Canon Zoom lens

Similar Questions

• The zoom lens compatibility

  I have an EOS REBEL G and want to know if a vivitar 75-205 macro zoom lens 22005946 No. is going to work on it.

  If you are looking at a manual focus zoom Vivitar 75-205mm F3. 8 - f4.8... This was done for the old Canon FD lens mount used on FTb, AE-1, a-1, F-1, etc. of the cameras... Serial number #22xxxxxxx you mention strongly suggests he is a FD lens, made by Kiron for Vivitar. If this is the case, it's probably a very nice lens, but...

  No, which cannot be used on any EOS camera (film or digital). These all use the modern EF mount.

  I did a search and did not find any Vivitar 75-205mm in the modern mount. So I think that what you're watching is the old FD mount and the answer is 'no' (this is probably why it's so cheap).

  EDIT: there is a 75-300mm lens Canon EF that sells expensive and will work on a g of rebels. It is not the best lens optically or for general performance, but it is one of the lowest cost since this seems to be your biggest concern. This can be purchased for as little as $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-III-Telephoto-Packaging/dp/B00GEE8I1Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=13910997...). You might be able to find it for less used.

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Filter for Canon L lens

  I just got my first Canon L lens and after some research, I decided not to buy a UV filter as protection for the front glass element.  Then I can read the presentation (B & H) for the EF 16-45 mm F/4 L, which States that "when paired with an optional filter to Protect, this lens also features a dust and water resistant construction for use under adverse conditions. So now I'm confused: why a $1,200 L lens does need a "Protect filter? By "adverse conditions", what do mean?  Should all lenses L be fitted with a protective filter?  What would be a 'protective filter' recommended?  I'd appreciate some advice on this because I want to protect my investment in my L lens and consider making a recommended.

  Some 'L' series lenses are waterproof.  If you see a black silicone gasket to the mounting flange back, then chances are it's a goal and waterproof.  But you have to read the instructions for each specific objective know what it means.  A few lenses indicates that they are only waterproof only if a protection filter is attached.

  Weather sealing means that the lens is usually sealed against dust, rain and spray - but it is important to remember that this does NOT mean that the lens is "tight".  They are not sealed against water under pressure.  If you blast it with a spear of fire... you will probably get water inside.  Similarly, they will flee if submerged.  There is "underwater camera housings" available when you need the camera & the goal of being ready to go under the water.

  Furthermore, just because a lens is weather-sealed does not mean that the body of the camera is waterproof.  Only some camera body get weather sealing and the level of treatment varies.  Usually, intermediate and superior camera tend to have at least one treatment of the weather sealing, but even in this case, there are some obvious gaps.  The door of the memory card and battery door are two examples of places that have no weather seals.

  Other than that... There are a few downsides to having a UV filter.

  First of all, the camera has an internal UV filter, so the second filter does not really offer help in this Department.

  Second, a flat glass filter, it is able to create nice reflections that can be seen by the camera.  This can create 'ghosts' reflections and other effects undesirable undersireable.  The use of filters with anti-glare coatings will substantially reduce this problem, but these filters cost a bit more.  Also, they will simply 'reduce' substantial reflections but do not guarantee that you get no thoughts at all.

  The glass itself is durable enough.  Be gentle with it when clean you and you will never have a problem (use a soft 'clean' microfibre cloth).  The sun visor (even if you are not trying to protect from the glare) actually helps keep something striking the glass.  The hood is probably better protection than a UV filter.

• CS4 - magnify or tool of the Zoom lens?

  I need to create a "magnifying glass effect" on a part of a drawing. I found a tutorial explaining a tool in CorelDraw (lens magnify) which does exactly what I need to do. However, I was not able to find this tool/effect AI CS4.

  Can someone tell me if such a tool exists in CS4? If it is not a tool specifically designed for this, are there free or inexpensive plugins that can do? In the absence of such, tutorials or tips on how to do it?

  Thank you!!

  Sean

  Wow, I'm not so sure that I want to tell you how I could do that in Illustrator considering how the Mag in Corel Draw tool is cool.

  But here we are. Copy the layer any of the art (Option drag the layer to the layer icon Add in the layers panel) draw a circle in the place that you want to zoom, make sure that the circle is the first element more in the new layer. Click the icon at the bottom of the layers panel clipping mask. This should hide all on this layer except for the items in the circle you drew. Select now all on this layer by clicking on the ball of meat for that layer in the layers panel (the point on the right side of the layer in the layers panel) this should select all the elements on this layer. Now use the effects > distort and Transform > Transform to compensate for the circle of mag where you want.

  There is no tool like Corel Draw zoom lens or magnifying glass. However, would be an interesting feature request.

• Canon 18-200mm zoom lens

  I'm new here.  I have a Canon T3i.  Two kit lenses came with it in a bundle... 18-55mm, 55-250mm.  I am considering getting the Canon 18-200mm.  Would be the Canon 18-200mm is a good choice to replace the two lenses, or are there better choices to replace them with and keep the 18-200mm too?

  I wouldn't buy one for several reasons.  The one above all, it is more difficult to zoom, when the zoom range becomes very extreme.  18-200 is a 11 x scope and very ambitious to say the least. Not only in mind but in build quality, too. It will be in the same level of quality that the two glasses, the only advantage is to have just a lens so you.  Is that what you need? The superior advantage of a digital SLR is the possibility of having the right lens for the good work.  This implies usually several different lenses.  So you will be defeated this concept a little!

  I'd rather see you get a different level of lens for example IS the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 USM Lens.  Directly by replacing your 18-55mm kit lens. Of course, it is in the case where you have does not work for you. But this approach is better built, better optics and a little more quickly the objective that can be very useful.  Don't get me wrong the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens is a very good lens and offers a constant aperture.  A great plus in my book.

  Unfortunately these lens upgrades are expensive and replacing the 55-250mm is going to be even more.

• Canon EF 70-210mm F/4.0 Macro Zoom Lens

  A Canon EF 70-210mm lens Zoom Macro F/4.0 is already used on a Canon EOS 630 is usable on modern SLRS like the Canon 6 d?

  should work the same, BUT it is perhaps not as optically perfect like new lenses. With film, you were not able to expand your negatives in the same way you can with a digital file using your monitor to display 100%. Some like to do that but in the real world, when you print that big with excellent results.

• Need to zoom lens

  I have a Canon Rebel t3i & I was wondering what would be the best lens to buy for the zoom. Any help will be greatly apperciated! TIA

  You did not get the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens of STM with your T3i?  Yes, you have a zoom. So, do you want a telephoto lens to add?  It is always best to keep your equipment even if a good choice would be the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5. 6 objective IS of STM.  It fits very well.

• I would like to replace a with an equivalent Canon Sigma lens.

  The lens is a Sigma 70-300mm 1:4-5. 6 DG with macro.  Which Canon lens would come close? The body is a T3i Rebal EOS.

  Thank you

  If you are serious about on the side of the fauna of it think the Canon 100-400 L IS lens, or even the Sigma 50-500 OS (kinda big & heavy for hand holding a large part) and read existing threads on the 100-400 & the 400 f5.6. It is a much better scope for wildlife that only 300 mm. You should also consider a good Macro lens for near work place that is not something I do, I'll let the others he made recommendations.

• Zoom lens combination as an alternative to the 18-55mm and 55-250mm lens for my T3i?

  I have a T3i with 18-55mm and 55-250mm objectives.  Switching lenses visits is a nuisance.  The shorter one is required for pictures close to the museums, galleries, blocked sites, ourselves and our friends, etc.  Longer lenses are useful for many city outdoor and rural/mountain shots.  Is there a combination priced zoom that I should consider?  Y at - it somewhere that I can sell my current lenses.  My T3i and lenses are less than a year.  Thank you.

  There are a lot of options out there for "superzooms" If that's what you're looking for.  This is a decent article on them, and to explain some of the advantages and disadvantages:

  http://www.TechRadar.com/us/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/best-superzoom-for-Canon-DSLRs-8-...

  I see a lot of recommendations for http://www.fredmiranda.com/ to buy and sell used.  But I know you are going to get much for those kit lenses.  Can be difficult to find a buyer, but you never know.

• Nikon 200-500 f5.6 zoom lens correction

  Hello

  I got a Nikon 200-500 f5.6 zoom come and found it there is no lens correction in Lightroom 5, is there an update for it

  Hi ferrarinan

  This lens is supported in Lightroom version 6/CC.

  Refer to working with profiles of lenses in Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop, Lightroom

  

  Concerning

  Assani

• New boy in the city

  I recently bought a new camera, good Friday, April 18, EOS600D. I'm confused by the term "Rebel T3i", the box of my camera came to has no mention of the "Rebel T3i" or not the guide. The camera was introduced as a body 'bundle' EOS600D, Canon zoom lens EF-S 18-55 1: 3. 5 - 5.6 III 58 mm and Canon zoom lens EF 75-300 mm 1:4-5. 6 III 58 mm.

  I see there is an update to the firmware, how can I do to make this if please, or won't it not necessary?

  I used a bridge over the past years, and I felt it was time to expand my interest in photography. I have recently brought two UV filters as protection for the lenses and will reap my lens hoods Tuesday. So far, I found the camera, faily easy to mount, I continued to climb the learning curve and have quite a long way to go. Once I'm compitent feeling with the camera, I'll get by taking the FIRST and of the same edition. My editing skills are what could be considered as quite basic. I use two programs, Photoshop Elements 10 and Serif PhotoPlus X 6. I sometimes use a specific program to perform a task, and then move on to the second progrm to complete the work. I find that one program can make some tasks easier than the other. RAW on the other is a different kettle of fish

  If you have the intention of shooting RAW, which is a good idea, if you're after the best results, the camera can produce.

  I recommend you use Photoshop Elements exclusively at least until understand you exactly what is involved in the editing process.  Not to complicate things by using three different programs.

  However, you must understand your end goal.  What you plan to do with your photos.  Certain uses, RAW will not be better or even help.

  For example, snap shots for Grandma or Facebook messages.  In these examples, nix the RAW format.  Want beautiful prints, maybe 8 x 10 or more than one custom printer, by all means RAW format.

  Knowing what you're doing is great but also know how you will use is awesome, too.

• Canon, in the face of fast moving subjects 18-55 kit lens?

  Hi everyone, I'm new here.

  I was doing one shoot the other day on very fast subjects that changed a lot of direction (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were evil out of the home, which was a real shame. I want to know if it's the lens, the body or my technique that does not reach me.

  I'm relatively new to photography, so maybe it's that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not mode live view with servo AF on a 600 d body. Usually when I focus I pan just the camera turn to follow the subject, sometimes pressing down when I want to shoot.

  I plan the upgrade to the 17-55 f2.8 because it is sharp wide open and has a constant and fast opening and USM and full-time manual focus with a correct focus ring.

  Thank you.

  Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things...

  1. camera AF capabilities. Your 600 d has 9 AF points system. Only one of these points - the center one - is the "best" type of cross that is more responsive and follows the movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would be useful to limit yourself to using only the central point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced systems of the AF.) T4i, T5i, 60 d, 50 d and 40 d has 9 AF points that looks like, but all nine points are the cross-type sesnors 'better '. The 7 d and 70 d AF 19 points, with all of the nineteen cut type. 5DIII and 1DX 61 points AF with up to 41 Cup type, depending on the lens used.)

  Some cameras are also optimized for performance development. For example, the models of the series 1 d and 7 d have a separate chip driving AF... While most (maybe all?) other models share the tasks of AF by the same processor that handles images.

  2 capacity autofocus lens: Yes, a reader of "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) objective as the EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 would be an improvement on your kit lens. It is faster, less hunting and is quieter than a 'micro' such as is used in the cheaper kit lens. (Note: there is a version a bit more of the 18-55mm with drive focus "STM" or "Stepper motor", which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM.) STM lenses are running silent and particularly well suited for video.)

  A larger aperture, like the 17-55 / 2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), offers more light to the camera AF sensors, allowing for faster and better follow-up.

  No, forget all the EF 50/1.8... Of course, he got more openness, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be developed slower, less accurate and likely to hunt more than a USM lens. If you want a quick and of course focusing in short and medium telephoto, look to the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or L-135/2 lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They have also one or two larger max aperture stop that even the 17-55 / 2.8 (or any other zoom lens), provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a f2.8 lens or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with the centre of focus.

  A few drinks simply are not designed to be developed fast, even if they have more large openings and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification tends to be slower. In addition, very large aperture lenses such as the 85 / 1.2 L are generally slower... Design. Very large aperture lenses and macro focus on precision, to deal with the shallow depth of the effects on the ground, rather than speed.

  Other objectives are designed to the very fast development. All 70-200, the 100-400 and all the first 300mm lenses and more, are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600 mm can be difficult to get and keep on target, however.

  Some third-party lenses also make use of similar to Canon's USM development drive, to help the performance of the update. Sigma HSM and Tamron lenses USD are examples.

  3. skills of the user is the third key factor making the update performance... that is, your technique.

  You mention servos 'AF '...  Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: one-shot, HAVE Focus and AI Servo... There is no "Servo AF. The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Perhaps what you are already doing. In any case, One Shot is almost only used with stationary subjects (there are techniques of 'pre-focus' where it can be used with moving subjects, but those who are rarely used). I Focus is not really a foucs mode at all... It is supposed to decide for you, if the subject is moving, then change to use the correct mode. I have not tested on a recent, but older model where I tried, I found a slight delay that causes a lot of discussion missed shots. He also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be interesting to note that Canon more pro-oriented models have same AI Focus... they offer only One Shot or AI Servo.

  So, make sure that you are using AI Servo to maximize performance when shooting moving subjects.

  You also use a slow shutter speed. I inflate the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop the movement of the subject with something as fast as the dogs in action. In fact, more you are close to the subject, shutter speed more fast you will really need to freeze movement.

  Cannon also noted that the 18MP models are a little prone to blur shake camera - probably because of the high density of pixels on the sensor sites - and recommends keeping shutter speeds upwards to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper on this subject, on the Canon website. I don't know if it is still available online.

  You should be able to get nice images, specific to ISO 1600... a complete stop of two higher and you to use much faster shutter speed. However, if the indoor shooting it may be areas that are not as well informed and are hard to get a sharp shot.

  You can shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and factors in post-processing exposure when using high ISO.

  A popular technique among photographers of sports/action is back button to the point. See this article online, on this subject: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

  BBF separates the function of the development of the trigger. You use rather your thumb on one of the rear camera buttons to start and stop the development. Many users feel that this allows more safe and followed acquistion with moving subjects. You can configure your camera for BBF and give it a try. It is possible for action/sport/HAVE Servo shooting, it's actually usable once, too... I used it enough only for a few years now.

  With the help of BBF, I start AF well before that I want to take the picture, then focus on the maintenance of the area to focus on the right of the subject where I want the lens to focus continuing to follow and maintain the emphasis... then take pictures along the way. I use the Center Focus point alone, much of the time. This could lead to too centered images, so I try to fit a little loose from time to time, allowing cropping to make that fewer centered images. I sometimes use other than the Center AF point... but who wouldn't recommend with action shot on a camera that does not have the type sensors crossed to peripheral issues, such as your 600 d.

  I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of USM lenses fast development of shoot a lot of sports. With a few years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 on 100 shots using this type of gear with the above techniques. I turned to 4000 images at an event recent and marked about 30 people like "rejected" to missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those who are my fault... not the machine). There may be a few others that are marginally acceptable (i.e., can make an 8 x 10 beautiful print, but seem not good any more greater than). Yet, even if there are 80 or 120 spleen focus, it is only 2 or 3%... much better than only 10% in short.

  I would say that qualities of objective performance and user techniques generally count more than the camera well, or at least can largely compensate for any camera shortcomings. I got results almost as good 50 d and 30 d before it (which were similar to your 600 d AF system) and even with 10 days earlier ("lower" than your AF system). Although I'm a bit away, I didn't like good luck shooting moving subjects using 5 d Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects)... the 5 d Mark III has a much better AF system and follows the movement much better.

  I hope this helps!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• Is there a digital zoom on the Canon Rebel T5?

  I realize it has optical zoom turning the lens on my Canon Rebel T5, but I like the digital zoom shots as well. My older Powershot a digital and optical zoom shooting. I expected the rebel T5 having two institutions. I have to be able to zoom more than the 55 mm provides? Recommendations for a better zoom lens? Digital zoom is on this other than cropping model after?

  No on both lenses. But sells Canon, a 18-200mm lens, and you can get third 18-270mm lens that will give you this range of zoom with unique to the camera lens.

• Is it possible to get the Lr 6 for the FE 24-240 zoom SONY lens profile in Lr 5.7.1?

  I see that Lr 6 has this profile of 24-240 zoom lens, but is not in 5.7.1.  It would be really nice if the profile could be loaded in 5.7.1 as there is nothing in the 6 that I need and want the RAW/ARW profile for lens of ths.  Any help out there?

  The profiles installed by the DNG Converter are used only in PS/ACR not LR.

  Under Windows, you can copy the profile of the LCP under LR 6 to get 5 LR uses a profile of LR 6:

  C:\Program Files\Adobe\Adobe Lightroom\Resources\LensProfiles\1.0\Sony\ (Sony FE 24-240mm F3. 5 - 6.3 OSS) - RAW.lcp

  to the third-party joint profile areas of your users folder structure, here, where you may need to create the download folder:

  C:\Users\ (username) \AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\LensProfiles\1.0\Downloaded

• for 80 d Canon camera bag

  If I have a Canon 80 d with a 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens attached, should I get a Lowepro Toploader Zoom 50 AW II camera bag or the bag Lowepro Toploader Zoom 55 AW II? I chatted with people different from two sellers online and I get different answers to this question. Thanks for any advice.

  RobertTheFat wrote:

  Do not neglect the bags of Canon. They are not very expensive, and some of them are very good. I got one as a gift with my 3 5 a couple of years, and I often find myself with it as an alternative to my giant Domke bag.

  I just checked the EOS 80 d with lens EF-S 18-135 IS STM lens hold in the Canon Zoom Pack 1000.

  

  Great bag if you just want to carry the camera with a lens, spare battery, a filter and a spare memory card.

  It is a style of Holster that fits on your shoulder, it also has a tucked away from belt if you need to keep in your body for hiking and climbing.

  I love this little bag and $20, I got to own several of them.