SHOOTING RAW

Similar Questions

• Memories of game DON'T SHOOT RAW on A7II

  I just tried shooting RAW with my Sony A7II using Smart Remote integrated memories play and discovered PULL the RAW IS NOT. Only JPEG files. I talked to Customer Support and it is confirmed. A huge disappointment! As Olympus has had this feature for a while. The E - M1 and E - M10 have IS RAW shoot application.

  HI: you got me scared, but it turns out that Smart Control does shoot RAW (and jpeg). See the explanation of Brian Smith of activation which:

  http://briansmith.com/Sony-smart-remote-embbedded-app/

  Strangely my name is just a smart remote. Not "integrated".

  Make sure that your application is up-to-date. I tried to follow the instructions of Brian (http://briansmith.com/how-to-update-sony-play-memories-camera-apps/) , but it didn't work, so I updated using the camera itself and wifi.

  I tested this configuration and managed to capture RAW images using the application.

  see you soon

  p.s. I also have a Sony A7ii

• I have a Canon EOS 7 d Mark II. I would like to shoot RAW files. Is there a version of PS that I can use to adjust the CR2 files without having to adapt to DNG files, first?

  I have a Canon EOS 7 d Mark II. I would like to shoot RAW files. Is there a version of PS that I can use to adjust the CR2 files without having to adapt to DNG files, first?

  Hi Nesta,

  This camera requires Camera raw 8.7, versions of Photoshop CS top ^ (latest) should be able to process raw images from this camera.

  Recommend you go with the last a Photo collage software | Download the free trial version Photoshop CC

  Kind regards

  Assani

• Lightroom gives you a message that it does not support the file format.  I'm shooting raw in a Nikon d5500 has been added.

  Lightroom gives you a message that it does not support the file format.  I'm shooting raw in a Nikon d5500 has been added.

  This device requires Lightroom 6.0 or newer. What version of Lightroom do you use?

• Change the Frame Rate, frequency rate not when shooting RAW

  I think not all the controls to change the frame rate independent of the frequency rate that, I guess it's like 'project frame rate '.

  How I crank out 240 fps 2 K RAW or say 60 fps (time base 23.98) during the filming of SXS?

  Follow-up to question... is there a manual for this camera accessible to the public anywhere?

  Thank you very much

  BK

  You can overcrank (once again, "S & Q" for "Slow and fast") to XAVC 1080 p at 60 fps at the moment, with firmware v1.10.

  That's all. Any other framerate 60 fps have access by setting a frequency 59,94 system and slow down the images in the post.

• I started shooting RAW format.  I saved in jpg format and noticed that my images are now about 1 MB in size.  When I used to shoot jpg and save jpg, they were about 8 or 9 MB. I am more that I realize compress.  Can you please walk me through a step by st

  If there is no photographers out there.  I would also like to know if you save as .tif for them.  I wasn't sure that customers could get files printed everywhere .tif that they wanted (as they can with jpg).  Let me know how save you for them.

  The jpg file sizes can vary significantly - depending on the topic and you choose the quality setting.

  Flat images, like a snowy on a cloudy day, landscape will compress much more than an animated image, as trees, sunny with lots of details.

  When you save a jpg file, you can choose quality on a scale between 0 a 12, where 12 gives the highest quality and the least compression.

  You will see the size of the file in the dialog box options Jpg, and you can also preview to see how the jpg will look.

  Having said that, the file size is not really an indicator of the quality or resolution - dimensions in pixels are.

  But if the file will print, use a high quality setting, like 10 or 12.

• Importing RAW + JPEG photos files times

  I put up my Nikon D5100 to shoot RAW + JPEG files when I take pictures. Photos is to import both, when I just want to import JPEG files. Can I separate the two formats and delete the RAW files in pictures? Also, how can I stop the RAW files to import in the first place?

  If I search for RAW files in Photos, the program shows them, but when I choose 'Get Info' on them, they show that the JPEG. Really weird...

  Yes you are right - this is exactly how it works - to use the RAW format as the original for editing then editing for a photo mode, click on use RAW original title in the menu image - these photos will have a RAW badge on them, others will have a JPEG badge on them--Photos that are found only in a format do not have a badge on them

  And I suggest review you both RAW and JPEG shooting and shoot that you want - if you pull them both, and then import that you'll both in Photos - you can use Image capture and import from the camera on the disc and separate form BRUTE of the JPEG and import only the one you want - but even for me it is just logical to the format you want to shoot not the format you want

  LN

• Two copies of my pictures: Raw and JPG!

  Hello

  Looking at my library of Photos I can see that the application has created duplicate photos when I imported the raw files. Looks are two images, but they are the same except one has a much larger file size. The information shows that they are the first two, but Im guessing the other is a proxy JPG.

  I want to only keep/use of raw files. What I am doing wrong, and is there a way I can easily get rid of these strangers JPG?

  I hope you can help

  Where do you see that? Photos (then you ae shooting RAW and JPEG and you will need to change your device settings) or by using the finder (Note: NEVER use the finder inside the photo database - there is no user serviceable inside and change of andy as small as can damage your library)

  As for ordinary with RAW photos you will always have the original RAW and a smaller JPEG preview and a very small thumbnail JPEG - i.e. how work pictures - changes are saved the data basic and applied to th eoriginal when you export it and a JPEG preview is preserved in the current edition of picture for a quick reference and use by other programs - if it's not what you want then you need to use different software as this is how photos woks

  LN

• You want to copy raw but only transfer jpeg photos. .

  When I downloaded pictures of the camera, I know that to both jpeg and raw as the little j symbol is at the corner of the photo. If I select an image, then press edit, I can change the original in raw photo.  To copy to flash drive raw images, but when I copy, it only takes jpeg image and not the raw image...

  Select the photos and export the original unmodified - I think that will get the RAW only

  I can't test as I don't shoot RAW and JPEG that I don't see in it - it just wastes space and gives me no benefit

  LN

• How to display raw pictures images

  How can I view my photos in "raw" format to change. The only version I see on the photographs is jpg, but the photos have been taken in raw.

  Are you shooting RAW only or RAW and JPEG

  If you are shooting RAW so you see the RAW because it's all it is - if you pull them both (and you have to wonder why not just take a you want and save space) then in edit mode under the image menu, click on use RAW as the original

  LN

• RAW or JPEG?

  What is better when taking pictures? He put on images RAW or JPEG of L? I've been using setting L (the best), but I see a lot of photographers like to take RAW images. I noticed that RAW uses more memory on my card too.

  Which do you prefer and why? I'm still learning...

  Thank you!

  I started using JPG, but once I had a little practice in the use of Litroom I started shooting RAW + JPG.  I did for only a little while before I realized taking 2 pictures of everything was fills my cards two times faster and it fills the buffer in my camera and limiting the number of shots I could have burst.  I then went to just RAW.

  Some of the guys on turned here at the time of the film and probably developed a habit of thinking more carefully before that they don't push that I do sometimes.  In my opinion, no matter how much I try, I can't avoid mistakes, including bad white balance and imperfect exposure.  These two things are much easier to correct if you shot a RAW image.  White balance in particular highlights the benefits of shooting RAW, as you can fix every time no matter how far you shot, while in JPG format, you really exceed a limit to what extent and how well you can twist.

  You also have a better time, work with RAW files in virtually all post processing including noise reduction, vibration, sharpness, contrast, etc...

• New to RAW

  I have a Rebel T2i and try using RAW. Is there a reason for using the picture style function options if I'm RAW processing, it seems to me that I can even accomplish things using RAW. Please explain if I'm wrong in the present. Thanks Jim

  You have reason there is no real reason, more importantly, it has no effect when using the Styles of image for RAW images.  Image effect designs only JPG images.  You can reproduce these same Picture Style effects very easily to your RAW images in post processing with DPP.  In the tool Palette Raw tab, simply change the value of Style of photo.  From there, you can return to the same RAW image or change beyond.  Often adjust your RAW image to one of the picture Style settings is a very good starting point for photo editing.

  I have RAW and use photo Styles, so whenever I shoot RAW and JPG, I upgraded JPGs incase I want to use JPGs straight from the camera.

• Slow buffering when shooting in burst mode high with my 7DMarkii... What is the fastest SD card?

  When shooting in burst mode high with my 7 D Mark ii, I do not get optimal performance... the buffer fills up fast and backup... while I can't take shots more... I disabled the quite high definition noise reduction... Usually, I only have an SD card in the camera. I do not use the other card slot... is it because I didn't have the fastest SD card... For those of you who shoot regularly 7 D Mark ii, make it a point to always shoot with a SAndisk SD 95 map... ? I'd get better performance if I used the slot for CF card or both?

  IRIS says:

  I'm shooting with a single card (SD), a Lexar pro 64 GB 150 MB/sec Class 10 and 3 inside the U (whatever that means), but I show a limit 16 popping up on my screen... so I do not understand... I'm shooting a low ISO... I have disabled noise reduction... I'm shooting a Standard picture style... I'm shooting RAW only... My battery is charged... Then why is it backup and buffering so often? I forgot something? is it's just that the CF card is faster? .... I doh't understand why I don't get the perfromance promised high 20 + something burst shots...

  First of all, Yes, CF cards are faster.

  Second, the number you see is the current buffer and does not include the write speed of your card.

  The only way to tell what your real brightness issue is therefore to test.

  Shooting RAW to SanDisk Extreme PRO 32 GB 160 MB/s UDMA 7 CF Card, I get about 30 shots before the outbreak slows. My viewfinder shows 15.

  Note When your feature of gust of defined test cards your lens to manual focus (MF) because according to your settings of priority to focus the camera auto focus can slow or even stop your glow.

• Files Windows XP and RAW

  Windows XP does not recognize the RAW files on my camera (Nikon D80) and converts them to JPEG. How can I stop this?  Also, it does not recognize the camera as an external storage device, but my deskto don't.

  XP does not recognize the cameras as external storage.

  In my computer, it's under the cameras and Scanners

  In Device Manager it is under imaging devices

  In the computer management it does not arise under removable storage

  XP cannot open, read or convert the RAW images.

  Cameras that take RAW images can take just regular, just gross or both at the same time.

  Your raw image must have a file extension. NAVE

  Check your settings on your camera again and check to see if you have .nef files in your folder.

  If you're shooting RAW you probably have Adobe Photoshop that can also import your photos.

  See what version of RAW in your Photoshop.

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/x-productkb/global/camera-raw-compatible-applications.html

  See what needs your camera RAW version.

  http://helpx.Adobe.com/Creative-Suite/KB/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html

  Most versions have a camera raw update and if your version cannot open first you can download the free Adobe DNG Converter that will convert your raw (digital negitive) .dng files

  If you like working with raw you impossible to open and download it when even because it supports more than 350 models different cameras so if someone sends you a raw file, Photoshop you can convert.

  http://www.Adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5389   It's the latest Version

  I hope this helps!

• Lightroom CC - D810 Nikon raw file are too dark after import

  I see all my images appear underexposed by between half and up to 1 stop after importation. Curiously no noise in introduced by displaying the exhibition, but it makes no sense. The images look great on the camera LCD screen as I understand is based on JPEG files.

  I advised me to picture the value-neutral and contrast-1, sharpness at + 6 while the camera histogram produces something close to what the histogram of the image raw might seemed to make (if there was one).

  I've read elsewhere that restore the image control could have an impact on the imported raw images, is this the case? If so, is there anyway I can fix without of course just to erase the picture control settings?

  The in camera settings should not have an impact on the RAW photos. There is therefore no point moving them if you are shooting RAW. (Exception: white balance)

  In fact the d-lighting that has a huge influence on the raw data. When you activate it, the camera lowers ISO real he pulls the image (but the highest ISO reports that you set in the metadata file), and you end up having a picture that's actually underexposed by about one stop. Nikon software knows that the camera did this and automatically compensates for. Most of the brands of main cameras have a setting that is similar. Cannon called priority to highlight for example. Lightroom does not know what happened and presents an underexposed image regarding the format of JPEG in camera. However, this setting is off, the culprit is usually your auto is enabled (uncheck in the preferences-> Presets), a default camera is defined (often done by chance - clear all default values in the preferences-> Presets by clicking on "reset all settings default development), or a"Preset"is applied to importation. Check the import Panel and press "reset" on the previously imported images.