Shadows / shades clear glitter

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• Shadows / shades clear effect on text

  Hi all

  As shown in the image below, would someone please let me know how to generate this kind of Visual effect on the text with Photoshop?

  

  Thank you very much!!

  Apply a layer style to your text layer, see the button in the photo attached. There, you can add a drop shadow and other effects that use the transparency of your layer. In this case, they seem to have used a feature white and then added a shadow...

  

• Rendering problem: bleeding of Chroma on the shadows thanks to solid mast

  Hello. I have a problem with a simple project. It is a project in incrustation chroma simple green seems OK inside the first, but once exported it turns into a nightmare. I'll post screens instead of writing the details. I do not use external plug-ins. The output is rendered with settings tweaked for H.264 Vimeo 720 p 29.97 fps MP4 format. Sorry for the blur, but I work with an NDA, but the problem is that in the shadows as far as I can tell.

  This is what it looks like inside the first (reference and program are similar)

  

  This is what the matte looks like:

  

  And here is the final (checked in QuickTime and VLC):

  

  I have never in my life of edition in the Pr, FCPX or smoke has encountered this problem before. Any help/suggestions please?

  Good news, I fixed it.

  It was of the order of the effects that triggered it with shadows / shades clear FRONT Three-Way correct color

  I just changed the order of interaction between these two and the problem disappeared.

  It's very disappointing Adobe. Alongside with numeroud random crashes on OS x, now I am facing this stupid bug. I would hesitate to really taking this NLE in professional customer workspace...

• New to Pro-100, do not print, problems with a color cast or poor shadow values

  Hi forum! I am a new owner of a Pro-100. I have a Pro - 9500 Mark II.

  I have a symptom of having a kind of dominant to my dark values on several tests of purple color printing. I printed with photoshop and everything just app photo apple - same result.

  My blues are supposed to be blue electric/royal, but I'm close to the Navy. Violet is also in shades clear, but not as obvious.

  My nozzel checks look good, I did a cleanup, tried a few different profiles...

  All advice appreciated. The image below is an idea of what I see. I'm not in a piece of color balanced to take a picture of my impression with the monitor. Thank you!

  

  Fixed! I got on the Horn with support canon technique. Mary told me download Print Studio Pro. We made some adjustments and I now have a good impression. the result is great, but the process seems like a band-aid to put on/in photoshop. I wonder if the question is more photoshop, or even more with the software of the printer... But, Cannon was very helpful, the whole process takes about 30 minutes.

• Don't want shadow on stage, how to get rid of him?

  Hello

  I had a scene with a white background (transparent would work as well) and for some reason, a shadow grey / corner is automatically added. How can I turn that off?

  

  It is barely visible in the simulation because it would be full screen, the final animation is smaller, so the gray shadow is clearly visible on a white background.

  Thanks for the help,

  It is not displayed in the HTML code, it is simply displayed in the program. It won't be a problem with the final product.

• Why several ghostly images when I play the video in the timeline?

  I'm new to Speedgrade and I understand how it is powerful - but I think it's completely intuitive compared to After Effects or first or even PhotoShop.

  I loaded a test clip (30 p ProRes) and when I try and play and watch on the configuration of the monitor I get four ghostly images of the shooting.

  I'm not using an external monitor as I am shaken upward in a hotel room working on a MacBook Pro.

  In order to speed (ironic, huh) I'll probably make the colors work in After Effects, but if someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

  Forgive me if this info is already posted on the forum - I tried search but he came up to the top with a white and a large number of tutorials.

  Don't not seen this... but it would be good to get a few things to help you. SpeedGrade is a program unique, but it's actually quite simple to use once you begin to understand the controls and what they do, which is often a little different from what is a noob expected... as when I started with him, I have found certainly!

  First of all, it is more demanding of hardware damage even... If the Sg doesn't like your platform, it will simply go crazy doing nothing. He won't give you small problems like stammering, he'll do great things that obviously does not work. So... that's just MbPro got for the video/graphics card? And how much RAM? Computers that use the graphical features embedded very rarely work well with SpeedGrade. Under 8GB RAM... don't even think on this subject. You MIGHT be able to live with 6 GB of RAM, as some people have claimed that they did... but this isn't a nice job... slowing.

  Following... is this a project of SpeedGrade 'native mode', where you open SpeedGrade and a new project, and then make a timeline it in SpeedGrade, or a draft Premiere Pro sent to Sg by using the command "live from SpeedGrade?

  Initially, I found Sg so impossible, that I used Ae a little myself. Now... I was not to AE for a long time, except to say fight against noise or create a sequence of reading can do a LUT of her.

  First step to a colorist or the marshalling of the app is neutralize your videos... Making it NOT enough. It's a different passage home and down the road. In this step, I don't even look at the picture very much... I'll have the RGB Parade, Luma and YUV Vectorscope 'up' signal and watch, particularly the parade & wave. I select the slider controls (in color wheels) and unlock all the controls I use (the small icons of lock). I'll adjust individual controls in color on the section Offset (left set of sliders) to match the bottom of their footsteps a little over 2 or more, I will look to see if it's ok or should it perhaps a little lighter with this image. The switch for the Gain sliders (right) and set them to basically same heights for the scope of the parade, with their vivid the two lower at 100 and research appropriate for the image. It is sometimes as low as in the 1960s, sometimes as high as 99.

  Next is to use the Gamma sliders (in the middle) to correspond mainly to the parade & - waveform traces... all easily identifiable 'forms' in the mid tones I will align with each other.

  The foregoing leads me what... 20 seconds? May 30 at the most.

  Then I switch back to the color wheels and compare the images with my eyeballs and the vectorscope... How is the saturation and... How is the balance of color/tint and the proportions compared to what I'm used to seeing on the field and the monitor? At this point, I'll do a bit of tweaking of the Gamma & Gain color wheels and luminance sliders, perhaps use contrast, temperature, magenta or rotate the cursors in the cursor above group wheels. This neutralizes things pretty well.

  Can do... Nice... or better. JUST looking at a picture's contrast, luma (lamps or dark) or chroma (color)... where's the good contrast, where... not very good? You can have too little contrast color (saturation) in the midrange, but perhaps too in the brights... or your shadows can all tend to block upward around 5-20, when you need to go up a little higher. This is where the tabs above the wheels of color shine... This example:

  

  The tab made highlights chosen... No, you have still three wheels, each with (vertical slider) luma and chroma controls (wheel)? They overlap, and in order to play a bit with a ramp is great. A "ramp" is a tonal graphic staircase from black to gray in several stages, make an and import... then play around with the settings and see what effect each has... where on the ramp.

  Here, on the tab highlights... the rightmost is very bright pixels in the clip, with overlaps down the scale a little. Controlling the environment moves mainly on the third median of this, the upper third of the image around... with some effect in the poorest and brightest pixels in this part of the scale. The right control is the bottom of the upper third... usually used to help blend in the midrange. Also... See the control 'grayed out '? Set that say gray color and pixels that you change will be in color, the rest of the shaded image. You can see directly what you change.

  So... as you have three basic commands, Offset, Gain and Gamma, and three controls each for shadows, average and clear tones, you have a LOT of very refined tweaking you can do. Also... Note the vertical slider to the left Luma control for the facts tab highlights? In text turned on its side, it says mph... who is the pivot of control that defines WHERE on the scale of the end of the midrange and treble begins... you can move upwards or downwards. Among the witnesses of midtones, you have sliders on both sides, one for the breakpoint of shadows/Mids, one for the breakpoint Mids/facts highlights. Shadows tab has a pivot for the shadows/shades breakpoint.

  It affects all the cool things you can do with the secondary and masks and other... but it's long enough for now!

  Neil

• HP COLOR LASERJET CP 1215 printer

  When I print on my printer, the shadow (very clear) text or image Printed will appear later (downstairs you original text) so the text appears double.

  I use the cleaning of the my printer HP software tool, but the problem persists.

  Comment do I do to solve this problem.

  Thanks in advance

  Please repost of language French, forum hardware and drivers.
  You should also contact the HP printer help manufacturer.
  Google for support in your country.

  Please language of promotion to rebroadcast, french hardware and drivers forum.

  http://answers.Microsoft.com/fr-FR/Windows/Forum/windows_vista-Hardware?tab=unanswered

  You should also contact the HP printer manufacturer for assistance.
  Google pour support in your country

• I want to layer styles to resize when my document is resized.

  If I can do it I have all I need: vector art automatically generatic shadows/shades etc which can be resized to any size and still have the same composition or watch than I initially expected. I'm trying to save myself work in case the guy needs me to resize things later.

  Is there a script for this?

  Title of the message was edited by: PECourtejoie

  I edited the title for you. Answer by Chris' works for you, or is your different problem?

• Forms: Select options, filtered by another select option

  Hey chaps, hope someone can help with this:

  I have a PHP form, with a couple of some menus, which are filled from two SQL tables:

  Select 1 (main color):

  1. Red
  2. Blue
  3. Green

  Select 2 (color of the shadow):

  1. Clear Red
  2. Dark red
  3. Light blue
  4. Dark blue
  5. Light green
  6. Dark green

  What I am after is something to filter then choose it option, after the first select option has been chosen

  Select 1:

  1. Red

  Select 2:

  1. Clear Red
  2. Dark red

  I'm sure that this is possible, but do not know how to go on this issue, any help would be most appreciated.

  What you reference are called cascading in the drop down menus. You must either store all the values for the second menu in JavaScript or Ajax table allows you to query the database again, from the first selection. Do a Google search to find more information.

• AutoComplete does not work on Mozilla, I see the shadow of the box. I've done all the troubleshooting recommendations and nothing works. Upgraded to latest version, Mozilla checked the parameters of confidentiality/history, cache cleared, Java Update.

  AutoComplete worked this weekend, and now it doesn't. I made no changes to my computer right now. For example, I can't fill the bar below to say "it happened...". "cannot see the drop down menus... just a little flicker. problem is on mozilla and every program I opened w / Mozilla.
  Before contacting you I searched the forum, done all the things suggested above and nothing has fixed or even partially improved.

  I also have IE on my computer and it works fine.
  

  my contact: [email protected]

  Do a clean reinstall.
  If there are problems with the implementation at day then best is to download the full version and uninstall the currently installed version and remove the Firefox program folder to remove all remaining files.

  • Download a new copy of Firefox and save the file to the desktop.
  • Firefox 7.0.x: http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/all.html
  • Uninstall your current version of Firefox.
  • Do not remove the data of a personal nature when you uninstall the current version or you lose your bookmarks and other data in the profile folder.
  • Delete the program folder Firefox before installing newly downloaded copy of the Firefox installer.
  • It is important to remove the Firefox program folder to delete all the files and make sure that there is no problem with the files that were the remains after uninstallation.

  Your bookmarks and other profile data stored in the Firefox profile folder and will not be affected by a relocation, but make sure that you do not select delete data of a personal nature if you uninstall Firefox.

  • http://KB.mozillazine.org/Profile_folder_-_Firefox
  • http://KB.mozillazine.org/Profile_backup

  It is perhaps not necessary to create a new profile, so first try if it works with your current profile, and if not then create a new profile.

  • http://KB.mozillazine.org/Standard_diagnostic_-_Firefox#Clean_reinstall

• I have a photo n & b and I want to select/display just the pixels to their real shadow and shade. How can I do this?

  Basically, if I have a photo of n & b and all the pixels fall into darkness of 100% (black) and the darkness of 0% (white), I want to select/display just the pixels that are between 40% darkness and darkness of 50% or 70% darkness and obscurity 80%. Is there a simple way to do this?

  

  

  1. create a level of gray as in the example above.

  2 place it on a layer above the image as shown, then merge down to create a single layer

  3. place a layer of white below

  4. return to the upper layer and double-click it to open the layer Style

  5 move the top right slider to the left to remove the values 0 to 35

  6 move the cursor on the top left to the right in order to eliminate the values 100 to 65

  Other values in grayscale and photo are between 40 and 60%

  Set the other parameters and apply the same technique.

  

  

  (To save you time, I can send you the scale.)

• Fonts of the desktop icon is hidden. How can I get rid of the shadow

  Windows 7
  icon description a shawdowed police. It is difficult to read. How can I get rid of the shadow effect on office only?

  You can find the setting you need in the Performance Options.

  Click on the round to Start and then right click on computer and select Properties from the context menu. In the window of the System in the left column click on Advanced system settings. In the System Properties window, click the Advanced tab, and then under Performance click settings. In the Performance Options window, on the Visual effects tab, scroll down to the bottom and clear the shadows down usage labels icon on the desktop. This should remove the shade you want.

  I hope this helps.

• Need HELP to get this shadow effect

  Hi all

  I need your advice. Sorry I don't know the name of this effect below therefore the scene I need help

  A man holds a flashlight illuminating a girl in the front (she is a bit away from him in an open field), now the shadow of another person walks between the torch and the girl. The shadow is being cast from left to the right end of the frame, falling on the girl, too, as it moves.

  How to achieve this effect in the aftermath.

  It may or may not be a question of amateur, but any help would be so useful.

  Please notify

  It is now much clearer. you need advice VFX before your shoot. You must have a shadow without the man, be there. I think you can go 2-way with this: shoot twice the place or go to the green screen approach. each with its own complexity and the advantages and disadvantages. I will describe the basic principles:

  Approach to location

  If you want to try to do on-site, you can:

  1. turn your scene with the man and shadow

  2. pull on the same stage without human and shadow

  3 mask man with the rotoscoping and tracking

  This might work if you have no movement in your scene. or if you have motion control of drilling that will exactly twice the same movement.

  The green screen approach

  your question - if you can touch a person out and make him a shadow on the floor - YES. It's the way I'm going to try to do - it's called a Shadow Catcher - a layer that only accepts your shadow. This might work with or without movement of the camera.

  Let's say you have this guy on green screen

  

  and you want to just its shadow on the background against

  

  Here are the steps:

  1 make the guy (layer locked) 3D and add a corresponding upstairs floor * in the actual shooting.

  floor - add you a solid, it make 3D, add the effect of grid and position it accordingly with a camera of 2 knot like that of setting

  

  2. Add a layer of light points and set the shadow, set the images captured in the shade and the soil layer to accept shadow - only and adjust the light

  

  Now you have this:

  

  3. check that everything is OK, now define the images captured in shadow - only

  

  Now you have just the shadow. You can adjust it to your taste with the darkness of the shadow and the diffusion in the properties of light spots

• Flash shadow on the face

  I had an outdoor family session this morning and he was quite grey and dull, so used flash off camera. Unfortunately, I didn't have my soft boxes with me so I got a few shadows on the face of the mother of his son. No matter what photo shop assistants out there who have a method to minimize the impact of the shadow?  You can see the picture here:

  Dropbox - Gatesy - 9.jpg

  I downloaded a view 100% of the affected area, then you can use if you wish. Click to expand and copy.

  

  OK, looking at the problem, the shadow area is clearly delimited, that is going to be useful.  So I chose the shadow with a quick selection area and improve the contour and it gave a fairly high feather (3.0), I copied while the selection into a new layer.  The advantage of this is that it will simplify the masking.

  

  Open an adjustment layer curves and hang it on the copied grey area.  Click the icon of the hand and the image on his right cheek, and then drag upward to match the area of shade No.  If the entire image is made, you don't clip the layer curves (the icon on the left)

  

  You will find that you can solve most of it with the first curves layer, but there are a few deep shadows, so open a new layer of curves, hang it and adjust.  Ignore the first fix getting more light.  Invert the mask layer and paint back with a white soft brush.

  This lets you close enough, but you'll be lucky to get a homogeneous solution at this stage, so that's where we cheat a little.

  Select the top layer and make a layer merged copy (Shift Ctrl Alt e)

  Open the filter Camera RAW and apply some clarification negative to soften skin tones and some of the objects of our edges of curves layer.

  Now select the Patch tool, select one of the objects and drag to a clean skin area.  This will be same on the tonal range in difficulty to remove the artifact.

  Repeat for the other problem areas.

  Negative clarity will have softened the whole image, then add a layer mask and reverse.  Peindre paint in front of the White Lady, and then masked her eyes, teeth, etc. with black.

  

• Help with two text objects which are spaced closely shadow effect...

  Hi all

  
  

  I have 2 text objects, the two effects of shadows drop applied, as they are spaced closely, his shadow effect is quite visible on another text as its white colored text...

  
  

  What should I do if the two text will be clearly visible / no drop shadow effect to a text on another?

  
  

  Sorry, I'm completely new to this... Please give a link if there requested similar question already here...

  Thanks for taking a peek @ the question...

  Vish...

  If you put the text layer that has shadow top above the layer which is the cause, it will go away.

  If the effects of two layers are performing each other then you just put one on the other.  You need to go and fix it manually.  There are two ways to do this:

  (1) in the menu effects for shadows check the box that says 'layer mask hides effects '.  Then create a layer mask and simply hide the shadow where you don't want to.

  (2) put the layer with the shadow in a group and put on a mask of clipping on the group.  You can then paint in the shade.

  Stamp 3) visible, then layer mask.