Canon EF 70-210mm F/4.0 Macro Zoom Lens

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• Canon Zoom lens

  Hello world

  wish you all agreat day,

  After the Suggestions in this forum for my camera so my first goal... Thanks guys I bougth the Canon 6 d and bought the Canon 17-40 photos of couple in my first Attcched lens...

  Now I'm looking for a zoom lens, any suggestions? with good quality / mony? Honestly I do not put a budget for it still don't intend to but something so dear, my favorate style is architecture & urban landscape, but some times I may need a zoom so out for some shots my need more than what I have now (canon 17-40).

  Thanks for the passage & thank you for the support.

  Concerning

  

  But what would you use for?  That tells you what focal length to get.

  You already have the range of 17 to 40 covered. Which can be used for your walk around lens that it stops a little short for this to 40 mm. I use a 35mm Prime than my walk around and I Zoom with my feet so I think you can also.

  For a standard telephoto lens that is the EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS Mk 2.  In the United States, he sells between $1 800.00 and $300.00 2.  It's a fantastic lens. Sharp. Many colors. Ideal in low light. Great bokeh. And the focal range is very usable on a full camera frame. Not often is too long to be useful.

  If you need a longer telephoto let us know and people can suggest lenses longer but the good ones cost dear and you can also lose the opening f/2.8 nice if you get a telephoto lens more long. Unless you really spend a lot on a 300 mm f/2.8 or 400 mm.

• Canon Flash 430EX 11 to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens.

  I bought a Canon 430EX 11 Flash to go with my Canon EOS camera D 70 with a 18-135mm lens. Flash displays the icon confirming the auto zoom only intermittent and when it isn't, twist the zoom of the camera does not appear on the screen of the flash.  The batteries are charged and the flash is locked on the camera.

  I'm not entirely sure I understand your question.  The 430EX II has can be put in a mode where it automatically follows the camera zoom (within the limits... 24 mm to 105 mm), but you can ALSO put it in a mode where you manually control the zoom flash.  If it's in the manual control mode, so it won't automatically zoom.

  It is important that the 'broad' Panel not in use (if you go out and go back to the bottom of the Panel then flash will go to wide angle and zoom not EVEN if it was in auto mode.)

  Press the Zoom button, then use the - / + keys to change the zoom.

  When under manual control, there is a black "M" icon that appears the word "Zoom".  If the "M" is not present then it is auto zoom mode.

  Finally... When you change the zoom on the camera lens, generally nothing will happen on the flash UNTIL you wake up the system by doing a half - press the shutter button.    When the camera wakes up to the meter and focus... it is when she allows to set the zoom on the flash head.

• Canon 18-200mm zoom lens

  I'm new here.  I have a Canon T3i.  Two kit lenses came with it in a bundle... 18-55mm, 55-250mm.  I am considering getting the Canon 18-200mm.  Would be the Canon 18-200mm is a good choice to replace the two lenses, or are there better choices to replace them with and keep the 18-200mm too?

  I wouldn't buy one for several reasons.  The one above all, it is more difficult to zoom, when the zoom range becomes very extreme.  18-200 is a 11 x scope and very ambitious to say the least. Not only in mind but in build quality, too. It will be in the same level of quality that the two glasses, the only advantage is to have just a lens so you.  Is that what you need? The superior advantage of a digital SLR is the possibility of having the right lens for the good work.  This implies usually several different lenses.  So you will be defeated this concept a little!

  I'd rather see you get a different level of lens for example IS the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 USM Lens.  Directly by replacing your 18-55mm kit lens. Of course, it is in the case where you have does not work for you. But this approach is better built, better optics and a little more quickly the objective that can be very useful.  Don't get me wrong the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens is a very good lens and offers a constant aperture.  A great plus in my book.

  Unfortunately these lens upgrades are expensive and replacing the 55-250mm is going to be even more.

• The zoom lens compatibility

  I have an EOS REBEL G and want to know if a vivitar 75-205 macro zoom lens 22005946 No. is going to work on it.

  If you are looking at a manual focus zoom Vivitar 75-205mm F3. 8 - f4.8... This was done for the old Canon FD lens mount used on FTb, AE-1, a-1, F-1, etc. of the cameras... Serial number #22xxxxxxx you mention strongly suggests he is a FD lens, made by Kiron for Vivitar. If this is the case, it's probably a very nice lens, but...

  No, which cannot be used on any EOS camera (film or digital). These all use the modern EF mount.

  I did a search and did not find any Vivitar 75-205mm in the modern mount. So I think that what you're watching is the old FD mount and the answer is 'no' (this is probably why it's so cheap).

  EDIT: there is a 75-300mm lens Canon EF that sells expensive and will work on a g of rebels. It is not the best lens optically or for general performance, but it is one of the lowest cost since this seems to be your biggest concern. This can be purchased for as little as $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-III-Telephoto-Packaging/dp/B00GEE8I1Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=13910997...). You might be able to find it for less used.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 fits my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  The lens Canon Macro 60 mm f2.8 work on my Canon EOS Rebel SL1?

  Yes.  It's a lens EF - S (EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens)

  The SL1 Rebel can use almost any lens Canon EOS... regardless of EF-S vs EF.  He can even use the TS-E and MP-E lenses.

  Lenses which does not take your camera are the "EF - M" lenses (there are two of them at last I checked).  Those who are made to the 'mirrorless' body of Canon, which is not sold in North America.

• Best first lens for macro photography wide angle

  I am looking for more information on using lenses wide angle and tube extension to close to the top of the photograph.  The images will be used to capture the surface contours using PhotoModeler software.  This requires the use of a first goal.  I bought a 60mm Canon macro lens, but focal length is a bit long and surface data contain a lot of noise because the light rays are nearly parallel.  The target area containing reference marks, who must fill the area of the image of my 7 d is about 1.5 "square and the topics, located in the Center, are usually smaller than 0.75".  I'm looking for the 20 mm gun (or a 24 mm lens) for use with extension tubes.  Someone with experience with these lenses in close-up photography?  If so, what depth of field could hope for.

  I will propose a tilt shift lens and series II Canon 24 mm or one attachment bellows with a lens in the 35mm range.

• Macro lens EOS T3i not turn or focus

  On my Canon EOS Rebel T3i, when I place the macro on the camera lens, it does not or focus (manually or automatically, if it is in auto or manual focus), almost like it is stuck. The zoom for the functions of this camera lens, normally when it is attached so I think it's a problem with the lens itself. Is there anything else I can try or is broken for good lens?

  Take a look at the solution in the following thread posted by Canon product Expert Julius.

  http://community.USA.Canon.com/T5/lenses/autofocus-not-working-18-55mm-lens/m-p/138114#U138114

  [EDIT]  This isn't a target macro, BTW.  The word 'macro' appears on the lens body to tell you what the MFD, minimum Distance of focus, or macro distance, is for this particular goal.

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• How to add a mic on Canon EOS 1200D?

  Hello

  I belong to the consumer of the Canon EOS 1200D with EF 18-55 MM Kit lens. I noticed that it doesn't have an audio input. However, I like to record the audio of my table mixer and video of my digital SLR simultaneeously without video editing. Is it possible to add an audio input to the camera?

  Thank you

  Negative results.  You must save your audio separately and then use video editing.  Use a digital slate on audio and video synchronization.

• How to make a macro with a goal photos 50 mm f1.8 Prime

  How to make a photos of macro with a prime lens 50 mm f1.8 lens is labeled macro, but only makes farm ups.

  A "true" macro lens allows to approach quite close to your subject that the size of the image on your sensor is larger than what is in real life.

  For example: your sensor is "roughly" 14 x 21 mm.  A penny in the United States has a diameter of 19mm.  This means with a real purpose of macro scale '1:1 ', you could get close enough to the penny the edges of upper and lower of the penny does not fit in the frame (the will of sides... barely.)

  There are a number of ways of "close-up" photography.

  (1) buy a "real" macro lens  The EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens is fantastic and also good enough prices.  A 'real' macro lens will provide the highest quality of image.

  (2) buy "extension tubes".  These committed between the casing and the lens, but they are hollow (there is no element of glass in them but they have electronic contacts so that the lens and the body can still communicate.)  By moving the furthest lens to the focal plane, the range of the lens is considerably reduced.  This allows you to get much closer that otherwise would be possibe.

  (3) use diopters "close up".  Here's the screw on filters that you screw on the end of your lens.  They provide a larger/more close to your subject.  The disadvantage of these, it is that they can show distortion near the edges of the image.

  (4) use a ring of "Recoil".  It is a ring that allows you to mount your lens on the camera body... back.  The screws on the front of the lens (where you would normally be screw on filters), but a bayonet mount on the other side, so you can connect it to the camera.  Using the lens 'backwards', you can get much clsoer.  The downside is that you can't control the lens.  Development is manual and you cannot change the opening.

• Canon lens EF 28-90mm f/4-5, 6 lll

  I think to buy a Canon EF 28-90mm f/4-5, 6 lll lens. How compatible is the EOS Rebel T3i? Thank you for your time.

  It is compatible, but I don't know how good it is. The camera accepts EF & EF-S objectives & it's an EF mount.

• Is there a digital zoom on the Canon Rebel T5?

  I realize it has optical zoom turning the lens on my Canon Rebel T5, but I like the digital zoom shots as well. My older Powershot a digital and optical zoom shooting. I expected the rebel T5 having two institutions. I have to be able to zoom more than the 55 mm provides? Recommendations for a better zoom lens? Digital zoom is on this other than cropping model after?

  No on both lenses. But sells Canon, a 18-200mm lens, and you can get third 18-270mm lens that will give you this range of zoom with unique to the camera lens.

• New to the Canon family

  Hello

  I am new to the family of canon, I bought the Canon rebel t5 with the kit with 18-55mm lens. I read the manuals and the tutorals video on the canon Web site. I bought the camera as a hobby and to capture family memories. I'm small looking more tips that aren't on the manuals and video tutorials, I would like to take pictures at a basketball game, but understand it would be difficult with the game until you have. Y at - it advice or suggestions to get the best out of the establishment I have without purchasing new equipment until I'm comfortable with the set - up that I currently have?

  Thank you

  The Rebel series is entry level Canon DSLR product online, and the T5 is a less recommended rebel. It costs a tenth of the lighthouse 1DX, then of course there are compromises. It is certainly not a terrible DSLR.

  For family events, travel, landscapes, he is certainly capable. Action at high speed and low light will be a challenge.

• Canon XF 100HD or Canon EOS 7 d?

  Good friends

  I had a JVC HDY U100 camcorder and I used it to turn some music videos, short, I sold it, I was not very satisfied with the quality of this one, I used several parameters and the ways to take 5 mins songs, but I finished not very satisfied, I used HD30p (720 p) and SD, but at the end I noticed that my Sony PD170 does better than my JVC.

  Now I plan to buy a new camera, I thinking about buying the new Canon XF100 or Canon D7 (although XF100 may are not yet out)

  All I use is for short video clips, obviously I'll shoot HD for YT and etc, but ultimately I have to convert back to the DD.

  The 2 models sounds good or you might have a suggestions.

  Any help or ideas will be appreciated!

  It's a zoom lens, then yes it can zoom in and out.

  On SLR zoom is controlled by the lens itself is not as if the camera could not simply to prevent zoom in video mode, then it is all manual, Yes when shooting video, you will be able to zoom in and out as you please.