Similar Questions

• Satellite A60: Question on calibration of the battery

  Hey all,.

  I was wondering if there was anyway I could recalibrate my battery for my laptop and if so... How? I have a Satellite A60-772.

  What do you mean with recalibrate your battery?

• Question about calibration of color background Div CSS

  Greetings...

  I am currently using CSS 4 & it's been quite some time that I used & trying to get back in the swing of things. If you look at the following page: http://www.holywings.com/ on the main content Div I have a background image that, once read via "LiveView" in D/W, it shows a border of 20 or so empty white pixel between this area and the title area. That is what I want. However, when you view with for example, the background image stretches all the way to the title... area which is what I don't want.

  Could someone give me some advice on how to fix this problem. But in addition, I would like to add a RADIUS at the corners of the origins, all areas. Is this possible?

  Thank you!

  Hello

  I'm sorry I didn't write very clear: simply include/complete your source code with the marked red
  put it between the terms already existing:

  (= line 102)
  
  (= line 103 News)
  

  (= line 104 new)

  The numbers are written in my DW, could be yours are not the same, but it's the right place. We are in this area:

  
   

  
     

  

  
   

  
  
  
   

  
     

  For opportunities to provide professional White Dove Releases

  
     

  * Birthdays
  
  * Weddings
  
  * Funeral
  
  * Parts
  
     

  Hans G.

• SD-R5372 will not burn DVD - bad format of DVD appears

  Hi, recently I had problems with my Toshiba CD / DVD-burning device SD-R5372: I can still burn CDs but DVD burning is no longer possible, without worrying if I want to burn data, mp3, movies...

  The "wrong DVD format" message keeps popping up, even if I use the same blank DVDs than ever. I tried a few other blank DVDs, but it still does not work.

  What could be the problem? I may need a driver updated? Unfortunately, I can't find it on the Toshiba site or on the internet.

  Thanks for the help!

  Hello

  According to the description of your problem, it seems that the question of calibrating lenses.
  In my view, the drive cannot calibrate the lens in the right position and that's why the drive can't handle the DVD!
  Sorry to say, but this is a case value and especially the replacement of the part could help :(

  May I ask what burning software do you use?
  I noticed a few problems with the Sonic Software. I used Sonic and Nero together and this mixture has been a bad influence on reading and writing.

  Then try to remove the Sonic program and use a single burning software!

  Have a nice day ;)

• Color of ID corresponding to the evidence

  I know that this issue encompasses a host of issues, but a bit of direction in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.  I have an Illustrator file containing a picture of a marble material has been used as background for a printed book cover initially set out in Quark. I'm to re-create this cover to ID card and try to match the colors as much as possible, hopefully avoid more evidence of a printer. Currently, the marble file appears radically more pink than sand yellow appropriate, aimed at the printed cover.

  The circumstances that I work on are less ideal, obviously, in the use of a non-calibrated monitor (it is a simple Asus laptop, while only stranded here at the hospital in Taiwan). Buying a monitor high range or other calibration material (unless it is an inexpensive tool or app at this address) are not really an option at this time, so what basic steps could I look into at least hopefully get the color somewhere "in the stadium" before sending it to the printers? I think that what I'm looking for is a CMYK file, although confirm everything that ID, HE and Qk, has not been done.

  Owen, Luca.

  Your question about calibration seems to have disappeared...

  I use a colorimeter to screen iOne. It works very well on my desk, but laptops tend to have a lot less control available for the screen, so I don't think it's quite as good a job there, at least not on mine.

• Wide Gamut RGB / sRGB

  What is the difference between these two? also, what are the merits using either?.

  I shot a lot of samples of solid color in RAW, cropped and resized in DPP, then transferred to PS8 for color and spotting. I don't know how, but about half the images of the latter are color when uploaded to my web gallery. the sRGB shots are okay, but all range plans lack of true colors and are dull. where range came from I do not know must have clicked the wrong box or something.

  Can I now convert the JPEG in the wide range in sRGB photos or I will have to start from raw files.

  More than 150 odd photos are involved with names and numbers of attatched to catch points and I would rather not do it again, so any help appreciated muchfully.

  I'm very new to all this and from dpp in PS and struggling to understand both made in my head.

  
  

  I begin to understand why the workflow is planned...

  I am trying to understand what are the photos you take for, always and the nature of your 'business', if that's what it is:

  Do you tiles for people, or are you just sell them the material to their own tiles, more a craft site?

  Do you take photos of as many of the "unlimited" colors you can for people to see what they look like on the slab?

  Do you take photographs of the current customer arrested as examples of potential customers?

  Do you take photographs of the current customer orders so that the customer can see their order and check that it's just before the production he for them?

  Is paper you make reference to a print of your photo, and is supposed to match what the customer sees on the website and it is part of a printed catalog or is it one per order for the customer to check from?

  I ask myself these questions as a way to understand how accurate the website Viewer expects that the color of the tile when it is installed, and if the audience of each photograph is all potential customers or just a particular customer.

  Finally, this floor or wall tile or decorative tile more colorful or artistic means more than as an accent or holder or something, not covering a large area?  It is to predict what sort of people lighting would generally consider their tiles in and judge whether your photos with incandescent lighting is typical of what would be a customer or not.

  --

  There are two separate issues with colors dull looking which are independent of each other: the first question is to have WideGamut jpg displayed in a browser that is assuming sRGB, where all the colors are dull.  It is very obvious that you posted on.  The other problem is that the reddish colors will look dull when photographed with reddish lighting which incandescent is compared in the light of the day.  This second question would be more subtle and would affect all the pictures tile, even if they use the correct sRGB profile.

  --

  You ask if using a color-checker or daylight bulbs would help: to help answer this, yourself, take a picture of some tiles colored in your configuration incandescent against your white background, then take the bottom and the tiles on the outside and take another picture of them in the Sun or in a sky covered entirely away from the colorful objects or buildings, and then compare the two side-by-side to see if you notice any changes of color across the tiles.

  To make the comparison more accurate, you should the white balance for the white background instead of use a WB setting appointed as the tungsten or daylight.  In DPP, you can set the WB by going the RAW tab in the editor and click on the eyedropper button and then clicking on the white background.  Doing for RAW photo incandescent and the sunny/cloudy RAW photo, then save as a JPG.  You may need to adjust the brightness or exposure) of other outside so he has the same brightness and contrast that inside, then save each as a JPG and compare the colors between each of them, before making adjustments in PSE.  If you do not see much difference between shooting incandescent and turned sunlight then a color-checker bulbs or light of day no doubt makes that much difference.  I would expect you will see differences in high heat how colors are relative to each other, when you go back between the two shots or you compare side-by-side, depending on what picture viewer program and monitor installation, but maybe don't you think that they are not significant enough to worry about.

  --

  A few comments on your methods to adjust the color you have described their:

  You say that you hold until you photographed next to your monitor and then adjust things to post-secondary studies until the colors are good:

  First of all, what is your lighting next to your computer that you can see the subject, it's the same as he was photographed, or something different, such as the window-curtain-daylight or fluorescent lamps?

  Secondly, your monitor calibrated somehow uses a spectrophotometer of material, or at least attempted to set the monitor's color temperature so white things on the screen look like white things in the immediate vicinity of the monitor as illuminated by some lights that you are viewing the subject while trying to match the colors?

  If the answer is no to the question monitor calibrated then you are really glad to create the colors look right to your own computer screen, which may or may not be the same that the other computer of the people watching who discovered the site.  Using a calibrated monitor, at least you know that any inaccuracies in the colors on a different monitor is due to the lack of this monitor calibration, not the sum of both your and the lack of the other calibration Viewer screen.

  When the color adjustment to post-secondary studies if you see the subject in a different light that you took the photo in then it will probably be difficult to get the colors to look right.

  Personally, I would use light daylight balanced for the photos, which would itself, with daylight, daylight bulbs (warm light) or diffuse / bounced flash, perhaps through a light tent.  The white balance, I got pipette to a neutral zone of photography.  I would use a monitor calibrated, and appeal to a standard profile in my RAW converter or create my own with the ColorChecker passport.  Finally, if I manually tweaking the colors by comparing the monitor for the subject is close, I'd use lighting daylight balanced during the display of the object.

  Without having a better understanding of how correct the color should be for each of your photos, my approach is perhaps too much work, and what you may be ok.  You could ask the opinion of other people who have access to the original object (the colorful mosaic that was photographed) by comparing it to the photo of this tile on the website on his own monitor in a different lighting situation: incandescent, daylight, fluorescent, so let's see how well the colors stand for them or not at all.

• W510 - error HARD drive, gambling problems, calibration of the questions

  Hi all users of Thinkpad and Lenovo. I'm new here and to the community of Lenovo.

  I just renovated W510 a few weeks and love it. Laptop necessary for photography.

  Type series R96RGY4 43195RU

  i5 520 M

  6 GB of RAM [Update 2GB]

  Quadro FX 880M 1 GB

  HD + screen 15'6

  Seagate 320 GB SATA 7200 RPM

  Windows 7 32 bit

  Update Bios to 1.38

  But having some issues, could not find an answer:

  1. as a hobby photographer trying to calibrate using Huey PRO Lenovo recommended tool. Problem is that when I run the software says "could not find the color sensor" and I don't know if I have it. I know, it should be between the fingerprint and keyboard player. What it looks like? How will I know that I have?

  If I don't have it, what is the best [possibly budget] way to go on the calibration it?

  2. question - half-life 2 game. Downoladed by Valve. Played very well from the beginning with the "recommended" video settings But lately the game FREEZE a lot, it's unplayable!

  I installed the latest driver from nVidia 6824, always point of FREEZING. I did back driver, still hurt. [if I remember well, it was well before I did of the nvidia drivers] I lowered same resolution details changed from the top in the middle. None works.

  I use GPU counter acquired with Win 7 and it will never more of 130 f. I even had laptop cooler with 2 adjustable fans, adjusted on the GPU area. If the heat is not the issue.

  3 HDD issue.

  Due to the game that I have run Thinkvantage material test and found 2 ERRORS [could there be FREEZE game question?]

  FAILURE - ERROR WHD20-SR7 targeted reading test

  FAILURE - SMART self-test short ERROR WHD16-59Y

  Here found navigation I use Lenovo Diagnostics bootable CD. I did and got:

  Repair of sector test ATA failed - ERROR ID09H-0 CT code "your drive could not be repaired and must be replaced" [nice]

  I want to emphasize that I installed Xubuntu Linux as a 2nd distribution. HDD shrunk using the Windows utility, install Grub in the MBR.

  All workes very well, except the game.

  Can I communicate with Lenovo and replace the HARD drive? About 198 days warranty.

  Sorry for the long post, did not make too many messages :-)

  Thank you for reading and I would appreciate any help. This day happy user of Lenovo.

  The W510 series is known for having badly mounted coolers, I'm not sure if this applies to Dual Core versions however.

  Even if your time is low, the video memory could be overheating because the cooler has bad contact with them.

  Have you checked the time CPU? What heppens if you run FurMark at extreme burning mode?

  Temp monitor:

  http://www.CPUID.com/softwares/HWMonitor.html

  FurMark:

  http://www.oZone3D.NET/benchmarks/fur/

  You should have this replaced hard drive that's for sure.

• Satellite L350-17Z: Question recovery disc creation - problem with calibration

  I'm eager to get win xp instead of vista current on Satellite L350-17Z because some soft is not stable and vulnerabilities, while under xp on the desktop computer, I had no problem. XP compatibility mode is not solve this problem.

  So I decided to do it in a cruel manner as a laptop is new and almost empty, not to mention the habit of hard drive xp. Still I tried to make a recovery, using TOSHIBA Recovery Disc Creator.

  Buta * during DVD burning there is a fault and message about some problems with the calibration. I tried a few discs - same result.

  Hi Snen,

  It would be interesting to know what CD/DVD drive you have. Maybe you should try to update the firmware of the drive. For some readers of Toshiba and Pioneer, the site shows an update of the firmware. It s worth a try!
  http://EU.computers.Toshiba-Europe.com > support & downloads > download drivers

  And what kind of DVD that you use to create a recovery disk? I have good experience with the types of DVD - R and I use Verbatim.

• USB-6210 voltage divider Calibration questions

  I'm trying to calibrate 14 tensions that I read from a voltage divider in 14 channels of a device USB-6210. Attached is an Excel spreadsheet of data I'm trying to understand. On the bottom of the sheet, I applied the same voltage to all channels and draw the raw tension for all channels and the differences between the expected voltage and voltage of raw. I find that these differences are not constant but linear I do not understand. I then use the basic linear function to find the factors in the top of the worksheet. Therefore, in the upper part, I read the input voltage by using a probe high voltage and voltage of Labview which has been adapted by the linear function of base in the background.  Most of the multiplying factors are ~ 1000 as expected, but the tensions for the last 4 channels are significantly different and are not linear for the last two channels. I mounted the two worst voltage channels with polynomial which is ok but not make any sense. Does make sense to anyone. I'm using Labview 9.0.1 and Windows 7. I ran Diagnostic Utility for the acquisition of data on the device and it passed all tests. I looked into the issue of ghosting, but the criteria seem not valid here because of tension in the neighbouring country of the channels is small. I also enclose the VI that supports voltages raw to show how these functions are used. According to me, the results are stable and precise, but I can't explain the above mentioned discrepancies.

  The problem was solved by changing the sampling frequency in the DAQ assistant. I think the default frequency is 1 kHz and I had given up to 750 Hz. By lowering the frequency 150 Hz, the capacitor is allowed time to discharge so that no ghost image occurs. In summary, the question always was ghosting and solve the I: question

  -Removed in the wizard DAQ, channels that have been disconnected and therefore not used.

  -Change the wiring to the DAQ assistant by sending the low voltage in channel 1 and the second lowest voltage on channel 2, etc.

  -Change the sampling frequency of 1 kHz to 150 Hz to let the capacitors discharge time.

• U2413 problem of calibration double monitor and a Question

  Hello

  Yesterday, I received my new 2 U2413 monitors.  I finally understood how to calibrate them by installing the appropriate software: Dell UltraSharp adjustment of the calibration Solution 1.5.3.

  Now my problem is that I don't get the same options of calibration for each monitor.

  #1 monitor, the Dell UltraSharp calibration Solution called "DELL U2413 (2) KTXXK418AEFL", after clicking on "View profile" from the home screen offers me options White Point like CIE Illuminant D65 (ranging from D50 to D75), then native, temperature of daylight, xy... and measure.

  #2 monitor, the Dell UltraSharp calibration Solution called "DELL U2413 (2) KTXXK418AEVL", after clicking on 'View of profiling' in the home screen offers me options that I expected from the user guide: AdobeRGB, sRGB, Rec. 601, Rec. 709, SMPTE-C xy, native and Custom...

  Why are they different?  I used natively to calibrate the monitor #2 and it automatically set.  I used to calibrate the monitor #1 CIE Illuminant D65 and it does everything automatically except luminance, that I had to do it manually via the controls of the monitor.

  Monitor #1 seems to be the solution to hot.  It is almost blinding, and the colors still seem a bit saturated.  It seems that the calibration of Monitor #2 was much more thorough (it took a lot more time and seems to do everything for me).

  Why I don't get the same options for each?

  And finally, I think that I read that if I let the i1Display Pro plugged and by the monitors, it can adjust the brightness during the day based on the light in the room.  Is this true?  If so, what should I do to activate this for two screens?

  Sorry this post is so long and thanks in advance for any help.

  Sincerely,

  Gary

  http://en.community.Dell.com/support-forums/peripherals/f/3529/t/19566605.aspx

  Chris said that an update (when?) will correct this problem. Until then plug a monitor when using a DA, after calibration to connect the two and configure your installation of double screen.

  When two of the same model monitors are connected, the selection options becomes different. X - rite will release a new software version to fix this bug. In the meantime, connect to only one monitor at a time for calibration.

  DELL-Chris M

  Update - my apologies for you mislead. X - rite has confirmed that this is not a bug fix. DUCCS (Dell UltraSharp color calibration Solution) software works as expected. In a double or more monitor configuration, you must have only a monitor connected to the computer at the same time during calibration. Calibrate this monitor. Then disconnect it and connect the second monitor. Calibrate.
  DELL-Chris M

• U2713H calibration questions

  Hello

  With the help of the Ultrasharp 'solution' with u2713h color calibration monitor & i1 Display Pro.

  What I want to do is to calibrate: 1. native color space of 2. White of 5800K to point 3. 120 cd/m2 4. 2.2 gamma & 5. 300: 1 contrast. And finally be able to validate the profile.

  None of this should be difficult, but so made by the limitations of this software solution.

  Could someone please help me with the details, I need to create this profile. I contacted Dell support but to no avail.

  Thank you

  Steven

  I think that everything can be except 5th point, because the Solution of Calibration color Dell (DSRC) don't offer any luminance control black level, so you end up with a contrast between 600:1 and 800: 1 (0.20 cd/m2, 0.15 cd/m2). Valitation of calibration must be done with the third party software.

  Native color space is more or less AdobeRGB, but with a wide range of red. So first of all, you need to measure 'your' native red. It can be done easily with GNU as ArgyllCMS/DispcalGUI software:

  0 - if you have some stored in CAL1 and CAL2 hardware calibration you need to 'factory reset' your screen.

  1 - put view profile "U2713H.icm" (that of the monitor driver installation) for your GPU doesn't store any correction LUT. Change your OSD preset 'Custom' and with 'RG_Phosphor.edr' as correction of calibration (you must tell i1DisplayPro what spectrum of light will measure, this file is located in the folder of the driver for x-rite).

  2-(optional) maybe you want to put your screen into mode custom 5800 k, 120cd. Details of primary RGB will not change but '' red measure '' will be in the coordinates XYZ, perpahps if you want "good" native red xy 'Y' coords. It can be done with the button "calibrate". Do the RGB OSD brightness and RGB gain and then simply cancel operation)

  3. - Tools-> calibrated screen ratio (or calibrated display report, I don't have access to a colorimeter right now to check it out). After a few bars, the program will report coordinated white XYZ, R, G, B in a window from the text console. Here you have it. Transformation of the xyY coords for the DA (en.wikipedia.org/.../CIE_1931_color_space):

  x = X /(X+Y+Z)

  y = Y /(X+Y+Z)

  4 - DispcalGUI close, open, choose 'Customize' and enter white, R, G, B coordinates, 120cd, gamma 2.2

  Native coords of green and blue will be very very close to AdobeRGB ones (en.wikipedia.org/.../Adobe_RGB_color_space) but you could use ArgyllsCMS log console and calculate the coords xyY measured for the Green and blue too. 5800K White daylight xyY is 0.325761,0.341574 as you know.

  If you want to validate the calibration with ArgyllCMS/DispcalGUI YOU do a V2 profile with the DA, not a V4 (it is in menu 'Préférences').

  5 - validate this profile with your favorite show: ArgyllCMS/DispcalGUI (free GNU tools-> Validate profile), i1Profiler (free four you since you own an i1DisplayPro), Basiccolor Display 5.1.2 (demo 14 days or ~$50/$60). With any of them, don't forget to point out the app to use the correction of "RG_phosphor" (i1DisplayPro is a very good colorimeter, but just a colorimeter, it must know what type of spectrum of light it will measure).

  Hope this helps you

• A question on the LR3 camera Calibration settings

  I re-imported 'old' LR3 LR2.7 Raw images. For images taken with a Canon EOS 20 d camera, the LR3 'caméra Calibration' (Raw) settings is automatically set to "ACR4.4". For Raw Images taken with a Canon EOS 5 d MKII, the LR3 "caméra Calibration" settings is automatically set to 'Adobe Standard '.

  Why the difference and this must by default be?

  Franz

  The EOS 20 d preceded the new calibration profiles. Thus, all images edited prior to their introduction will be the former ACR X.Y profiles incorporated in default XMP. If you switch to the new profiles of the appearance of the image will change.

  The new default value is Adobe Standard

• image and video calibration in first cs4 (basic question)

  Hello

  I'm new to first.  I have CS4.  I created my first video project base.  I put this

  the project up to a 'regular' basis of the project definition about 720 pixels or more. I have

  imported a few photos from the digital camera, put them on the timeline, and

  has added a title and background music.

  When I play back the project, the small window in the top right of the

  screen shows only a small part of the camera images that I imported.  Images

  were JPEG files.  they were about 1.8 MB.

  How do it so the image is shown in the video project?

  Perhaps these are file pictures 'giant size' and I don't even know it.

  I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction in terms of how I

  should be implemented to pixel values, sizes of images/videos and things like that in

  First.  I go to the adobe classroom in a book of box to get

  First CS4.

  I'll do some shooting of 1920/1080i format 16 x 9.  but for

  for now, I'm just trying to get my jpeg digital camera photos to show the

  overview in first rather than a 10% zoom to the top of only a small part

  of the image.

  Thanks for all the ideas.

  What are the dimensions in pixels of your images?

  They should be the same as the project for example 720 wide for landscape. The size of the JPEG file is not relevant.

  Either resize before importation (preferred) or size suitable first. If the images are already the right size, see the magnification of the monitor window

• A few questions about Apple Watch.

  Hello, guys... My name is Alexander and I live in India. I wanted to buy a Apple Watch and I have a few questions.

  1. I use Wi - Fi router and did not have cellular data Plans. Now my doubt is, when the iPhone is not connected to a network of data, Wi - Fi or Mobile data, if I get a call or a text Message on the iPhone, which is in the range of Apple Watch Bluetooth and is associated with watch, I get the alert on Apple Watch and I can reply to the Message and receive the call? I mean text Messages, not iMessages...

  2. can I make calls on Apple Watch when the iPhone is not connected to the internet and is in the range of Apple Watch Bluetooth? Can I send text Messages in this situation?

  3. If I am not connected to the iPhone by Apple Watch Bluetooth and not in other Wi - Fi networks, make rest the remains?

  4. If Apple Watch is not connected with the iPhone or any Wi - Fi network, can count the activity?

  5. I just, works without any activity on or active on Apple Watch of training App, do Calories burned in this drive and can the Apple Watch show other activity such as, duration of the exercise without turning on any exercise?

  And finally...

  6. is the specific Apple Watch activity tracker?

  Please help me... I need correct image... Before that I spend a huge stash...

  Hello

  1. Yes to both, if your iPhone is connected to cellular service.

  2. Yes at the same time, if your iPhone is connected to cellular service.

  3. Yes.

  4. Yes.

  5. Yes - business apps works continuously in the background. You don't need to record the activity through the application of the workout.

  6 estimates depend on the activity of your personal information, who entered when you set up the application. The watch can also be calibrated (see link below) to improve the accuracy of estimates related to the activity.

  More information:

  Use the activity on your Apple Watch - Apple Support

  Use of the workout on your Apple Watch - Apple Support

  Calibrate your Apple Watch for better accuracy of training and activity - Apple Support

• Calibration of the monitor on the Satellite L755-18Z

  Hello world

  Here's a question:
  My screen is very bright.
  In NVIDIA Control Panel, I have 2 choices:
  1. other applications control color settings
  2 use the NVIDIA settings

  If I choose nr. 2 - everything works well until the next reboot - ' other applications (I guess Windows OS) "takes over - monitor is very bright once again, and I need to go to the NVIDIA Control Panel and apply 'use NVIDIA settings' again. (However, the brand remains in option 2, and I have to mark opt. 1, then mark opt. 2 again and press the "Apply" button). Everything is a bit irritating.

  Someone knows what to do in this situation?

  Hello

  Check out this Microsoft page on the color management settings
  http://Windows.Microsoft.com/en-us/Windows7/change-color-management-settings

  Very interesting the calibration of the screen part where you can find a step by step instruction how to enable disable calibration loading Windows.

  It seems that the standard calibration of Windows crushes the nVidia settings and in my opinion, this could be resolved by disabling the Windows calibration.