18-55mm or 18-135mm lens?

Similar Questions

• Canon Flash 430EX 11 to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens.

  I bought a Canon 430EX 11 Flash to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens. Flash displays the icon confirming the auto zoom only intermittent and when it isn't, twist the zoom of the camera does not appear on the screen of the flash.  The batteries are charged and the flash is locked on the camera.

  I'm not entirely sure I understand your question.  The 430EX II has can be put in a mode where it automatically follows the camera zoom (within the limits... 24 mm to 105 mm), but you can ALSO put it in a mode where you manually control the zoom flash.  If it's in the manual control mode, so it won't automatically zoom.

  It is important that the 'broad' Panel not in use (if you go out and go back to the bottom of the Panel then flash will go to wide angle and zoom not EVEN if it was in auto mode.)

  Press the Zoom button, then use the - / + keys to change the zoom.

  When under manual control, there is a black "M" icon that appears the word "Zoom".  If the "M" is not present then it is auto zoom mode.

  Finally... When you change the zoom on the camera lens, generally nothing will happen on the flash UNTIL you wake up the system by doing a half - press the shutter button.    When the camera wakes up to the meter and focus... it is when she allows to set the zoom on the flash head.

• New T5i w / 18mm to 135mm lens Pop Up flash question?

  Hi all:

  I just got my new T5i rebel with the 18mm to 135 mm lens. I use a filter UV Polaroid and lens hood EW-73 b. I take excellent photos, but I wonder if it is having a problem.

  My problem is the sometimes the flash will pop up and flash in full sun. It can be the focal distance at the time. The T4i there this problem or is it a problem?

  Happy to be a new Member to the form

  Thank you

  Chip50

  Canon SureShot 5; New on DSRL rebel T5i

  Hi hsbn:

  Tthank you for the answer. In fact, I was in the landscape or fully automatic firing Mode. One of the shots I was in one of the two formentioned mode, at 135 mm with a white wall on my left. In another shot, I took another shot in the open landscape and the flash popped up. I'll try again this weekend and try the different modes and I get results. And thank you, I have always appreciated the assistance.

  Chip50

• Zoom lens combination as an alternative to the 18-55mm and 55-250mm lens for my T3i?

  I have a T3i with 18-55mm and 55-250mm objectives.  Switching lenses visits is a nuisance.  The shorter one is required for pictures close to the museums, galleries, blocked sites, ourselves and our friends, etc.  Longer lenses are useful for many city outdoor and rural/mountain shots.  Is there a combination priced zoom that I should consider?  Y at - it somewhere that I can sell my current lenses.  My T3i and lenses are less than a year.  Thank you.

  There are a lot of options out there for "superzooms" If that's what you're looking for.  This is a decent article on them, and to explain some of the advantages and disadvantages:

  http://www.TechRadar.com/us/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/best-superzoom-for-Canon-DSLRs-8-...

  I see a lot of recommendations for http://www.fredmiranda.com/ to buy and sell used.  But I know you are going to get much for those kit lenses.  Can be difficult to find a buyer, but you never know.

• Should I spend an EFS 18-55mm on a Canon EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM for landscapes? With the help of a Rebel T3i

  Only done photography for about a year. Wife bought me a Rebel T3i Kit with two Lenes. I'm really into photography outdoor. I installed myEFS 55-250 in a series of 100-400mm L I was going to buy a better lens for landscape and try to keep less than $1000. I think EF 17-40mm f / 4L USM. Better landscapes or is there a better choce range of price thanks

  I would not recommend the EF 17-40mm for your T3i. The EF 17-40mm is really designed to be used as a goal of the ultra wide angle on Full Frame cameras. One of the major is the lack of IS. (Image stabilization)

  For a camera of culture as the T3i, I recommend:

  Lens EF - S 18-55mm IS STM (very good upgrade to the 18-55 kit lens)

  Lens EF - S 18-135mm IS STM

  EF-S 15-85mm IS lens

  EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS lens

  EF-S 10-22mm (without IS, but Ultra-Wide) lens

• Info sought for lens marked ' CANON LENS EF 50 mm 1: 1.8.

  I'm new to the Canon. The camera is 40 d. Have a 18-135mm lens. Bought EF 50 mm 1: 1.8 lens used. Very good condition. I'm trying to find info on this goal.

  As to this subject?

  There were several versions of this goal. Here are the standard Cannon for more stuff later:

  https://www.USA.Canon.com/Internet/portal/us/home/products/details/lenses/EF/standard-medium-telepho...

  Here is an article that goes into history:

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18-stm.htm

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18.htm

  http://www.kenrockwell.com/Canon/lenses/50mm-F18-EF.htm

  So it depends on how old your is. The optics are all pretty much the same, they vary mainly in development and the lens mount.

• purpose of the kit 18-55 mm lens for my T3i

  My kit 18-55mm for my T3i lens not autofocus just after using for only a year. It is repairable?

  If you are sure that it is broken, I would not bother to repair that you can buy a good opportunity for less than a repair costs.

  If you decide to buy one, try to get the latest version of 'STM' because it is a very nice improvement on older versions.  All least make sure you get the version 'IS' or 'IS II' as they have Stabiliztion of the Image and the better optics than older versions without IS.

• Format of the crop sensor / subject remotely / calibration full AOV equivalent framework

  While using the crop sensor format, how can we adjust the distance of subjects to have the same field of view (AOV) in return, full frame, assuming that the current focal length in use has already been evaluated in order to take into account the standard of 35 mm film? I have the EOS Rebel SL1.

  character_stops wrote:

  Yes. I'm sure that the camera I have is the smallest format. That's why I think I need to experiment with several lenses to see how everyone reacts. I think that the format of my camera is 2 x 3, but I'm not completely sure.  After my image size more great cameras in Ps, I chose a preset of the photo, and it converted to 2 x 3 inches. Would this mean a culture factor much more than 7.5?

  Do not confuse "cropping" in Photoshop with the "culture lens/sensor factors" for your camera.

  Photoshop (and many other software image) have a number of current relationships preset image for purposes of culture aspectg. Choice 2:3 in Photoshop will make the area of the whole image that is produced by your camera. Then, you can resize a number of common paper sizes... 4 x 6 inches, 6 x 9, 8 x 12 inch and 12 x 18 (or 13 x 19) inch... that all share the same images of proportions.

  If you choose rather the proportions 4:5 in the truncation of software tool, some of the longest axis of the image will be deleted off the coast, but you can then resize the image to fit other common paper sizes such as 4 "x 5", 8 x 10 inch, 16 x 20 inches.

  There are also a few formats of common paper who don't exactly conform to one pre-defined aspect ratios, for example 5 x 7 inch and 11 x 14 inches. These are somewhere between the two.

  Your camera has a ratio of 2:3 (not 2 x 3). This has been fairly uniform among the 35mm film SLRs and was postponed to digital, too (for the large part... There are a few exceptions). The actual size of your camera sensor is approximately 15x22mm. The so-called "full frame" cameras also have a 2:3 format... is about the actual size of their 24x36mm sensor.

  In other words, the same proportion (IE ' side short vs long side ") is possible in different sizes (both in the sensor format or the movie... and printing of paper sizes). Don't worry too much on this subject the reference to large format... Which seemed to have been mentioned just to demonstrate that there are all kinds of "lens factors" that you can get caught up in the calculation, but this does not really much.

  Focal length does not change. 50mm is 50mm no matter what.

  But a 50mm lens on a format behaves differently than it does on another format. On your camera with sensor 15x22mm is a 50mm focal length lens acts as a nice "short telephoto.  Put the same focal exact on a digital point-n-shoot which has a very small sensor and it can behave as a very powerful, long telephoto.  If not, put this same 50mm on a digital camera to 'full frame' and it will act as a 'standard' lens (that is, not wide or Telephoto). Or, put this same 50mm on a camera film of medium format, which has an image 60x70mm area and this will be a lens wide angle. Finally, put it on a film camera of large format as a 4 x 5 (... equal to approximately 100x125mm inches) and the same focal length of 50 mm behaves like an extreme wide-angle.

  You say you have a kit lens... I guess it's a zoom. Probably an EF-S 18-55mm lens and an EF-S 18-135mm lens. You also have a 50mm 'first' (not a zoom) EF lens. If you set the zoom EF-S 50mm it will give exactly the same angle of view as the lens EF 50 mm Prime. The only difference is that the EF-S lens is specifically designed for smaller sensor cameras, while the EF lens is designed to give an image circle large enough to cover the area from a towards full frame camera.

  Yes, it is true, because they do not need to produce as big a circle frame EF-S or "cultures only" lenses designed for use on small photo sensor can be smaller in size, lighter and less expensive than the lenses made to cover the full frame sensor image area.

  If your kit lens is a 18-55mm, on your camera that provides a variable angle of view ranging from the wide-angle moderate standard to short telephoto. If it's a 18-135mm kit lens, which gives a little wider TV, a moderate telephoto.

  I hope that makes sense!

• Canon t5i, 50mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.8?

  Hey guys im new SLR digital. I recently bought my Canon Rebel t5i with the 18-135mm lens. Now, I want to upgrade a little to take pictures of family, etc.. I don't have to buy the 50mm f1.4 or the 85mm 1.8 Please help.

  I think you'll like both... a 29mm lens provides a 'normal' angle of view (neither wide nor TV)... so the two are a bit in the TV category.  The 85mm will be closer to the point where you need to go back further to frame a shot and for use indoors, it may be narrower than what you want.  Both offer a very nice quality to the blurred background.

  A 85mm will provide liked blur the same... opening value but the 50mm will be a little more versatile for indoor use (since you do not going back quite so far in order to frame the shot.)

  You can go to pixelpeeper.com to draw the sample images (they index Flickr images as long as the image has EXIF data camera & lens in there).

  You could also rent to see than what you prefer.

• First Pro CC with Canon T6s workflow

  My name is Joe Hamm. I'm a jazz musician and become a filmmaker as well. I made a short documentary film which has contributed to my organization and my area sell to potential donors and build boards. I made this film using all material borrowed and learned from watching a lot of documentaries and to spend time on YouTube tutorials to learn editing techniques.

  Most of this was shot with a Canon XA10 I borrowed.

  Beyond the music: soundscapes, El Sistema and the power of music - YouTube

  Since then, I received requests for making movies for similar programs throughout the country. To reduce my costs, I finally bought a Canon T6s and am currently training on the subject. Soon I will start making movies again with the highest quality, that I was never able to accomplish.

  Here's my current workflow. I'd appreciate your comments to help me improve the quality of the image.

  Canon T6s, 18-135mm lens. Shooting at 23.98 FPS, FHD 1920 x 1080

  1. capture video sequences

  2. slide the MP4 files to Video folder on hard drive

  3. import into Media Encoder and convert to ProRes 422 (LT)

  4 import. In first Pro CC MOV files

  5 merge audio recordings and replace audio source

  6 edit

  7. apply the color corrections

  8. export to YouTube 1080

  9 download on YouTube

  Thanks for your ideas and your recommendations!

  You have a good start. I don't know how 'our' ideas will improve the quality of the image, but "we" can certainly help not the time it takes to go from 1 to 9 on your list.

  For your projects, I might suggest using prelude on ingestion... you could navigate to the media card reader, rub it to make sure what you want really... then set up a quick process to rename the clips for a work, copy the renamed original media to archive or backup file, transcode the same renowned media in your folder of work and of course add metadata at the same time you have need. ProRes422 (LT) is a correct choice for transcoding, but I might suggest Cineform 10-bit YUV... it's totally Visual lossless (especially with the media you use) and FLEET through the CPU used when editing.

  The sound that you have on your example is pretty decent... nice work. Most people get obsessed with pictures... and then find that without good sound, you might as well fuhgedaboudit. Good solid and adequate image is ok... Imaging good and bad sound is just useless. Don't know how you have managed this, but it's quite nice. Quite often the process is to get your low edit including say noise belonging to sections of voice-over added separately or used cams, and all the time that you have 'Edit locking' you send sound or hearing to do the necessary cleaning for sound media used.

  At roughly the time this color correction/grading themselves. Once again, only for the media on the final sequence.

  My only thought about the quality of the image... it's the 18-135 lens is convenient, but not necessarily the most beautiful image-creator you can get hold of.

  Neil

• 18-55mm of an old XTi lens: need to upgrade for image stabilization?

  I have a lens EFS 18-55 m supplied with an old Canon Rebel XTi (from 2006?) I'm looking to upgrade to a new body, but I don't know if I have to / should upgrade the goal too.

  My main concern is this old lens has image stabilization, or if the new lenses are much better image stabilization (enough to justify an upgrade to a new lens.) Anyone know?

  Thanks in advance!

  The reason IS is valuable on this focal length is, it is so slow that anyone holding going to need all the help they can get.  They are OK for light of day but go inside and a slow lens needs help.

  I would buy the new version of the EF-S 18-55mm STM with IS.  Especially in the kit as it is a good deal.  Not only a goal faster when we focus, the optics are better, too.

• Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3. 5 - 5.6 IS STM will not mount on camera 6 d

  Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3. 5 - 5.6 lens of the STM will not go up on camera 6 d.

  You must understand the relationship between your 18-55 lens & how it acts on the bodies of harvest that it was designed to adapt. It has a smaller path of light because the harvest have a small sensor & gives a similar ratio of the image of what a lens 1.6 times more time on a full body frame. It is not a full frame 18-55, but if there was it would be 18 X 1.6, which is 28 mm to 55 X 1.6 = 88 mm so you would look to about a 28-90 lens, BUT it will be physically larger & heavier.

  It also helps explain it a little.

  http://forums.USA.Canon.com/T5/lenses/using-a-lens-designed-for-crop-bodies-on-full-frame-samples/m-...

• My EFS 18-55mm lens will work on a T3i?

  I have a camera with a 18-55mm EFS DS6041. I want to upgrade to the T3i and found a good deal on Amazon for the body only. Can I use this lens with the T3i or what I need to get a new one? I can't find any info online when I search. I guess Yes, but I would like to know before ordering.

  YES. This camera uses the EF & EF-S mount lenses.

• Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens profile Correction STM

  I'm relatively new to Lightroom and have not yet found the answer to my question in the forums. I use a Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens of STM IS, but the correction lens profile is not available in the list in my version of Lightroom (2015.6).

  Can someone tell (1) me How to download the profileand (2), help me in creating the profile manually? I need also to the EF 50 mm f/1.8 VTS, if possible! Thanks in advance!

  

  

  These lens profiles already exist, but lens profiles correspond to raw files (.) CR2 for your camera brand), only in general, including for the two lenses you ask about.  Here are some of the profiles that you see when you select a CR2 file:

  

• the upgrade, what that lens should I buy?

  Photography started as a hobby for me, but now that I've built skills and experience I want to make a trade. The camera first, I bought was a Rebel T3, but I'm looking into upgrading to a Canon 5 d mark ii. I have 3 lenses - an EF 50 mm 1.4 and the EF 70-200mm kit EF-S 18-55mm kit. I really love with my 18-55mm, but I know I won't be able to use it on the camera full frame. What is a good full frame lens which is a bit like the 18-55mm. I do not have a budget and I love the canon EF 16-35mm, but it is much too expensive. I think about $500. Thank you!!

  If you are looking to brand Canon lenses, there are four that come to mind, but two that you can be able to get something close to your price range.

  The EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L is out of the range of $500 - it's probably not.

  There are also new version EF 24-70mm f / 4 L - but even the version of f/4 is well out of the price range.

  The EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM will be in the price range of $500 even if purchased as 'new '.  I haven't personally used this objective then you should check the comments.

  However... the EF 24-105mm f / 4L IS USM is a goal that the 'new' retail price is outside your range, but you can often find deals on this goal... often just simply about $600 for a lens that is technically "used" but you can think of it as 'new '.

  The 24-105mm is the included "kit" lens when someone wants to, say, a body kit + 5 d III objectives.  But when I bought my 5 d III, I was unable to find a retailer that had the "body only" version of the package.  The seller sold me camera is a 'body only' and removed the "kit" of the lens (so my package is for an objective body + kit) and then "put white in a box" the goal to be sold separately.  If you look at the prices for a 5 d III 'body only' compared to a kit 'body + lens', the price difference (the last time I checked... I don't happen to be looking right now) was only about $550.

  So, there are many people who will sell this lens for about $600.