DSLR A77 & HVL-F43AM problem

Similar Questions

• A77 memory card problem

  Help, please!  I put an SD card in my A77 and get an error message indicating "written on the memory card has not been completed successfully."  Retrieve data? "I then press"Enter"and the following message appears on the screen is"executed? This could damage the date to which has been added or changed in another device "."  I hit 'Enter' again and it says "reinsert the memory card you use.  I removed and then reinserted memory cards but get the same message.  Don't know what this means, but I'm not able to go beyond this step.  I hope that I don't have a faulty camera for photos of the holiday week.  I had no problem until this morning.  Any advice?  Thank you

  Make sure that your photos are saved... maybe a new chip and leave the camera to format. If you have all your photos on the computer to format the card in the camera, if it does not format in the computer and try that. If this is not hit service upwards on the camera.

• Sony a99 and flashes wireless

  I bought a second one for flash my a99 recently in hopes of using 2 flashes in mode without wire - but, unfortunately, it doesn't seem to work (or maybe I'm doing somehting wrong)

  I have f56 and Sony f42. F56 is set in wireless mode (the Red led blinks) and my f42 lies on the camera (connected through the adapter) and it is also set in wireless menu mode (Fn key). Tried to change these 2 flashes autour but one that is not connected to the camera never fires.

  Any ideas on what I might hurt?

  This is what I understand of these cards, wireless remote control, no trigger.

  In the note, they say that they require the F58 F43, models.
  They are the new models that provide wireless (trigger) controllers

  http://photo-tips-online.com/news/2011/Sony-HVL-f43am-Flash-vs-Sony-HVL-f42am-Flash/
  As he mentions here, the F42 cannot be a *, so that even if the F56 had the function of wireless control, the F42 doesn't have the remote function to use.

  But from the charts, I'm sure that the F56 isn't a wireless trigger - but I could be wrong.

  However, even if it is possible, even once, the F42 hate.

  If your only option is to have the main flash triggering the other flash via flash. If I remember correctly, is that optical trigger - based on another source of light flash to be triggered.

  Then put the second flash * mode and the main firearms with the camera.

  If you plan to have two cameras off camera, you will need to use a separate radio trigger, so you can wireless trigger for both.

• Alpha 7 R flash

  Can I use either of the Sony HVL-F43AM or HVL-F20AM flashes with the camera A7R?  I own both, but when I look at the A7R news that I received yesterday they don't seem to adapt or operate with the camera.  Is it possible that they will work together?

  Hi dsfoneonta! Your F43AM HVL and HVL-F20AM locking system uses automatic shoe while the camea A7R has the multi-interface shoe. You can use Flash with the A7R using an adapter (ADP-MAA) hoof.

  I hope this helps.

  If my post answered your question, please mark it as "accept as a Solution.

• How to use ring flash Metz on A99?

  Hi, can someone share with me how to use the Metz mecablitz 15 MS - 1 on A99? I put an extra flash on the claw in order to use the TTL wireless on the ring flash? Thank you very much!

  Hello

  For the use of the function of the Metz 15 MS-1 wireless flash control flash on the camera must be present. On the SLT - A99, who does not have a flash version, you can use any flash that supports the mode control Sony for external flashes:

  • HVL-F20AM
  • HVL-F20M
  • HVL-F43AM
  • HVL-F43M
  • HVL-F58AM
  • HVL-F60M

  Note: For use with "AM" flashes the adapter shoe ADP - MAA is necessary.

  Furthermore, the Metz 15 MS-1 support (no-measure TTL) manual operation by connecting the flash sync cable to sync-PC taking on the camera.

  Kind regards

  Michael

• HVL-F42AM does not work w / Alpha 230 DSLR

  My flash HVL-F42AM looks like it is no longer in communication with my DSLR A230 when mounted. Whenever I try to take a picture with her attached, the on-camera flash hood tries to pop up and fire the flash on the camera. I tried to switch from manual to automatic camera modes and then the auto flash, but the problem remains still. I tried flash terminals to friction with an eraser - no luck. Any ideas what else could happen?

  Thank you!

  Even if it looks like you have found a solution to the problem, just double check that the flash is connected correctly. When you install the flash on the shoe, you should be able to hear a nattering soft when the flash is connected correctly.

• Problems with video DSLR and PR crashing

  Hello! I am a new user at first and am having some problems to import the video DSLR (5Dmk3 24 p). I did a lot of research and have found a few people with similar problems, but I wasn't able to work through to understand. So now I'm looking at the best of the best.

  My problems: (Note: when I say crash, I mean blocks indefinitely.) "I've never seen an error through it all).

  • Premiere Pro (5.5) sometimes crashes when I import videos. There seems to be some videos that make the first hang but I can't isolate the problem to a file either. A single file will PR plant a time, when I restart the program the same file will import correctly. It is quite rare where I can import an entire folder (~ 20) videos, but it happens from time to time.
  • When I have all my imported videos, when I open my project that some videos will show offline. Like my previous problem, the files change everytime I open the first. Sometimes, when I save the project with these items off line, PR will crash when I try to close it.

  Video of the problem: (forgive my poor TV character )

  • First crashing on import of video files-> http://jonyoder.com/video/PR-screencast.MP4
  • Videos don't just not online and very probably the problem... QuickTime--> http://jonyoder.com/video/PR-screencast2.mp4

  My computer: processor Intel i5, Windows 7 65 bit, 16 GB of RAM, 60 GB SSD HD, 1.5 TB of storage SSD. First is updated (5.5.0 233), I have all driver/computer updates I know.

  I tried to reinstall Quicktime (several times) and then reinstalling also first. I tried to change the drive working, Adobe CS agent said I need to import the files one by one and office, but no use. A work around for this kind of work is to import several files, save, import, save, etc., so that when the first fails, I can keep import where I left.

  This problem is really annoys me and I would therefore appreciate it if someone of you has wisdom to share. I read online where someone had a similar problem and ended up in a different codec to work around the problem of encoding again, but I don't want to do. Thank you!

  We have seen some cases where the 5 d MKIII files do not import correctly. (The MKIII is out after CS5.5 and uses a different format than the 5 d MKII) To work around the problem, you can rename the file extension (you can automate this process through Adobe Bridge if you have a lot of clips) of. MOV to. MP4. This will cause Premiere Pro process files with a different import module that will handle the file correctly.

• Technical problem: body CS5.5 will not play DSLR MOVs

  Hello!

  I'm new to body CS5.5 (first day, actually) and I can't read. MOV to my Canon 5 d Mk2 (with audio). All other file formats I've tried has worked, which is very bad because I bought the Production Premium package just for working with DSLR images.

  It's okay if I create a sequence (still did not understand what it is for) with/for files or not, it doesn't matter what project settings that I have. After I launch the application, I can play (or scrub) DSLR files for 10 seconds max before the output begins to jump erratically in the clip (the playhead does not), then in turn green (RGB: 0 x 008600), sometimes interposed with images of other clips that were played before, sometimes even garbage. There is no recovery from this. All other file formats continue to work properly. 'New project' or exit the application can then take up to a minute while the program remains insensitive and looks that it broke down. It's totally unusable (the competition and all other software works very well with files).

  I have a Win7 64 bit 3.4 GHz Sandybridge system with 16 GB of RAM. Hard drives are big, fast and fast enough to handle the video DSLR. There is no other applications running in the background (really nothing like the computer is not connected to the internet) and there is a lot of memory and available hard drive space.

  What I can do or what wrong? Thanks in advance.

  ... Mike

  A quick scan on the thread looks like no one has yet suggested another possible fix.

  CS 5.5 has a problem with Nikon D7000 media.  Adobe is aware and working on the fix.  In the meantime, Nikon all users need to do is change the extension to .mpg .mov files and files work fine.

  You can try the same thing with your Canon files.

• Problem with first decoding or preview files using Canon DSLR on PC

  Use: First CS5.5

  Problems on laptops and desktop

  Laptop: 12 GB RAM

  Intel: i7

  1.5 GB of Nvidia

  Office: 16 GB of RAM

  Intel: i7

  SSD: 256

  GTX 470

  Is not all clips, but probably 1/5th clips will have 3 or 4 frames of the clamp of the screen randomly corrupt pixels.  See this gif (ignore the interlaced effect), on the lower part. http://i.imgur.com/Kx5Yb.gif

  It is with DSLR no transcoding to 1080 p, 23.976

  If I go into the source file, it plays fine on VLC and Quicktime.  If I delete and re-import the clip, it does the same thing.  If I delete, rename, import the clip, it does the same thing.

  Need help please, it is a puzzle to me.  Transcoding is not an ideal solution.

  Your file is broken. Despite having said that it plays in QuickTime, it does not work:

  

  It's a little more difficult to notice in QT Player, but it is there; It is easier to notice if you move through levels, frame-by-frame in the clip with the arrow keys left and right.

  So, it's not a matter of Premiere Pro; There is something causing your clips corrupted. My first guess would be a bad CF card, but it could be something as Benin as a copy process borked (CF on hard disk) to something as serious a problem with your digital SLR. I don't think there is anyway to fix these files; My usual stuff did not work, which suggests that it is not a problem of container, but a problem with the video stream itself real.

  Bad luck.

• Problem with my Sony DSLR A100

  I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but here goes.

  My camera won't take pictures when I press the button and the display flashes when I try.

  Is it broken, what I have to do to fix it?
  I have also restarted the camera, and who did nothing.

  If you can help that would be great, thanks.

  Hello
  Welcome to the forums.
  If you see a flash (image disappears briefly) when looking through the viewfinder, it is most likely a speed of slow shutter or collage. You may need service. Please contact support for deeper troubleshooting.
  http://eSupport.Sony.com/us/Perl/suppor... l = DSLRA100

• update problems since macOS Sierra to iMovie

  Hi everyone, I hope someone can help me out here because I'm starting to get really frustrated.

  I have a MacBook Pro and yesterday I upgraded to macOS Sierra and I regret it now because when I wanted to work with iMovie today he is more worked how it used to. I make youTube videos for a living and I'm already a day behind my schedule download because of this problem. Basically what is happening, it's only when I imported my video files to my SD card into iMovie files seemed normal, however when I put them in a project and began to play them I noticed that the color was distant, it almost looks like there is a misty overlay. At first I thought that maybe my DSLR camera has broken out and checked the files on the SD card (played files to QuickTime) but they seem quite normal and how they should look, iMovie for a reason any turns them... I have no idea how to solve this problem, because I'm not even sure what really is the problem. Can someone help me please?

  Hi, Anny,

  I don't know what is happening with the change of color in your timeline.   Whenever there is an upgrade of the operating system there always is the possibility of conflicts with specific applications until the bugs have been worked.  So, it is possible that your question is related to your recent update to OS Sierra - hard to say.  I'm not aware of anyone who still displays with your problem.

  Given that the problem appears only in your timeline, maybe media are complex and your computer is hard to deal with in the time line or keep in touch with your editing.

  You can see if the problem is linked project by creating a new project with the same or different media.   Is it possible to have a color filter activated inadvertently?  You can also try to reopen iMovie while maintaining the option and command keys and selecting Remove preferences.  Sometimes, it allows to launch iMovie in a different account, as your guest account, in which case there is a conflict with your current user account.  If none of the works above, you can try to create a new library on your boot drive or disk formatted Apple iMovie and see if your projects are working properly.   Another possibility is to restore your old operating system from Time Machine.

  In any case, I think that once the film is shared out he will play with his normal colors.  Try sharing file on your desktop to confirm that.   If he plays well, at least you'll be able to keep your schedule download then you want to solve your problem.

  Best,

  Rich

• How to display images of a DSLR on the iPad without their import?

  Hello

  I had a mini iPad and I want to use to view images taken with a digital SLR. I have a Flash to the USB adapter and a Flash of camera SD card reader. I have tried both to display the images, but I can use them only to import images with the photos app. The problem now is that the memory of the iPad is too small, so that I can import only a fraction of the images stored on the SD card of the DSLR. It is very annoying to wait for the creation of thumbnails of images about 500 in order to import only 50 of them, the visualization of this subset, and then throw away them so that the next 50 images can be imported. With a laptop computer or even an Android tablet I can do that in a few seconds, but with an IOS based device it takes forever to just see the images.

  I could not find any application that is capable of providing a simple workflow for preview images. There are some applications of cloud based for this purpose, but they are completely useless if you are on a vacation without any internet access trip.

  I read that older versions of IOS has provided an API to access images on a USB memory and there were about 150 apps using this API. But for some reason any (business?) Apple dropped of this API and launched all of these apps useful the App Store. Is there any other app available for the iPad or Android tablet is better suited for my desired use case?

  Thank you.

  Is there any other app available for the iPad

  
  

  I have collected this information from my readings of these discussions and read the web site of the manufacture. You will need to evaluate these comments to your situation.  I'm only sure any point 2 work with a camera.
  

  
  

  Yes. Airtash allows you to look at the data with a web browser.  Maybe it will show you the images too.
  

  
  

  - 1 - App Photofast is still in the app store.
  

  
  

  PhotoFast Drive IFlash
  This is a beautiful map.  You can move data back and forth!  Be sure to get the real thing.
  http://www.PhotoFast.com

  Review:
  http://www.Macworld.com/article/2036911/review-i-FlashDrive-HD-a-flash-drive-for - iPad-iPhone-and - laptops.html

  Here is the ios app:
  https://iTunes.Apple.com/us/app/i-FlashDrive-HD/id525386291?Mt=8

  Finally, there is a cheap imitation product that does not develop their own software and the software of PhotoFast pests.  Maybe people in using the imitation product are complaining.

  -2-hourly there are maps Wifi camera.

  Series FlashAir™ II Wireless SD Card

  -Sharing of photos and videos wireless

  -Capacity 16 GB

  -Takes to support simultaneous access of up to 7 devices.

  -3-hourly Airstash

  "Easily access, transfer and disseminate your AirStash® files - flash drive wireless pocket for iPad, iPhone and iPod touch! This application requires a device AirStash in order to work.  View, import & export photos, wireless, videos, music, and podcasts and view documents stored on your AirStash. AirStash + is the best alternative to the built-in web interface, adding features only available with a native application. »

  http://www.airstash.com/

• DSLR-A380 will not take photo and resets all settings

  My DSLR-A380 has had this problem under and turned off for a while now, but now it seems finally kaput. The camera turns on good and works as normal, except that the pictures will not save. When the trigger is depressed, it looks like he took the picture, the FVO screen goes black as if previewing the image loading, but then it resets and there is no saved photo. I had several people try to take photos and in different scenes/light, and it's the same problem. For a while, this seemed to happen randomly whenever I turned on the device. Sometimes it would work. Sometimes not. Now, it seems to be permanent. I tried to change all of the possible settings, but the given parameters to zero when I take a picture, including the aperture, shutter speed and ISO. The same problem occurs with Auto, manual or any other scene/priority setting.

  Battery is fully charged. Memory card room, is released and inserted correctly. The only reason I can think is that I dropped the camera on the concrete on a year and a half. He fell from lens face down. But I use the camera since then. It's only this week that it is dead.

  The camera needs to be repaired or replaced? I wouldn't replace the camera if there is a small patch.

  Strange things happen when the rechargeable batteries are aging. The fact to keep settings to reset is the most significant symptom, and that being the case, I don't think that there is more need to do a "hard reset." In fact, he wouldn't have enough 'juice' to format a new card.

• I have a Sony DSLR-A300 and I can't get an external flash to work on the shoe mount.

  My problem started when I realized that I had a seated old flash Achiever TZ250 around that I used to use on my old film camera Ricoh KR-5 DSLR. Obviously, the mount was different, so I bought a hot shoe adapter, but the flash does not fire. I thought that even if he was still working very well on the old SLR, that he was probably too old an era Flash to work on the new system of claw so I ordered TT520 Speedlite Flash online that I thought would be more consistent on the claw adapter. As soon as it arrived I unpacked and tried, but to my great disappointment I do nothing that can make the fire upwards. It tests fine, but it doesn't fire at all. Is there something I don't? Is it something with this camera I'm missing? Help, please.

  Kind regards

  Andrew

  Amanda, that I had a look that link and not found very relevant because it is not related to my model. I got from a claw of replacement adapter and I still can't get the flash fires. It's as if there is no power going to the Mount of the brand at all. The camera would be defective?

• Canon EOS Rebel DSLR t5 Record Time

  I found several sites Web says that the device must record up to 30 minutes of video footage before cutting. I also found that it depends on the memory card.

  In my camera, I have a 32 GB card, but my camera record of 11-12 minutes (time weird I know, but I have timed to make sure that... He usually cuts around 11.54 or 11.58). I was wondering if there was a way for me to get my camera to record the appropriate amount of time. The memory card is empty, no photos or videos.

  Any help is appritiated.

  Oh... is also questionable. Does anyone know if this particular model can autofocus WHILE shooting video (hold something up to the camera and the lens focuses on this point, then when you delete the item it focuses on you), and is there a way to make the background of blurry video, once more, during the filming?

  Thank you once again.  

  A single video clip would be limited by three things:

  (1) the card is formatted with FAT32 file system so that it can be widely read by any PC, Mac, Linux, computer etc.  But this file system has a size limit of 4 GB.  No single file cannot be larger than that.  You would stop and start a new recording so that it records to a second file.

  (2) if the card is 4 GB of free space on it... It stops as soon as possible (of course).

  (3) even if you set a very low video resolution so that she will not fill 4 GB in 30 minutes, it stops always at 30 minutes.  This is because in some countries, 'video' cameras are charged at a different rate from that of the photographic cameras.  By an international treaty, cameras are allowed to record video clips... and will not be tariffed as of the cameras 'video' as long as these clips may not exceed 30 minutes.  It is the purpose of the CAP of 30 minutes.

  Autofocus:

  Regarding the autofocus during video... the 70 D (and I think that now the 7 d II) have special technology on the sensor that allows the continuous autofocus while shooting video.  This feature is available in some Canon models that have "Dual Pixel CMOS AF".

  For other cameras, the sensor must use a different method of focus and it's some "guess".  It's "contrast AF detection.  Imagine taking a picture of a code bar... white background with strong black stripes.  In theory, so focused with precision, each pixel should be 'black' or 'white '.  And on the edge of a stripe, you should have a 'black' pixel adjacent to a 'white' pixel (this is a difference of extremely high contrast between adjacent pixels).  Now imagine you deliberately focus the camera.   You now have a pixel 'black', followed by several pixels that are progressively more light and lighter shades of gray... until you arrive finally at the pixel 'white '.  It's a "low contrast" difference between adjacent pixels, and it is low because the image is blurry.

  This means that if you can maximize the difference in contrast between adjacent pixels in some areas of the framework, you nailed focus.

  The "problem" with this system, it's that if it's blurred, he has no idea what to do to improve the development.  He can try mobile focus outward, re - sample the image and see if things improved.  Otherwise, it can run the focus inward and try again.  Once it is on the direction in which is better, it can start then refine the focus until he nails finally update the point.   But this system causes what is called "hunting at home" where you see visually the camera tries to focus while you record video - not good.

  Pro videographers determine before their major focus.  For example if they want to go to the theme 1 theme 2 in a scene, imagine putting a piece of tape around the ring with a felt market and development to mark the position of development for question 1 and another brand for about 2.  When THEY move the focus, they go directly between positions and no one watches the video sees everything "hunt."

  To avoid the 'hunting', the camera does not have auto-focus during video recording continuously.  You can press the button in focus on the back (it's usually the asterisk (*) key but I do not have a T5) and this will require the camera to auto-focus at this time (but you'll see this.)

  If you need real continuous AF during video then you would like to use a real camcorder OR you want a model that supports the feature as D 70.

  Do blurred backgrounds:

  This is determined by the "depth of field" which is derived from a combination of (1) the focal length of the lens, (2) the current aperture setting, (3) the distance between the subject and (4) the physical size of the sensor of the camera.

  (1) the longer focal length will reduce the total depth of the field.  For example, a 200mm lens will have a depth of field than a 20mm lens.  This means that longer lenses can generate a greater amount of background blur as wide lenses (and do not generate very large lenses almost no blur either.)

  (2) using the values low f-stop (the aperture value) creates a narrow depth of field.  f stops such as f/2.8, f/2, f/1.4 work well... high f-stops as f/11, f/16, f/22 generate very large depth of field, which means that they do not have much that would be blurry or off discussion.

  (3) the depth of field is naturally broader if the distance between the subject is far away.  Close subjects get very shallow depth of field.  In other words, if you focus on a subject that is actually very close... While the background is very far away, "narrow" depth of field on your narrow topic will mean that the background is well outside the update and will be very blurred.

  (4) finally (and this isn't anything you can change), the size of the sensor of the effects on the technical level also the depth of field.  Have your camera, a sensor of APS - C size, is big enough and will have no problem producing the blur you want... given the right report low-f / d and long focal length.  Only, I mention this because the smaller sensors (for example those on point & shoot cameras or camera-phones) must have their crop factor multiplied by the ratio f / d to determine a ratio f / d effective.  When she the crop factor is huge (very small sensors), this means that, even with a 'real' focal extremely low, the report f / d 'effective' is so high that the camera cannot generate the background blur.  Don't worry-I only speak because one of the reasons people like the look of DSLR images is due to this background blur this point & devices and phones cannot generate and that they are unable to generate the effect is because their sensors are too small.

  When you put all this together, you want to:

  (a) a long focal length (e.g. 85mm... ... of 100 mm or greater) with (b) a low f-ratio / d (for example f/2.8 or less... a telephoto lens like a 55-250 mm f/3.5-5.6 reached f/5.6 as this is the lowest possible report f / d when it is simply of to halfway across the range.)  f/5.6 is very low so you won't get a background blur hard.)  And (c) you'd want your subject to be located close to the camera and you would be wan further background.  You do not see what effect (or certainly not a lot of it) If you put your right subject against a background such as a brick wall... Pull the topics forward and in the background.

  The "quality" of the blur (not only the force) is described as its "bokeh".  Some lenses produce a quality much more beautiful than the others.  Multiple aperture blades is an important factor, as well as the way "rounded up" the aperture of the lens is due to the shape of the blades.  But the final appearance so influence other optical qualities.  Usually more expensive than glass... more look.