15mm

Similar Questions

• DV7-6195us, a 15mm high hard drive adapt?

  I have a laptop DV7-6195us.

  I want to upgrade the hard drive in the drive Bay Second to a Western Digital WD20NPVT, 2 TB hard drive. This drive is 15mm high. My current drives are 9.5 mm in Bay 1, 12.5 mm in bay 2.

  The larger hard drive will fit inside the bay, with or without secondary hard drive bay changing? If the change is necessary, what is involved for the mod?

  Thank you.

  Dave

  Dave1290,

  Here are the specifications of your HP Pavilion dv7-6195us Entertainment Notebook computer. Here is the HP Pavilion dv7 Notebook PC - Maintenance and Service of Guide for your computer. According to the "maintenance and Service Guide", Page 6 - Chapter 1 - "Product Description", only the following drive formats are supported;

  Hard drives - Supports 6.35 - cm (2.5 in.) 12.7 mm hard drives (.50in), 9.5 mm (. 37-in) and 7.0 mm (. 28 - in.) thick

  According to the information above, the answer is that a 15mm disc does not fit into your computer. Change can allow the reader to adapt, but could compomise the drive and/or computer. I wouldn't recommend any change to this effect.

  Please send Bravo

• Replacement keyboard for Portege A600-120

  Hello
  can someone tell me what the size of the connector must be on the Portege A600-120 keyboard?

  My keyboard failed last week and I ordered a new one that was supposed to be compatible with A600 but the connector was too broad.

  Mine is a thin flat 15mm wide ribbon.

  Keyboard serial number is G8C000903EN, but a Google serach watch is the keyboard for the R500...

  Thank you

  Hello

  As far as I know the keyboard cable is connected to the CN3230 on the motherboard.
  The CN3230 is a dish * 30pin * I / F connector

• Maximum height in the car on 8570p?

  Can't seem to find an answer to this anywhere.

  What is the spare maximum height that can be used with the p 8570? 7mm? 9.5? 12? 15mm (which would be nice)?

  Hello:

  All hard drives that are supported are 9.5 mm thick.

  Please consult the service manual, Chapter 3, p. 48.

  http://h20628.www2.HP.com/km-ext/kmcsdirect/emr_na-c03565466-1.PDF

  Unless someone here has tried to install a drive hard > 9.5 mm thick (very unlikely) in a p 8570 successfully and can tell you what the max is, all we can do is to go through the book.

• HP Pavilion DV7 7000 quad: compatibility HDD 15 mm with HP DV7

  Hello! I have an edition four HP Pavillion DV7 700 with the following specifications:

  • Processor: Intel Core i7-3820 QM 2.7 Ghz
  • Graphics card: nVidia GeForce GT 650 M with GDDR5 memory
  • Memory: 8 GB RAM
  • Display: 17.3 "1920 x 1080 resolution
  • OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64
  • Storage: 2 x 1 TB HD 5400 RPM cache 8 MB (Toshiba)
  • Battery: 9-cell Li-ion, 62Whr
  • Wireless: Wi - Fi 802.11 b/g/n
  • Ports: Ethernet, VGA, HDMI, USB 2.0, ports three USB 3.0, headphone and microphone, SDHC card reader
  • Optical drive: Blu - Ray player / DVD writer
  • Dimensions: 16,38 "x 10,79" x 1.28 "(W x D x H)

  I would like to buy a drive HARD Seagate 4 TB ST4000LM016, 5400 RPM, cache of 128, which is 15mm thin. He'll be back in my laptop?

  Also, I would like to ask questions about the other models of hard disks that would be able to work with graphics programs, including Adobe Premiere CS6 and above. I need better, faster rendering and export of speed. Also, the hard disk must be at least 1 TB of capacity, or even better.

  Thank you very much for your answers!

  Does not fit 15mm. You will not be able to get the closed access cover.

  You could get a full SSD 1 TB that would satisfy any concern for speed, that you may have, but will be provided to or simply more $ $300. The other option is to get a 1 TB drive 7200 RPM with the largest cache of reading possible. Something like this:

  https://www.Amazon.com/HGST-Travelstar-2-5-inch-internal-0J22423/DP/B00B4QESVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&QID=1466796266&SR=8-1&keywords=1TB+7200+RPM+2.5+inch

  A SSHD, which is a cross or "hybrid" of a mechanical and solid state drive is also an option:

  https://www.Amazon.com/Seagate-laptop-2-5-inch-internal-ST1000LM014/DP/B01CSGLVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&QID=1466796324&SR=8-6&keywords=1TB+hybrid+7200+RPM+2.5+inch

  1 TB SSD:

  https://www.Amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-inch-internal-MZ-75E1T0B-am/DP/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&QID=1466796430&SR=8-1&keywords=1TB+Samsung+850+Evo

  If it's 'the Answer' please click on 'Accept as Solution' to help others find it.

• 2.5 "2 TB HDD - Fit into the Ultrabay slot?

  2.5 "HDD - series Western Digital Green 2 TB
  I was contemplating putting one of them in my housing ultrabay.
  It fit?

  N ° it is too thick. It is 15mm and you need to 9.5 mm

• HP Pavilion DV6723el: Replacement of hard disk Maximum size

  Hi all

  I have a DV6735el, PN: KN782EA #ABZ and I would like to a drvie larger than the default value of 250 GB and 4 GB of RAM (ok). Makes this model of support: 1 o 2 TB?

  I guess he can use Sata III interface (without speed improvement).

  It requires disk with hight 10 mm or can I use also 15mm?

  Thank you

  Any 2.5 inches wide and 9.5 mm thick SATA hard drive laptop will work and they make the models TB 1 and 2 for those who are very good. It may be SATA III but won't work at a lower speed of SATA on your laptop. Post back if you need help most.

• About T3I EF lenses

  I just want to know if my calculations are correct on this point. This is the focal point of equavalent of some privileged lenses EF on the T3i. I multiply by 1.6 x culture right?

  24mm EF would be 38mm
  30mm EF would be 48 mm
  85mm EF would be 136mm

  Is that correct or should I go?

  Kolourl3lind wrote:

  I was wrong. BY EOS, I meant ARE full frame camera and not Cameras EOS Rebel EF-S.

  Also, pass my T3I and 6 d very often when I photograph an event. Photographed it hard when I don't have the same point of view using the same lens wiith each camera.  What I'm trying to do is buy a first decent Wideangle to fit on the T3i. This will allow me use the T3i just for wide angle of shooting at a focal distance and get photos decent quaility compared to 6 J using a zoom lens.

  It's the best configuration, I can think that it's just easier for us my 6 d lenses and switch instead to carry two cameras.

  Well, now it is more clear what you are doing, and you go back between the two formats.

  However, he has very little of primes that are ultra wide on a full frame and still very broad camera on a culture's APS - C sensor. 24mm is a good wide angle on a full frame camera, but only behaves like a slightly large 'normal' when used on a crop sensor camera. I have and use a Canon EF 20 mm... fairly wide on full frame. It's nice, but only a moderately wide lens (32mm FF equivalent) on a sharecropper.

  There are Canon 14 mm (origin and Mark II). And there is a manual focus only Zeiss 15 mm ZE. There are also a few glasses of 17mm. These are quite expensive, however. And, in a culture a 17mm camera sensor is only moderately wide.

  In the past the Tamron and Sigma made 14mm full frame compatible lenses. Those who were of an image quality questionable and abandoned several years ago... so will be available used, if you can find them.

  There is also a 14mm Samyang/Rokinon lens which is full frame compatible and affordable, but the update manual and operation manual only, so more time to work with. It sells for a little over $ 300 and also lie in Bower, dotted, ProOptic, Vivitar and other brand names (Vivitar called 13mm, even if it's the same lens.) This lens has strong "mustache" distortion, but there is software that can correct.

  Another possible consideration, all 14, 15mm and many the 17 mm... and some of the largest of the full frame capable ultra wide angle zoom, too... tend to have front lens elements very strongly convex which allow not the standard to mount vissants filters.

  There are simply not many really wide Prime lenses for crop sensor cameras. And most of the primes and zooms that are wide on FF, are only slightly or moderately wide on culture.

  If you want to use the lens wide angle on the T3i onlycrop sensor, there are a few good zooms you should really consider.

  Canon recently introduced an EF-S 10-18mm IS STM lens which is a real bargain priced at $300 and even less for sale currently. I have not yet used, but have heard a lot of good reports. No, is not as sharp edge on board as others, but it is quite surprisingly good for the price (which is at least $100 less than any other ultra wide-angle zoom... $200 or more at most).

  Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM has been around for a few years, sells for about $650, and in my opinion is one of the best ultrawides to cultures of any manufacturer photo sensor. It is very well fixed, strong side by side with well controlled chromatic aberration, reasonably good quality of construction, able to use the standard 77mm filter and has exceptionally good flare control.

  Sigma offers two versions of 10-20mm and the widest of all in a 8-16 mm. A 10-24 mm Tamron. Tokina has offered the fastest in a 11-16/2.8, but also a 12-24/4, (which are now discontinued, but can still be found). Tokina is currently introducing new models of 11 - 20/2.8 and 12-28/4.

  However, all of the above zooms are 'just culture' (at least on a technical level, see below).

  If you want to use the lens on your T3i and 6 d...

  Canon of nine 11-24 2.8 L / would work fine... but is very expensive (almost $3000).

  Sigma offers a 12-24mm, which is full frame and crop sensor compatible. It is rather expensive and has one important of distortion.

  There are various 16-28mm, 16-35mm, 17-35mm, 17-40mm which are full-frame compatible... tho, all this is just moderately wide on the T3i culture.

  An interesting possiblitity... I can tell you for certain that a Tokina 12-24/4 is a good lens on cameras of the harvest, and that it is partially usable on full frame. I tested it as wide as 17 or 18 mm on my 5DII, until it begins to show the vignetting. I understand the Tokina 11-16/2.8 is usable on FF, too... but only she is put in 16mm. (I haven't used so can't say on the two new models of Tokina.)

  FOR INFO:

  Colloquial for Canon EOS Digital cameras is "APS - C / 1.6 X crop" and "full frame / 1.0 X.

  Or just 'crop sensor', 'culture' or 'cropper' vs 'full frame' or 'FF '.

  Canon lenses are ' EF/full frame compatible' or 'EF-S/APS-C only of cultures '.  Only Canon's EF-S objectives using a variation on the EF mount, designed to not allow lenses to physically join the cameras 'incompatible '.

  There is no "ES" or even "EF" cameras and few people to refers to «Caméras EF - S» That's because the cameras APS - C or crop can use both EF and EF-S objectives... While the cameras full frame can only objective EF of use. Objective EF - S will rise not yet physically on the camera models full frame as your 6 d (nor on the third cannon used to provide format: APS - H or 1.3 X.hich also EF lenses require).

  Home objective third-party manufacturers there are not EF-S-objectives. Sigma, Tokina and Tamron all only use EF mount, regardless. Although they may be possible to mount on a camera full frame, many glasses they offer always are "cultures only"... They do not produce an image circle large enough to cover the entire surface of a full frame sensor, it will strongly vignette. Yet some work partially (as indicated above).

  Canon EF, "Di" of Tamron, Tokina "FX" and "DG" lenses Sigma are all sensor full frame and compatible cultures.

  Canon EF-S, 'Di II' Tamron and Tokina "DX" Sigma "DC" lenses are all cultures only.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********

  Alan Myers
  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

• Interpretation of focal lengths specified

  Are specified for the real EFS lenses focal focal lengths or have they been adjusted to be equivalent 35mm?  For example, if an EF lens with a range of specified the 18-55mm lens is mounted on an EOS 70 d which has a 22.5 x 15mm sensor, angle of somewhat wide to telephoto, or makes the angle range very wide barely more standard.

  I had assumed that the listed focal lengths are true, but then I noticed Cannon describing a marked 50mm as a 'standard' lens, which would be the case for 35mm film, but not for a 22mm sensor.

  (Sorry to ask such a basic question.  I'm new to DSLR).

  -Ehz

  The focal length of the lens are real focal lengths.  They are the same regardless of the EF or EF - S.  Put on a crop sensor will reduce the field of VISION.  The 18-55 on a 70 d will include so something like would make him a 24-70 on a 35mm camera (technically, it would be like 28-88).

• Would be - a lens wide angle work here?

  Hello world! This is my first post and excuse that my ignorance, but I need to see if you guys could help me with something. I just bought a T3i and I have no photography or video production experience but I am really interested in getting my feet wet in these two areas.

  But anyway, I have a tripod and want to shoot my brother and I play tennis. I have always created the tripod at a considerable distance, but if we put in place in the Middle we can only film one side of the Court. A goal wide angle would be able to record both sides of the Court at the same time?

  Watch online examples of photos showing the angle of view.

  You could get a lens fisheye lens 180 degrees and sit right at the net but all objects other than those at the edge of the lens will appear quite small. Fisheye lenses also have effects strong enough curvature. In addition, there are two types of fisheye lenses... a guy makes a full frame, rectilinear image, while the other type restores a round image.

  While appearsimilar focal fisheye lens ultrawide, any given focal length a fisheye gives actually wider than a non-fisheye AOV. Canon now offers a for example 8-15mm fisheye zoom. But since it is designed for cameras full frame, it will be not too wide on your device at sensor crop (I don't have exact specifications for this on a crop sensor camera, only full frame specifications are listed). Tokina offers a zoom 10-17mm fisheye specifically designed for crop sensor cameras, and as such, it can make 180 degrees angle of view of your camera.

  A non-ultra wide angle fisheye will have less curvature distortion, but will always be some extremes and will be also less wide angle of view. For example, the EF-S 10-22mm lens is the widest available Canon, objective: give the AOV 107 in the setting of 10 mm. The wider non-fisheye lens made by any person for the use on your camera is the Sigma 8-16mm, which gives it a degree of 114 AOV is wider. With these lenses ultrawide perspective distortion even exaggerate perspective, more distant objects look very small compared to relatives... even if it is not as extreme as it is with a fisheye lens.

  If it's a one-shot deal and calls fisheye for you, because a fisheye is a rather specialized lens and you can watch in the rental of a lens for this purpose. Ultra wide-angle non-fisheye as the Canon 10-22 mm is often more widely useful, so maybe something you would find much more use for long term and want to buy as rent.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Vs 10-22mm EF - S 15-85mm

  I got some great responses and advice here, so I'm back for more ():

  Yet once, I just bought a Rebel T3i with the kit with 18-55mm lens. I recently asked some suggestions of lens to the subject that the majority when I take pictures of scenery, but I always take pictures like sports, portraits and cityscapes. In addition to this, I'll take a trip to Las Vegas and Los Angeles this summer, so one of my goals then there I made pictures of night the lights of the city. I have no knowledge on taking pictures at night, but I'll do some research and I'll try to learn everything quickly and efficiently.
  That being said, a lot of people here recommended that I get the lens EF-S 10-22mm lens. Others also recommended the EF-S 15-85mm lens. I studied the two lenses and they both seem perfect for the type of photos I take and I would like to buy both, but I'm a bit on a budget.
  Which I think is should I keep the kit 18-55mm lens and add the 10-22 mm, or turn it around and get the 15-85mm and more 18-55? or the third option and sell the kit 18-55mm lens and buys the 15-85mm?

  I don't like the combination 10-22mm and 15-85mm... With only a couple of lenses in your kit, it's too much overlap. If it were me, here's what I'd do...

  1. get the 10-22 mm USM (news of $650, $500 or less... most used lens hood $32 OEM 3rd party $ 20...) In total, 520 $ to $680)

  2. selling the 18-55 mm (you probably won't get much money for it, probably less than $100, depending on the version.) The IS is newere & better than the non - IS version. The STM & IS version is more recent and better than the version IS).

  3 buy a used EF 28-135 mm IS USM. There was so much of these sold in kit that they are pretty easy to find lightly used for about 200 $ to 250 $ US. This isn't really a kit lens, but an older design that still works fine. It competes with the much more expensive 24-105L ($1150 new, $700 + used) for performance and image quality, just is not as well built or sealed. I have two of these lenses... it cost me less than $200 with hood OEM. The other cost me $250 with OEM hood and a high-quality, filter 72mm (about $75 value).

  I'm pretty confident you could do everything above for well under $ 1,000 and have a quite versatile 2 lens kit. I think between $720 and $930, depending on how you buy and offers you find. If you sell your 18-55mm lens kit for a few dollars, which would reduce your total cost a bit. If I remember your previous posts, you had a budget of about $1000 total.

  If you also want a lens ' portrait/low light', add an EF 50/1.8 II for about $125. Or better yet, get an EF 50/1.4 USM, which sells for about $340 News (on sale currently at B & H Photo), $300 or less used. Add an another $ 15 to $ 26 for the sun visor ES - 71 II, if it was not included. (Note: with this lens, you must obtain and use the visor.) When he shot protects the front body of work. If it is kept in the reverse position, the hood covering and protecting the focus ring. This goal is known to have a fragile development mechanism, but seems to do just fine if he gave these protections normal and reasonable. He also recommended of is not to do a lot of manual focus the substitution of the AF with this lens. My copy of the lens is 10 years and still going.)

  The 50/1.8 II is a good entry level lens. It is capable of very beautiful images and a useful introduction to use a first large aperture lens. But it is very slightly built and plasticky and its autofocus is slow, noisy and somewhat contradictory. 50/1.4 has progressively better image quality, the differences are subtle, but there less flare, better contrast, saturation of the colors better, blurry background more pleasant. More importantly, it's AF is probably much better even if it's an old design and a hybrid of USM.

  The optical zoom combo above would give you enough in-depth coverage from 10mm to 135mm, which is actually more than most photographers film never appreciated with their SLRs in the good old days. Many of them had a 50mm with their camera lens, has added a wide angle of 28mm and zoom 70-210mm from the TV. It's a very common kit. On your T3i, 10mm to 135mm is equivalent to 16mm to 216mm on film/full frame.

  Now, I don't mind a bag of camera with some lenses. I do it all the time. However, you are traveling you may prefer to wear only a single lens, for convenience and simplicity. The EF-S 15-85mm USM IS would be a very good choice for this. It has a picture quality excellent and very good all around performance. It is a goal of $700 new, or about $550 used. The lens hood EW-78 that he sells for another $ 15 to $ 30.

  The 15-85mm is a lens very nice, quite wide at one end and portrait ideal coating short focal length telephoto lens at the other end of the zoom... There is a big difference between 10mm and 15mm wide. And 85mm is generally not going to be long enough for the sport. (135mm is better, but isn't really long enough way or the other, then either you should start saving for a longer lens).

  If you are in the United States, I would say looking at large retailers online (Amazon, B & H Photo, Adorama) new issues. Used for, those also to work, more there KEH in Atlanta. Also check out the Canon online store. He is sometimes handed to nine drinks there, too. Refurb and used from these sources usually come with some kind of guarantee. Sometimes, it is just as good as a new guarantee of the order of the day, other times it's a bit less time.

  On-site, for used items check on Craigslist... but be very careful. Only meet in a safe place (inside a hall of bank or busy coffee shop), grab your camera and test something to make sure it works, before giving money. There is no guarantee with the purchase of this way!

  A third possibility... If you don't have much use for it after your trip, you could rent a 10-22mm for those Vegas and visit. However, I think you have mentioned an interest in landscape photography and the current urban landscape, shooting... that I suggest that you will want to purchase to the objective rather than rent it.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• MACRO for CANON 70 d

  Hello, please I have a new Canon 70 d and I am a user of semi-professional hobby.

  Could you please recommend me a Macro lens to buy? Don't want the most expensive/professional but has some great ideas to create great photos of some insects and flowers.

  Thank you!

  I don't have a 'connection', but I can explain it well enough probably.

  If something is 1:1 scale (which means full scale) what it really means is the size of the image recorded on the sensor itself is the same size as the subject in real life.

  To give you an example from the real world, a penny in the United States has a diameter of 19mm.  The dimensions of the sensor on your 70 d are about 15mm of height of 22.5 mm wide.

  This means that if you took a picture of a US penny to the size of the scale 1:1, then the penny would simply * sentence * adjustment in the horizontal direction, but would fit in the dimension vertical (a little of the penny would be cropped).

  If the objective was only able to scale 1:2 (half), the penny would be would seem smaller.

  There is no strict definition of 'macro', but purists would generally not consider a goal like being a macro lens 'real' unless he could handle the 1:1 scale.  There are many uses General telephoto zoom lenses that have range macro (a claim asserted by the marketing department).  This close-up range generally allows a maximum size of 1:4 scale perhaps (and sometimes not even that great.)

  There is a whole world of close-up photography techniques and many techniques do not use a macro lens.

  Macro lenses generally tend to have detail particularly high ability to solve.

• Is it possible to use a 300 GB vraptor in a WF606PA

  Hey guys, I know that the laptop uses of 2.5 in hard drives, but I was wondering what size like trying to put in a VRAPTOR GLSF MODEL 2008 as the 2nd drive 300 GB WD that the icepack is 15 inches?

  Wikipedia

  "

  The fourth generation Raptor was announced by Western Digital in April 2008. The new drive is sold under the name ofVelociRaptor . [7] as well as increasing the capacity to 300 GB (spread over two 150 GB platters), the form factor is the following:

  • Models of GLSF - 2.5 "within a framework of IcePack 3.5" (used as a heat sink)
  • Models BFVS - 2.5 "to 3.5" redesigned IcePack with the right position of connector SATA (see below)
  • Models BLFS - 2.5 "nu (incompatible with laptops) drives

  Earlier models of GLSF have been criticized as being incompatible with hot swap SATA 3.5 "bays because of the position of the connectors. However, a new revision (models BFVS) was released which remedies this problem. [8] in addition, TLER enabled by default on models BFVS.

  Western Digital has released more late a 2.5 inch Velociraptor (model BLFS) which is virtually identical to the version 3.5 inches, but without the IcePack heat sink. These discs are designed for use in servers and are not suitable for laptops because of their power and 15 mm thick. TLER is also enabled by default on the BLFS models.

  A serious problem with the 4th generation of raptor drives was faulty firmware, causing the player to report TLER timeouts after about 50 days of continuous operation (precisely 49,71 days numbered in milliseconds, which is the overflow of a 32-bit number). [9] [10] [11] the bug was present in all models delivered units, their implementation until the end of 2009. WDC never admitted the existence of the bug, or officially published an update of the firmware. An update has been sunk by a WDC technician and is still easily available through various download sites. [12] the bug was of minor importance for desktop users, but the operation extended drive inRAID configurations could result in dropouts of mass by car after 49,71 days, causing maintenance problems and possible data loss. »

  Thank you

  Hello

  It is acually a HARD SATA II 2.5 drive "but I think that it is too thick (15mm) for a laptop HARD-drive Bay. For laptop, you can use 9.5 mm and less (currently 7mm is the standard).

  Kind regards.

• Component for browser, E-mail etc., slipped 20mm and 30mm on the left, preventing access to the "facilities" on the left and bottom of the screen. How to remedy?

  xxxxNOW I SEE WHAT I TYPE!  The last 'x' before the capital marks "n" the left hand of my screen!  For the 'mysterious' reasons, the pane has slipped down and to the left, leaving a margin of 15mm at the top and 30mm on the side right, revealing the underside of my desk.  This means that I cannot access the "facilities" such as topics, icons, arrows, etc. in the left side and cannot access the horizontal scroll down bar.  Please, how can I return it full screen?

  Hello

  Left click and hold high 1/2 "of the window and drag into place.

  Or do a Safe Mode system restore to before the problem started.

  http://bertk.MVPs.org/html/restoresysv.html

  http://www.computer-answers.info/maintenance/Vista/How_to_Use_System_Restore.php

  See you soon.

• Photosmart 5520 (but also others) duplex printing cleared at the bottom

  Very recently, I bought a Hp Photosmart 5520 and I found that sometimes the bottom of a page is cut off when printing double-sided. I looked in this forum and found that this problem is hardware related and can not be solved, but there are solutions. I did a few tests with my current setup and I want to share my discoveries, here for other users waiting for HP to add a FAQ for the photosmart 5520 entry. (but also for the 6520 and 7520, probably)

  The problem is clearly stated in a few messages, dating from September 2013 and Nov 2013, although it is not very easy to find

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/other-printing-questions/duplexing-discrepancy/m-p/2470573/highlight/tr...

  http://h30434.www3.HP.com/T5/scanning-faxing-and-copying/double-sided-printing-is-cut-off-short-Phot...

  Basically, the margin of the low printable area is 3mm side simple impression, while it is 15mm (at least!) for the first page, double-sided printing. This is due to the fact that the printer must keep the paper in the output roll after that that he finished printing the first page. It is therefore IMPOSSIBLE to duplex - print a document with text or graphics that extends beyond the margin of the lower 15 mm, unless the page size is reduced so that the effective bottom margin is 15 mm. On the other hand, if the document does not contain text or graphics beyond bottom margin of 15 mm it CAN be printed double-sided without reduction.

  IMHO, the problem is that the default behavior of the firmware of the printer, the drivers of operating system and/or applications do not always properly address this limitation leading to surprising or unsatisfactory results.

  To better understand the limits and behavior of the printer, I have carried out tests under the following conditions:

  (1) copy 2-sided vs 1-side in the printer display

  (2) Windows 7 applications: Word2010, Foxit PDF reader, Acrobat PDF reader

  (3) 4.3 android: Cloud Print and HP ePrint apps

  The firmware in the printer is MGP5CN1351AR (Sep 12, 2013)

  The windows version of printer drivers is 28.8 (October 30, 2012)

  For tests 2 and 3, I have prepared a document word of 2 pages with headers and footers located exactly at 15 mm of margin top and bottom of the page and I have produced a PDF with CutePDF (unfortunately this forum does not allow attachments, otherwise I would have attached it).

  The results were as follows

  (1) in 2-sided copy the last 15 mm on part and on the other copy of the output are empty, even if the text of the content entry page, while, in 1-sided copy only the last 3 mm are empty (resizing is turned off, of course)

  (2) double-sided printed of Word2010 gives a duplexer not resized when the printing preferences, advanced options, "Arrangement" is disabled. If it is set on, the output is reduced. Print PDF files is tricky: there are several different options in Foxit PDF and acrobat PDF. Auto-Centre and adjustment - on the page to print double-sided, but do not keep the right size in Foxit PDF reader; If preserve layout is off a significant part of the bottom of the page is not printed, apparently due to the fact that the margins are not properly managed by foxit PDF. Acrobat PDF instead, leave a good impression both sides preserve the page layout and scaling are disabled (obviously up to 15 mm).

  (3) android Cloud Print prints the word and pdf files WITHOUT a provision to 'preserve', this is why some clipping may occur; HP ePrint prints two word files and pdf reduced in size, as if "preserve layout" option has been set.

  In summary, I'll leave the "preserve layout" options always on in windows and I'll take a cut on the side of double-sided printing and I use hp eprint instead of cloudprint. If the correct size is important to a PDF file, it is best to experiment with Acrobat PDF (even if it is not a light program). iI would be expected at HP improved the behavior of the windows printer drivers to print a PDF file.

  I hope that this post may be useful to other people.

  You are right, that the effective page size is reduced because of the extra margins required to manage the document in automatic duplex mode.  From the rear is donated in the printer from the bottom and bottom printed in the top margin is also higher top for the back to the front.

  The checkbox 'Keep the page layout' is important for results appropriate, although it will reduce the effective print size.

  I've seen reports before of Foxit PDF printing problems, I avoid and use Adobe Reader.