with Overclocking at 100 hz - original response

  Coil - Whine Original response

  Color banding - users in Australia reported the problem. The teams in the region to THE have been notified and a firmware is available.

  -Scanning lines Original response

  Thank you
  Cory

• Could get a new router block printing? We had a lot of problems with the computer in the last week and a half. Bought new router and now the printer does not print. :-(

  (1) we went to DirecTV. Then the same day, our internet computer is down. I asked our current provider, Suddenlink, to let them know we had them to another - but we wanted to keep for the internet.

  (2) called DirecTV to investigate why our internet went down at the same time they installed? They said that they did nothing to cause that. We waited 5 days to make out and also install the third TV that was promised. The second tech gave things a lookover and said, once again, that there is nothing unusual during their passage to cause the problem.

  (3) called Suddenlink. They said it was the router. Called the people of Netgear. They said that the router was too old. We needed to pay an exorbitant sum for support and when I told him I'd rather just buy a new router and get free technical support for 90 days... and I personally do not have the credit cards in that time. (it's my mother s equip and I wonder it for the computer) when the guy told me that he could help and hung up on us, even though I was pleading for him to wait until I put my mother on the phone. (I'm in my 40s... not a kid).

  (4) Suddenlink called a few days later, when we got a new router (netgear brand NO!) Installed and I noticed that the 'ready' light was not 'on' on the modem. Their technology has said that he would check and call us in a few minutes. He did not.

  (5) the next day I called Suddenlink AGAIN. This time, I got a really nice customer service agent. She said she would send someone to check on it. It turns out that they had disconnected when I had called to pass only the TV.

  (6) in any case, we are finally online... only now... I can't the printer to work. :-(  This has worked before.  Could it be caused by the different router? I don't know about these things. I didn't even know what it was until someone at Radio Shack has explained to me. (I was not about to buy one at Wal-Mart - these poor people). The printer is a Canon Pixma MX340. We love him. The only thing is that it is difficult to clear the tasks or to reset. The only way to really do that is to simply pull the plug, unfortunately and restart the computer. But hey, it's a great printer, better than HP.

  We are under vista. The router is a Linksys wifi (which we have) N300 model E900.

  Of course I appreciate any help you can give. God bless you!

  Michelle and Ruth.

  Hello

  Thanks for posting in the Microsoft Community.

  I understand that you are facing problems with the printer in Windows Vista.

  I imagine the inconvenience that you are experiencing. I will definitely help you with this.

  Please follow the steps in the link.

  Solve printer problems

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-in/Windows/printer-problems-in-Windows-help#fix-printer-problems=Windows-Vista&V1H=win8tab1&V2H=win7tab1&V3H=winvistatab1&v4h=winxptab1

• Problem with the volume of a new 7 Slate

  I'll put up a new slate of 7 and I have a problem with the sound.  I have all the sliders to the max value, but any video or app plays at a very low volume on the builtin speakers. A trial has been with FIOS app that allows me to stream TV shows. I have to hold the Tablet so the speakers are right next to my ear to make the same concersations on the show and it's barely...

  Am I missing something?

  How to make your slate with audio files simply by using the application to play music?  And have you tried to play a trailer of the game of Google?  Type right on a movie title and play the trailer by typing on the > arrow.

  What if you use headphones?

  Do you have ear system sounds?  Go to settings > sounds > Touch seems to be there where there is a checkbox on the right whether Touch sounds are on or off.

  Speakers of slate are not all that, but they do not produce a sound that is strong enough to listen to the TV shows and movies.  If you can not enough volume of them with other applications such as the music plays, there may be a hardware problem.

  A few other suggestions... try to restart it.  And back to headphones, try inserting a headphone plug in all the way and disconnected.

  _
  As a contributor of top of page on the Forums of media consumer, HP, HP gives me access to the slate of 7 free of charge so I can better answer questions on the Forum.

• Photosmart 7520 error: there is a problem with the printer. Turn the printer off, then on.

  I have a photosmart 7520 affected by the following issues.

  Issue #1: randomly, all lights start flashing market and the screen reads the following:

  Error. There is a problem with the printer. Turn the printer off, then on.

  I can't find a move that throws this to happen.

  #2 problem: When the printer is turned on and slowed down, also at RANDOM times, the printer will "Ding" followed by the flashing light wireless. So what sounds like the cartridges are cleaned, then a sound like the charger spinning or the printhead full running followed from one side to the other, then ending with a "Ding" and then back to normal.

  When this happens, the wireless connection is disconnected and then reconnected. Also, this disables the "Scan to computer" function on all computers on the network and manually requires the reactivation of all.

  From what I can tell the printer restarts itself.

  It is plugged directly into the wall outlet, no surge protector.

  Technical support has already go through the stages of the print head, me up to the top of the chain and eventually replaced the printer with a new brand.

  THE NEW PRINTER STILL DOES THINGS AS PRECEDENT.

  This printer is connected wireless to router Netgear N900. My all current computers running Windows 7, all are on the same network and workgroup and all are running Mcafee Total Protection.

  If someone is or has experienced the same or similar problems, I could sure use help.

  Solved myself.

• 0x61011beb problem with the printer or the ink system? Please HELPPP!

  I just bought the HP Photosmart Plus printer and it keeps coming back:

  Failure of the printer

  0x61011beb

  There is a problem with the printer or the ink system. Turn the printer off, then on. blah blah blah.

  I rebooted, disconnected, out cartridges many times. I did a lot of things on sites like unplug and wait 60 seconds and then put cartridges back and nothing works! Help me understand this im out, so frustrated.

  Thank you!

  Your error code is a HARDWARE problem.

  Try a partial RESET

  from the home screen

  To access the Help Menu home/Idle screen, tap Control Panel 4 times in this order-

  Lower left (BL) / top left (TL) / BL / BL to the Support Menu displays on the Control Panel, and then press OK

  (press the arrow to the left, "home", arrow, the arrow back button back)

  then select

  Press Menu >

  Resets the Menu >

  Partial reset

  If this does not work, you will need a new printer.

  call 1800.474.6836

  You may be eligible for a free replacement. have your product serial number ready.

• Problem with the touchpad: Tap to click does not work if I use a standard account

  Hi all

  I have a problem with my laptop that I don't understand and I need help from the community.
  As the title says... If I connect to my laptop using a standard account the touchpad does not work if I try to tap to click. Left and right buttons work, move the slider works, works of scrolling, but endearing tape... not even a single tap. If I log in with my account as an administrator, the touchpad works like a charm, no problems. Tap to click and everything you want. If I disconnect the admin account and sign in as a standard user, the problems are back again. I can move the cursor, click on the two buttons (left, right), but I can't type to click...

  I tried to reinstall the driver for the touchpad (which is MOMENTUM...) but it did not. I tried to see if there is any option that can prevent this tapping or something... but in the control panel > Touchpad > Tap is turned on. A strange thing in the control panel of the Touchpad is that [when loggend as a standard user] I get an error "unhandled exception has occurred in your application. If you click on continue the application will ignore this error and attempt to continue. If you click on exit the application will close immediately. "and a new line saying"index was outside the bounds of the array. If I click on continue the error disappears, but reappears if stationary "double-tap" enable/disable option. If I click on leave the Touchpad Control Panel closes...

  All this trouble occurs only when I use the standard account. With the administrator account, I don't get any errors so I soar options, disable them, activate them and most importantly, the tap to click works.

  What is the problem with the standard account?

  I have Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit Service Pack 1.

  Can someone help me please?

  Hi Johnxf,

  ·         Did you do changes on the computer before the show?

  As he works in an administrator account, then probably your standard user account have been damaged and would need a fix.

  Follow the article provided below to fix the corrupted user profile:

   

  Difficulty of a corrupted user profile

  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/fix-a-corrupted-user-profile

  Let us know if that helps.

• Problems with the sound button and the wireless button

  I have a computer laptop dv6-2155dx, and he has a problem with the sound, the button bar button and the wireless button, all of them continue to work, I do not know if I made a mistake and let them turn off or there is another way to get available.

  I need some advice.

  Hello

  Do a hard reset:

  1 disconnect all devices and remove all USB devices and multimedia cards.

  2 disconnect the power adapter, remove the battery and then press in and hold the button for at least 1 minute.

  3 reconnect the power adapter (do not connect the battery), press the power button

  Verification is your problem is resolved or not.

• Anyone having problems with the new iPhone LTE connection 7 on Verizon?

  I am now on my iPhone second 7 with Verizon. I had four phones for me and my family. I have now had issues where I have no signal in the same areas where my signal allows to be strong. I can't solve the problem with the activation/deactivation of the airplane and then mode again in normal mode. My phone will rest with no signal for 5 minutes, then going to LTE with three bars. I also had the problem where I had only 1 x signal, while my son standing right next to me has LTE. And he had the same questions, where I'm on LTE and it gets no signal. I use to have LTE where I live and work all the time, now it's spotty at best. Apple has replaced me and my sons iPhones but not luck. Still do. Any ideas or an any other suffering?

  (1) go to settings/cell phone/cellular data Options/enable LTE and select ONLY the DATA. This seems to solve the problem (as a temporary solution) for most of the people affected by this problem. The bad part is your request might not be as clear (since they cannot use the highest LTE signals) and you can make calls and data at the same time. But it does not solve the issue.

  (2) there are rumors (but you didn't hear that from me that we only are not supposed to discuss beta software program Apple in this forum) that the new version of Apple Beta for iOS (which also includes an update of the software carrier Verizon to 26.0) seems to solve this problem. So, there's a light at the end of the tunnel.