EOS M - shot distance

Similar Questions

• Flash Canon 600 EX - Speedite RT - flash using testfire erratic power

  Hello

  For a photography assignment, I had to use an off-camera flash (using the testfire) to capture the different poses of a subject during a long exposure.

  However, by pressing the button testfire produced variable results:

  1. the subject was reasonably informed.

  2. the power of the Flash was weak, leading to a very underexposed subject

  3. the test button would not fire at all.

  Now, the obvious cause of this erratic behavior would be batteries to be replaced. However battery replacement (using brand batteries good long life) does not solve the problem.

  If someone else has countered this problem and if so, is there a solution?

  Kind regards

  W, which has no such assignment

  When you trigger the test button, the amount of energy it will draw depend on the mode and the settings of the flash.

  Mode you are using (manual or E - TTL) and if manual, what power level you have set (for example 1/1 = full, but there is also a 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc.)

  If give you him a burst of full power in manual mode, you have to wait for the flash to recycle the capacitors before it is ready to fire again.  The capacitors are a bit like rechargeable batteries except for the rate at which you can drain a battery is somewhat limited and a capacitor can pour out his incredibly fast energy.  How flash actually works is to have the batteries to recharge the capacitors until it has enough fire power, and then the power of the flash capacitors (because they can send a power tip to the strobe light).

  Most people tend to use E-TTL/E-TTL II mode - or - they use it in manual mode (M).  But there are other modes.

  If you want to manually control the flash for your situation, then press the "Mode" button repeatedly until you see the "M", displayed in the upper left corner of the LCD screen (now you are in "Manual" mode and the flash will always fire at the same power level in E - TTL mode, it will try to automatically detect the amount of energy uses and many things can give you varying results because frankly) You asked the flash to automatically detect and vary the power level).

  Manual mode is only half the fun... now press the soft key under the LCD panel around the "+/-" and allows you to control the power level.  By default it will pull at full power (1/1).  But you can now turn the wheel to reduce the power level (and you probably want to reduce the power level because 1/1 is a lot of power.)   For example... maybe 1/8 power would be more reasonable... or maybe 1/4 power.

  But the other reason to use the manual mode is once you set the power level, it will ALWAYS trigger with the same amount of power (until you change.)

  Remember that when you use the manual flash, flash has a 'falling' effect that causes the light seems less intense if the flash is farther or closer to the object.  This is what we call the 'inverse rule of the square law' and it's a law of Physics (not do around him - sorry.)  This means that if you want your subject to get uniform illumination so not only you must use the "manual" mode and set it to a specific for every time... power level but the flash itself must be at the same distance from the subject (if the subject moves... then you need to Flash for the maintenance of this uniform for each shot distance.)

• Shooting distance shot always twice in Eos Utility?

  Hello

  After I upgraded my computer and reinstalled Eos Utility for use with my Canon EOS 7 d (mark I), Eos Utility now * always * shoots twice when I take pictures of the computer (remote shooting).  No idea why this is so? I disabled gross and the two photos are stored on the PC in their Jpeg format. I do hundreds of stems from a photostand and it's annoying to wait for the double shoots, but also to remove every second frame of the computer later. I hope someone has the same experience and can provide a solution.

  Well, it seems not be AEB, auto exposure bracketing, which is only available in creative modes.  AEB is available only in creative modes and AEB taking 3 images, not two.  But, make sure that it is not activated, in any case.

  You seem to have the latest version of the software in your computer.  Make sure you have the latest firmware of the camera.  If all else fails, check your manual and reset the camera to factory settings.

• Indoor action shots w / EOS Rebel T3

  The EOS Rebel T3 will be photos inside action decent as a dog of the trial where the dogs are running and go more high jumps?

  Frost action requires a fast shutter speed. A fast shutter speed does not allow light ambient a lot of time to cook an exhibition on the sensor. There is usually not enough light inside to work with a fast shutter speed, then one of the two measures of compensation should be used: 1) use an aperture of the lens wide angle (opening) or 2.) increase the ISO sensitivity.

  1.). solution of opening is not possible with the basic kit lenses. You want something like an 85mm f/1.8 or a 70-200 mm f/2.8, which allow more than 4 or more than 2 times lighter (respectively) to the camera from a kit lens.
  2). a crop sensor camera will look worse at ISO high equivalent that a full camera frame. I don't think you want exceed 800 ISO on the rebels. You would probably get the same image quality on a FF 6 d 2 stops at ISO high (about 3200).

  Between 2 stops, you win with a goal of 1.8 and 2 stops more would gain in image quality high ISO on a full frame sensor, you might receive something like 16 x more light to work than what a rebel and kit lens allow. Divided between increasing the shutter speed or by decreasing the noise digital is a big difference.

  The 85mm or Canon 100 mm similar lenses are only about $325 or $375 for sale. It's an inexpensive way to make a big difference immediately, and both will be installed also on a camera full frame if you come one day.

  Good luck!

• I took some pictures on my Canon EOS 7 d Mark ii yesterday, shooting in RAW. I shot in RAW before and have always been able to open. This time I can not open the RAW files in photoshop. An error message tells me to go to help > updates, yet when I try

  What should I do?

  Hi Alex,

  Could you let me know the version of Photoshop installed on your computer?

  Also, please check the version of the Camera Raw plug-in in Photoshop.

  If you have PS CS6/PS CC, so please install Camera Raw from the following link once: Camera Raw of Adobe Photoshop CC and CS6 Installer

  Kind regards

  Tanuj

• shot with Canon EOS 5DsR in LR 6, captive of the disorders by:

  Camera connects a cut continousliy

  Thanks for the help!

  Hi martinm,

  Could check you it please link below and follow the steps mentioned in this way:

  https://helpx.Adobe.com/Lightroom/KB/troubleshoot-tethered-capture-Lightroom-4.html

  Please let us know if it helps.

  Concerning

  Sarika

• Body of L ' goal and EOS Rebel T3i

  I asked a lot of questions here, haha.
  But I'm here with another question. So, I did a little research on the net about the use of the ' goal with a t3i and quite a few people say that they work well together? So objective L are not recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
  I recently bought the T3i and I want just a good lens. Preference for landscape photos. I'm also a few sports, low light and portrait photos.
  Suggestions for the landscape and all around the lens of photography would be great ():

  For landscape photography people often want to use a lens wide angle. Not always, there is no rule that says you can't use anything else. I say "it's usually the first thing that comes to mind

  One of the best wide angles that you get to use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an 'L' but it doesn't matter.

  I suspect that what you have said about the use of an L series lens is due to the factor of cropping of your device photo, as has been suggested by several other responses. L - series will work fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are models 'full frame', by definition. Therefore, none of the L will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So, when people hear 'landscape', they suggest something else that a L-series.

  You have four different purposes: landscape, sport, low light and portrait. The whole point of a DSLR as your T3i is to be able to Exchange lenses, to be able to adjust the camera for use in different situations. So I would say not to try to do it with a lens, but to look more lenses (some of which are Ls), which should ultimately give you better results. For example...

  Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.

  Sport: 70-200/4, 70-200 / 4L, 70-200/2.8, 70-200 / 2.8 L IS II, 100-400 L IS, 300/4 L IS.

  Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, IS 35/2, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (Frank): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.

  Portrait (studio): EF - S 15-85 IS, the EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  Portrait (environment): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.

  Versatile lens 'walk-around': EF-S 15-85 is... or, according to what the other lenses you get, EF - S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70 / 4L IS, 24-70 / 2.8 L II.

  There are many different ways to set up a lens kit. For example, maybe you just like a wide point of view than the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead, you can choose the lens EF-S 15-85 mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraits.

  A 'minimum' kit I often hang out with a camera of harvest is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w / 1. 4 X teleconverter and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.

  When I'm shooting, what I do for the most part with crop sensor cameras, I usually wear: 10-22 mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are the IS 70-200/2.8 and 300/4 IS. (In some cases I use also 70 - 200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS).

  For the portrait with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.

  Your camera can use all the EF-S and EF, including all of the L-series lenses. But just because a lens will fit and work does not mean it is the best choice for your application. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be useless... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... but not really give you the best performance, maybe even less. For example, a 16-35 / 2.8 L II is a wonderful goal on a FF camera, but it makes little sense to buy for use on a device of harvest. For less money, you can either get a lens that is really wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers a little wider range of focal lengths and IS (EF-S 17 - 55 / 2.8 IS) has.

  Depth of field in fact is not directly conducted by sizes of sensors of different cameras. What changes in depth of field are: focal length, Aperture and the distance about the goal. If you are looking for the low depth of field (blur a background for a portrait, for example), it takes a large aperture and a longer lens... and more you are close to the material the more shallow depth of field will be. If, however, you want lots of depth of field (for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length... and more you are from the individual (within reasonable limits), will be the deepest depth of field.

  Where full-frame sensor vs cultures comes into force now is that for the same subject, framing with a crop sensor, that we need to stand further away with a given focal length, or if the same shooting distance will use a shorter focal length. In both cases, the result is 'less' depth of field, but it is an indirect result of different sensor size.

  Have fun shopping and learning about your new camera!

  ***********
  Alan Myers

  San Jose, California, USA.
  «Market softly and carry a great lens.»
  MATERIAL: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
  FLICKR & REPROGRAPHY

• I can trigger a flash remotely from the EOS Utility?

  Hello. I am a total newbie, so forgive me if my question is very basic or confused.

  I just bought a Rebel T5i (literally, my first ever buy SLR) and have been using the EOS utility to be able to "live view" on my desktop screen. It seems to work pretty well.

  However, I am interested with the addition of a flash remotely as a Speedlite flash, to be placed between the subject and background. Will be a remote flash correctly from live view EOS Utility work? Should it be a Speedlite flash, or can it be a third flash?

  I'm not too considered with flash quality as much as I just want to be able to take pictures with the EOS Utility live view, with the remote flash fires to light a backdrop behind the subject.

  Thank you!

  As Ernie points out... the computer simply tells the camera when taking the shot.  If the camera has a flash, then the camera fires the flash when he takes this one.

  But your question is loaded with some nuances and it is not just a direct response.

  A Canon T5i has the ability to fire distance a Canon speedlite if three conditions are met:

  (1) the flash must support E - TTL

  (2) the flash must support E - TTL mode 'slave' (and that the mode must be enabled - it will not be enabled by default.)

  (3) flash must be direct "corridor" between the camera and remotely.

  The camera itself needs to be said that it is in a mode where the flash pop up on the device will work as a 'master' to trigger a remote flash.

  But you mentioned that you wanted to put this flash to distance between a subject and the context - which implies that 'line of sight' is not possible.  Who calls other WIRING.

  You can learn a lot about flash systems Canon E - TTL of the "Manual of the Speedlighter" (by Syl Arena), but this book has not been updated (as far as I know) to include systems flash triggered by Canon's new radio.

  To do this with the Canon gear, you want a transmitter of radio ST-E3-RT (which amounts to the hoof as a flash camera) and then use a flash Canon Speedlight with a suffix 'RT' such as flash 600EX-RT (flash light) or the new 430EX III - RT.  All products of "RT" communicate by radio and do not require a line of sight direct.

  It is also possible to do with budget gear..., you can get a pair of transceivers trigger... we're going on the device and the other goes hand in hand with the remote flash.  These radio triggers are not "E - TTL", which means that the camera and the flash will not be able to communicate and negotiate the amount of energy must be used for shooting "on the fly" (as can an E - TTL flash).  This means that you will need to manually set the power level you want to use.

  Having to use manual flash should not be terribly difficult to learn.  The flash and the camera usually automatically set your power level, as it would for E - TTL flashes.  You control the light, by adjusting the power level of the flash (manually) or by moving the flash closer or away from your topic (or using the flash light modifiers) more, or by adjusting the opening of the camera.

  This works well in a situation of type 'studio', where you can control the power settings.  But for photography of the 'event' where you have to shoot on-the-fly and you "-over" If rush you the shot, you have to learn the flash behavior before the shooting. For me, it means creating a table which indicates (for any given on the flash power level) f-stop, should I use any flash-to-subject distance given.  I used usually non-zooms at this time, but I knew that, for example, a shot of 'dance' a couple of size - up to (what we call a "half coup" because we have only half upper body of our subject) was f/16 at ISO 100.  A length of 3/4 shot (essentially from the knees upwards) was f/11.  A shot of 'length' was f/8, and a group shot can be f/5.6 or even f/4.

  It necessary to the good days past tests and completing such a table.  You won't have the time to refer to such a table, but I mentally memorized by distance because the subject framing was a good consistent indicator of distance.  (it is a bit more complicated with zooms because you can change the subject framing without changing the distance).   But in the end, you find yourself in a situation where you go back to a subject at a demonstration, the frame of the shooting, set the aperture value and capture the image and know that you nailed the exposure even if the whole system is manual.

  There are a lot of tutorials on the use of the manual of flash and inexpensive triggers to the Strobist blog (strobist.blogspot.com).

  I use the Canon system.  I use the Canon ST-E3-RT trigger a few flashes 600EX-RT.  The system is rock solid... it always works.

• Cannot take a picture of screen shot now?

  Since the iOS 10 update, it seems that I can take is no longer an image of what is on my screen. I'm used to be able to do it by pressing the power button and then pressing the home button to make the catch. This is particularly useful in holding a long distance tour, enlarge the shot, and then take a picture of this zoomed image.

  Any other way to capture even a screenshot?

  Thank you

  Rob

  kissfan1978 wrote:

  Since the iOS 10 update, it seems that I can take is no longer an image of what is on my screen. I'm used to be able to do it by pressing the power button and then pressing the home button to make the catch. This is particularly useful in holding a long distance tour, enlarge the shot, and then take a picture of this zoomed image.

  Any other way to capture even a screenshot?

  Thank you

  Rob

  NO question here, can still do with my mini2 5s, 6 s, and ipad

• Camera focusing distance

  Is anything going to be done on the focus distance of the camera? Since the release and after a group of camera development, nothing was done or improved on the minimum focusing distance. The camera can not really take any macro shots because focus distance is too much, that you are not able to get a lot less than 2 ' macro shots have tend be closer with no less than 6-9inchs to lock focus. even the bike g 3rd gen and the original could do better with macro conditions X thanXthe play. With 21megapixels aboard, macros would win a lot because of the amount of detail it can possibly hold.

  I must say, I have no problem with the macro shots on my Moto X play. I agree with nikolov47 - it is absolutely perfect at 8-10cm, it focuses very quickly. I just test it now, in a room artificially lit (so lighting is not so good either) - focuses on the text at a distance of 9cm (just checked at best with a ruler!).

• Can I wireless use a 430 EX II as a slave with the flash integrated the T3i EOS?

  I have a Rebel EOS T3i.  According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can launch a remote speedlite wireless from the camera.  I get an error message cannot find the speedlite even if I set up my 430 EX II speedlite according to its instructions manual, pp25 ff.  Thanks for your help

  Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can trigger remotely the speedlite.

  It of a little complicated and can be confusing.

  First... set the 430EX II in the correct mode.  Press and HOLD the 'Zoom' button for 2 seconds approximately.  This active a menu that allows you to put the flash is in a mode single-fash vs remote "slave".  Semicircular keys to switch to read 'slave '.  Press 'set' (in the middle of these buttons of a semicircle shape.)  I happen to have my 430EX II practical, but it must default to the slave 'A' channel '1 '.

  Now for the camera.

  On your camera menu, tab to the left (which we'll call 'Caméra Red #1' to distinguish it from other tabs) has 'Flash' control as the last option on this screen.  Either way for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is marked 'Flash Control'.  For devices that do NOT have the built-in pop-up flash, this menu is called "Flash speedlite external control.

  In this submenu (Flash control), make sure "Flash of fire" (the top option) is set to 'Enable' or 'CustWireless' - should NOT be set to 'disable' or nothing will work.

  You will see a menu choice for "external Flash func. parameter' (and also 'External flash C.Fn setting'.)  IGNORE THESE!  This is for the hot flashes that are in the camera hotshoe and do NOT control the remote flashes wireless.  This is probably where you were getting confused.

  Then go to "built-in flash func. the parameters' where, paradoxically, you get to control how your device communicates with your flash REMOTE (Yes, I know that this is not the most intuitive place to put it.)  It turns out that it is your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicating with any flash slave remote.  The optical wireless actually uses visible light (many people assume that it is a communication infrared - me is understood - at the end of the day, I learned that was incorrect and it's actually the visible light of the flash itself.)  He quickly sends communication to remote control by pulse codes to tell flash what to do remotely.  All this happens until the image is exposed and you'd swear the only blinked once eyes flash... but it turns out that it is actually very busy away from the impulse to connect).

  In the "func flash built-in. menu of settings"there are a number of things that you must set.

  If you set the flash mode built in 'EasyWireless' it will be gray on many other parameters... basically the camera automatically decides what he wants to do.  I think that the only definition not gray is the channel number (which must match the channel number on your flash.  Channel numbers helps you can draw on events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and have no conflicts where they are triggering your flashes and vice versa.

  If you set the flash mode built in "CustWireless" it allows you to set other options.  CustWireless offers the most control.  In the end, it's probably mode you will use the most, once you get used to distance Speedlites.

  In CustWireless, the menu option 'Wireless' Func mode. becomes available.  This option allows you to decide if you want (I take these out of use for simplicity to explain):

  (a) speedlites both internal and external to the fire as a single group (icon external flash, a PLUS sign (+) and the camera icon)

  (b) the Speedlite flashes inside and outside to the fire, but allowing you to control the power RATIO (icon external flash, a COLON symbol ( and the camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.))

  (c) only external Speedlites (only the external flash icon is on this option - no icon on the device).

  I want to mention something about this external option only because it confuses most people initially.  The device communicates with the slave through the on-camera flash.  The flash on the camera quickly pulses to send the instructions for flashes to distance.  This means that to use the slave flashes, the on-camera flash must be addressed (in jumps - upward position).  If you ask for external flash only (without camera) the flash on the camera flashed only instructions BEFORE the opening of the shutter of the camera to take the exhibition.  When I started to learn from external Speedlite flashes, I saw the light on-camera flash and thought that my settings were ignored.  Do not worry... When you archive your images, you will see that there is no light provided by the on-camera flash during exposure... all this flashing comes before the opening of the shutter.   Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes triggered only once... but in reality they are actually much of 'talk' before taking the picture, but this happens at an incredible speed.

  And one last comment... because the camera communicates through Optics (visible light) flash to talk to remote controls, it is important from the bottom of the body of your 430EX II can 'see' the flash on the camera.  In small parts, that no matter where the lower part of the body showed up... you notice the impulses of the light of the on-camera flash.  But in large halls or outside the lower body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) will have any reflection of the walls, etc.  In this case, simply turn the lower part of the body of the 430EX II so that it faces the on-camera flash.  You can then rotate the head of the 430EX II at the point where you need.  The 430EX II will trigger even in daylight, as long as it can 'see' as the on-camera flash.

  Here is a video that can help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A

• Looking better all the objective for an EOS 20 d lenses

  Hello world.  I've had my EOS 20 d for over 10 years now.  I've never been satisfied with the 18-55mm EFS lens it comes with.  Just don't have enough zoom or wide angle.  I don't do anything professional.  Simply take a lot of family and outdoor / nature shots.  I would like to be able to take pictures of quality portrait and a picture of the grand canyon and turn out great.  I would like to be able to take just a lens with me on vacation.

  I was look at the EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens.  He seems to have everything.  Will there be any multi-purpose lens that I should look?

  Thank you

  Dallas

  "The STM 55-250 will be able to take pictures of nice wide angle too?

  It depends on your definition of wide angle. I think most would say no.  If you start thinking about "AOV" perspective, it will be easier to say.

  A 55mm lens on your 20 d has an AOV of 28 degrees (approximately).  It's not very wide?  Your 18mm lens has an AOV of 84 degrees.

  The specification AOV is easy to find because it is not in all the specifications of lenses. BTW, 250mm is about 6 degrees.

  Canon is supposed to be coming out with a Canon EF-S 18-300mm f/3.5-5.6 lens of STM IS.  I don't know if it's on sale again then you might want to check.  AOV will be 84 to 5 degrees (approximately) wide enough of Nice TV, is it not?  The more AOV is the largest angle.  The smaller the number, the TV is.

• SX 500 action shots

  need a good setting for action shots for my new sx500is all my sports shots are very unclear

  Shooting action & sports with a P & S can be a challenge, but the General rules are the same as for the DSLR, you will need to consult your manual to see the things you can take control to use the information already online here.

  http://forums.USA.Canon.com/T5/EOS/the-50D-has-a-sports-mode-what-is-the-same-mode-on-the-7d/m-p/152...

• Canon 5dm 3, EOS utility - remote live view - can't stop the automatic exposure.

  Canon 5dm 3. Addicted to the PC running view EOS utility - remote control - live. Utility EOS insists on auto exposure even if the camera is set to manual and ISO is NOT automatic.

  Hi mannfilm!

  Thanks for posting.

  I would like to ask a questions in order to get a better understanding of the issue and what can be the cause of this.

  1. When you look at distance window, the letter M appears indicating manual exposure is defined?
  2. What exposure values change?
  3. You have activated exposure Simulation?
  4. The resulting image appears different from the image you see in the window?

  If it is a time sensitive matter, additional support options are available to contact us.

• Need a camera that will take excellent shots of ROOM so I can sell them on eBay. Suggestions?

  Camera shots should show plan big detail on currencies of copper and silver.  In addition, the room must be far enough away from the camera to allow enough light in the room.  Can be a HS done SX510 or a HS SX50?  SX50 to $430 is more that I want to spend.  Help!

  Donnie, here are some examples (and if please exuse the bad lighting and color - balance they were thrown together quickly for demo purposes)

  Here are a couple of sterling pieces to show what is happening with the lens.

  This image was taken with a Canon 5 d IS of III using a Canon EF 100 mm f/2.8 L Macro USM lens.  The target was set to f/8 for this exhibition.

  f/8 would normally provide a decent depth of field... but look what is happening with this image:

  

  Note that the central area of the room on the right focus, but but the front and the rear edge are blurred... and this is at f/8 - keep that in mind.

  I wrapped a piece of tape around the ring on the lens.  I have worn to the front edge of the room closely and used a marker to mark this position.  I've then adjusted to the rear edge of the piece of far and who scored as well.

  Then I took a series of exhibitions of the brand front focus up to the mark of development back tweaking the lens very slightly between each exposure.   A total of 10 exhibitions have been taken.

  I then used the software stack of development (in this case, I used ability to 'Merge photos' of Photoshop) by merging pictures of 10, the result is this picture:

  

  Look closely and you will see the office near foreground and distant background are still unclear, but coins are sharp from front to back.  Actually I need more images.  This can be done very gently tweaking focus between each exosure or using a "rail"focus"(a track - like device that you put on a tripod and then mount the camera on the rail and move it toward the front of the camera, any backward or forward for an amount you can control for macro focus pictures with focus stacking).

  It's a lens 100mm macro on a full body frame (and frankly I could have been much closer with this goal), but with a body of cultures-APS - C frame (as any '' rebels '' or mid-range model) the EF-S 60 mm macro would have provided a very similar angle of view.

  The SX50 HS and SX510 seem to be good in the point minimum distances... so that they are able to achieve the desired results, but regardless of the camera, I suspect you will need to emphasis of stacking for good results (I used Photoshop, but there are many applications that can do including applications that are designed specifically for the update macro photo stacking.)

  These images are reduced for display on the web, but the originals are absolutely sharpness and you can look at every surface texture.