Shading of imaging

Similar Questions

• HP 6510 - areas shaded on scanned images

  When I scan an image or document using a HP 6510 scanned images are dark and shaded areas along the vertical edges of the completed scans. The cover is closed all the way and the shadows are not part of the original image/document. What could cause this problem and how to fix it?

  I have scanned hundreds of images with a C5280 printer/scanner and never had any problems with it. Since I bought the 6510, I didn't have problems with it, it's a true lemon IMO. Does anyone know if HP is planning a recall on this model?

  Resolved: The problem proved to be the scanner cover. It allows a small amount of light to enter along the edge of the hinge. After you verify that the lid has been correctly installed (tabs of hinge in place and the lid placed correctly in addition to glass) I found that putting something, like a book or my hand on top of the lid while the machine is scanning has solved the problem.
  
  I miss my old HP Photosmart C5280.

• 3D without shading image optimization

  Hello

  I would like my 3D image control does not use ANY whether shading... If the polygon has a color (255,0,0), I would like it to appear with that color, no matter at what angle we know the point of view.

  Is it possible to do this? The available simple shading is "Flat" that does not change color with the angle of view.

  Maybe there's a way to do this with a particular stage lighting or something?

  I think I got this effect by closing out (or remove), but didn't like no and no - did fast.

  So I'm not sure.

  Ben

• Gray shading on text, images, and icons.

  After having it on my computer, I noticed that everything has a shadow gray behind it, such as text, images, icons, even in programs. can I disable this somehow, or is my monitor has just been shot?

  Nevermind I fixed it, just had to disconnect everything and place it in the

• Color on a part of the graph is shaded - HP PhotoSmart 8250

  HP PhotoSmart 8250

  I try to print a graphic 4 "X 8" (shiny postcard) of a PDF file, but a part of a section of the image on one of the ends (1/3 of the printing area) is partially shaded transparent gray - in particular 1/2 of a face.

  Picture of the subject's head is placed in an oval graphic. The upper part of the grey area is a straight line that runs under the nose of the subject, and the lower part follows the edge curved graphic border (the face and the background resemble the entire bottom half is immersed in a water tank - like the person is in a fish bowl).

  I have test-print a 4 "X 6" photo on a similar document, and it prints well. I ran a test print, which was very good, and I downloaded an updated driver, but there is no improvement.

  It is quite frustrating! Thanks for any help you can give. -Cheryl

  Thanks for the suggestion. I tried the first driver that you recommended, but he offered no paper that I need - 4 X 8 inches. So I re-downloaded the drivers tried and original. I played a bit with the printer and Adobe settings (printing was worse the JPG file), and I managed to get a pretty good quality for printing. Fortunately, it was a one-time project, and print photos of standard size very well. I appreciate the input! -C

• Registered Photoshop images have a grey (in motion) around each part

  Sorry, pretty hard to explain.

  I combined the images into Photoshop and if yes or no, I use a transparent background, some of the images have always an area shaded around them... It isn't always around the complete image - sometimes it covers only part of the picture.  * When I pass a mouse over this piece of shading image turns into a different form or part of the image.*

  I tried to save as every file type, but it happens with all of them.

  It is very small, but noticeable, and I do not think that should happen, but I don't know how to get rid of it.

  

  

  Can someone please?

  It is for the best of Britain. Your psd is fine and files of your savings are very good too, so it must be to do with how they are rendered on your screen to words the square gray isn't in the file itself, but is probably an artifact from the graphics card driver.

• Why several ghostly images when I play the video in the timeline?

  I'm new to Speedgrade and I understand how it is powerful - but I think it's completely intuitive compared to After Effects or first or even PhotoShop.

  I loaded a test clip (30 p ProRes) and when I try and play and watch on the configuration of the monitor I get four ghostly images of the shooting.

  I'm not using an external monitor as I am shaken upward in a hotel room working on a MacBook Pro.

  In order to speed (ironic, huh) I'll probably make the colors work in After Effects, but if someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

  Forgive me if this info is already posted on the forum - I tried search but he came up to the top with a white and a large number of tutorials.

  Don't not seen this... but it would be good to get a few things to help you. SpeedGrade is a program unique, but it's actually quite simple to use once you begin to understand the controls and what they do, which is often a little different from what is a noob expected... as when I started with him, I have found certainly!

  First of all, it is more demanding of hardware damage even... If the Sg doesn't like your platform, it will simply go crazy doing nothing. He won't give you small problems like stammering, he'll do great things that obviously does not work. So... that's just MbPro got for the video/graphics card? And how much RAM? Computers that use the graphical features embedded very rarely work well with SpeedGrade. Under 8GB RAM... don't even think on this subject. You MIGHT be able to live with 6 GB of RAM, as some people have claimed that they did... but this isn't a nice job... slowing.

  Following... is this a project of SpeedGrade 'native mode', where you open SpeedGrade and a new project, and then make a timeline it in SpeedGrade, or a draft Premiere Pro sent to Sg by using the command "live from SpeedGrade?

  Initially, I found Sg so impossible, that I used Ae a little myself. Now... I was not to AE for a long time, except to say fight against noise or create a sequence of reading can do a LUT of her.

  First step to a colorist or the marshalling of the app is neutralize your videos... Making it NOT enough. It's a different passage home and down the road. In this step, I don't even look at the picture very much... I'll have the RGB Parade, Luma and YUV Vectorscope 'up' signal and watch, particularly the parade & wave. I select the slider controls (in color wheels) and unlock all the controls I use (the small icons of lock). I'll adjust individual controls in color on the section Offset (left set of sliders) to match the bottom of their footsteps a little over 2 or more, I will look to see if it's ok or should it perhaps a little lighter with this image. The switch for the Gain sliders (right) and set them to basically same heights for the scope of the parade, with their vivid the two lower at 100 and research appropriate for the image. It is sometimes as low as in the 1960s, sometimes as high as 99.

  Next is to use the Gamma sliders (in the middle) to correspond mainly to the parade & - waveform traces... all easily identifiable 'forms' in the mid tones I will align with each other.

  The foregoing leads me what... 20 seconds? May 30 at the most.

  Then I switch back to the color wheels and compare the images with my eyeballs and the vectorscope... How is the saturation and... How is the balance of color/tint and the proportions compared to what I'm used to seeing on the field and the monitor? At this point, I'll do a bit of tweaking of the Gamma & Gain color wheels and luminance sliders, perhaps use contrast, temperature, magenta or rotate the cursors in the cursor above group wheels. This neutralizes things pretty well.

  Can do... Nice... or better. JUST looking at a picture's contrast, luma (lamps or dark) or chroma (color)... where's the good contrast, where... not very good? You can have too little contrast color (saturation) in the midrange, but perhaps too in the brights... or your shadows can all tend to block upward around 5-20, when you need to go up a little higher. This is where the tabs above the wheels of color shine... This example:

  

  The tab made highlights chosen... No, you have still three wheels, each with (vertical slider) luma and chroma controls (wheel)? They overlap, and in order to play a bit with a ramp is great. A "ramp" is a tonal graphic staircase from black to gray in several stages, make an and import... then play around with the settings and see what effect each has... where on the ramp.

  Here, on the tab highlights... the rightmost is very bright pixels in the clip, with overlaps down the scale a little. Controlling the environment moves mainly on the third median of this, the upper third of the image around... with some effect in the poorest and brightest pixels in this part of the scale. The right control is the bottom of the upper third... usually used to help blend in the midrange. Also... See the control 'grayed out '? Set that say gray color and pixels that you change will be in color, the rest of the shaded image. You can see directly what you change.

  So... as you have three basic commands, Offset, Gain and Gamma, and three controls each for shadows, average and clear tones, you have a LOT of very refined tweaking you can do. Also... Note the vertical slider to the left Luma control for the facts tab highlights? In text turned on its side, it says mph... who is the pivot of control that defines WHERE on the scale of the end of the midrange and treble begins... you can move upwards or downwards. Among the witnesses of midtones, you have sliders on both sides, one for the breakpoint of shadows/Mids, one for the breakpoint Mids/facts highlights. Shadows tab has a pivot for the shadows/shades breakpoint.

  It affects all the cool things you can do with the secondary and masks and other... but it's long enough for now!

  Neil

• Problems after you have copied images of Time Machine on new computer

  My old iMac died, so I purchased a new one.  I wasn't able to find a way to restore the images of time machine for the new iMac via the Time Machine application, so I ended up opening finder, open the .db on Time machine and copy my 700 GB of images through, preserving the folder structure.  I open LR, restored my last catalog backup and pointed to the pictures folder. Everything was great.  Until I tried to import images from my last photo shoot.  LR could not import.  Then I found I couldn't create a folder inside LR.  I discovered that changes/moves/adds/copies in the finder required me to type my admin password.  This only happens within the folder hierarchy, that I imported Time machine.  I spent an hour in the repair of Auth Apple here in Thailand and that they could not understand how to disable permissions inside this folder to a single image.

  When I click on the sign more, I'm already here as a read/write user is admin.  My name and admin are shaded out and cannot be changed

• Image display full screen

  I have created a site scroll one page in the Muse. My intention is to each frame to have a full background image that goes to the edge of left to right on the window of the browser of the user (no white).

  I tried many things, but my result is always the same, white margins on the left and right. I tried to make an image of the filling of browser (do not know if this is what I want anyway, because the image needs to change to another page). And I tried setting Image shading across filling. The white margins appear again.

  My page width and image is 1160 pixels. Is - this too small? The solution is as simple as the increase in the width of 1250 px wide or more? Important, however, if the scale of the fill feature really works?

  Thank you.

  Please check these videos that described the steps:

  https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=diUtfwFGI1w

  https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=BDgERSf2a5k

  Thank you

  Sanjit

• No preview image deployed when you try to import new images, no possible imports all the

  Hello

  I use Lightroom 5.7.1 on a 'Late 2012 iMac' with Yosemite OS X.

  I installed Yosemite first and then Lightroom 5.

  After that I encountered the first problem (no preview images shown the import module when you try to import new images, the central part of the screen remains black, now shaded not extracted, nothing, no possible to import at all), I tried all possible changes to checkboxes and preference settings.

  After reading dozens of Internet Forum articles on very similar problems seem to many other users, I even deleted all preference setting files in the OS X Finder (a recommendation that has been said to succeed), however, the problem remains.

  Also, I completely deleted the software entirely from my iMac (including all the system and setting files), downloaded the latest version (5.7.1) Adobe, rebooted the system, installed new Lightroom, even restarted again, WITHOUT SUCCESS.

  What could I do? As I can't work at all with Lightroom, I would be very happy to get any help on this issue.

  Best regards

  Thomas.

  If the Destination Panel does not appear.

  You must make the Destination panel displayed on the right side by right-clicking one of the other items Panel (like "file management") and then place a check next to the Destination

• How I can levitate/Float of the images of cards to play

  Hello

  
  

  Some kind soul spirit which informed me as to how I can produce a picture, similar to the following, using Adobe Photoshop Touch (iPad): -.
  

  

  Are there special tools on Photoshop Touch that I should concentrate on? Is it really possible to get this type of effect floating / levitation with Photoshop Touch?
  
  The explanations or links to tutorials, thoughts and comments, would be greatly appreciated, because I can't understand how it's done.
  
  Thank you.

  
  -= Jazzdude =-

  Quick response: Compositing. (Yes. I don't know.)

  Longer answer: seriously, if it was me, I probably take a picture of each card in the stack and they accordingly after extraction and isolate each layer. (Check tutorials PS Touch as I think there is one in there any extract/selection of objects on a layer.) To get the perspective effect, you would have to take each stroke of each card from different angles. (for example, because the King is down, you would take a picture of the King in a way it's like you're almost hovering above him.) Ace, since it is at the top, almost would be level when taking the photo.) This will take time and patience and would be much easier if you had a configuration small studio with lighting consistent. (This would allow easier in composite if all your images have similar lighting.)

  One last thing: so that the image to be more convincing, I would add some more shading by combustion. None of the cards are casting shadows of each other.

  WE EDIT: I forgot to mention: the dimensions/size of your project in PS Touch will determine how many layers you will be able to work with. for example, a 4000 x 4000 pixels will give you max about 2 to 3 layers, so that a small project of 2000 x 2000 pixels will earn you more (maybe about 8 to 10). Keep this in mind because you will need about 6 layers or more.

• Why pdf images are blacked out when the document is downloaded?

  When I download a PDF file from the internet, many of the graphics are blacked out.  In some cases, this seems to happen when it is shading.

  I can usually get rid of the black areas by selecting and delete using the Acrobat X image editor.  We then see the underlying image.

  Just to be clear, this is not a question of being blocked by the author of the images.

  Why is this happening?  Any ideas would be appreciated.

  Finally, I found that the solution is to disable 'replace the colors in the document' in the preferences - accessibility.

• Difference in images after edit

  

  I was shooting timelapse, photos taken with the same settings and three seconds apart.
  Images of .raw looked and was still. After editing, some differences have occurred. If you look at the background images. This is the way it should be. But the top image seems to have lost some contrast. This has happened to a few images. Why what happened?

  If you look more closely. On the top of the images, you can see a few black undesirable object. This is my window. I could not open it no more, and the preserved wind move the frame of the window in my opinion. My floor is also a bit uneven, so whenever I went to check on my camera the inclined device. I come to stabilize and to crop images. But, the low contrast problem on the top of the page images seem to occur on the images when I stepped in front of the camera and created a movement. Still, the .raw image looked anyway. After is change what has happened. Shot in manual mode.

  That's my analysis that the black window in the top frame is initially the difference in brightness between the two raw images even if exactly the same exposure of the camera and Lightroom adjustments have been used.

  Toning Lightroom adjustments are a bit non-linear, that is, the content of the image indicates how things become lighter and darker.  This is especially true of whites, highlights, shadows, blacks and the clarity.

  In this situation, the frame at the top of the window is a darker dark object that whatever it is in the rest of the image, then it keeps the obscurities of becomes too dark, as if she wasn't there.

  It actually means that you cannot use shadows, blacks or the clarity with this sequence of raw due to varying amounts of black images.  The amount of clouds shading image will have also some effects, especially for clarity, but less compared to very dark or very bright pixels.

  For this sequence of images, the best thing to do is probably the FIRST crop images and the same so that no foreign window frame shows up on any of them, and THEN synchronize your white balance and other adjustments without colors and other tones - Reduction noise, sharpening and THEN do an Export of images in 16-bit with a color profile of ProPhotoRGB TIF.  Reimport into LR and do your toning and color adjustments.  It does not crop the raw images, because the toning adjustments always watch all pixels, including those outside the crop area, not only the visible pixels.

  RAWs and hair are not exactly the same thing in regard to the toning and color but you could start with toning bullies and synchronized with all hair colors settings and see if there are other adjustments.  Here is an example of my fact that when the first column of images are your two raw files with the same settings and the second column only being two cropped hair with the same settings.  You will notice that the Hill, especially the lower right, a different brightness between the two raws but the same brightness between the two objectives.

  

  --

  I don't know which would cause the difference in color in the night photos, above, unless it's a slow drift caused by the sensor of the camera warm-up with the use and the increase in high-ISO noise and affecting some colours more than others.  If you see a slow drift then this is probably the situation.  If you see the color to random change it back between the different frames, it's probably something else that I don't have a theory without more information.  A random fluctuation in color between different images usually occurs at the inside with fluorescent lighting, because the color and brightness changing with the a/c 50 Hz or 60 Hz frequency.  Cameras Nikon for a few years and the new cannons, detects this fluctuation and the shutter with the maximum brightness for each shot of a burst will look like the time.

• How to convert image HAVE layer extruded in AE

  This is, I think, a problem with my image features in IT.

  https://www.dropbox.com/s/6mg08q64wif80u8/lion%20Body%20Dup.AI

  

  Here is the image. I'm intrigued by his behavior when they are imported into AE of AI. There are 16 layers in artificial intelligence, but 52 when they imported the AE and converted to a shape layer.

  The layer named lion body, which I suspect contains the 36 extra layers, is invisible in AE as soon as I "Create forms of vector layer", although there seems to be many paths represented in it.

  Any ideas on how to get this image prepared for use within the AE? I have to re - trace it in AE? To HAVE it? to create a closed image?

  The f

  I can't download your image due to restrictions on the network where I work, but from the looks of things, you have a lot of vector shapes that passes. I suggest that you create (if it isn't there already), an outline of the lion. Extrude that and then use the image like it as a texture for your extrusion face. All black is just shading and if you try to extrude, it'll look pretty bad and weird.

• Premiere Pro CS6 foreclosure timeline - what is the significance of the blue shaded area?

  

  A new feature has been added by one of the recent updates to Premiere Pro CS6? Behind the numbers in the scale bar of time in the upper part of the timeline window is a movable blue shaded area that can be expanded or contracted (the cursor changes to a red check mark). I've highlighted in the red box in the picture as an attachment.

  This mean? I can't find anything online or in the classroom in a book! Do not do something obvious I can say and it makes me nuts trying to get out! (It's late and I'm a little more tired). Help, I want to sleep :-)

  If you mean the blue greenish below is the result of setting a point (or both).

  

  Just hold the Alt or Option key while clicking on as buttons. It will go away.

  Edit: I see that you added the image after reading your post. So yes, it is the result of the marking of points and output.