Short range focus Xperia Z3

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• help please, acer aspire R7 - 572 to very short range of wifi.

  I have my 2 month old acer aspire R7 - 572, my wifi speed is ok, but you must close to the router. Wifi problem is very short range, any suggustion to help me.

  You can search for "Aspire R7-572 Wifi card Issues" of this forum and see if this helps. There are some good suggestions.

• Range Focus limiter on the 100mm Macro F2.8

  On an ILCA - 77M 2, just how to deal with this switch

  Of the operating instructions of the Macro Sony SAL100M28 100 mm f/2.8 lens:

  "To focus on subjects at close range..., update fixed anywhere near the object, and then set focus-range up to LIMITlimiter; the focus range is limited to the range of big point. Similarly, when shooting subjects at an extreme range, set thefocus anywhere near the object and then set the limiter of development-range up to LIMIT; the focal range is limited to the range Far-getting to the point. Set the limiter of development-range FULL to allow the range of focus. »

  The SAL100M28 is a macro lens, and as such, it has a long beach of possible focus distances. In addition, in order to get the sharpest image possible, it adjusts the focus more slowly than a conventional lens. This means that should naturally be for some time to focus on a subject. The focus range limiter gives you the ability to limit the movement of the lens at half of its normal range, which speeds up the process.

  Do not use it at all ever, but it can help to to focus on your topic before it moves.

• Intel Wifi Link 1000 bgn short range

  Hello, I have RMA had my Ideapad Y560 2 times and still have a problem, they stated that the Wifi has been tested and fully functional. Here's my problem.

  I can ONLY get connected wireless to my router/modem when I'm in the same room as the router. Once I leave the room, I immediately lose the connection, or it shows as 'Access restricted' and I can not internet, even if the network is still detectable with a range of 4 to 5 bars.

  I use Windows 7 Home Premium, I also tried to use GNOME linux boot cd, I've updated to latest drivers, I put wireless in the management of energy for maximum performance in all cases, I disabled the "disable wireless when power economic option" same result.

  I called my ISP and they couldn't help either.

  If anyone can help me please let me know, I really hope I don't have to deposit to RMA a 3rd time Lenovo customer support is really great, but these guys are making too many errors on the end of the repair.

  Nope, I just got back from RMA, I was right it WAS the antennas. Works fine now, thanks Lenovo!

• HP 15-r012tx: wifi limited in range, short-range connected

  Please HELP me and explain to me pls with the language (no high-tech language)

  I just bought HP 15-r012tx, after 1 day that I installed it, nothing happened, wifi worked well. until the second day, suddenly, WIFI LIMITED, after that I tried the solution via google, nothing can solve my problems,

  and I found it my laptop can CONNECT to the router TP-LINK 3420, so closely with the router, about 1 to 3 m, but more than that, access will be LIMITED. The signal from the router is excellent (5 of 5).

  I did the reset ip via the command prompt, do the DNS manually, but still LIMITED (distal scope). I also do my driver Ralink RT3290 802.11bgn updated Wi - FI adapter and make homelessness hightest sensitivity via the properties (Device Manager)

  I did almost everything like the hp troubleshooting, for example 1 of many here: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-15-Notebook-PC-series/6875200/model/7132738/document/c0452930...

  But guess? nothing worked, help me, I'm frustrated because can not far from my router and have to sit in the middle of the scale

  PS: my laptop another access from away and the signal bar is maximum (5 5 0f) and works very well.

  Hi @3ten4 .

  Please contact our technical support at the 800-474-6836. If you do not live in the United States / Canada region, please click on the link for the number of support in your region. They will be happy to help you immediately.

  Thank you.

• Where the 'Focus range' in my 'selection '?

  I got a demonstration of image based Focus selections. But I did not 'Range Focus' in my "Select". Have I not t (download) something in order to get this possibility?

  You probably use Photoshop CC.

  Select > focus area is a new feature of Photoshop CC 2014.

• WAP 121 range problem

  Hello

  I WAP121 AP, I am facing a problem of scope, not covering as much distance.

  How to check the AP coverage distance?

  Are there tools to get the actual distance covering each AP (in meter) because my client wants to detail test report?

  What is the coverage of the normal distance of WAP121, if you consider without any interference and without walls?

  Thank you

  Jean Christophe brahim

  My name is Eric Moyers. I am an engineer in the Small Business Support Center.

  I'm sorry to hear that you are experiencing this issue.

  Distance or coverage is not an exact science when you talk about a customers environment. The reason is that each situation is different. If your reading of wireless signals and coverage, all of these numbers is usually based on an ideal environment with little or no interference.

  The bad news is that almost all customer environments will suffer from some type of problem that will degrade the scope and the speed of the signal.

  The scope of any access point WiFi signal given varies also significantly from device to device. The factors that determine the range of an access point include:

  • the 802.11 standard specific to the Protocol it works
  • the strength of its transmitter device
  • the nature of the obstacles physical and/or parasites radio in the vicinity

  A general rule in home networks, explains that traditional operating on the 2.4 GHz band Wi - Fi routers achieve up to 150 feet (46 m) indoors and 300 feet (92 m) outside. New 802.11n and 802.11ac routers that work on the bands of the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz vary similarly increased.

  Physical barriers in homes as brick and steel or cladding walls reduce the scope of a network Wi - Fi of 25% or more. Due to the laws of physics, 5 GHz Wi - Fi connections are more sensitive to obstacles than 2.4 GHz and will in fact a shorter range but a better signal.

  Interference of the radio signal of microwave ovens and other devices also negatively affects the beach Wi - Fi network. Because 2.4 GHz radio is commonly used in consumer gadgets, these connections Wi - Fi protocols are more sensitive to interference inside residential buildings.

  In order to better determine a right course of action for you and your client could you give some details about the environment that the WAP is located? What is its current scope? What is the charge? How many customers he's trying to connect?  What type of building is there, construction wise, how many rooms, etc.

  If you prefer, you can also call our support center and to prosecute so that one of our engineers can work directly with you.
  http://www.Cisco.com/c/en/us/support/Web/TSD-Cisco-small-business-suppor...

  Eric Moyers
  .:|:.:|:. CISCO | Pre-sale technical support of Cisco | Expert on wireless

  Please note the useful messages and let know when your question has been answered.

• Possibilities of macro?

  Thanks for reading this.
  I like to take pictures of things like insects and small lizards. I found a really cool Mantis yesterday in the garden and took some pictures of it. I used my 70-200 with the 1.4 tc which was pretty good, but I could of course not very close because the limits of depth of focus. I am considering getting the barrel extension tubes: EF 12 II and EF 25 II. What is a good way to go? Here's something that you would use as well as a tc on a 70-200? Or is the wrong type of lens for this kind of work? I also had an initial investigation of the flash macro circular rings. But I am assuming that they would work with my 70-200 cause of large diameter of the front element. He seems to have a lot of options for macro set ups. What kind if the installer should be to make the pretty decent macro shots? I was a big fan of Igor Siwanowicz' work for a very long time.

  See you soon,.
  CG.

  Hello

  As ebiggs says, there are several ways to make macro shots.

  Personally, I use a number of extension tubes (a set of Kenko of 3-36, 20 & 12 mm - more a 25mm cannon and two Canon 12 mm). These are always useful to have, and I wouldn't be without a few in my camera bag, all the time. They are inexpensive and can allow you to get this macro or close-up when you do not have a lens macro with you, or can be used to increase the capabilities of a true macro lens beyond magnification is 1:1 (general) potential, or simply used to get the nearest minimum focus distance with a telephoto lens.

  For example, this was shot with EF 70-200/2.8 IS, Canon 25 mm extension tube and 550EX flash (filling)...

  

  I have been hunting of birds and did not have a macro with my lens.

  For sub image to frame the small Bush * i * (replace the astericks with "t"... the cyber censorship allow me to use the actual name of this bird) as tight as I wanted, I needed to add a 36mm extension tube to an EF 500/4 IS lens, so that the lens to focus more closely...

  

  While they are not necessarily designed for the macro or almost macro work teleconverters (Canon calls Extenders) change the effective focal length of a lens, but leave its closest distance focal length quantity... so will increase the potential of magnification. In order to get the slot kick a little fence lizard, I have had to use time - Canon EF 1. 4 X II and an extension of 25 mm - 300/2.8 IS lens...

  

  More the focal length of your lens, the effect less any given amount of expansion will give. An extension of 25mm changes slightly the magnification and the closest focusing distance of a 300mm lens... But the same amount of extension on a 50mm lens would have dramatic effect.  Next image was shot with 12mm on the EF 50/1.4 lens extension...

  

  Even more extreme, the following was shot with 12mm on an EF 20/2.8 lens extension (I wanted an extra depth of field to keep more detailed background)...

  

  During the filming of the foregoing, the petals of flowers were actually touch the front element of the lens! Can't get much closer than that!

  The macro above or near macro shots were made using lenses "non-macro" that have been made to concentrate more than normally possible, using extension tubes. Those who can work, but there are some advantages to true macro lenses, too. I personally use four in my Canon Kit: Tamron SP AF 60mm f2.0, Canon MP-E 65mm f2.8, Canon 100/2.8 USM (not the L / IS) and Canon 180 / 3.5 L. I also use a Canon TS - E 45/2.8 for big jobs and occasionally a target macro Tamron SP 90/2.5 1:2 vintage, adapted.

  When you force non-macro lens to focus closer than expected, there may be side effects. For example, the shot of the rose bud above has a pretty strong vignetting and softer edges. It's characterisic of the EF 50/1.4 lens when it is done to focus very narrow and more openness is used... It is not necessarily a bad thing. I used the lens with extension deliberately for this one, because I wanted so much vignetting and soften the effects.

  One thing, you don't need to worry with 'real' macro lenses is image quality. In general, they are all very able to make beautiful pictures. It is lower for other features of macro lenses that set apart them from each other.

  Focal length is probably the main consideration. Too short a macro lens can get awfully close to your subjects, which could scare the living creatures, or do you throw an unwanted shadow on the subject or not even you bit or stung! A longer lens gives you more space to work, but a long lens is hard to get a stable shot and makes very very shallow depth of field.

  If I could have only one, I would choose my USM Canon EF 100/2.8 macro lens. It's the best all around for my purposes, on both devices of cultures (like yours, although I use 7Ds) and full frame (5 d MkII). 90 to 105mm gives the reasonable working distance, but it is quite easily portable for quick shots. DOF is still shallow, but manageable enough without resorting to ridiculously small openings where lighting is a problem and optical diffraction robs fine detal of images.

  Here's an example shot with my 180 / 3.5 L, which demonstrates how depth of field thin razor can get with such a long focal length...

  

  Even if it's a fairly large bee, the plan of sharpness is only of a few mm of depth. This was shot near 1:1 on full frame (with a film camera, actually). The lens and the camera are resting on the ground to help keep their constant. Something close to 100mm is much more easily portable, not too big and makes a bit more depth of field.

  There are other features of the Canon EF 100/2.8 USM which make a great macro lens, IMO.

  It's 'internal focus' (IF), which means that it does not grow in length when you focus it close, so don't cut your work remotely (note: 100L, Tamron 60/2 and 180 / 3.5 L are also IF lenses). However, there is no such thing as a free lunch, with optics. In order for the 100/2.8 if it starts raining that some other lenses of similar focal length. And the focus distance actually changes somewhat because it brought closer. I heard max with 1:1 magnification, it is closer to the 70mm lens... but it is not particularly notable in the field of work with the goal.

  100/2.8 USM macro lens on a crop sensor camera, with 550EX flash, pocket...

  

  Version 100/2.8 that I use has player development USM, which gives it an autofocus fast enough for a macro lens. Macro lenses tend to be slower to focus for a few reasons. One is that they must move their items focusing a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is that most precision signals more speed, so use what is called a mechanism of the development of "throw long". In the old days of manual focus, you have to turn the focus ring a lot more away with a target at long range. Short-range lenses were built for speed and could be used for sports photography. By car from the 100mm USM (who are also the EF - S 60 / 2.8, 100 and 180 / 3.5 L) makes more than one lens dual use, more usable for purposes of non-macro. Despite USM, the 180/3.5 L is significantly more slow development and not as useful for the non-macro works.

  I make the distinction between macro and non-macro focus because often the macro shooting focuses more easily manually. I use AF sometimes, but just as often or more often use the development manual method or the other.  But if you want to use as a non-macro, also, moderate telephoto lens it can be enjoyable if it is reasonably fast to the point. Another advantage of USM, it's that you haven't disable AF before substitution manually. (Note: there was a version prior to EF 100/2.8, abandoned years ago, that has no USM).

  For me, one of the most important features of the Canon 100 mm macro lenses is that they may fit with a Ruff of the tripod mounting. The 100/2.8 USM uses tripod ring B (b) and 100L tripod D ring. I'm not aware of any other macro lenses less than 150mm than a being mounted with a ring of tripod and for me, this is a very important feature. A lot of macro photography is made of a tripod or monopod. That is one of the reasons I really don't think that he had to upgrade to the new version IS..., the more it costs much more. In addition, the stabilization is of limited effectiveness when shooting macro... If this can be nice when you use the goal for non-macro purposes (except that I have several other lenses, so do not rely on the macro for dual use that much). The 180 / 3.5 L and most other 150 mm and more macro lenses equipped with a tripod ring.

  Speaking of stabilization, the Canon 100 L uses a hybrid form developed especially for macro, which obviously is one of the most effective. However, the 1:1 mag, it could only be good for one or two stops of assistance. For non-macro photos, the IS could give three or four stops assistance.

  I had the Tamron SP 60/2.0 recently because it is quite small and light, easy to store in my camera bag, when I don't know if I'll take any macro shots or not, have other gear to carry around. The same is true for the Canon EF - S 60/2.8 USM, it is just as compact. I opted for the Tamron for its opening of f2, mainly in order to use the lens for portraits, as well. Both the Canon and the Tamron 60 mm lenses are "cultures only" (all other macros mentioned are capable of FF).  I don't have the images uploaded of him online yet, but have found the quality to be good enough. It is a bit slow focusing... no problem for the macro or portraits, but not a goal I would use for sport and shooting action. I imagine that the Canon with its USM is developed faster.

  

  I used to use the vintage (25-30 years) Tamron 90 mm as my macro "compact" (shown on one of my 7Ds, above)... and he is used to this end but was less useful for portraits. Yet, for a goal which cost me about 60 US $. It's $20 for the lens - like new with hood, 1:1 adapter, caps and a Nikon Adaptall mount - plus $40 for a China Adaptall-EOS mount.  It is slower to work with. Set to manual focus, as well as manual control of the opening, but did a good job (here with the extension tube of 36mm to increase the magnification).

  

  The other lenses I mentioned use are more specialized. The Canon MP-E 65mm macro is a very high magnification, the manual focus lens. The magnification less he can give is 1:1, where most other macro lenses are at their maximum (unless you add extension for them tubes). It goes back to 5 / 1 or 5 X life size, so, essentially, can fill the frame on one of my 7Ds with a grain of rice.  Image made with the MP - E 65mm here is a tiny snail, newly hatched which was smaller than the nail on my pinky, at 2 X magnification...

  

  I must say, I would not recommend the MP-E 65mm as a first macro lens. It will especially be a lens only tripod. Depth of field is incredibly deep. Due to the extension of the objective, it's more small aperture of f16 becomes something like an effective f96 at higher magnification. I'll have to work on the development of techniques of stacking with this lens (and will need something much slower moving than a snail, shoot those!).

  I use the lens 'Tilt Shift' TS - E 45mm especially for close-ups of small product... Shoots of studio on table, like this that was one of hundreds of fact for the customer's Web site...

  

  Magnification with the 45mm alone isn't really the territory of the macro, but it allows a single control in terms of development with the tilt movements, as well as ways to dodge the reflections with the movements of travel. It is the manual focus lens, too. For higher magnfication work, the TS-E 90mm might be a better choice and magnification of two lenses can be increased by using extension tubes.

  As for flash, there are choices with those, too. There are specialized macro flashes or ways to use standard flashes for macro photos.

  I used a Canon MR - 14EX Ringlite for turned snail, above. I mainly only use a ring light with very high magnificatioin shots... to the low mags just light seems flat and 'clinical' for me. As far as I know, the MR-14EX is pretty much dedicated to Canon lenses, since it clips directly on the lens, locking silver that is on the Canon lenses.

  MR-14EX on MP-E 65mm, on 7 d...

  

  More often, especially for 1:1 magnification and more low blows, I use Canon MT - 24EX Twin Lite or a unique and standard flash with some minor changes. The Twin Lite is great, but a package large enough and not very useful for non macro. Also, it is designed to attach on the front of the Canon lenses, but is more flexible because it can be used with a more generic double flash support, too.

  Image of LH: MT-24EX normally mounted. Center: Double Lepp/Stroboframe flash support. Image of HR: MT-24EX on support Lepp.

     

  But do not use a dedicated, macro flash either. Often I will just use a flash unique and standard cord shoes off camera so that I can stand to the side of or above the object...

  

  Note that I put two coats of white qauze bandage on the flash head, maintained by a rubber band. This reduces and diffuse the power of the flash so that it can be used near a small subject. A single flash works surprisingly well, because compared to a small topic, it's like a giant light box in the sky. This Mantis was shot using something similar to the above setup (and EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens)...

  

  Enjoy you shopping!

  Macro is lots of fun... and a lot easier today than it was back in the good/bad old days of film! One of my old rigging...

  

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• The dual SSID Signal interference

  I have the cable and Internet provided by AT & T.  I mainly had Comcast when you live in different parts of the country.  I am owner of an Airport Extreme and Time Capsule I used previously to set up the network internal in addition to the SSID broadcast material of the cable company.  I never had a problem before using AT & T.  I noticed that the Internet speeds both the provider of cable and speed on the internal network have been seriously degraded.  I was unable to stream movies.  After several attempts to solve the problems with AT & T and myself, I found the problem: it seems to be interference of signals between AT & T and Airport Extreme material each broadcasting separate SSID in very close to one another.  I got the Apple hardware, and the problem was solved immediately.  While I'm happy to have it fixed, I don't miss the advantage of having the internal network using Apple devices.  What are my options?  Is it correct that I can't use the Apple devices to extend the SSID signal emissions equipment AT & T?  I think the problem might be solved, perhaps, if the two gateways were not close to one another, but I do not have another spot to plug the Airport Extreme.

  Is it correct that I can't use the Apple devices to extend the SSID signal emissions equipment AT & T?

  Unfortunately correct.

  Apple routers work that to extend another router from Apple... no other brand is invited to the party.

  I think the problem might be solved, perhaps, if the two gateways were not close to one another, but I do not have another spot to plug the Airport Extreme.

  Separate the two routers as much as you can... I always recommend 6feet or about 2 M. If they are closer than this really a wireless should be turned off. Only for this case deactivate the ATT router instead of your apple.

  There are enough wireless channels to run 3 wireless routers close to each other.

  Sometimes the automatic separation of channels does not work and you need to get and change physically.

  Use wireless diagnostics (many versions available, but it is built into Mac OS since the Mountain Lion)

  There are a bunch of tools... the actual diagnosis is not particularly useful in my experience.

  

  Open scan.

  

  You will need to click on it to see the whole thing.

  Now, I have a few questions... first, I'm not showing noise... This is just my configuration problem. But you should see RSSI (signal level), noise, channel, band, width and country.

  Watch channels... My installation has some problems because most of the 2.4 ghz is using channel 11.

  The diagnosis tells you even what channels to use.

  

  I can open airport utility and select one of the units in issue. Click the icon from the airport... Click on edit in the preview.

  

  Go to the wireless tab.

  

  Click Wireless options

  

  Change the automatic 2.4 ghz regardless of the channel you want.

  

  Save and update from the airport.

  Especially for 5 GHz, I think that your stay on auto should be fine. It is more short-range and isn't usually a big problem.

  Note also the signal strength really counts... things go wrong if you don't have enough separation and the signal strength is low.

  2.4 GHz, there are only 3 channels Alcan... 1, 6, 11

  Although Diagnostics of scanning you will offer between channels... do not be fooled that this corrects the problem.

  Read the wiki for wireless lan.

  https://en.Wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels

  Channel 6 for example is actually peak signal to 6, but it covers 4 to 8.

• Internet high speed & 1stgen AirportExpress

  Recently I upgraded my internet speed to 150Mbps. using my (model A1264) 1stGen Airport Express, I am only able to get 50Mbps to my office. My iMac is at short range with my router. My internet is slow speed b/c my Express is outdated? A new Express will allow me received the speeds I have upgraded to or is a desperate need? On the 2nd floor, there is an another desktop or home that connects to the internet regularly (teenage son online games).

  The 1 st Gen AirPort Express and 2nd Gen AirPort Express have only 100 Mbit/s Ethernet ports, so in theory, it would be the top speed that the Express could never offer.

  To the extent where wireless is concerned, 50 - 60 Mbps would be what to expect from an AirPort Express which is provided a 100 Mbps connection, since he has never been known for its performance wireless... primarily because of a small simple antennas buried in the product.

  A new AirPort Extreme has 1 000 Mbps Ethernet ports and the much higher speed wireless capability... (six wireless antennas all located towards the top at the top of the "tower")... which would be the product to try if you want to stay with a router from Apple.  At Apple, and you buy a 14 day no questions asked return guarantees, so if the product does not wait, it may be returned for credit or refund.

• Satellite 1905-S303 PCI Wireless card does not start code 10

  I put a PCI BCM94306PM broadcom wireless card in my laptop. The laptop is equipped with led however one is damaged and can not be connected, these cards may work with only one side and I even read somewhere that they can work on a short range with no led. My problem is the Device Manager indicates that the device cannot start code 10. I have a fresh install of XP Pro SP1 (not from the original restore disk). With this in mind, I think there must be some Toshiba utility or the missing driver to allow the map to work. Any help appreciated.

  Hello

  Code 10 means that it is not present, not working not properly, or does not have all the drivers installed.
  In this case you need to download the latest driver on Toshiba website and install it.

  Best regards

• Satellite Pro U400 - how your last long battery time

  Hello everyone!

  I bought a toshiba laptop (satellite pro u400), but I think he has a very short range, about 1 h.
  Someone like that have a computer toshiba laptop?

  How long your battery last time?

  Thank you!!!

  GLO :-)

  Hello

  I have a U400 and I also use it with the battery.

  I use it for surfing the internet and writing
  Execution of the laptop with battery I always set the brightness to the minimum, and in this case I can use it for about two hours.

  If the screen light is set to max and the HARD drive and the CD/DVD drive works then your battery time will likely decline at a time.

  So, as you can see the battery time work depands defintialy on the use of the laptop...

  Welcome them

• 802. 11a for Qosmio G20-126 wireless?

  I have read the product manual and the laptop seems to have at least documentation in favour after having been cleared for use on 802. 11A.

  My question is, is he a 5 GHz antenna, installed in the laptop and is it possible to change the map of Intel Pro Wireless 2200bg for the most recent map of 2195ABG Intel Pro Wireless instead?

  I really need since the community I live 30 wireless networks in a short range and all channels are blocked by routers at low prices which tend to cause collisions on the 2.4 Ghz band. I wouldn't want a book this wonderful and did not what I feel is almost standard feature in expensive laptops today.

  Thanks in advance.

  Hello

  Well, I found the information that this device supports WiFi standard 802. 11 b/g.
  Moreover, I found the information in the user manual which has the characteristics of radio wireless LAN cards can vary in function:
  -/region of the country where the product was purchased
  -product type

  Wireless LAN networking products have been designed to operate in the unlicensed 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, local radio regulations strip can impose a number of limitations to the use of wireless communication equipment.

  In my opinion, you should try this card if it works. If this isn't the case, you can return this card to your local dealer.

  In addition, please consult the manual of the user-> Appendix C

  Good bye

• Disconnected Ribbon plastic

  When I was cleared a paper inside my HP Office Jet 6500 E709n jam, I somehow now have a disconnected plastic Ribbon that I need to reconnect.  I can't find a diagram inside my printer or instructions on how and where to reconnect this Ribbon plastic.  Any help would be appreciated.  I don't want to take the printer to a repair shop I don't have to.

  mdiane51

  The following assumes that you can easily move the carriage to the Center.  If it is locked Please let me know and I will consider how to unlock.

  The steps are rather involved.  Take your time and do not force anything.  Open the lid and gently move the transport to the Center.  If the transport is stuck to the right stop, leave me a message.  Wash and dry your hands before you start the process.  Coding Strip has thousands of tiny lines that are used to position the transport, you do not want leave any residue on the Strip or damage marks.

  Take a close look at the coding Strip.  At one end is a point, at the other end is a triangle and two smiling faces. When installed properly the point will be on the left side and the triangle and the smiley face will be on the right side.  Look at the following picture, it shows the coding Strip, mounted on the right side.  The right has a spring, but it has a very short range of motion.   Take a look at the right side of the printer (using a flashlight) and locate the rectangular hole where the coding Strip attaches.  [Note: I put a card index behind the encoder to improve the contrast of the image...]

  

  Then look up the transport.  There are small rectangular holes of each side that the encoder is screwed through.   The photo below shows the encoder entering the right side of the cart.  Locate the holes on both sides and get acquainted with them.

  

  The third picture is the left side.  Tang metal that the encoder will connect is hard to see.  It is a small metal protrusion (maybe 1/16 ") that points to the left side of the printer.  Use a flashlight to familiarize yourself with the flavor that you connect eventually to.  As practice try to hang the MICR band to the tab on the left side, then disconnect it.

  

  The image below is a bulk of the flavor of that coding Strip will connect, I stuck a small piece of cardboard behind it.

  

  OK now, indeed, we will perform the fix.  Pick up the strip of coding and orient it properly, smiley face on the right.  Thread the encoder through the slots of transport.  This can be difficult to thread through everything right and come out the other side and don't have no kinks.  Gently pull the encoder back and make sure it moves freely.

  We then attach the encoder for spring on the right side.  Once the encoder has been attached on the right side maintain slight pressure on it to prevent it from becoming disconnected.

  Now let's complete the process by attaching the remaining end on the left side gently. It will be a little difficult.  I would say the truck is right to do so out of the way.  Now, grab the MICR band, gently then she so approximately 1/8 "extends into the hole and hang it on the tail.  It took me a few minutes to do this, take your time.

  OK, now it's complete, but we will check a few things before put us under tension.  Move the carriage to the Center and look at the coding Strip happening in transportation.  Make sure that the coding is roughly centered in the rectangular opening for the transportation as shown on the picture of transport above.  Also check that the transport can move freely from one side to the other.

  We are now ready for the moment of truth.  Close the lid and plug the printer back in and turn it on.  If it works fine, click on some of the 'Kudos stars' left.  If this isn't the case, please let me know what you see error messages.  You may need to run a cleaning cycle to clear the print head, since the print head will have been capped for a prolonged period of time.

• WiFi 802.11 b, g, n (2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz), why is the razr not able to use 5 GHz?

  I was wondering why we are not able to use 5.0 GHz, does make a difference? Totally, I do not know. Maybe you guys can help me. Thank you!

  (please not all values are estimated and not 100% accurate)

  The only advantage on the 5 GHz will be noticed if you're less 1 mtr from the router once you pass the 1mtr threshold you will lose any advantage in speed so your phone will automatically be seleect the 2 GHz band.

  5 GHz bandwidth may push your wifi connection up to 300Mbit while 2 GHz is limited to about 190Mbit

  but on 802.11n distance plasys much of the speed you will actually recive therfore in the case of mobile phones there is no great advantage in the phone, a connection of 5 ghz as if you where to walk away from your router 3mtr aprox you up to 180Mbit in speed is (in my opinion) main reason why phones do not hold a connection of 5 ghz for a long time.

  the 2 ghz range will be a higher speed over a longer distance (this is on 802.11n)

  However if you have an 802. 11 a router then the benefits of the 5gzh is capped at 190mbit however, you can hold a stronger signal over a longer distance compared to 802.11n the problem here is that the routers are configured more to computers and personal computers portable therfore so they droped the 802. 11 a band and open until the speed 802.11n short-range can on long distance, is no great loss because your device will automatically change to load of bands on your remote (this can be demonstrated by your router at 5 GHz to lock if it supports doing so)

  and you will also notice that your razr connect to band 5 GHz in the present case.

  In required short is correct in the statement there is no advantage to 5 GHz running more than 2 GHz.

  I hope this explains a little about your problems.

  Kind regards

  Kristian