whistle help!

Similar Questions

• Help to remove this clip Horn/whistle/buzz sound system

  We shot a wedding a few months back and the DJ system we connected to a recorder of H2 to had a buzz in the wishes of all. We connected via RCA.

  I checked our recorders and unfortunately they have experienced a similar craze, but it wasn't on the microphones of the camera, which had a VideoPro Rode on it, there is a certain echo of the microphones of the camera.

  I hope to be able to use the audio in the file selection below. Did he have done this thing corrected? I spent over an hour doing this work but I just did the voice too spindly or buzz sounds better, but I lose a lot of the quality of the voice. Anything to help this couple to get a better audio experience! I'm no sound engineer. Sometimes, we have one or two weddings where the right DJ system records not well. It was our a marriage in 2015.

  Dropbox - Toasts.WMA

  Thank you in advance!

  Jason

  You have a slight problem with this - and is that you used the MCO on the microphones, so the buzz level jumps up and down, and it does not at all help.

  I got a reasonable result just by using NR processes, take a sample of all the buzz alone. I put the FFT to 8192, the NR level to 20% and bring back the slider to 6dB - all other default settings (I think). This is not screw with the sound too but out the buzz of reasonably effectively, although the background noise that bounces is now more visible, and you can not solve, I'm afraid - well not without all that its really odd, anyway.

• Helmet whistle after only 4 time under assistance

  Hello to everyone

  I own a Macbook Pro 17 "[start 2011]. OS X Yosemite 10.10.5

  Forgive me for the long description, but it seems that one problem has evolved into several ones and I, on my own, can not find a solution.

  On 24 February 2016, I took my computer to the title of the assistance that the battery ended of his life and had to be replaced. The hull unibody 17 "this operation cannot be performed at home as the Mac must be 'open '. For the first time, I thought to buy a battery online and replace it on my own, but to avoid "risks", I decided to take the title of assistance.

  The same day they gave me back my computer, but after a few days, the logic board failed due to a "congenital". I picked up my computer a second time and they kept there for a week to replace the logic board. Fortunately, this situation is covered by the s in warranty program that apple found that almost all the Macbook pro early 2011 had the same defects.

  Before making my computer the Apple store called telling me I could perceive the Mac, and that, because of the replaced logic edge start has a sort of a 'pause' [you see the loading bar then everything disappears and then you see it appear again]. The genius bar, I noticed that this was accompanied by a very slow start-up-in [clock] in hand, I counted three minutes.

  Struggling to help again once they told me as would have checked my computer, and during a call in the end they asked if it was possible to format as it counted by the operating system settings always "calibrated" on the old logic board.

  After the problem of formatting, reduced a bit, even if the start is still slower than before.

  I'm back from my computer, but once I used it in an environment quite I noticed that the left speaker was a whistle every time a sound that's happened. The hiss remained for 30 seconds and then disappeared. The whistling was audible, even if the volume has been completely turned off and does not appear if the headphones are connected [no hiss were audible on headphones].

  Took my computer under support the fourth time they replaced the left speaker and they said that they replaced the logic board [yet].

  I picked up my Mac and the problem seemed missing.

  So finally, we come to today, I was using my computer with headphones and I started to hear the hiss even, but this time just while I was with the helmet.

  I checked online if other people had the same problem and it seems that most of them proposed to take in respect of assistance.

  My question is: what should I do? I read on several that associated Mac forums that Apple products are "programmed" at the break after a certain period of time, if visitors are "forced" to buy a new product. My computer worked fine until I had to replace my battery, and it's the computer 17 "laptop last produced by Apple. I honestly don't know what do now that taken under help, seems it a mockery because I am sure that after replacing again thing speakers eject [maybe next time the monitor will begin to blink or light under the keyboard will fail]. I think about buying a new computer, but in all honesty, how can I trust Apple now?

  By the way I want my computer back as it was before the replacement of the battery.

  4 times in respect of aid for almost a week in less than three months is certainly unacceptable for a company like Apple like all that I heard 'experts' of the genius bar was "what you have in your hand is not only a computer, but advanced technology, etc etc..." but in the end all this "expertise" is not my problems but actually created new.

  This hissing must depend on the battery? The logic board? A faulty speaker? Another element broke during the repair? A software problem?

  This problem becomes worse and spoil the other parts of my computer?

  Forgive me for the inadequate number of questions but the problems that I encountered during the 2 months never seems to come to an end and I really hope that the community will be more useful than the genius bar, where I felt treated like a number, with the audience of store who tried to solve the problem in the minimum possible time without even listening to the end What is the problem and how I got there.

  Apologies again for the long explanation, but maybe the real problem is hidden behind something that has been neglected, and I want to make sure that nothing has been forgotten.

  Thank you in advance for the help you will surely be able to give me

  All the best

  Try a reset of the NVRAM:

  https://support.Apple.com/en-us/HT2040

  If no success, make an appointment in an Apple store genius bar.  Apple repairs have a 90 day warranty.

  Ciao.

• I can hear whistling by changing the brightness level of Satellite A300

  Hello

  I do not speak English very well excuse me.

  I have a display problem. When I low (dim) brightness, a whistle is here.
  Is this normal or not?
  I have a Satellite A300 1lW

  Hello!

  I doubt that this is normal and I don't have this on all my notebooks from Toshiba.

  I think that it of not easy to help you and solve the problem, I have the best way would be if you go to a local ASP and ask a technician for help.
  On the Toshiba site, you can search an ASP:
  http://forums.computers.Toshiba-Europe.com-online decision-making supported downloads & => find an authorized service provider

  Good bye

• Satellite P100-216 - power adapter continues to whistle and does not load

  Recently the adapter (black box on the AC power cord) on my satellite P100 began to whistle and does not charge the laptop, the machine worked that for about an hour and a half, then don't would not have thought that it was getting hot,

  any thoughts?

  Hello

  For me, it looks like a malfunction of AC adapter.
  I think that the cable must be broken, due to the fact that the adapter keeps whistling.

  I can give you only one advice; the adapter needs to be replaced!
  In this case, you should contact the ASP in your country and should ask for help.

  I m guys has can help you.

  Best regards

• Speaker W540 whistle

  I bought a new Thinkpad W540.

  Everything works fine. But I found a problem.

  Once I played all the sounds, I could hear the high whistle, it is very annoying.

  Could you please help me? Or where I can test the top by technical support.

  I am in Boston, MA, USA.

  Thank you.

  
  

• Microsoft lifechat lx-3000 - whistling distortion from the microphone

  Switch off the speakers and try again headset.

  Sound cards usually feature a digital-to-analog converter (DAC), which converts recorded or generated digital data into an analog format. The output signal is connected to a headphone amplifier, or external device using standard interconnects, such as a TRS connector or an RCA connector.

  http://en.Wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_card

  Most of the cards her consumer have a separate audio input (often used to amplify the audio output of the CD-ROM) which is a good way to test the audio amplifier. In general, if a sound card has both speaker and output line, the speaker output is likely to be noisier than the output line (any hiss and hum will be more noticeable in headphones) . Unfortunately, the line output will probably be of insufficient current drive for all except the most effective helmet (look for models with sensitivity of 100dB sides or more). If necessary, compare the soundcard Headphone amplifiers with good audio specifications. To enhance the sound quality or for more volume, consider adding a line to the outputs headphone amplifier. Some computers radiate RF frequencies that may cause a headphone amplifier humming, then try to select one with a good RF shielding.

  http://gilmore2.Chem.Northwestern.edu/FAQs.htm#misc

  TrueRTA calibration tutorial

  http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/45407-TrueRTA-calibration-tutorial.html

  TrueRTA software (freeware)

  http://www.TrueAudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

  Go to control panel, sounds, reading devices, your audio device properties list there, tab improvements and then check the "disable all enhancements." Set to zero if necessary and I hope that your whistle no longer exist, mine is not at least. I hope this helps.

  http://Forum.NotebookReview.com/Alienware-M14x/583992-M14x-audio-hissing.html

  Thanks again for the effort, the problem is the sound I get is not released. This problem has been fixed (it was just my mic, echoing my helmet by some Skype problem caused) this is the microphone generating noise that comes out of nowhere, it looks like a rain/Static/hiss noise/white noise and can be heard by everyone I call on Skype etc and can also be heard by me when my system starts and I can hear my mic , I have turned off my speakers, removed my sigmatel audio drivers and it did not help, I tried to start with all other windows drivers stops and same problem persisted. I'm starting to think that it's really a hardware problem as opossed to a software problem. I'll take the headphones back tomorrow and hope that they can tell me more on this subject.

  Thanks for all your time and effort, I apoligize nothing helped me
  Sincerely, Gilles.

• HP Envy M6-1105dx: help of trade-in value?

  Hello

  First of all, I am a user of HP of LONG date and with the experience I've had so far, I would stay like that, although recently it seems very difficult to navigate in the website of hp for technical support sales etc.... None of them are linked together so if you go to the turnover and ask about a trade-in value they don't know and they don't know where you must go and ask to find the way. So I've owned say 4 laptop computers hp in the spent 8 years or less than the most recent being this m6-1105dx HP Envy with the quadcore AMD A - 10 8 GB ram ATI Radeon 7660 G etc etc etc. Well with all the new computer games that I really need to go to something much more powerful do not misunderstand that this puppy is always a beast! I need something in the sense of an i7 quad w / Nvidia so I wanted to know how much I could get for this laptop if possible trade if it's a total waste of time scam then I will be a little upset because I know its worth a couple hun, its in very good condition has bell and whistles of backlight keyboard etc. So I did some how find a section repeated here on HP, but its way out dated from what I saw. So could someone please help me get in touch wih a real human response? Thank you all! Be vigilant and G-bless!

  Brent

  Have you tried that?

  https://h41201.www4.HP.com/AdLanding/us/en/8408/?JumpID=hpr_r1002_usen_link1

  OK, I tried to run to your laptop and you're right that it doesn't have the option to include your specifications. I ran it as much as I could and generated an offer of $45. It seems that it is not designed for a single consumer unit but for businesses that have many units to trade autour. Honestly, I don't think that HP has a program to accept the times of single unit.

  For the record, the last two full portable computers 'new' condition as yours that sold on ebay were a little less than $300:

  http://www.eBay.com/ITM/HP-envy-M6-1105DX-laptop-AMD-A10-2-3GHz-6GB-RAM-750GB-HD-Windows-8-beats-audio-/351312165749?PT=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cbd63b75

  If it's 'the Answer' please click on 'Accept as Solution' to help others find it.

• Whistle with ECM - W1M Bluetooth microphone and a3000 camera

  Web site of Sony said that the a3000 and ECM - W1M are completely, 100% compatible. I bought the microphone and the receiver lights up on the camera.

  I try a lot of things until I decided to try to record with the receiver on the camera, blue light comes on and the microphone and the receiver coupled with each other. I know that through these hoops does not mean that 100% compatibility. anyway.

  The problem is that the microphone has a very strong sound when not all the sounds. Example.You turn it on and it pairs. Before you start talking there is a strong sound. Once I have start talking the hiss disappears but comes back if I stop to talk to a down while.

  Question to Sony, are Multi Interface devices all different? Sony sells an all being the same and compatible. And I'll be back the MIC because the whistle is going to get better?

  Thank you.

  Seems to me that if you have an AGC (auto gain control) turned on. If you are not familiar with the MCO, it does is amplify the volume of the sound entering the camera until he hears it. In other words, it increases the gain of the sound. This is probably why when you talk about the hiss disappears, but he returned when there is only available for noise which is much more difficult for the camera to 'hear' compared to your voice or loud sound source as an instrument for example.

  I am not familir with the a3000, but you could look through your menus and see if you can turn off or maybe the audio manual value.

  Hope that helps.

• Please help, 8 Win leads me to madness. He has a mind of its own.

  I'm sure it's a built-in function daignee be beneficial for the touchscreen, but believe me, the laptop everyday with a keyboard, it is quite exasperating. You make the slightest movement with the slider and you are suddenly whistled off the coast on a fully independent screen. Is there any solution for this? Microsoft must be aware that this is a problem. My brother did the same thing. He appeared calm right down for a few months, as the navigation in a normal version of Windows on a regular computer, that I have no idea what I did to achieve this. Since I did a refresh of the system a few weeks ago he's back with a vengeance. Here, he just did again. I was to move the cursor at the end of the sentence and was whistled off the coast to write new messages in Outlook. Why! ?? I would be really grateful if someone could advise me on what to do. I'm at the end of my home. I can see this laptop pretty soon hit the back wall! And he just did it again. Write a new e-mail in Outlook. Help, please! :(

  I'm sure it's a built-in function daignee be beneficial for the touchscreen, but believe me, the laptop everyday with a keyboard, it is quite exasperating. You make the slightest movement with the slider and you are suddenly whistled off the coast on a fully independent screen. Is there any solution for this? Microsoft must be aware that this is a problem. My brother did the same thing. He appeared calm right down for a few months, as the navigation in a normal version of Windows on a regular computer, that I have no idea what I did to achieve this. Since I did a refresh of the system a few weeks ago he's back with a vengeance. Here, he just did again. I was to move the cursor at the end of the sentence and was whistled off the coast to write new messages in Outlook. Why! ?? I would be really grateful if someone could advise me on what to do. I'm at the end of my home. I can see this laptop pretty soon hit the back wall! And he just did it again. Write a new e-mail in Outlook. Help, please! :(

  Hi Karma

  Looks like you have problems with the Touchpad on this laptop.

  Laptop many keyboards have advanced options that are designed to allow movements that simulate the touch screen functions.

  Examples: options, sensitivity, scroll, Pinch Zoom, a slippery finger gestures other than simulate the pressure of a button or double click when touching a certain area on the touchpad, etc..

  To check this, I would recommend that you attach a standard USB mouse to the laptop computer and disable the touchpad. See if this prevents the problems you are having.

  If this resolves the problems, open the properties of the Control Panel/mouse and look for a tab that has the Touchpad options.

  If you let us know the brand and model of the laptop, we can study this further.

  Concerning

• Help! I am changing a video summary of the matches, and I do not my audio LAV on mobile devices.

  HELP! I am changing a video summary of the games where I can hear the background music, but I hear not my audio LAV on mobile devices. I can still hear the music background and LAV audio through my computer and tablets and mobile devices, but only with headphones. Using an imac k 5 with all the bells and whistles. LAV audio is an Audio Technica system 10 lav. I tried upload on Vimeo and Youtube. They both have the same effect. Here is a link to hear what I'm talking about: https://vimeo.com/140882053

  It of a problem of phase, use left on defective clips fill effect. Your microphone is connected probably not correctly.

• Weird bug in Premiere Pro CS6 whistle

  I have a very strange problem with audio in Adobe Premiere Pro CS6.

  Whenever I have create a furrow in an audio clip, a few seconds of hissing broadband is introduced in it after the cut. The hiss is only in the exported video. It does not appear after each cut, but about 10% of them.

  The whistling is also there when I export in various video/audio formats. This is when I used different codecs edition. He might be there for the clips I recorded with some not very good microphones on a Canon 5 d II, but the hiss appears only after that I have a tool for audio editing and export audio/video or just audio. Sometimes however it shows immediately in PP before export. If I clean the whistle at the hearing for a given element I hear is no longer in PP but once again it reappears after export.

  It seems that the problem appears when editing video shot on a Canon 5 d MII with the camera in mic or several microphones of rifle hunting, but not with a lapel mic decent. Change Edition and export codecs does not help the problem.

  (i7 960 3.3 GHz, Win 7 sp1 12 GB, Nvidia GeForce GTX 470 1280MB, PP 6.02)

  All the clips had reduced a whistling noise.  Nobody has found a good solution for the Bug of weird whistling "?"

  Sure.  Do not use these effects.  Make your audio work in hearing.

• Kiss the whistle - part 2

  http://forums.Adobe.com/thread/860180?TSTART=0

  Based on the above thread... a little more help needed please.

  O K.  did the concert and recorded (filmed) a grand piano in a solo situation with a pianist.

  Amazing, amazing, amazing experience for me... pianist was awesome and it turned out that we had a... made by hand Steinway Grand Concert for the performance.

  My audio amateurism did introduce a certain degree of "whistling" in the record... .Although I have to say... I really nailed the feel of the Steinway (confirmed by the owner of the Steinway and a Professor of music (Piano) University.-the two who were there and who I listen to headphones as I implemented the show).

  I've reached a certain beautiful reallly stereo separation and audio dynamics is so real and satisfying. MY HUMBLE OPINION

  Important was... the performer. emotionally and visually really has complete event

  Now... I want to 'kiss the hiss': bye!  (How?)  The hiss is there, and I maybe only (not the client) will know.

  Next...

  I would like to raise a little volume of a requirement of the DVD release.

  I have everything dynamically safely with a peak around-12dB in my edition (first Pro CS5.5)...  This means that I have to find my just a little follow-up.

  What is suggestions for a little more courage on the sound of a DVD?  I think I must add 6dB.

  Oh well, back to the level is the easy bit - that's what standardization is for. Highllight the entire file, select Effects > Amplitude and Compression. Set the scale in dB, and then drag the level back to about - 0.5 or - 1dB (you'll hardly hear the difference between these, but do not go to 0 dB if it is a kind of disk you write - sometimes they get mad!). Apply it, and will then reset your file so that the highest point reaches the value that you set. Don't try to do it with the on-screen gain control, because on a file more you won't see the pics properly, so you won't know how to adjust. The normalize function, however, this very precisely made.

  As for getting rid of the SSIH - well, it depends on how much there is to know to what extent you can get with this without ruining the sound of the piano. What you need to do is go to Effects > noise reduction and select the one upstairs, one focused on the process. What don't try you that with another adaptation, or attempt to use the noise reduction - they work as well, especially the Adaptive NR - that could ruin a piano even sound without trying it, I think.

  Open the advanced control. Initially, you need to set the size of the FFT to 16384 - in other words, the highest there is, since it's a hissing sound you are trying to reduce. This setting, you must then perform a single hissing selection in your file and the capture as a profile of noise (SHIFT + P). If you try to do this before the FFT, he'll do again, so beware!

  Then, it becomes more difficult. You must select a part of the file which got preferably, whistle, piano and whistle and then just a hissing sound, all in a small section. Don't worry too much on the blue line on the screen at this point, or doing whatever it is, you see, but you can trust your ears and do an overview. My guess as a starting point for the slider settings very important is that you need the noise reduction a rule somewhere between 80 and 90 percent and reduce by one set to not more than 10 dB above. Also in the advanced Panel, established somewhere control of the spectral decomposition near or less than 10%, otherwise you will get the modulation effects more that you will like.

  What you listen to, mainly, is what is happening during the disintegration of piano sound, where hiss level comes back to, and what objects you can hear (if bad it looks like bubbles under water). What you absolutely don't want to do is get rid of all the noise - this would make artificial sound, and no one will want to listen to it for a long time. It will also destroy the downgrading of piano. What you photograph almost certainly, is that a reduction of somewhere between 6 to 10 dB - beyond that is where the problem is inevitable. You don't need sounds of piano strong to set parameters, but quiet ones - the NR will not significantly affect something of higher level anyway. One thing you definitely want to avoid is any form of modulation hiss - what is more annoying whistling itself - it's where the parameter of spectral decomposition becomes important, and keep low - certainly not to the it by default of 65%! It is only when you remove too much hiss you get sensitive objects - and to avoid this, you need to monitor high enough to hear.

  Unfortunately, all the records are different from this POV - it's one that you absolutely have to play it by ear. If you can post a few seconds of noise and quiet piano however, it would be much easier to get you in the ball park.

• I have a lg 4 k tv (40 "40UH630V TV LG ULTRA HD 4 K) with HDMI 2. 0 and if I buy apple tv 4 can be used with HDMI 2. 0 port or do I HDMI 3 port to use this? Please help me

  I have a lg 4 k tv (40 "40UH630V TV LG ULTRA HD 4 K) with HDMI 2. 0 and if I buy apple tv 4 can be used with HDMI 2. 0 port or do I HDMI 3 port to use this? Please help me

  You can use it with your TV.

• Need help to find an adapter for a third-party monitor

  Hi all! I find myself in need of a little guidance, and I hope that someone out there will have a quick n easy for me...

  I have a Mid-2011 27 'iMac. which has two ports Thunderbolt It is taken with a Wacom tablet that I use constantly, and the other is made by an external hard drive to a solid state, which has a built-in cable to Thunderbolt (no way to hang it on a different port). I also have a 27 "HP monitor that is currently connected via an HDMI USB adapter.

  The problem is that the HP monitor is actual "jiggy" - the USB does not seem fast enough to deal with requests for the monitor. It is almost unusable. I know I should run it via a HDMI adapter Thunderbolt, but as I have already mentioned the two my Thunderbolt ports are already in use.

  Someone at - it ideas? I need sort of three to two ports Thunderbolt hooks, but I can't seem to find anything for less than $300 that would work. (I am illiterate when it comes to the different cables, adapters, ports, etc., so I hope someone can point me in the right direction by using short words... Most of the products that I travel through list specifications that me Chicane).

  The monitor has two HDMIs and a VGA port, and my iMac has a Firewire 800 port, if that helps at all...

  2011 iMac have only 1 Thunderbolt port and there is no such thing as a Mid-2011, you must have an iMac of year later, if it has 2 ports Thunderbolt. All the 27 "iMacs, from 2012 to 2015 the current have 2 ports Thunderbolt.