E530 thermal issues

Similar Questions

• Equium A60 overheating issues - thermal paste fix

  Hello

  Recently, I experienced the same problems of overheating seen by many others on this forum. I even found this forum searching for a fix for the problem.

  * This announcement should be used as a guide only - repairs are undertaken at your own risk *.

  Now, my laptop is sitting next to me, idling at about 50 degrees - which is a massive improvement on the 64 degrees it was yesterday!

  To resolve this problem, I used the method to blow all the dust from the orifice (covered many messages in this forum). However, I also dared to disassemble the laptop and give it a THOROUGH clean. It is a process long and complicated - but not beyond everyone. Firstly - I used this found here guide to disassemble the laptop - http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaA65/satA65_1.htm - be sure to keep * ALL * the dismantled parts!

  Once this done, you will find with the main card exposed. After that, I undid the screws that keep the TFT on the hinge and separated it from the chassis, while he was in two parts. Then, I removed gently the connector TFT from its place on the motherboard. There is a small screw, an additional wire to the TFT Ribbon to the chassis - I left it on, as I could not? t remove it! Then, I removed the Ribbon for the touchpad (carefully!) and carefully lifted the plastic all silver, away from the chassis part. Then I disconnected the power switch of the card mother - and completely taken off the plastic part.

  Now, the heat sink everything will be displayed. From there, it gets a little more complicated - and consists of removing your radiator and the processor. If you are not willing to do that, or just think you don? t want to tinker with the "inner workings" - have a good clean around the parts that are exposed and then replace all the parts you have subscribed. For people who have problems of overheating worse - the following steps worked for me very well.

  Presentations will be the whole radiator and fan. The silver on the metal heatsink screws are numbered - and I removed these sequentially. Then I unplugged the fan power cables and removed the screws at the right end of the fan. The heatsink should now clear the chassis lift, exposing the processor set. Then, I took the processor out of the chassis. You should now have a processor and a heatsink in front of you. The two should be a gray paste, gunky. This is known as the thermal paste and ensures a dispersion of heat from the chip on the radiator. On my parts, dough was propagated by the heat and on the sides of the chip - shifted far from where it was most needed. Now, I didn? t actually have a spare block when I took it apart last night - so I'm a plectrum guitar and smooth paste heatsink of heat and the chip on the surface of the chip. Once I covered the chip in a level amount of dough, I placed in the chassis and refitted the heatsink. Finally, I replaced everything what I had - and the powers of the laptop on the property.

  I realize that this might not work for everyone - I had nothing to do last night, and it was a ditch last try to improve the management of the heat of this laptop. Fortunately for me it worked. I am looking for a thermal paste today, so that I can make a good application of paste on the chip before that I re - assemble again.

  Of course, if you have a warranty on the laptop, it is not a good idea to open it up and execute this method. I recommend that people who have confidence in the performance of this procedure to try - it? s not dangerous - but you can mess up the inside of the laptop / your processor, if you're not careful.

  Good luck!

  Sam

  Hi Samuel

  First of all, I want to thank you for this very detailed and long ;) description.
  But as you say if the warranty is valid the user shouldn't? t open Notepad and do something. In this way the service guys should check. Then if people don't have any experience in this method they shouldn't? t do that, because it might be possible that something different is going dead.
  However, thanks again.

• E530 drivers & Windows Update - more issues related to recovery media.

  Hello

  I have a new E530 (one month) and hit some problems with it:

  (1) updates Windows are missing - he seems stuck on the updated three same than keep a failure.

  They are KB971033, KB2446710 & KB2478662

  And the error number is 80070BC9

  I found nothing on the web that helps.

  (2) I had an error with the driver of sound card on the machine and was repeatedly a message to reinstall the driver. I made an update of Lenovo and especially the updates succeeded, but the sound card, it does not reach an error number 0 x 401 (in the update of the windows driver).

  The update is Conexant CX20671 V. 8.54.42.0.

  I tried to uninstall the driver and then put it back, but seem to now be in a limbo of weird where Windows says there is no audio device installed in the status bar, but also in the Device Manager it is said that there is an audio on the Bus High Definition Audio device. That's the warning icon. If I click it it says it's a Conexant device with an updated driver V. 8.54.42.0. Pending the update of Lenovo said I have none installed driver Conexant and need to install V., 8.54.42.0.

  I completely uninstalled the drivers via Windows, restarted and reinstalled by using the update of Lenovo. He said he managed and wants a restart. After the restart I was back to the situation described above.

  (3) on the two above, I decided to restore the Windows partition. After you get a success message creating a recovery on a USB drive, I tried to start it. I get a boot error. I got some writable DVD and thought they would be more useful in recovery media. However when I try to create them, I get a message saying that I am allowed only a copy of windows and the application terminates.

  It seems that the easiest solution will be to solve number 3, I would create a working set of the recovery media and reinstalling windows. Is this possible?

  Thank you very much.

  Well, I think it's been sorted.

  I followed the instructions at SevenForums to make a patch to reinstall using the ISO downloaded from Dell.

  So far, he has been correct, although we have not (had) FDI appl (y) updates. But at least the sound is back and we are no longer updates pending.

• (Redirected) The motherboard - issue thermal ventilation upgrade Active

  Hello

  I think the upgrade from my old Area 51 (if I remember well that was the chassis of the Lunar shadow of 2010)

  I am concerned about the heat evacuation Active on the top of the base, if I put in a new generic motherboard, will be evacuated in the upper part of the chassis remains open? (they have a default open state?) I guess there is nothing to connect to on the new Board of Directors, unless she uses an internal USB

  Any advice is greatly appreciated on this

  Thank you in anticipation

  Andy

  Best of this post in the Alienware owners Club Forum, here:

  http://en.community.Dell.com/Owners-Club/Alienware/default.aspx

  Bev.

• G4 MDD power supply Issue

  My MDD was recently stop only two or three minutes after a cold start. The power led lights up, the gray screen with the Apple logo appears with the spinning wheel, but then the machine suddenly loses power as if the power cord was disconnected. These are the things I've already tried:

  1. Removed the PRAM Battery
  2. Disconnected all devices except the keyboard and the monitor
  3. Tried a different power cord

  Start in safe mode did not help. The fans are all running, the red LED lights on the logic board and disk drives seem to work. This could be a power supply issue or a problem with the motherboard and is it possible that I can definitely identify the problem without being able to start the G4? The startup time has been considering more when everything worked last week, would that be a clue? I've owned this machine for more than twelve years and it put to the test so I wonder if it's time to retire him.

  Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

  Hi, looks a lot like a problem of heat from the CPU, thermal paste is usually good for 5 years or more.

  It runs longer open door?

• SatPro A60 can hardly operate at 2.8 GHz since problem of thermal regulation

  Hey guys, a nightmare for A60, its CPU clock can hardly run at 2800 MHz, it is supposed, since 75 of the A60? Thermal regulation time is too easy to access.

  Using the processor RightMard and Mobilemeter clock utilities, I found the temprature entry A60 to thermal regulation 75? When this temperature is reached, cpu clock slow down up to 1500 MHz (you can't see it using the normal test program, because Throttling is like cheating... that is to say force CPU to stop for some time in order to avoid overheating), and when temperatures rise less than 70?, he will return to 2800 MHz. Another delay: the auto-off temperature is 85? for A60.

  Although the temperature which got the Mobilemeter is the sink, not the CPU core temperature, it seems that oshiba made this 75? Date limit too low (default time of Intel is probably about 90?). In addition, with evil designed sink heater, the temperature remained generally above 70-80? with room temperature 15? and only some word processing or navigation base and also with the machine almost free of dust. All this means that the laptop can hardly run at 2.8 GHz. You could never have this speed in any graphical game.

  The real clock must be test using RightMark clock, it allows to test if the CPU is forced to stop frequently due to thermal regulation. Everyone wants to do this experience can download these two free software of:
  RMC(177Kb):
  http://CPU.RightMark.org/download/rmclock_18_bin.rar
  MobileMeter(40Kb):
  http://www.geocities.co.jp/SiliconValley-Oakland/8259/release/0310/mm0310.zip

  with SuperPI, who can make as high CPU temperature as you want opening it serval times at the same time
  http://ftp15.ENET.com.CN:88/pub/system/sysanaly/SuperPi-8.zip

  Finally, my original idea to write about it here is not only to tell a truth, but also I want that people of Toshiba could do something on this issue, or do an updated bios updated to allow to off the thermal regulation, or make the deadline for her superior to only 75? ,
  as you have about bios satellite 1805 last updated:

  Version 2.10 24/09/2002
  A change has been made to allow only BIOS enable and disable the CPU limitation during the operation of Windows 98SE.

  Give the original CPU speed, because that's the only reason I and a few other people chose this machine.

  Hi Al

  Well, I put t know if you have experience in the technology of the laptop but heat is a known issue on all laptops. It s a fact that all the parts (Cpu, graphics card, etc.) in the unit produce a lot of heat and it s very difficult to cool these rooms because there is no place. You can't compare the computer laptop and desktop PC!

  In addition, to protect against overheating of the CPU has an internal temperature sensor. (You know that) If the temperature of computer s reaches a certain level, the cooling fan is turned on or processing speed is lowered. You can choose to control the temperature of the CPU by the setting of the fan first, then if necessary, reduce the speed of the CPU.
  Alternatively, by lowering the speed of the CPU first, then if necessary, turn the fan. You can use the element of the standard tab cooling method in Toshiba Power Saver.

  Here are the features:
  Maximum performance: Turn on fan first, and then if necessary decreases the speed of the CPU processing.
  Performance: Use a combination of fan and a decline in the processing speed of the CPU.
  Optimized battery: Lowers the speed of the CPU first, then if necessary turns on the fan.

  In addition if the temperature of the CPU reaches an unacceptable level with two parameters, the system stops automatically to avoid any damage.

  Hopefully this description can explain this problem.

  Best regards

• Equium A60: graphics issues and more

  Ive had so many probs with tis equium a60. It was overheating, stand by was not working and now the graffics were spoil! I rang this place recommended pcworld n they said try to format (large). anyway I restored it to factory settings while he was exactly as it was when I got it. stand is now working properly :) but it still is overheating (I mean really, it becomes it hot) and the graffics are always spoil.
  What happens is the screen freezes for a few seconds, then he goes the worst possible of display settings, so everything is massive and the colors are all wrong. and a pop up in windows as a encountered an error please reboot.
  This happens only at random times, I do not understand why ive formatted. I don't know if the card graffics itself is exhausted. any help or ideas appreciated. see you soon

  Hi Dave,.

  I think he should assume that your problems stem from overheating. It is very common for the dust and debris to form and block the passage of air through the CPU cooler. I suggest trying to remove such an accumulation or blowing into the heatsink (towards the cooling fans), or by sucking debris with a household vacuum. If all else fails, then you can remove the heat sink and the dust before replaceing it. Beware that this may invalidate your warranty.

  Normally a thermal trigger remove power if it detects the CPU heat too, but this does not mean that other problems cannot occur.

  If you still have problems with you appear after you have addressed the issue of overheating then please post again.

  HTH

• E530 xp driver

  Hi, I have a 3259BJ5 E530.

  I can't find the XP driver

  -graphics card: GT635m

  -sensor of fingerprint printer

  Should I install win7?

  ksp7518 wrote:

  Hi, I have a 3259BJ5 E530.

  I can't find the XP driver

  -graphics card: GT635m

  -sensor of fingerprint printer

  Should I install win7?

  Welcome to the Forum!

  Is not your machine come with (at least) 4 GB of RAM and Windows 7 Pro 64 bit preinstalled? Don't you have a Windows 7 Pro folder (certificate of authenticity) sticker on the back of your laptop?

  Although I'm a big fan of XP, I personally would like to re - install Windows 7 Pro 64 bit on such a machine. It would be fine and would allow you to avoid the issues of XP driver and software conflicts. You should already have a valid appeal record Windows 7 so it shouldn't cost anything except a few hours using any DVD of Windows 7 Pro 64 bit. Official Windows 7 download locations listed here or here.

  All drivers for Windows 7 64 essential are here. More specifically, here are your video driver Windows 7 64 and software for Windows 7 64 RPF.

  Let us know how you do.

• 1245dx D7 - reapply the thermal grease for CPU/GPU - GPU thermal pad

  The result is a hp pavilion dv7 1245dx having heating issues so disassabled to clean it and apply new thermal grease and notice that the video chip has a thermal pad instead of thermal grease. This is what it looks like.

  Guys/girls do you think it is reusable or do I need to replace it as well. If I need to replace it, what are my options? Difficult to find a pad thermal repalcement anywhere. A decent high CoolerMaster performace size heat for the CPU it's okay.

  Yes, it uses a thermal buffer, because the gap is too big to fill with dough. You can reuse the pad. Some people even make a solid metal shim in sheet copper or a hammered out penny and you can apply heat is dedicated to that.

• windows 8.1 w 700 battery issue

  After the update 8.1, several questions arose immediately.  Whenever the processor was running any type of task, (opening a program, searching the Web, looking for a file Explorer... etc) the mouse cursor woud lag considerably, to the point where the useless tablet.  I also noticed that when I set up the camera, image lag application terribly when I was moving the tablet.

  This morning, I started to understand what was the cause of this considerable deterioration with the sytem and the lag horrible with 8.1.   It turns out that when the Tablet is connected, no lags degradation system described above is deceased.  The camera works perfectly and it s no lag with the cursor of the mouse what-so-ever.  Yet when I unplug the device return to battery, degradation comes back as soon as I switch to the battery.

  What happens on Earth with the 8.1 and the system when it's on battery power?  8.1. can we really that much a hog processor that the tablet will become useless on battery?

  I had my W700 since January and have not had any problems with windows 8.0.

  It's amazing that a Tablet is unusable when on the battery using 8.1.  any help of acer wih on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

  What you need to do is simply select Performance or balance, because who wouldn't do anything for you. What is the cause of the slow down is the setting of the Mode of low power within these profiles. To resolve the problem of slower, you have to go to change Plan settings > change advanced power settings > Intel platform & thermal dynamic parameters > Low Power Mode and change to allow specific Application or disable.

• Bios E530 problem

  Hello! I use a lenovo thinkpad edge e530.

  I have a problem changing my BIOS settings after installing win8.1 and activation of bitlocker. I tried to reformat the partition, it's on, so I wiped it off with gparted and now all the settings in the bios are greyed out and I can't change anything. What can I do to be able to modify my BIOS?

  I also have linux installed on my computer if I could do something there.

  Note of the moderator; issue published; added system type

  Solved the problem.

  What I did to remove the hard drive, install in my office. There, I installed win8.1 again alongside my linux partition. After I put in my laptop and initialized in win8.1 where I have enabled bitlocker and then disabled. Now my bios are unlocked again.

• Aurora-R4 upgrade issues & troubleshooting

  Hello, Alien Techies!... I come to you, here, now, humiliated and who have need of the councils for the control box... Let me start by listing my "original specs' followed by 'changes' everything / ALL next to or after (directly below), because I think it may be relevant to my points and questions.  Please note that I started at the time of the purchase with a modified version and upgrade to my request, and they DO NOT take into account the standard.

  MATERIAL - Alienware Aurora-R4 (X 79 with chassis ALX); 3rd gen - Intel Quad Core i7-3820 3,60 GHz CPU (* overclocked @ 4.1 GHz, Quad Core, 10 MB Cache), Seagate 3TO HHD 7200 RPM, 16 GB of RAM (excluding max. 32 GB) - 16 GB Dual Quad Channel (4x4Go) * overclocked DDR3 @ 1600 MHz, nVidia / GeForce GTX 660 @ 1.5 GB - nVidia SLI - AMD Crossfire (power connectors: 2 6 2 8 pin pins / power Bus Port) (: 2 PCI X 16 slots / dual video card supports 300 watts per card & single card 600 Watt), Creative Sound Blaster PCIe-X-Fi, integrated Real Tek ALC892 Codex 2 burner (DVD Blu - Ray &), media card reader 19-in-1, Real Tek Integrated10/100/1000 GB wireless network card MS3871 Bluetooth Wireless Combo WLAN802.11b/g/n, Power Supply is 875 Watt Muliti-GPU power supply approved and Micro-ATX card mother 07JNH0.  SOFTWARE - BIOS A06, Windows 7 Home Premium.

  MISE_A_NIVEAU / REPLACEMENTS - 1.) SSHD 4TB 5900 RPM w / 64 MB of Cache Memory & 8 GB NAND Flash, 2) Windows 10 home edition, 3.) BIOS A11... ONLY!  With the exception of a few small updates driver, I'm sure.
  

  My problems to surface around Thanksgiving, Christmas, he's 7 months after 3 years I had bought my Alienware.  It was a result of my first major update from Windows 7 to Windows 10.  My PC don't recognize even 10 Windows!  Instead, it / PC been force-fed Windows 10 conversion therapy through Remote Support assistance technique Microsoft.  Shortly after, in the week, was my first MOMENT BIG FREEZE, when out of nowhere, while surfing the internet entered my systems.  I could not even Ctrl + Alt + Delete for task register, fans revved up, and I couldn't do anything else the latest kind of hard reboot - disconnect the PC from socket... It would not happen again for another month or several weeks. And when my PC finally woke from its slumber of drunk and lazy, very, very slowly restarting black screen, try it is harder to take Windows or reject.  It took more time, once the main screen is running, and once he finds Windows.  My processors working OT, until finally about 15 minutes after its start in resting peacefully, the demon banished.  I could play, no problem, but when I was on a browser on the internet, and / or when I arrived 'Automatic updates of Windows' chaos, the demon returns, and the Big Freeze returned.  I know all this only in hindsight, looking back, 20-20. 

  It would increase only slowly, until the moment where 6 months that I have upgraded to Windows 10, she felt more fits, between half an hour sometimes a few hours at the end.  She's trying to restart, but seems completely Catatonic and unable to meet black screen alien find GOLD Windows and about every other day to once or twice a day.

  I replace my hard drive, after he died, and he had pretty much cloned it from the backup of the my new SSHD, listed above.  It's now my second update in less than 2 weeks, in the second week of June 2016 now.  My third update level, all now a few weeks apart, with BIOS A06 to A11.  I don't know why or how that is never presented as lacking a upgrade.  I did a lot of checking, cleaning, defraging and even added a new Trend Micro Security to protect my investment.  AND I STILL see the hiccups like those from my old hard drive.  Nobody seems to be willing or able to diagnose this problem as a problem that pre-existed before my new hybrid Solid State drive... A few days ago, I received an error message through troubleshooting with Trend Micro and do an F5 accumulated prior to departure.  * The error Code 2000 - 8314 and Violation 119539 "- something like CPU error msg thermal 100 c 100 c thermistor PC exceeds the thermal limit out of reach."  I do not know.  Is this one of my chipset, processor or fan around my motherboard?
  

  I want to apologize for this drag all this, but I believe that the devil is in the details.  So, thank you for your patience.  And I appreciate any input at all in my ongoing troubleshooting.  I spent enough money in the last two weeks.  And my own brain is pretty fried at this stage of troubleshooting by internet.

  Now, A QUICK or a possible upgrade issues that I hope might actually alleviate part of the symptoms or even problems entirely... I would like to top off my 32 GB maximum RAM with of 4x8Go.  It seems that thought that there are very specific for my Alienware sticks, and I have to stay with this margin does not overwork anything.  I also want to do it myself, as I did with my other Dell Dimension 4700 PC.  I just need directions to wait for him, because I have other fires to put again AND / OR maps specific 8 GB RAM can I work with my R4 Aurora?

  "Play hard and go home!"
  

  REMOVE ALL OverClocks (I suggest permanently if you want a stable system that lasts a long time)

  Run Diags ePSA. Repair everything falls down before continuing.

  http://en.community.Dell.com/Owners-Club/Alienware/f/3746/t/19530277

  Make sure that the machine is not overheating and SMART is good.

  Use usb.iso to try a clean install of Windows 10/64-bit (for one SSD/HDD Virgin) to rebuild from scratch. Perhaps the migration of drivers and legacy applications during the installation of the upgrade was not 100% or you have an incompatible application in Win10 or the installed driver.

  http://en.community.Dell.com/Owners-Club/Alienware/f/3746/t/19679918

  A real SSD is faster than any hybrid SSHD. I love real 240 GB SSD as boot C: and install only Windows and main applications on this subject.

  16 GB Dual Channel Quad (4x4Go) is very well - don't mess with it.

  Never used Trend-Micro-Security. On Win10/64, I use Windows Defender & firewall.

  Maybe try this:
  REMOVE ALL OverClocks
  Disconnect existing SSHD (becomes a backup).
  Install SSD 240 GB (or 100% perfect player)
  Clean-install Win10-64 to blank disc
  Mainly use Microsoft only provided drivers from Windows Update
  Install only Win10 updated applications, use Windows Defender & firewall free for now
  See how it works.

• THE THERMAL SHUTDOWN, HOW CAN I TURN IT OFF

  Hi guys, I gave my old laptop to someone to correct certain defects in the system. When I got the laptop I have while it was fixed, but it had disabled some of the pc as network settings and much more. My real promblem is that my laptop is a thermal cut-out which is really annoying, what I do is I opened the laptop and it gives a message that are not installed, ATI drivers however I ignore it, but when I use the laptop it of a thermal cutout, is there a way to disable or remove this option

  Hello

  1. check that the fan is running.

  2 check the vents for hair, dust, etc. and do not use a laptop when it is based on material surfaces: bedspreads, blankets, etc.

  If the problem persists, because it of a laptop, bring it to a local computer and reliable repair shop and get them to open and clean the dust inside...

  Here is an interesting discussion about the reasons for your problem:

  http://PC-trickandsolution.blogspot.com.au/2011/07/fix-laptop-overheating-shutdown-problem.html

  NB: > however 9 out of 10 cases of overheating are caused by obstruction of the air flow.

  _______________________________________________________

  Safe operating temperatures of criticism:

  "What should be the temperature of my processor in the computer?

  http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm

  See you soon.

• Thermal characteristics on chassis error

  Hi Memebers

  I received the following error message; Thermal characteristics on frame 2. Reports from the IOM - B: IOM cannot get blades thermal probe reading (2); IOM - A reports: reading from thermal sensor do not offer blades (2)

  any suggestions on what it could be

  Hi Mark,

  I have seen this error in a large number of issues related to I2C. If you download your logs of chassis, we could have a better idea. However, in the case of I2C there are two workaround solutions, one is less disruptive than the other but the last of them is the best method if you are hit this issue.

  A less disruptive solution is the following, you might still have problems of I2C and need the work complete around.

  1. SSH to your fabric for interconnection
     2. the switch next to a local management:
     local-mgmt to connect a
     3. connect beside A IOM of your chassis:
     connect the IOM
     4. enter this command to see if it is active or not:
     view the thermal state of the cmc platform soft | status of grep:
     -Online if it says PASSIVE, you must restart this IOM (IOM 1 on fabric)
     Via UCSM, if it says ACTIVE, it's the other side (IOM 2 of fabric B) which
     must be reset.
     5. to do the reset, please go equipment > chassis > chassis <#>> IO
     Modules > Module e/s 1/2 > general tab > reset the IO Module

  The complete work around would be below;

  Remove 1st let stand 2 minutes replace, wait 10 seconds confirm 1st has power, move to PSU2
  Remove the PSU2 let stand 2 minutes replace, wait 10 seconds has power, move to PSU3
  Remove PSU3 leave 2 minutes replace wait 10 seconds psu3 has the power, move to PSU4
  Remove PSU4 let stand 2 minutes replace, wait 10 seconds for psu4 has power, move to Fan1

  Remove Fan1 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan1 has power, proceed to Fan2
  Remove Fan2 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan2 has power, proceed to Fan3
  Remove Fan3 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan3 has power, proceed to Fan4
  Remove Fan4 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan4 has power, proceed to Fan5
  Remove Fan5 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan5 has power, proceed to Fan6
  Remove Fan6 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan6 has power, move to Fan7
  Remove Fan7 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan7 has power, proceed to Fan8
  Delete Fan8 let rest 30 seconds replace, wait 10 seconds confirm Fan8 has power, proceed to IO MOD1

  Remove IO Mod 1, leave 5 minutes replace confirm that IO MOD is running before you reinstall IOMOD 2
  Once IO MOD1 is up and running finally reinstall IO MOD 2 let sit for 5 minutes, and place it in the chassis.

  This is the complete relocation process to clear the i2c bus.

  Once more, it's workaround for I2C, we can check it out if you attach your chassis connects but I know because of security problems that it is not possible. If this is the case, the best solution would be to prosecute with TAC and they can check this problem.

  Please let me know if there is anything else I could help you. If you don't mind not to upload the logs I can take a look at the issue.

  Kind regards

  Qiese Sa'di

• Problems with Dolby Advanced Audio with E530

  Today, Lenovo and updated software drivers made some updates. And after that Dolby Advanced Audio not working anymore, and because of that, I think, I can't launch any music that is in the computer and video which are in my computer play with no sound.

  The error:
  «Dolby audio driver is 7.2.8000.13 and the software application expects that the version of the driver 7.2.7000.11.» Please install a pilot application and software combination valid. »

  So the problem is that I can't find version 7.2.7000.11 to download drivers or software that allows to launch with 7.2.8000.13 version. And BTW, backup is not yet done for my laptop.

  Waiting for your help.

  Take a look on: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-Edge/E430-Dolby-Advanced-Audio-Issue/td-p/826333

  Although he was initially described as an E430 problem, several members report the same problem with their E530s, similar to you. It was noted in the thread with uninstall Conexant Audio Control Panel and reboot fixed the problem of the Dolby Audio.

  I personally don't have an E-series to test this point, but it can help out you.

  Kind regards.