Location of niSwitch, niPower, etc., vi, ctl

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• Some of my programs no longer work after installing the new update from microsoft... can't locate the files server etc..

  Programs do not work and then MSO1033 and Outlook.NK2Outlook appeared on my desk and I wonder if I should find a way to put them where they belong and everything will work well...

  Hello Avalia,

  Please provide us with some information about the programs that do not work.

  
  With information available to us so far, you can run the restore to the date where the programs were working well.

  To restore the operating system to an earlier date, follow these steps:

  1. click on the system restore starts, type in the Search box, and then click System Restore in the programs list.

  2. If you are prompted for an administrator password or a confirmation, type your password or click on continue.

  3. in the System Restore dialog box, click choose a different restore point , and then click on Next.

  4. in the list of restore points, click a restore point created before you started having the problem, and then click on Next.

  5. click on end.

  The computer restarts and system files and settings are back to the State they were in when the restore point was created.

  Here is a link to the system restore if you want more information
   http://support.Microsoft.com/kb/936212/

   
  
  Please let us know if it helps.

  Thank you and best regards,
  Abdelouahab Microsoft responds to the technical support engineer

• How to get latitude and longitude from a specific location

  Hi, we can get card giving the latitude and longitude. But I need to get the card when I give the specific location, like New York etc.. So how do you get the particular location points. I use the 8820 Simulator in eJDE4.5.

  can someone help me solve this problem.

  Thank you

  There
  integer
  Latitude in decimal degrees x 100,000

  x
  integer
  longitude in decimal degrees x 100,000

  See GPS and BlackBerry Maps Development Guide.pdf

• How can I make permanent location easily

  I have a lot of my photos with GPS coordinates tag before their import in Lightroom.  When I put them images in Lightroom, the name of the location (city, State, country, etc.) appear low if the metadata Panel is as shown in the picture as an attachment.  I then have to click on each subdivision of the location to put this information in brighter white and to be part of the metadata of the image.  That's a lot of your time with many images.  If there are more taken with the exact location of the GPS even, they can all be selected and clicked on, but it is difficult to find exactly the same.  Is there a faster way to do this?

  Unfortunately, there is not a faster way to do this.  A lot of people have complained of this to design; see these discussions in the Adobe official feedback forum:

  Lightroom: better control the reverse geocoded location metadata

  Lightroom 5: problems with GeoTagging and validation

  You can add your vote and view to the first thread, but given that the problem is present for more than 3 years, it seems unlikely that Adobe will never solve this problem.

  Many users LR use Geosetter or Geoencoding plugin support.

• 1st gen Apple Watch, OS3, workout card routing

  After updating my 1st Gen Apple Watch to OS3, I started a workout. He asked me to put my iPhone along for the calibration. I ended up taking a 4km walk, and after I saved a workout I noticed that in the summary of the workout he captured a map of my route to market together.

  I repeated the same 4km walk with the same way the next day and the following days (still wearing my iPhone) but is no longer provides a map of the route I took. No settings have been changed since the day 1 (e.g., location services, data enabled, etc.).

  Thoughts?

  My works fine as long as the iPhone captures GPS. Try going in to the workout on the activity of the app on the phone, check the time in the outdoor market, make sure it's your name and place an arrow of tracking. If this is not the case, try to repair your watch. and you check location setting on the phone too when you have the route that you will have time as well!

• 10.0.1 battery drainage problem

  Hi all.

  Wanted to put this here in the HOPE that someone at the top of the Apple Tree (Corp.) would be read and that relay the bad worm on the iOS issue more recent 10.0.1 update

  I am not new to Apple products, or iOS, actually, I stood in line for hours to get my hands on the iPhone 3, then the iPhone 4 and iPhone 5, of course iPhone 6 + and now the iPhone 7 (not the model... + oh how I reluctant sell pre-order tactics). Oh, and I got almost all the iPad unique mini and model to date, with my new bad boy iPad 12.9 Pro

  I mention this to let you know that I'm used to the infrastructure and its updates to iOS.

  Good... How do I know that it is the iOS and not something else, easy... I bought 2 iPhone 7 the launch day. The first I have restored from a backup on my computer via iTunes, which was the last iOS at the time 9.3.5 and during this restore point, that one I qu' on m' a was asked to update the 10.0.1 update and I did. Another iPhone 7, I didn't have to use a backup and it came pre-loaded with iOS already installed 10.0.0. So I have a good comparison to go off of.

  Now that I got the new phones for 2 solid days, their use of the battery is completely different. Yes, they have the same settings. Yet once... This isn't my first rodeo. (I check the usage of battery applications, location service is disabled, etc, etc..)

  The 2nd iPhone 7 run 10.0.0 doing the same task; Messaging, emails and a few phone calls about 95% and my 1st iPhone was 80% (WTH!)

  What really nailed the coffin closed, has been when I've updated my iPad Pro 9.3.5 10.0.1 and too, it began to lose the battery life almost twice as fast as it was before. Same apps running as before, no other changes have been made.

  So that's when I knew absolutely that it is the most recent iOS 10.0.1, which lies behind the question of battery drainage.

  Hello Apple... Please fix it quickly.

  Well, I don't work for Apple, but several thoughts come to mind:

  • I had every generation since the original iPhone.  I can tell you that we never have a named iPhone "iPhone 3.  The second iPhone was 'iPhone 3G', followed by 'iPhone 3GS '.
  • Summarizing your post, it seems that you bought two iPhone 7s with one major difference: you have restored a from backup iTunes and you set it like new.
  • You then compare the behavior of the batteries on these two iPhones. You said «I have a good comparison to go...» »
  • But the big difference between the two iPhones, which you do not highlight, is that one has all your applications and data, while the other does not.

  Therefore, you should check the settings > farm and see what applications are using your battery.  Of course, it should be noted that the iPhone with all the applications and data use battery that is not restored from a backup.

• The update of Windows 10 1511 reboot loop Bootcamp BSOD ACPI. SYS

  It is a copy of my thread to http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance/windows-10-update-1511-reboot-loop-bootcamp/8653... as I was asked to post here by the Microsoft Support Engineer.

  Hello

  Friday night, I went to bed with a working machine. I had a late 2013 Mac Pro BootCamp running with a Windows 10 Pro installed, the Build version before 1511.

  On Saturday morning, I woke up to my PC restart itself over and over again. It seems that Windows Update has decided to put a new version of Windows 10 on my machine without my knowledge. I discovered this after restoring an acronis backup (which took a few hours because of the number of incremental backups)

  Occasionally (about 1 in 20 restarts) it would blue screen with an error:

  SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED (ACPI.sys)

  But the rest of the time he would just start, flash a window for a millisecond that says (I think) winlaunch.exe, then restart.

  I tried a lot of things to sort it, including:

  (1) restore from a backup, acronis to Friday morning, running sfc/scannow, and then runs the update

  (2) the creation of a recovery USB, enter the console, change the boot to legacy method, so I can F8, then goes into all security modes and mode of illegal product, but I can find where windows 10 now puts the boot log

  (3) restored from acronis, switched to mac, created a new bootcamp drivers usb, switched to windows and run the option 'fix drivers' before performing the update.

  Ntbtlog.txt is not anywhere on the partition. I ran a dir /s > a.txt then open this a.txt in Notepad and searched him.

  I don't know where to go from here. I can acronis restore of a windows 10 work machine the morning before installing mandatory 1511. I don't know how to delay the update no more, I noted during a restore I had delay on updates that are why it has arisen just now.

  I do not know how to find where this BSOD ACPI.sys will come (even if it happens so rarely) or this that its trying to load just before it crashes (so I can try to delete the driver etc. by the front restored windows to upgrade)

  I guess the widowed causes 10 to do a restore, then the restore fails.

  Overall, I get at the end of my wits with this, to go a completely Windows 10 installation work Friday to more than two wasted days, restore backups, try again, rinse and repeat. It's now Monday morning and I am posting this as a ditch last attempt to solve the problem, your help would be appreciated.

  If you need more information please let me know the location of the files, etc, or their names and I will do my best to have copies available for you.

  I will now restore the backup again, uninstall loading of drivers, and then try the update of windows for the 4th or 5th time.

  Thanks in advance,

  Julian

  Woo Hoo, I've solved the problem!

  I uninstalled the drivers of graphics from AMD (with AMD Driver Cleaner) and Arcronis True Image Home 2013 at the same time, then let Windows Update run its course. Now I have a machine with Windows Version 1511 10!

  It took me 4 days of downtime...

  I hope this helps someone else.

• How to restore a photo library using iCloud on a MacBook?

  I now use iCloud for back up my entire library (more than 200 GB).  How to restore a photo library (including all data of pictures like faces, events, etc.) on my MacBook Pro when my MacBook Pro needs to be replaced?

  I used historically Time Machine to backup and restore my library when my photo library migration to another laptop.  However, I now do not have a backup Time Machine full of my library because the library is too large to store locally.  So now, I'm opting for storing it on iCloud to Apple servers using their 'optimize' Photos option.  Now, if I replace my laptop, I would be sure that as transparent as Time Machine restore solution is to obtain and import the Photo library (for example, the index of all my photos, events / files, location tags, face tags, etc.) on my new laptop directly from iCloud.

  Enjoy any clarity in iCloud library restore capabilities!

  I now use iCloud for back up my entire library (more than 200 GB).  How to restore a photo library (including all data of pictures like faces, events, etc.) on my MacBook Pro when my MacBook Pro needs to be replaced?

  You can create an empty photo library on your new Mac, and then enable iCloud photo library for this new library of Photos.  The library will download icloud, and most of the elements will be restored.

  But iCloud is not a backup. It's a centralized storage to keep all libraries updated on all your devices.

  There are some things that will not be restored to iCloud, for example the albums faces or your projects.

  This document describes how a library will be uploaded to iCloud to another Mac:

  Use iCloud photo library on several Mac - Apple Support computers and Photos

  After have connected you, these items appear in the Photos on your Mac app:

  • All photos and original videos
  • All folders and albums
  • Smart albums
  • Keywords
  • Keywords from searches of the tile faces
  • Key photo selections

  These items are available only on the Mac where you created the:

  • Books, cards and calendars
  • Slideshows
  • Keyword shortcuts
  • Unused keywords
  • Last album imported (this album contains photos you have imported recently on a specific Mac)
  • Facing tiles and faces of the data

  I is not entirely based on iCloud as a backup of your photos, but sometimes create a copy of your photo library on an external drive. In this way, you can restore your library, even if you are having problems with the internet connection, and it will be faster.

• Fan continues to run

  I have a HP G70 120EA with windows vista Basic.

  The fan on my laptop running constantly at full. Usually the fan works intermittently throughout the day and is usually quiet, but right now, it runs non-stop. The laptop isn't overheating and performance is not affected, but the fan should not be run as this the

  I installed an update of the BIOS but that did not solve the problem, can someone help me?

  If you have had your system for at least 6 to 12 months, then it's to the point where it is probably enough dust and particles have put in the fans and filters and ducts begin to affect the temperature of system operation. If your fan runs constantly, it is more likely, especially if you don't have not kept the contributions and blown exhaust every two weeks or more. Laptops can draw in a lot of dust and dirt, especially for the people who use them on their "towers" and not on a surface hard as required to ensure ventilation and aeration. The contributions of the laptop fan are on the bottom, the exhaust usually in the back corners. No matter how clean your environment may be, clothing & skin particles, hair, dust, dirt, you name it and it will get finally inside your system. For most laptop computers, depending on the size, happens between 6 and 18 months, usually about 12-16, until they begin to have problems because of the dirt and debris inside heating. Generally, the system, faster it builds, but it also depends on how many times it is used.

  Particles and fibers of clothing are especially a problem, and also why you should never use your laptop on your lap. One, it blocks the water intakes and two most of the clothes are made of a mixture of cotton, cotton is a great heat insulator and something you do not want inside your system. Bare skin is as bad or worse, because it contains particles of skin, hair, and other things that you don't normally see that can enter your system.

  You can try first blowing the contributions and exhausts - they'll be obvious dust around them. Blow it when the unit is running. Realistic but, ultimately you have to shoot the cover and keyboard to pass inside to do a good cleaning/rash to accomplish real. If your fan is where it is to run all the time, then you're already at this time here.

  There is a common HP Support newsletter which is linked to the Page to support your system and many other systems which covers this issue:

  Reduce heat and the fan noise by cleaning the air vents

  The fan runs constantly, the PC is running more slowly than expected and generates heat

  To remove the cover and the entire keyboard, the library of HP Services shows you the procedure and a video demo on exactly how to execute the instructions to remove and replace the different FRU (CRUS). While it doesn't specifically tell you how to perform preventive maintenance functions (something that I suggested that they add), you can use it to remove the cover and remove the keyboard to switch to the fans and ducts to blow off the dust.

  HP SERVICES MEDIA LIBRARY

  HP SERVICES MEDIA LIBRARY, 100 SERIES NOTEBOOK FRU G70

  It's really not as hard as you might think. The done key to keep a good which screws go where, and for novices, there are some easy ways to do so.

  1. some use a muffin Pan - I don't personally like them as a professional. All it takes is for you, your child, you dog, cat, lizard, whatever, Knock off the table and that you're "screwed" literally while you die in agony, I look at each screw you have removed go flying in all directions.

  2 parts case - use a medium of plastic parts, number them with a marker and write on paper where screws for each numbered compartment. Leave the cover on the door closed while you work. Better, but still not great.

  3 Ribbon and paper - my favorite. Get a roll of blue tape of 2 ". Detach a strip long enough to cover a piece of paper or poster board and bend back the ends, tape on the surface with the sticky side. On the paper/cardboard, note the location of the screws etc and paste each screws/part of the band. When you remove them, sticky substance does not stick, but it is strong enough to hold small pieces very well.

  Of course I did it for so many years I do not use anything but my memory, because they are all pretty much the same. But if you never did, using one of these systems can really help you to avoid a catastrophe.

  Air - use air canned and have at least 2 or 3 boxes available and be in a room that has a fan to blow off the dust outside or at least away from the system. USE a vacuum cleaner on any electronic system - laminar airflow at the end of the nozzle does NEVER extremes of static electricity that can literally destroy components. ESD rated vacuums are very expensive, so don't even think about it. Non-conductive tips are not as effective either - it is best to avoid completely, but you can use them at a distance to suck all the dust you ripped. I have always used a HEPA filter or a fan to blow out the dust or vacuum dust of any system I've been working on at the time, so it's not aspire back when I am done.

  I say having more than one can air because the propellant becomes useless after about 30 seconds of spray, until it warms up again. Unless you want to spray and keep in waiting, so many in order to use one, then another one like the other retrieves.

  Make sure you only keep your system connected to an electrical outlet also while you do this - you don't want it powered of course, but have plugged it into a grounded outlet gives you better ESD protection when working within a system. Never touch an exposed electronic component unless it is on his side, or if you're also well grounded.

  You must also download and install HWMonitor, a monitoring program internal system convenient and widely used. It measures the temperatures of all the key components and fans. You can get it on http://www.CPUID.com

  This, you should get repaired. I know that this seems to be a chore, but it is easier than you might think and a lot cheaper (and safer) that leave some bozo at best buy or somewhere else you charge hundreds of dollars for it, and you can bet money they'll find something else elsewhere just dust.

• Satellite Pro L300 - may not always connect to the same strong connection router

  I currently have a Satellite Pro L300-155. At work, the WIFI signal is strong everywhere where I am in the building because we have 2 WIFI connections. However, I can connect okay in 1 room but if I just go in the other room, I'm unable to connect - and the connection is still strong. This also happens intermittently at home.
  Is it of diagnostics that I can run on the Toshiba to test wifi?

  Where can I find what chip it is? Where is the wifi location - on a motherboard, etc?
  Can it be replaced and where I could quote from?

  Thanks in advance

  Hi cooky44,

  In my opinion, you should update the routers firmware and update your WLAN driver.

  Furthermore, I have created an interesting document on improvements to WLAN connection:
  [WiFi: improved reliability of connections | http://forums.computers.toshiba-europe.com/forums/ann.jspa?annID=68]

  Also check the forum similar topics WLAN.

• Suggestions of Spotlight/Safari limited region?

  Hello

  I am based in Prague, Czech Republic, and recently I was in Australia, where I got a notification on my Macbook Pro and an iPhone 5 that Safari and Spotlight now support quick suggestions and etc (in iOS new updates, locations nearest you, navigation etc.; in Safari Web sites (, the auto-suggéré and etc..).

  It worked perfectly, but now I have come back to the Czech Republic and characteristics disappeared again. Safari suggests no more these convenient Web site suggestions, iOS spotlight doesn't show any information outside the proposed applications. Nothing at all.

  I have trouble believing this would be due to restrictions in the region - example website suggestions? What's wrong in having them available everywhere?

  Anyone could shed some light on this?

  Thank you.

  Hi Ollie, there.

  Welcome to Apple Support communities.

  From what I understand, you recently visited the Australia and noticed that some features on your devices are not available more since his return to the Czech Republic. Apparently not that Spotlight Suggestion functions you describe are not available in Czech Republic. You can find more information on the availability of features in iOS and OS X here:

  9 availability of features - Apple iOS

  Apple OS X - availability of a feature.

  Take care.

• Satellite Pro A10: New card wireless Atheros/Askey, but "this device cannot start" code 10

  Hello

  I have a Satellite Pro A10 and bought an internal pci wireless adapter. The following information is displayed on my card:

  Askey WLL3070-D4 (MOW)
  Atheros AR5BRB-43

  I installed the card, attached to the ariel and turned on the laptop... the switch at the front lights up now and Windows xp detects the new ethernet adapter. My problem is the following...

  Any driver I install (and Ive tried all the drivers of the first 20 + pages of yahoo/google Askey/Atheros etc.) the card installs very well but then in device manager has a yellow! next to him and says this device cannot start (code 10)

  I am really puzzled. I have little ram more to come in the next few days how I am installng Vista im hoping sort my problems, but someone has any ideas?

  I have not yet find a driver which specifically refers to the AR5BRB or the WLL3070-D4 model number.

  Does anyone have a location for a pilot, etc.?

  Thank you

  Hello

  I always use this page for WLan driver update:
  http://APS.toshiba-tro.de/WLAN/

  It is a Toshiba WLan driver portal and you will find all the necessary drivers for WLan

  Ciao

• WiFi and data plans

  I'm curious to know if you have a data plan for the phone WiFi part to work properly. Sprint has said that you have to have one, but I want to know if it's true. I love the phone but I really don't want to pay for a data plan if I don't have to. In other words, I want to know if you can use an an i680 active sim card and use the WiFi browser. Sprint said that if you try, you will fry the i1. As far as I know, most for Sprint/Nextel sim cards are interchangeable.

  you don't have to get the data Plan, you can browse the internet for free on any Nextel (with the exception of blackberry), but I block internet access because you will receive no contact Direct or regular calls the use of the internet (even if you use it, the mobile phone internet access to get the location) emails, facebook updates, etc.)

  It of the best phone you'll ever have on nextel, but sucks it with nextel internet...

• Horrible battery life

  Hello world

  I don't know what else to do.  Seriously, I think that I have a defective battery.  I googled "tips for saving battery life on iOS 9 ', but nothing seems to help. I'm not keen on a large number of features is disabled on my iPod Touch.  I have reset, restored, disabled mail set Backgroud App Refresh, location, updating manually, Services etc.  Whenever I play heavy games, the battery goes from 100% to 20% in a little over an hour. Regular web browsing and more lightweight games gives me a little more than four hours. If I'm lucky, I get five hours of use, if I barely use the iPod.  I saw the other posts here from people complaining about bad autonomy on the iPT new 6g.  I'm about to go into an Apple store and get it checked, if possible. I can already hear the speech "it is normal".  Something else I'm missing?  Very disappointed.

  I would go and get checked out. I know that games can drain it. I played Village Smurfs for several months and now I need to load my ipod every night so a game can drain your battery. I don't play the game constantly, but I could tell a few minutes to an hour a good part of the day.

• Ghost PCI-4472

  Put running a tester this morning and discovered we have some maps installed... nine allegedly.  The pair of PCI-4472 is not physically present, we do not have all of this model in society.  Never added as a simulated devices or trying to create new.  DAQmx 9.1.5 and MAX 4.7.  More that a gene, these cards took the slots Dev1 and Dev2 that pushed my real cards to the bottom of the list and broke my program.  Renamed everything back to normal, set the 4472 s like Dev8 and 9 to keep if all goes well out of the way.  Restarted and now a 4472 is green like it is actually recognized by the PC.  I tried a self-test and MAX threw an error, saying: it was not found.  Serial No., the location of the bus, etc. are all 0.

  Happen on another computer a few months ago, but it does not affect anything, so I did not do much.  Any ideas?

  conical,

  There was a bug in multiple DAQmx versions where the USB HID class devices would be badly detected as material OR.  See this knowledge base. The knowledge base contains fixes for the affected versions of DAQmx.

  Hope that helps,
  Dan